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Motor frozen after transmission install?


iamlew

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Working with an 87 ranger. 4x4. 2.9l. Swapped in an a4ld from an 89 b2, to replace my stock a4ld that was busted when I bought the truck.

Also posted in the engine forum because I wasn't sure if it counted as a motor problem =p

anyways. Got the stupid a4ld in and went to bolt the torque converter. Only problem was the motor didn't turn, so the flywheel won't move. The cmashaft bolt just tightens or loosens. But, id worked fine when lining up the flywheel with the torque converter during the installation.

My ideas are - torque converter wasn't seated right ( we spun it and got it in as good as we could and it wasn't "clicking" so we thought it should be seated. We spun in a bit on the flywheel before completing the install and still no clicking.)

My other idea was something got bent. We had everything lined up but the cross member wasn't getting on, and we realized the engine was still jacked up so we dropped it and the transmission went onto the block all the way and the cross member went into place. No loud noises, or grinding, just went really smoothe we thought.

My grain of hope is the first time I moved the bolt the belts SLIGHTLY moved once, so I think something's just bound.

I was thinking of just bolting everything together and trying to turn it over with the started, but that may make things worse =p

Should I take the transmission back off =\ I thought about unbolting it most of the way and pulling it back to try that see if the pressure is relieved from the motor.

Ideas?
 
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Fordman

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I suspect the convertor wasnt seated. If it is, it will spin, and rub in the rear of the convertor. Back the bellhousing bolts off and see if it loosens. Just had one brought to me that this happened on.
 

iamlew

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Yeah I was hoping I did something easy to fix and not have to remove the tranny, but I guess I'll have to hah.
 

Bruce

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If you jammed the converter into the pump you will be lucky if you didnt break the pump gears.
 

Bent Bolt

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With trans bolted to engine but before you install the converter nuts, you should be able to "rattle" converter in the flexplate holes. If not, the converter wasn't seated in the pump, something is wedged between the engine and bellhousing, or the converter is stuck to the end of the crankshaft- due to rust or gunk or the adapter is buggered.
 

iamlew

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It wasn't seated. but, when I got it seated it grinds against the gear when spin it, is that correct? or is it busted? I have another one, and I seated it on my old transmission, spins on top of the gear and if I press on the side of it it grinds also. I left them both out until I can figure out which way is properly seated. Thanks for the help =)

First tranny swap, and those stupid hayes books are so damn vague they're impossible to use.it says press firmly and when it stops clicking it's seated, except it never clicks, unless they mean when it goes down a click. But if that's the case, it's almost impossible to tell when it stops, because half the time you have to really force it down and spin it at different angles.
 

Bent Bolt

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On a A4LD, when the converter is seated all the way, the converter will rub the pump bolts. Thats OK because when you bolt the trans to the engine, the converter moves toward the engine when the nuts are installed giving lots of room between the converter and pump bolts.
 

iamlew

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awesome, soI suppose either one will still work, I'll use the one I thought broke Since it looks like it was re-built and balanced.
 

Uly The Hermit

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With trans bolted to engine but before you install the converter nuts, you should be able to "rattle" converter in the flexplate holes. If not, the converter wasn't seated in the pump, something is wedged between the engine and bellhousing, or the converter is stuck to the end of the crankshaft- due to rust or gunk or the adapter is buggered.
Could you please explain what you mean by "rattle" the converter? I'm going to be installing a trans for the first time very soon ('99 Ranger 3.0L 4R44E). Hopefully.
 

iamlew

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I think he meant you must line up the holes, thus when they're close you shake it in. when you pull it make a line on the flexplate to line up later, itll make it much easier
 

Uly The Hermit

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Thanks. I'm removing my 4R44E on my '99 Ranger. I marked one of the torque converter bolts and the flywheel but I don't see how this is going to help because I'm putting in a different trans. Now I need to find out what a flexplate is....
 

iamlew

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flexplate=flywheel

If it doesn't line up I have a feeling your transmission wouldn't work wihtout replacing the flywheel, in which case you line the lines up. Draw a line on the TC to the bolt, then draw one on the flywheel down to the teeth and line those lines up.
 

Uly The Hermit

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I think I get it now--kinda like lining up a driveshaft?
 

Bent Bolt

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Could you please explain what you mean by "rattle" the converter? I'm going to be installing a trans for the first time very soon ('99 Ranger 3.0L 4R44E). Hopefully.
With everything installed correctly but before you install the nuts, the converter studs will be loose in the flexplate . Grab the stud with your fingers and move the stud back and forth in hole, it'll rattle.

If you can do that, the converter is guaranteed to be installed correctly. If you cannot "rattle" the converter in the flexplate, it means something is bound up and damage will result if you try to start the engine.
 

iamlew

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Oh, I better check that too, thanks. I turned my motor and it clunked, so I think it's right.

What was weird is I had to really force the cross member on. I know the other one was mounted different but everything looks Identical... Oh well, it's on now =p

Got my transfer case mounted, rear drive shaft mounted. now time to get everything else on tomorrow. Also discovered a huge crack in my exhaust manifold, guess it won't smog yet =\
 

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