Oil Pressure issue

[Danger-Ranger96]

Okay so i know ford has an issue with building "functional" oil pressure gauges, now my issue is that, i have already replaced my oil pressure sending unit once before and my pressure gauge needle went back to "normal" at mid point of the Low and High. Now seeings how this sending unit i have now is fairly new (2-3 months old) my gauge is fluttering like mad when i hit higher revs. I noticed this morning that it now flutters when its idling. I did an oil change long before i had this problem and have been checking my oil frequently. I don't know why its doing it because my basepan is full of oil and i've been driving around for a long time with the needle going nuts. Not to be defeated, i went out and bought a lucas oil oil stabalizer and threw it in the motor and its still running fine. I guess my question is, Can mud and water and different elements cause the sending units to become fubar or do i have internal issue? Like i have said i've been driving the truck for a while now and its still running fine.

My check engine light has been on for 2 years, but i am fully aware of the code it's reading, P1442 or something about the EVAP canister that i have yet to fix.

[Ranger5.0]

age, poor conections, and damaged wireing can affect it. Also, im pritty sure ts a pressure switch, not a seonsor, meaning, its either on, "gauge in mormal range" or off, gauge at low position. so if its dancing around, its somthing electrical related.

[Danger-Ranger96]

age, poor conections, and damaged wireing can affect it. Also, im pritty sure ts a pressure switch, not a seonsor, meaning, its either on, "gauge in mormal range" or off, gauge at low position. so if its dancing around, its somthing electrical related.

hmmm looks like i'll have to do some tracing. lol i hate electrical. :pissedoff:

[Aubrey]

hmmm looks like i'll have to do some tracing. lol i hate electrical. :pissedoff:

Here's an easy check: If you short the sender wire to chassis and it goes to mid-scale, your instrument cluster is set up for a pressure switch. If you short the sender wire to chassis and it pegs at max, you should be using a pressure sender.

The pressure switches are about 1-1/4" diameter for about a half inch with usually two or three terminals on top with two used. Pressure senders are about 2" diameter and 2" long with a single stud terminal on top.

To convert a pressure switch to a pressure sender, you have to remove the instrument cluster and short out the 47 ohm resistor on the main cluster circuit film.

[Ranger5.0]

or screw all that silly shit and get a mechanical gauge lol. when it comes to electrical gauges, the whole electrical system needs to be in perfict working condition, no bad conections in the chasse harness, or false/innaccurate reading will result. You can mess with a pressure switch which is a glorified idiot light, convert to electrical and use a pressure sending unit, and still hope it works, or go mechanical and never doubt it again

[Danger-Ranger96]

thanks for the info guys, alot of people have told me to just run an oil pressure gauge for the longest time. A friend of mine has been working on fords his entire life he started about 20 years ago. He currently is doing a project on his Full size bronco doing a 460 swap and taking the axles from an 89 F-350. He has told me he has had the same problems with the stock oil pressure gauge and says they are just garbage. I guess i should just buy an manual OP gauge and call it a day.

[danger88ranger]

Sounds like a good time for a custom dash!!!