clutch problems (not slave)


mi_dad04

15+ Year Member

Joined
Apr 16, 2009
Messages
17
Points
3,101
Vehicle Year
1996
Transmission
Manual
forgive me if i am asking a commone question again but i did not finds what i was looking for by searching. i have a 96 explorer 4.0 2wd 5speed. i am having problems with the clutch disengaging. i have bled the slave many times. the pedal does not feel spongy to me at all. i am not leaking fluid anywhere that i can see and the level in the reservoir is not dropping either. is it possible for the master to be failing internally and no be leaking?
 
Are you having problems getting it into gear while it is running/driving?

What about when its not running?

Does the truck roll easily with it in gear, clutch pressed in and motor not running?
 
Yep, that sounds like textbook master cylinder failure.
 
yes problems getting it into gear when running. with the clutch in engine running in gear it rolls like a automatic. not sure about it rolling in gear without engine running.
 
had the same issue last week with my 4.0 Ranger. New clutch and slave, old master. I tried EVERYTHING for bleed techniques but just couldnt get it to shift easy and not grind in reverse. I finally broke down and bought the master at advance auto for 65 bucks. After my second bleed attempt it is working great.

Not sure if the explorer is set up like the ranger, but the ranger master isnt angled for optimal bleeding. If you push a 1/4" ID tube on the slave bleeder screw and run it up into your resevior, then pump till you see no air bubbles running through the line, it seems to be the best way to bleed it (i tried many).
 
And bleed the system BEFORE you bolt it to the firewall. Connect all the hydraulics and bleed as sfwjesse mentioned, being sure to angle the master in a few different directions to ensure that any air bubbles escape into the hydraulic line to the slave, then continue to pump the piston till it's all purged. You can leave the bleeder valve open for this entire process as long as you run the tube into the reservoir and it stays immersed in fluid. When you're satisfied, close the valve and make sure you've got solid pressure, then bolt it in.
 
i am confused. fill the line with fluid after i hook it to the bleeder? then just stick the end of the line in the reservoir? is it necessary to get the special tool to disconnect the line from the slave? and is it fairly apparent how the line come off the old master?
 
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You don't need to disconnect the line from the slave if you're just working with the master. At the master it's held in by a rollpin (on my '94 trucks, not sure if that stayed the same)
 
If you get a new master it may be difficult to press out that roll pin and put the new one in the engine compartment...but im sure it could be done. I disconnected the quick disconnect from the tranny and took the whole master assembly out and assembled the new one on the bench.

If the master is angled down in the firewall like rangers are, i would just try bleeding the old one like we were saying first.....before spending the money on a new one. I only got a new one when i had exhausted all bleeding options. You may just be using the wrong bleed techniques.
 
is it necessary to remove the wheel well liner? it looks like it may help. and can the quick release on the slave be reoved without the tool or is the tool necessary?
 
Not sure on the liner - your slave design is different than mine IIRC. Why are you trying to disconnect the line at the slave? There are ways around the tool, a search should bring up some suggestions.
 
You do not need to disconnect the line at the slave to bleed the system. There is a bleed valve ON the slave (right next to where the line connects) that is identical to a brake bleeder valve. You just have to open the valve and bleed as described above.
 
i know there is a bleeder at the slave but if i can bleed the line on the bench(slave is bled already) with the new master all i will have to do is reinstall the bench bled master and line and i will be finished wont I? everything i have read says the quick disconnect does not allow air in the system when disconnected. The reason i want to remove the line is it looks much simpler to disconnect the line at the slave(lots of room there as i don't have a 4x4) then trying to disconnect the master from the line on the vehicle (not much room there).
 
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OK, I see what you're saying. Yes, as long as there is no air in the slave, that would work fine. It doesn't sound any easier to me, but it should work.
 
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