wat are some gas saving mods

[redsoxguy1918]

just got a helluva deal on this 03 3L edge its gettin around 18 mpg average, wat are some worth while gas saving mods?

http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/2136/mytruck075.th.jpg (http://img5.imageshack.us/my.php?image=mytruck075.jpg)

[Hahnsb2]

Manual transmission and proper gearing.

[99RangerKrazy]

And be light on the skinny pedal.

[Potatoflinger]

May I ask how much you paid for it?

[Beanmachine7000]

Manual transmission and proper gearing.

+1...

[MikeWild]

A monthly bus pass does wonders for fuel economy!

[metalmacguyver]

Moved to general discussions.

[Will]

I modified my mileage by buying a tiny little shitbox, which paid for itself in 9 months. I got 36mpg my last tank and 39mpg on my best. My hog-truck stays parked unless I need to hual somethin'.

[LearjetMinako]

The basic tune-up, fresh oil, clean air filter and fuel filter. Also driving habit. Be kind to the pedals, take it easy. Proper tire pressure, clean fuel (not the E10 mix), no cargo or keep the truck light.

[sbsumerix]

take that top off. but before anyone says anything im cover my tracks yes taking the top off reduces weight = better mpgs but then you have the air pushing against the tailgate either drop the gate or put a tonneu(spelling) cover on. 18 is decent for the 3.0 i got 20 once in mine 3.0 5speed 3.73 gears 235/75R15 wrangler radials and that was with easing it everywhere i went and 65-70 for 200 miles without passing any one but the occasional semi.

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

Its been proven, dropping the tailgate/ installing a tailgate net/ installing a tonneau cover will not increase mpg. Trucks are designed for the best airflow with the tailgate up, changing that adds more wind drag, reducing mpg.

[tpking]

i was getting 345 miles out of my 99 3.0 5speed 4x4 every fill up dont know what the MPG would be

[Dzrtcj7]

I hate to refer a forum to a forum, but http://www.ecomodder.com is fascinating! These guys make fuel economy a sport, with vehicle modifications and driving habits. Read a bit, you'll be hooked. Unfortunately, as intrigued as I was, not much is going to help my 8000lb diesel pickup :icon_twisted:

[85_Ranger4x4]

take that top off. but before anyone says anything im cover my tracks yes taking the top off reduces weight = better mpgs but then you have the air pushing against the tailgate either drop the gate or put a tonneu(spelling) cover on. 18 is decent for the 3.0 i got 20 once in mine 3.0 5speed 3.73 gears 235/75R15 wrangler radials and that was with easing it everywhere i went and 65-70 for 200 miles without passing any one but the occasional semi.

Toppers help milage, they improve the aerodymanics of the vehicle. Note that BII's and Explorers usually get better milage than their Ranger counterparts.

Tailgate up/down benefits depends on the bed length and cab size. I have had pop bottles blow out of the back of my Ranger with a 7' box, but I still have leaves from last fall swirling around in the back of my F-150 with a much larger cab in front of a 6.5' box. A pickup cab will create a nice swirling action that is kind of like a fastback on a car, it just swirls there and more air coming over the roof just glides off the back of the swirling air... problem is with a longbox the tailgate catches it wheras with a shorbox the tailgate takes part in the cyclonic action too.

And I have heard of people driving with the tailgates down hitting a bump wrong and unhinging them.

[JohnnyO]

18 mpg is about average for a 3.0. There isn't a lot you can do that will make a difference. I put a Gibson exhaust on my Sport Trac and picked up 3 mpg on the highway.

[crawlin91]

QUOTE Tailgate up/down benefits depends on the bed length and cab size. I have had pop bottles blow out of the back of my Ranger with a 7' box, but I still have leaves from last fall swirling around in the back of my F-150 with a much larger cab in front of a 6.5' box. A pickup cab will create a nice swirling action that is kind of like a fastback on a car, it just swirls there and more air coming over the roof just glides off the back of the swirling air... problem is with a longbox the tailgate catches it wheras with a shorbox the tailgate takes part in the cyclonic action too.QUOTE

if you could harness all that air and run it into the intake you might get better mpg's:icon_confused:

chop top, bed bob, just take the sawzall to it and cut off anything you dont need.

[OilPatch197]

Manual transmission and proper gearing.

And be light on the skinny pedal.

Maintain proper tire pressure, keep a good wheel alignment, install a front spoiler, keep brakes maintained, avoid braking by accelerating slowly and deaccelerating slowly, and keep the truck clean.

[43551RANGER]

http://peswiki.com/energy/Directory:Acetone:Data:sentzmastersmith
Try some of this stuff.

[greaseyfingers]

http://peswiki.com/energy/Directory:Acetone:Data:sentzmastersmith
Try some of this stuff.

have you had any success trying out the information from their website, in regard to using acetone in your vehicle's gasoline..

[kansas 4x4]

Myth busters scientifically PROVED that you get BETTER mpg when leaving your tailgate ( up ) but if it makes you feel better, leave it down/lol :icon_rofl:

[OilPatch197]

have you had any success trying out the information from their website, in regard to using acetone in your vehicle's gasoline..

Someone tried that either here or over at RPS. I don't remember the results.

[86freebie]

if you don't mind a rough ride, add a couple pounds of air above what door sticker says. but don't go above tires max pressure. and if at all possible, use the cruise control whenever possible. i have read and seen (mythbusters) that leaving tailgate up IS better milage.

[Beanmachine7000]

if you don't mind a rough ride, add a couple pounds of air above what door sticker says. but don't go above tires max pressure. and if at all possible, use the cruise control whenever possible. i have read and seen (mythbusters) that leaving tailgate up IS better milage.

Scratch the cruise control it doesn't help save mileage unless you live in a really flat area... It can't hold speed going down a hill so you use less gas going up a hill...

[baxtej44]

Scratch the cruise control it doesn't help save mileage unless you live in a really flat area... It can't hold speed going down a hill so you use less gas going up a hill...

very good point... might as well use gravity to your advantage :)

[RustedRanger]

If you have the $$ put in synthetic oil and also Duralube oil treatment. It does work but it makes more difference in a V-8 due to more friction area (cylinders). Also a K&N air filter. Also if it is high milage use Restore in the oil,I have seen/felt it work. I've read that driving conservatly (sp) can improve MPG 30%, It does work but means driving like grandma LOL Jack up the back of the truck,you will save gas if your always going downhill but that's not a great idea with a pickup that's light in the rear anyway and makes it prone to the rear kicking out under hard braking and also takes away traction due to weight transfer to the front.

[86freebie]

but wait. thats a great idea with the jacking up the back, then the cruise control idea would get you even better milage. and you are right if you are going up mountians, but if only doing rolling hills. the c/c will work. and if you are going 10 miles and five of those have the c/c on. that is a savings.

[Beanmachine7000]

If you have the $$ put in synthetic oil and also Duralube oil treatment. It does work but it makes more difference in a V-8 due to more friction area (cylinders). Also a K&N air filter. Also if it is high milage use Restore in the oil,I have seen/felt it work. I've read that driving conservatly (sp) can improve MPG 30%, It does work but means driving like grandma LOL Jack up the back of the truck,you will save gas if your always going downhill but that's not a great idea with a pickup that's light in the rear anyway and makes it prone to the rear kicking out under hard braking and also takes away traction due to weight transfer to the front.

Using a synthetic oil won't save you any money, you'll pay much more for the oil than the gas you will save... K&N does not do anything for gas mileage, only costs you more money... Maybe if by high mileage you mean 250,000+ Restore might do something, but if it does then you need at least a re-ring and hone anyway, and that is just a band-aid... Raising the rear of your truck would just mess up what crappy aerodynamic efficency it already has and COST you gas mileage... Again, cruise control does not increase fuel economy unless you are driving on a totally flat road...

The biggest things you can do to raise your fuel economy is... Drive as close to the torque peak of your engine as possible, don't drive at full throttle, and keep your tires at the proper pressure... You can also put a topper on, wax your car, and other measly things that might gain you 0.1-0.3 mpg, not really worth it if you ask me...

[jgertsch]

Maintain proper tire pressure, keep a good wheel alignment, install a front spoiler, keep brakes maintained, avoid braking by accelerating slowly and deaccelerating slowly, and keep the truck clean.

I removed the funky looking front spoiler off of my bumper & it actually improved my mileage a little. I'm thinking that might be part of the reason why Ford doesn't have those on the newer Rangers.

[98whitewood]

Tape an egg to the gas pedal. :icon_rofl:

[jgertsch]

I have a camper shell on the back & a lead foot. I was getting around 16 around town & 20 highway when I first got it w/150,000 miles on it (2.5L, manual, standard cab). I installed a K&N intake and a Magnaflow muffler with a custom cat-back. I also removed the front spoiler (mentioned above). I now average aroud 18+ around town & 24 highway.

I would have just bought the K&N cone & built the rest of the intake, but my wife got the intake for me for my b-day.

The factory airbox was restictive as hell.

[86freebie]

try it, it just anoys me when people are so closed minded that they wont try anything. minor hills and flat, yes it does work. i had improved my milage in my contour by about 3 mpg. "duaghter totaled that car"

it is a proven fact.

your turn bean, tell them all that unless they measure the grade with a laser level it wont work unless its 0.0 degrees. "or you are driving on a totally flat road" lol

Test #3 Use Cruise Control

Result: Surprisingly effective way to save gas

Cold Hard Facts: Up to 14-percent savings, average savings of 7 percent

Recommendation: If you've got it, use it.


Test #3 Use Cruise Control

Using cruise control is a bit of gas-saving advice frequently on tips lists. We have always agreed with this tip in theory but we hadn't expected such significant results. First, it smoothes out the driver's accelerator input by preventing nervous "surging." Second, it makes the driver take the long view of the road rather than reacting to every change in the traffic around them.

Method: We did this test twice with four different cars each time driving the 55-mile loop. The first time we set cruise control to 70 mph. The second time, with the cruise control off, we varied our speed between 65 mph and 75 mph. We tried to mimic the driving style of a person who is in moderate freeway traffic.

:icon_confused: i think i already said this part.One thing that's important to note: if you are in a mountainous area you should turn off cruise. It will try to keep you up to the speed you've set and will use a lot of extra gas downshifting to lower gears to accomplish this.

[Beanmachine7000]

The factory airbox was restictive as hell.

So, you're saying the same airbox that is restrictive on your 2.5 is restrictive on my 4.0 that pulls in twice the air your truck does? I don't think so... Adding a K&N intake does nothing but make the air that's goin into your engine hotter...

I guess I should have clarified a little more... Cruise does save gas mileage for 90% of drivers IF they are driving on RELATIVELY flat ground... If you are going through a continuosly hilly area (ie, Middle TN) it will not increase gas mileage becuase it will not carry the speed from the downhill to the uphill... I consistently get better gas mileage when NOT using the cuise control...

[OilPatch197]

Install a vacuum gauge in the cab and keep the speed at max vacuum.

Install a Gas line cooler.

Install a Fuel Line Magnent.

Purchase a Turbonator at Autozone.

Install a Cab front top spoiler that mounts at the top of the cab/windsheild.

Remove your AC evaporator and remove power steering, install a manual steering gearbox.

3" suspension DROP.

[fastpakr]

Install a vacuum gauge in the cab and keep the speed at max vacuum.

3" suspension DROP.
With you so far...

Install a Gas line cooler.

Install a Fuel Line Magnent.

Purchase a Turbonator at Autozone.

Install a Cab front top spoiler that mounts at the top of the cab/windsheild.

Remove your AC evaporator and remove power steering, install a manual steering gearbox.
:icon_rofl::icon_confused::icon_surprised:

[OilPatch197]

fastpakr I forgot one, loose weight!

If Americans are Overweight, (and many are WAY overweight, we know who they are!) we all can make a difference by shedding lots of pounds and carpooling.


Here is another:

Don't use the drive thru at fast food joints, park and walk inside.


and finally: Sell your Ranger for a GEO metro.:icon_rofl:

[jgertsch]

So, you're saying the same airbox that is restrictive on your 2.5 is restrictive on my 4.0 that pulls in twice the air your truck does? I don't think so... Adding a K&N intake does nothing but make the air that's goin into your engine hotter...


Yes, that's exactly what I'm saying.

The inlet to the air box was at most 1.5" in diameter with a stupid flange in front of it that blocked the opening a little. That combined with a square box with sharp bends & baffles means restrictive/turbulent air flow. The air box from the factor was designed to reduce noise more than anything (other than filtering air).

It's pulling air from directly behind the head light, the same as the factor box. There's a piece of steel between the filter & the engine compartment that keeps it from sucking hot air straight from the engine compartment. Not only that, but more air flow & higher air velocity means lower over all air temperatures at the throttle body. The engine runs quite a bit cooler than before it was installed.

[jgertsch]

Another thing that might increase fuel economy: Replace the mechanical cooling fan with an electrical one. It reduces the load on the engine and regulates the air temps better, among other advanges.

Also, turn off all unnecessary accessories.

[Beanmachine7000]

Yes, that's exactly what I'm saying.

The inlet to the air box was at most 1.5" in diameter with a stupid flange in front of it that blocked the opening a little. That combined with a square box with sharp bends & baffles means restrictive/turbulent air flow. The air box from the factor was designed to reduce noise more than anything (other than filtering air).

It's pulling air from directly behind the head light, the same as the factor box. There's a piece of steel between the filter & the engine compartment that keeps it from sucking hot air straight from the engine compartment. Not only that, but more air flow & higher air velocity means lower over all air temperatures at the throttle body. The engine runs quite a bit cooler than before it was installed.

Haha... Ok... Whatever you say :icon_rofl:

Another thing that might increase fuel economy: Replace the mechanical cooling fan with an electrical one. It reduces the load on the engine and regulates the air temps better, among other advanges.

Also, turn off all unnecessary accessories.


Actually an E-fan uses more energy than a mechanical fan... It increases load because it uses more electricity, therefore making your alternator work more, and you lose energy transforming the mechanical energy to electricity and back to mechanical energy... A mechanical fan is much more energy efficient... There was an article I read somewhere that at highway speeds your A/C uses less gas than opening your windows...

[jgertsch]

Actually an E-fan uses more energy than a mechanical fan... It increases load because it uses more electricity, therefore making your alternator work more, and you lose energy transforming the mechanical energy to electricity and back to mechanical energy... A mechanical fan is much more energy efficient...

Maybe. I haven't personally done this, so I can't say either way from experience. I've just read that it can help.

[Beanmachine7000]

The only way an E-fan would use less vehicle power is if it ran off it's own battery that was charged every day at your house...

[Roger]

Raise your tire pressure a bit. Not enough to wear the tire down the middle. But a couple pounds does help a bit. The single biggest thing that you can do, is adjust the nut behind the wheel. I've been able to get 22MPG (combined) out of my 95 Grand Cherokee with 31s and 3" lift. But I am usually about 19-20 combined. A lot less if wheeling.) You don't have to be first everywhere you go. Plan your trip according to where you need to stop. Get off the gas sooner when coming to a stop. Not flooring it to get moving (though there is some debate over flooring it to get to speed and then backing off, or getting to speed slowly with little throttle...). I'm over at Ecomodder, they are a lot more toleratn (most of the time) for trucks and SUVs than CleanMPG. I got banned at CleanMPG for a while in only three posts. Make adjustments in your driving habits and you will see a change.

[OilPatch197]

Actually an E-fan uses more energy than a mechanical fan... It increases load because it uses more electricity, therefore making your alternator work more, and you lose energy transforming the mechanical energy to electricity and back to mechanical energy... A mechanical fan is much more energy efficient... There was an article I read somewhere that at highway speeds your A/C uses less gas than opening your windows...

BUT the Efan ONLY is ON when it needs to be(usually in stop and go traffic) when you REALLY need a fan, at highway speeds, the mechanical fan will still DRAG causing an inefficiency(either pushing too much air at the fan, or not enough) Thus causing fan drag.

Electric fans also have other benefits, longer water pump life for example.

[graff104]

I have heard that underdrive pulleys can help some.

[triumphrider-1]

Actually an E-fan uses more energy than a mechanical fan... It increases load because it uses more electricity, therefore making your alternator work more, and you lose energy transforming the mechanical energy to electricity and back to mechanical energy... A mechanical fan is much more energy efficient... There was an article I read somewhere that at highway speeds your A/C uses less gas than opening your windows...

When on yes that is true. However, my fan has yet to turn on at speeds above 30mph. If it is not on, its not drawing power.

That said one should also note that a properly working mechanical fan adjusts its tension based on engine heat, more heat more of a fixed "type" fan.

[jgertsch]

When on yes that is true. However, my fan has yet to turn on at speeds above 30mph. If it is not on, its not drawing power.

That said one should also note that a properly working mechanical fan adjusts its tension based on engine heat, more heat more of a fixed "type" fan.

Also, after market cooling fans tend to have more efficient props & generally have less mass than mechanical OEM ones.

[sbsumerix]

Haha... Ok... Whatever you say :icon_rofl:




Actually an E-fan uses more energy than a mechanical fan... It increases load because it uses more electricity, therefore making your alternator work more, and you lose energy transforming the mechanical energy to electricity and back to mechanical energy... A mechanical fan is much more energy efficient... There was an article I read somewhere that at highway speeds your A/C uses less gas than opening your windows...

an e-fan will not use more energy and make your alternator over work. the alternator isnt affected by how much electricity you are using it gives a canstant amount of voltage compared to what rpm you are at. so e-fan will take what it can get when it needs it an you will gain voltage back at a normal rate. also the ac does help as when you open your windows down the highway you get that drag of 70+ mph wind going in your windows and pushing on the inside of the rear window

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

an e-fan will not use more energy and make your alternator over work. the alternator isnt affected by how much electricity you are using it gives a canstant amount of voltage compared to what rpm you are at. so e-fan will take what it can get when it needs it an you will gain voltage back at a normal rate.

The more load you put on the electrical system the more amperage your alternator will put out. Doesn't matter what rpm it is at.

[Beanmachine7000]

The more load you put on the electrical system the more amperage your alternator will put out. Doesn't matter what rpm it is at.

+1 :icon_thumby:... You can't get something for nothing!!!

[jgertsch]

+1 :icon_thumby:... You can't get something for nothing!!!

The more current is being drawn from the alternator, the more back EMF you get, so it's harder to turn. This puts extra load on the engine.

[redsoxguy1918]

May I ask how much you paid for it?

this toyota dealer was gonna give him 4200 on a trade i told him id give him 4700, got a hell of a deal

[redsoxguy1918]

thanks guys


i've just decided to tune it up a bit
i got a new air filter, ive changed the oil, i wanna change the fuel filter but i dont know how to get it off?

[fastpakr]

Depends on the type of connection. For some of them you need a fuel line disconnect tool. They're cheap at the parts stores.

[LearjetMinako]

I just recently did a mid-way tune-up. One of those parts was the fuel filter. For my 96 Ranger, it required a quick-disconnect tool. But a simple operation.

As for best MPG. Your foot will decided the best. If at highway speeds, sometimes slowing down just 5mph can add 2mpg. I've tested this on a 100-mile drive. First time round-trip at 65mph, I got 26mpg. Second time round-trip on the same route a year later at 70mph, I got 24mpg. And when nobody was around at night, I drove at 55mph and I got 28mpg. This is mostly flat land with some hills. I was using the cruise control and A/C (EATC mod). Route is from OKC to Blackwell (Oklahoma) along I-35. For my daily drives, its 90% city with speeds below 45mph, I usually get 21~23mpg.

[Carlos Murphy]

Ditto on what Saquatch_ryda said.
The MythBusters did a thing on this myth and proved it wrong, tailgate UP for better mileage.

Replace ALL oils with synthetic, huge reduction in parasitic drag through the entire drive line.

Don't fill your fuel tank, it's costing you money to haul all that fuel around at about 7lbs per gallon.

Correct tire pressures.
Correct tire size.
A/C off.
Remove all that junk from your rig, you know, all that crap we all have rolling around behind the seat, in the bed and in the trunk.

I removed the jump-seats from my 88 King cab and saved almost 50 lbs.

P.S.
NONE of those gas saving, mileage increasing gadgets like the "Tornado" or magnets work, Consumer Reports tested all of them and said two of the gadgets COST mileage when installed.

[Beanmachine7000]

Ditto on what Saquatch_ryda said.
The MythBusters did a thing on this myth and proved it wrong, tailgate UP for better mileage.

Replace ALL oils with synthetic, huge reduction in parasitic drag through the entire drive line.

Don't fill your fuel tank, it's costing you money to haul all that fuel around at about 7lbs per gallon.

Correct tire pressures.
Correct tire size.
A/C off.
Remove all that junk from your rig, you know, all that crap we all have rolling around behind the seat, in the bed and in the trunk.

I removed the jump-seats from my 88 King cab and saved almost 50 lbs.


I agree with everything except the synthetic oil part... You won't gain any significant improvements versus the cost of switching to all synthetic fluids... A/C off if you are driving below 55 mph... On the highway it is more economical to use A/C instead of creating drag by rolling down your windows... Not carrying around all that fuel would help with gas mileage, but then it's kinda hard to drive with no gas :D

[85_Ranger4x4]

Ditto on what Saquatch_ryda said.
The MythBusters did a thing on this myth and proved it wrong, tailgate UP for better mileage.

It was also a shortbox Supercrew F-150 in both the water/rice tests and on the track.

[fastpakr]

Agreed. I run a/c almost all the time and fill up the tank every time I stop at the gas station, and don't bother with the synthetic fluids except oil when running extended drain intervals (7000 miles or greater). 18mpg average with the 4.0 Explorer, more like 23-24mpg with the Ranger.

[Beanmachine7000]

...extended drain intervals (7000 miles or greater)...

This is really the only reason to run synthetic oil in a non-race only vehicle...

[fastpakr]

There are some minor ones, but I generally agree.

[TSpring3]

also the ac does help as when you open your windows down the highway you get that drag of 70+ mph wind going in your windows and pushing on the inside of the rear window

Mythbusters ran a segment on this in the same episode as the tailgate up vs tailgate down question.

They found that running identical trucks (F-150's or Expeditions I believe), with all the windows down actually got better fuel mileage than A/C with all the windows closed because the A/C unit adds extra strain to the engine while the condenser is engaged.

[OilPatch197]

Mythbusters ran a segment on this in the same episode as the tailgate up vs tailgate down question.

They found that running identical trucks (F-150's or Expeditions I believe), with all the windows down actually got better fuel mileage than A/C with all the windows closed because the A/C unit adds extra strain to the engine while the condenser is engaged.

But do you remember how "fast" were they simulating? I believe that for fairly low speeds, as there is not much wind drag, but what about faster speeds where the wind drag increases much?

[TSpring3]

But do you remember how "fast" were they simulating? I believe that for fairly low speeds, as there is not much wind drag, but what about faster speeds where the wind drag increases much?

They were on a NASCAR race track and had the cruise set at 55mph.

[LearjetMinako]

Yep, and 50mph is about the correct speed when drag starts to dramicaly increase. So below 50mph, windows down. Above 50mph, A/C on.

To me, screw the windows. Its 90*F outside and I've been working in it all day. I want my A/C. I can afford the .2~.5mpg loss. I'm sure the synthetics I run equal out the loss, but not the cost.

[LittleBigFoot]

With crappy gas, a fresh tune up, 4.30s in the diffs, and 35x15.5 TSLs, I pulled 19.45 MPG on the road.

3.0L flex, bed full of crap, i don't get it.

[Toms984x4]

With crappy gas, a fresh tune up, 4.30s in the diffs, and 35x15.5 TSLs, I pulled 19.45 MPG on the road.

3.0L flex, bed full of crap, i don't get it.

:shok::shok::shok::shok:What did you do to your truck besides the SAS? And how did you do it? If you're getting close to 20 mpg I need to SAS my truck. I get 15 on a GOOD day on 31s with the stock 3.73's. Same engine too....minus the bed full of crap.

[4x4fun]

i have efan, underdrive pulleys, exhaust, and soft cover, i did 250 miles on half a tank. in a 3.0l auto with 31's at about 55-60mph

[triumphrider-1]

It was also a shortbox Supercrew F-150 in both the water/rice tests and on the track.

Indeed. The bed length to cab height/length ratio (in additional to the air channels on the top of the cab) play a big factor in how helpful the vortex behind the cab will be. a regular cab long bed will have different results than the supercab short bed they used.

It should also be noted that it is illegal in some states to drive around with your tailgate down and an empty bed.

With crappy gas, a fresh tune up, 4.30s in the diffs, and 35x15.5 TSLs, I pulled 19.45 MPG on the road.

3.0L flex, bed full of crap, i don't get it.

Not bad. :icon_thumby:

Edit:
Thought this was a cool video, though I wish it showed more wind tunnel flows.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g_3xnVzf0EE

[jgertsch]

But do you remember how "fast" were they simulating? I believe that for fairly low speeds, as there is not much wind drag, but what about faster speeds where the wind drag increases much?

I might be just making up s__t, but I swear they don't take into account the weight of gas (6.5 lb/gal?). It seems their fuel economy is much higher at the end of the day when they've been driving around for hours on the same tank.

[LittleBigFoot]

It's the gearing plus driving it knowing I did the welding hahaha.

Depending on how I drive, i can get between 10 and 20 mpg. If I drive it like a big ass truck with an overly soft suspension, 20, if I'm passing people in a snow storm, 10.

[06RangerXLT]

ok heres what you can do. put your tires at at least 34psi. do an efan swap if you can, get a soft tonneau (its like a golfball with those little dents, well soft tonneau acts the same way and reduces drag by alot). drive like your 110 years old, dont bother with high octane as its just a waste of money since ranger comp ratio is around 9 to 1. high octane is only required if your in the 11' and 12 to 1 range. keep your truck clean! any crap you dont need dont haul. also on hills let off the gas as you hit the top. take your foot off the pedal and throw it in neutral if you want when going down hills. draft if you can, brake early, coast to red lights instead of hitting the brakes at the last second and dont slam the gas taking off.

theres no reason to rush anywhere. if you do need to rush, you should have left earlier. :icon_thumby:

If you have questions let me know. im all about mpg while still enjoying my truck and ive spent days figuring out what i know.:3gears:

\/ thats what i drive and i get 21 mpg in the city. 24 to 27 highway. :)

[TheTopher]

ok heres what you can do. put your tires at at least 34psi. do an efan swap if you can, get a soft tonneau (its like a golfball with those little dents, well soft tonneau acts the same way and reduces drag by alot). drive like your 110 years old, dont bother with high octane as its just a waste of money since ranger comp ratio is around 9 to 1. high octane is only required if your in the 11' and 12 to 1 range. keep your truck clean! any crap you dont need dont haul. also on hills let off the gas as you hit the top. take your foot off the pedal and throw it in neutral if you want when going down hills. draft if you can, brake early, coast to red lights instead of hitting the brakes at the last second and dont slam the gas taking off.

theres no reason to rush anywhere. if you do need to rush, you should have left earlier. :icon_thumby:

If you have questions let me know. im all about mpg while still enjoying my truck and ive spent days figuring out what i know.:3gears:

\/ thats what i drive and i get 21 mpg in the city. 24 to 27 highway. :)

If you really want to get technical you should be leaving it in gear and letting off the gas at the top of the hill. The truck's fuel cutoff system will kick on and turn off the fuel injectors if you're above a certian RPM (Usually 1200-1300 in most vehicles) and your TPS is reading below a certain setting, something like 13 on my truck. Most OBDII and newer vehicles have this feature. My 95 has it.


Without fuel engine is still running, but the energy is flowing backwards and your wheels are turning the engine, This would also be the best time to turn on your air conditioning since it costs you no gas to use it. Once the fuel cutoff mode turns off when you get slow enough, if it's an auto you can pop it into neutral while at the red light and save a little gas then go back into drive when you're ready... Unless your daily driver is a POS Chevy company truck like mine that takes a full 3-6 seconds to go into gear after you pull the shifter.



I'm pretty sure one way NOT to save gas is reviving a year-and-a-half old thread though :icon_thumby:

[adsm08]

Lose weight.

[strvger]

i went from 3.45 gears to 4.56. took off the 195/75x15, 26.5 tires and replaced them with 215/85x16, 31" tires. the tires are E rated and i have them aired at 35 psi. went from 16-17 mpg stock to 21 mpg. that's on the freeway cruising at 65 mph. and now i'm carrying even more weight thanks to my 27 gallon aux. fuel tank in the bed. i can go an honest 800+ miles before refueling when i'm traveling. i can use 5th gear with my cruise control and it goes up and down the hills much easier.

[02RangerXLT]

Buy a ricer.

[06RangerXLT]

If you really want to get technical you should be leaving it in gear and letting off the gas at the top of the hill. The truck's fuel cutoff system will kick on and turn off the fuel injectors if you're above a certian RPM (Usually 1200-1300 in most vehicles) and your TPS is reading below a certain setting, something like 13 on my truck. Most OBDII and newer vehicles have this feature. My 95 has it.


Without fuel engine is still running, but the energy is flowing backwards and your wheels are turning the engine, This would also be the best time to turn on your air conditioning since it costs you no gas to use it. Once the fuel cutoff mode turns off when you get slow enough, if it's an auto you can pop it into neutral while at the red light and save a little gas then go back into drive when you're ready... Unless your daily driver is a POS Chevy company truck like mine that takes a full 3-6 seconds to go into gear after you pull the shifter.



I'm pretty sure one way NOT to save gas is reviving a year-and-a-half old thread though :icon_thumby:

No doubt reviving old posts is the best!

i like your ideas. but i doubt id do alot of them. i know all these things listed help alot, but im usually to busy driving to worry about alot of this stuff.

the best way to save gas still is plan your routes, take your time and lighten your truck any way you can. now removing things like spare tires wont do much other then leave you stuck on the road with a flat, but if you have bags of sand laying around in the back id suggest taking them out. with these trucks i think this topic should be a sticky. because these rangers dont get nearly the mpg or horsepower they should. hell ive seen a v6 in a kia get over 30 highway with 260 somethin horses. so ford's done something wrong here cus my 4.0 doesn't do near that. :dunno: