1350 swap

[fordwheelinman]

I want to swap out my crap electric case for a manual. Other than needing to switch the front driveshaft, is there any other complications with putting a manual shift 1350 in place of my non working electric 1354? I have 2 1350s siting here doing nothing, im tired of messing with my electric crap, and quite frankly, i like the idea of having a positive engagement. ALSO, the bolts holding the u-joint to the yoke on the 35 are extremely too tight, to the point that i broke a torx bit off in the head. Any suggestions on how i can get those out? I need help on this one as i am lost.

FWM.

[Jspafford]

No, the cases are a direct swap.

As for the Torx bolt. If I recall they also have somewhat of a head on there, to which you could use an open end wrench or socket on.

I broke a torx off once, but I got another one and was able to get it out.

Good luck!

[fordwheelinman]

I tried the wrench and no luck. My next thought is to die grinder the heads off to get the shaft out, then worry about the studs with more room and ability for other tools.

and BEFORE anyone asks, im swapping in a 1350 because a) i have it, b) this thing is staying mostly stock, and c) its never gonna see abuse off road and never have more than 31 inch all terrains on it

[Hahnsb2]

For the driveshaft bolts, try heating the the yoke with a propane torch, worked for us everytime.

[fordwheelinman]

Thought about heat, but i didnt know what kind of damage that might do to the pinion seal or bearing. I realize a propane torch (the small ones like used for copper plumbing i assume you mean) would produce that much heat, but i like to be careful from time to time.

[Jspafford]

There is nothing wrong with the 1350 case. It's about the same as the 1354, except the 1354 in the later years used 6 planeteries instead of 4.

[Hahnsb2]

Just watch what you're doing, we've done it 3-4 times with no problems.