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- Thread starter tylers4.0
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i beleive u keep the beams just modify the coils and replace them with bags? not sure though.
I think that would give you some pretty bad camber issues though... Not sure if you could align it after that (depending on how much you drop it)... It would look like this /---\
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usually you'd get a set of drop beams and then fab upper bag brackets on the frame where the original spring seat was. THats the easiest way to bag the front of an ibeam truck.....or you could get ambitious and get a clip from a control arm truck and graft it onto your Ranger....or make your own control arm setup. Either way bagging an i beam truck is tough.
You could always call it quits and go buy an S10...you'll have that thing bagged in 5 hours. But thats no fun
You could always call it quits and go buy an S10...you'll have that thing bagged in 5 hours. But thats no fun
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Here are front bag brackets from Gravity Werx. Uppers welded to the frame and lowers welded to DJM Dream beams
I've seen alot of people use Yota front clips for suspension too, then bagging from there. The Toyota front suspension is pretty cake
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yep, all i did was lower my '89 3" & it threw the wheels out 1 1/4" at the top of the tires! had to buy new camber bushings, but they're not good for bagging on "eye"-beams.....once you raise or lower the bags from the position it was aligned at, the camber goes all goofy again because of the arc of the I-beam/spindle (until you put the bag height back where it was at the time of the alignment...huh?)
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The negative camber on a layed out truck looks cool.
As long as the alignment is set at ride height, you'll be fine. The camber will correct itself when the truck is aired up to drive at ride height. (on bagged trucks)
As long as the alignment is set at ride height, you'll be fine. The camber will correct itself when the truck is aired up to drive at ride height. (on bagged trucks)
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