Stay with full-time hub or convert to manual hubs?

TireIron · Oct 21, 2007

On the D44 I'm building the knuckles I'm using are originally a full-time drive hub setup which is nice because it is very strong as the axle shaft is splined right to the hub itself, however I have since found that there is a conversion kit to use a milemarker manual hub setup. Price is not really an issues as I would hav eto buy the parts for either and it comes out to about the same for everything I need at this point. What is everyones opinion on whether I should stay with the full-time hubs or do the conversion to manual lock hubs? Keep in mind this is a daily driver, will end up with a locker in it at some point, and is only being pushed by a tired old 2.3L. I'm leaning more towards the manual conversion, the only thing I worry about is having the extra hub parts to break, although with the hubs if something in the front end breaks I can unlock the wheels... So what does everyone think?

vrruumm · Oct 22, 2007

For drivabilty, if you were going to leave the front open, I would say it doesn't really matter either way, manual or full time. As for gas milage, I have not experienced any difference myself, axles locked in or not, as long as its in 2wd. But if your going to lock up the front, the lock right, detroit, ausie locker etc... are going to ratchet and pop and clunk when you turn sharply even if you are in 2wd. I really dont mind the clunks/pops, but I have installed many of these types of lockers for customers with full time hubs, and about 50% complain about them. The clutch type limited slips will still cause some push when turn, but wont cause any noise. The true-trac may be pretty good if your going to leave the axles locked in all the time.
If youre planning a spool, or welding the front, the full time hubs can be ruled out all together.

You wont have 2 low if you don't put the manual hubs in.

If I had a choice I'd put the disconnectable hubs in.

4x4junkie · Oct 22, 2007

What year D44?

If this is '75-'79 Dodge D44 stuff, I wouldn't do it (IIRC, the MM hubs are the same as their RBV hubs, which are quite weak. Although it could be possible the Warn "Jeep" hubs might fit on it afterward though, not sure).

TireIron · Oct 22, 2007

yes it is the dodge knucles, and I was looking at the hubs and axleshaft and it looks like it is a 19 spline axleshaft so I don't think it is the same as the RBV hubs... If it were the same 27 spline shaft as the RBV then I wouldn't worry about it and just run the warn jeep hubs. It uses a 297 joint so if i could find an RBV outter stub I could compare them when I get the kit and see if they are the same length and width with the correct placement for the snap ring and just swap the outter stubs and run the RBV setup.

Jim Oaks · Nov 15, 2007

My 79 Ford Dana 60 has full time hubs as well. I'm wondering if I should leave them? I want to run an OX cable locker.

351ranger · Nov 19, 2007

I wouldn't run full time hubs. Especially if its a daily driver with a locker someday. I used to have full time hubs on my old military jeep and I switched to manual lock outs just so the axle isn't turning when it doesn't need to. If it's trail rig only it wouldn't be a big deal.

4x4junkie · Nov 21, 2007

Jim Oaks said:
My 79 Ford Dana 60 has full time hubs as well. I'm wondering if I should leave them? I want to run an OX cable locker.

Those are simple as dirt to swap, they're just slugs that replace a normal locking hub on that axle.

Pull the slugs out and swap real hubs on it.

The Dodge D44 above has unit-bearing hubs (just a big nut in the center), you have to swap out the spindles, wheel hubs & rotors with custom parts to put locking hubs on it.

TireIron · Nov 22, 2007

I do think I'm gonna go with the manual hubs that way if for some ungodly reason I break an alloy shaft or a spicer 760X joint with the 31's or 35's and my little 2.3L at least I can unlock the wheel and still drive the truck without the axleshafts spinning and destroying things... I'll just have to get a spare hub to carry around and use the hubs as a fuse to keep from blowing anything else up. The kit is milemarker so at least there is a lifetime warrenty on the hubs.

Yea for the D60 you can just get the D60 manual hubs and swap it out no problem. I'd recommend that also for the same reason about breaking a shaft and being able to unlock things.

soylent_green · Nov 22, 2007

Those MM hubs break all the time because they're supposed to. As you said, they're like a fuse that'll blow before anything else does. Besides, with your 2.3, and 31's you probably won't have to worry about breaking them. Just carry a spare set. They only take 10-15 minutes to change out. Alot quicker than an axleshaft.

I wouldn't think twice about it, go with the lock-outs.

Stay with full-time hub or convert to manual hubs?

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