possible 97 build

[rngrdngr]

o.k. So my buddy just bought a 97-2wd ranger and wants to build it as efficient as possible but very effective. He wants it really wide to minimize rollover (drives like a maniac). I had some ideas so I figured I run them out for the experts.

First off- cut the front I-beam mounts off and fabricate some to fit a 1975 f350 I-beam emplace. (Forgot to mention he has auto fab 5.5inch lift I-beams and James duff extended radius arms for a project truck he sold to buy the ranger) that would add 10inches to each side (which he loves) and also huge brakes to stop the planned 35inch tires. Figure I would fab shock hoops for some sway-a-way shocks and fab some new radius arm mounts. Fab new adjustable steering rods. As for the rear I would get a full size d60 with disk brakes and weld up some mounts for long travel springs or build a nice 4-link setup with sway-a-way shocks. Key points are its wide, has big brakes, and strong for less chance of breaks down.

What do ya think?

[84projectFORD]

sounds like a good plan but i think your gunna realize the f150 ibeams will be more fab work than you think. Cuttin and extending the beams you have might be a bit easier (assuming they are forged) or just buy an equal lenght beam kit for a ranger.

rear end sounds like a good idea, i prefer a ford 9" but a 60 should do well. im using hte giant motorsports 64" leaf kit "Link killer". i have heard very good things about it and im jsut puttin them on my truck

[fx2prerunner]

yeah X the f350 beams and get a set of beams probably be cheaper in the end and go with the 9" rear if possible and some adaptors to match the bolt pattern to the front if the money is there to 4 link the rear than the money is there for the proper beams up front. keep us posted on what happens

[dave@threat]

o.k. So my buddy just bought a 97-2wd ranger and wants to build it as efficient as possible but very effective. He wants it really wide to minimize rollover (drives like a maniac). I had some ideas so I figured I run them out for the experts.

First off- cut the front I-beam mounts off and fabricate some to fit a 1975 f350 I-beam emplace. (Forgot to mention he has auto fab 5.5inch lift I-beams and James duff extended radius arms for a project truck he sold to buy the ranger) that would add 10inches to each side (which he loves) and also huge brakes to stop the planned 35inch tires. Figure I would fab shock hoops for some sway-a-way shocks and fab some new radius arm mounts. Fab new adjustable steering rods. As for the rear I would get a full size d60 with disk brakes and weld up some mounts for long travel springs or build a nice 4-link setup with sway-a-way shocks. Key points are its wide, has big brakes, and strong for less chance of breaks down.

What do ya think?

Just so you know wider is not necessarily better. Shock tuning is key as well as knowing how to drive a desert truck. You can still roll a truck with 10" per-side beams just as easy as a truck with a stock track width. Keep in mind the wider you go the longer the tie-rods will be which means weaker. If your not good at geometry with a wide truck a hint of bump steer will end your day. Like mentioned a Ford 9" is what your going to want to run. The D60 is strong internally but externally its a week point and has a cast center section. There is a reason why you dont see many on desert trucks. Depending on how serious you want to get I recommend you get a custom 9" housing. They are designed to handle the abuse and are well worth it. Here is what I am running on mine. It has 3.5" 250 wall axle tubes with another 3"250 wall inter sleeve. Also here is a pic of the new beams I'm going to put on my truck. They are equal length beams.



http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t256/87-RANGER/IMG_2552.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t256/87-RANGER/IMG_3111.jpg

[84projectFORD]

Just so you know wider is not necessarily better. Shock tuning is key as well as knowing how to drive a desert truck. You can still roll a truck with 10" per-side beams just as easy as a truck with a stock track width. Keep in mind the wider you go the longer the tie-rods will be which means weaker. If your not good at geometry with a wide truck a hint of bump steer will end your day. Like mentioned a Ford 9" is what your going to want to run. The D60 is strong internally but externally its a week point and has a cast center section. There is a reason why you dont see many on desert trucks. Depending on how serious you want to get I recommend you get a custom 9" housing. They are designed to handle the abuse and are well worth it. Here is what I am running on mine. It has 3.5" 250 wall axle tubes with another 3"250 wall inter sleeve. Also here is a pic of the new beams I'm going to put on my truck. They are equal length beams.



http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t256/87-RANGER/IMG_2552.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t256/87-RANGER/IMG_3111.jpg

oh pretty :shok:. so whats wrong with the old ones?

[dave@threat]

oh pretty :shok:. so whats wrong with the old ones?

Nothing they are just old and my truck likes updates!:D

[84projectFORD]

haha very nice!

[rngrdngr]

ok thanx for the info. first off it has the 8.8 rear and but i have not taken the time to see iv it has a vvs sensor in the pumpkin. does anyone knjow if it does? if so than all i would have to do is add the exciter ring and drill ahole for the sensor, right?

also how much is the equal lenght ibeams?

84projectFORD thanx for the info on the bump steer it didnt come to my attension. also let me know how your rear end leafs work out.

i will let him know the info and post what he decides to do. if he desides to build the truck i will post the build when we start. most likly gunu be this coming winter.

[fx2prerunner]

I think HE should join TRS

[rngrdngr]

ok so i talked to scott and he decided not to go all out cause the high cost and time for the job. so he asked me to do some re-search for a good system and this is what i got.

auto fab wheel travel kit, deaver leaf spring set, bilstiens shocks, perrys fab and fiber fiberglass fenders, and a front bumper with some kc daylighters. also a detroit geared traction diff with 4.56.

[dave@threat]

Start with a cab cage then go from there.

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

ok thanx for the info. first off it has the 8.8 rear and but i have not taken the time to see iv it has a vvs sensor in the pumpkin. does anyone knjow if it does?

All ranger 8.8's have a RABS sensor and tone ring in the rear diff.

[rngrdngr]

Start with a cab cage then go from there.

thanks for the info but why do you think i should add a cage?

Sasquatch_Ryda thats what i thought i just know that by bro's 95 explorer has the abs sensors on the disk brakes so it made me question myself.

[dave@threat]

thanks for the info but why do you think i should add a cage?

Safety 1st...... One thing that seems to get over looked is desert trucks like to go fast. Going fast and rolling sucks if your dead. Its not to bad though if you have a good cab cage. Just flip her back over and keep on going. Don't get me wrong you don't have to be going fast to roll. A truck that has poorly tuned suspension can end up on the lid really easy. I recommend you start with a cab cage and continue from there. You dont have to but if your buddy is ballsy behind the wheel and you ride with him wouldn't you feel safer knowing if it was to roll you would be ok? :)

[rngrdngr]

Safety 1st...... One thing that seems to get over looked is desert trucks like to go fast. Going fast and rolling sucks if your dead. Its not to bad though if you have a good cab cage. Just flip her back over and keep on going. Don't get me wrong you don't have to be going fast to roll. A truck that has poorly tuned suspension can end up on the lid really easy. I recommend you start with a cab cage and continue from there. You dont have to but if your buddy is ballsy behind the wheel and you ride with him wouldn't you feel safer knowing if it was to roll you would be ok? :)

damn good point. but its not him i worry about its me cause im like the young kid in nascar that races for the navy. i push things as close to the limit as possible:icon_hornsup:. now do i have to build a bad ass to regulations cage or would a 3inchx.25 light bar that goes into the cab along the rails down the window chanel and back to the frame with peices going from one side to the other work?

[dave@threat]

damn good point. but its not him i worry about its me cause im like the young kid in nascar that races for the navy. i push things as close to the limit as possible:icon_hornsup:. now do i have to build a bad ass to regulations cage or would a 3inchx.25 light bar that goes into the cab along the rails down the window chanel and back to the frame with peices going from one side to the other work?


Oh shit son I need to educate you haha! For a cab cage you are going to need to build a real cab cage. You need tubing at the A pillar, B pillar, And C pillar if the trucks an extra cab. It needs to be welded 360* and welded to the frame not the body. Triangulation is your best friend when it comes to cage work. More then likely the truck is going to weigh over 4,000ls so I would build all of the main tubes out of 2" 120 DOM and the rest out of 1 3/4" 120 wall DOM. If you don't think you will race the truck at any point in time just build the entire cab cage out of 1 3/4" 120 wall DOM. All of the racing promoters allow 1 3/4" tubing but some require 2" main tubes if the vehicle is over 4,000lbs. You can expect to have at least 150+ feet in tubing just in the cab cage alone. On average 300 ft when a desert truck is caged front to back.

[rngrdngr]

Oh shit son I need to educate you haha! For a cab cage you are going to need to build a real cab cage. You need tubing at the A pillar, B pillar, And C pillar if the trucks an extra cab. It needs to be welded 360* and welded to the frame not the body. Triangulation is your best friend when it comes to cage work. More then likely the truck is going to weigh over 4,000ls so I would build all of the main tubes out of 2" 120 DOM and the rest out of 1 3/4" 120 wall DOM. If you don't think you will race the truck at any point in time just build the entire cab cage out of 1 3/4" 120 wall DOM. All of the racing promoters allow 1 3/4" tubing but some require 2" main tubes if the vehicle is over 4,000lbs. You can expect to have at least 150+ feet in tubing just in the cab cage alone. On average 300 ft when a desert truck is caged front to back.

love the " shit son" its my favorite term to use. yea i do know it goes to the frame not the body, didnt mean to come across that way. i figured that wouldnt be strong enough i just dont have the time to go that extreame. but thanks for the info its nice to know and other people who dont know will find it and get the info. but besides the cage is the other stuff a good setup or should i do anything else?