Oil change

[tivouser08]

So I fixed my trans, simple fluid and filter change worked wonders. Well had it done. Now I am finally going to start doing my own oil changes again as I used to do them on my Mustangs. Just wondering if ya'll have any tricks/tips. I know it is a pretty simple procedure, as it was on the cars. Just making sure to ask before rather than after. I think it takes the good ole FL1A filter.
Any suggestions appreciated in advance.

[firefighter]

If you go for fram its PH8A

[firefighter]

If you go for a Fram filter its PH8A

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

Please don't use the fram filter. Stick with the Motorcraft FL1A and 4.75L of 5w30.

[fleck]

Motorcraft all the way. Me and a handful of people prefer the Castrol GTX high mileage oil, it stays nice and clean :o)

Edit: Oh and something important I remember from our oil/filters convo on the 3.0 board, oil the filter and hand-tighten only.

[tivouser08]

I appreciate the responses. It is a nice day here at the beach so hopefully I can finally get it up on the ramps and get it changed. So really only hand tighten the filter? Guess I am worried about leaks, but I know they are a pain to get off if put on too tight with the wrench.
Fleck, sounds like you have done some of the same work to your truck. I have the 4.0...had some bad hesitation issues but that was fixed with a new MAF sensor (I think that is what it was!) Was about 45 from Autozone.

[pacodiablo]

Hand tighten only! They are meant to be put on that way. If you use a wrench, you'll have a hard time getting it off next time, and it could damage the threads. Remember to put a coat of oil on the gasket.

[tivouser08]

Gotcha..that is the plan. Was not able to do it today but finally looked at it..won't even have to put it on the ramps it looks like. Nice! Bolt for the oil pan and filter go straight in from the bottom.

Next project after this is taking the wheels off and repainting them stock color, as they have some age. I wish I could get a set of newer 15 inch stock rims but dont' want to spend a ton of money.

[Will]

Fram is fine. I've been using what's cheap since I started driving and most often it's Fram. I typically put 300,000 on a motor and give it, still running perfectly, to an underprivaleged family member. The important thing is changing your oil when it's due. Six months is my method.

[tais420]

Fram is bad for these ford motors for one they dont have anti-flowback valves in them like the motorcraft and K&N filters do which isnt really bad but its not good seeming as they make them specific for ford vehicles.. trust me i changed alot of oil for a long time and it is better to keep the factory filter over a fram but it does cost of course a fram through summit is more expesive than a motorcraft actually but probably not at your local parts store oh and make sure to check the drain plug gasket my truck set for a while before i fixed the body damage and the gasket was gone so now i have a little leak there but nothing serious

[Sevensecondsuv]

It is a nice day here at the beach so hopefully I can finally get it up on the ramps and get it changed.

Well it was -20 here 2 weeks ago and I was laying underneath the truck on a patch of snow/ice with road salt spray, rust and oil dripping on my face struggling to turn a socket with my gloved hands just to change the dang oil. You are very lucky.

And the motorcraft filter is the same price as a fram at walmart.

[JohnnyO]

And the motorcraft filter is the same price as a fram at walmart.
+1. :icon_thumby:
Motorcraft is a much better filter and doesn't cost any more than a Fram. A Fram won't necessarily blow up your engine but there are better quality filters available for the same money or less.
I use Motorcraft.

[Z3CHYD]

+1. :icon_thumby:
Motorcraft is a much better filter and doesn't cost any more than a Fram. A Fram won't necessarily blow up your engine but there are better quality filters available for the same money or less.
I use Motorcraft.

+2

[fleck]

I was about to say, since when is Fram substantially cheaper than Motorcraft? No reason to go for Fram when the Motorcraft can be had for $3 and change.

[tivouser08]

Yup...Motorcraft all the way...and used 10W30 Havoline. Still not using synthetic and not going to switch over. I debated between 5w and 10w but with it warming up went with 10. Didn't even have to put it on the ramps either. Now for the antifreeze/coolant flush.

[tivouser08]

Oh and 7SecSteve..I feel for you. I was with an airline..think a popular restaurant that serves chicken wings...if you give a Hoot..and we used to fly into Rockford. They put us up at the "Trump Dump" when we had overnights. I don't miss that place!

[firefighter]

being a 1996 and only guessing over 100,000+ i would use atleast semi-synthetic. I run it with a fram filter... and i'm at 196,XXX

[Beanmachine7000]

It really doesn't matter what oil you use as long as you change it regularly... I have had the Fram problem though, I had one on my 2.9 that had low oil pressure... Changed oil and put on a Motorcraft filter and fixed the low oil pressure problem...

[JohnnyO]

Also make sure the oil filter gasket comes off with the old filter. I've only had one stick, ever, and I caught it, but that happened to a bud of mine. If there are two gaskets it makes an awful mess right away when you start it up.

[tivouser08]

Update....oil change is long over. Much easier than on my Mustangs. No probs, no complaints...thanks for all the advice. Great forum!
Brett

[WainOhG]

My Walmart has a very good price on the Motorcraft synthetic blend oil as well. I get the 5 quart jug container for around $12-13.

[tivouser08]

I got the 5 qt. Havoline 5W30 for 12.00 and the FL1A for 3.26...not bad...so oil changes are now 15.00 or as opposed to 25-35...

*I heard a long time back that Havoline made Motorcraft? Anyone else? I guess it all comes from the same dead dinosaur or plant... ;)