Transmission re-install

[the pirate]

96

4 cylinder FI

4 gear with overdrive and a reverse.

2 wd

So I have finaly got the (*&^@# tranny out replaced the clutch and the slave cylinder and the master cylinder. Now I am trying to get the damn thing back in and I cannot seem to get the tranny and the block of the engin to meet close enough to get the bolts in. No matter how I wiggle it curse at it hit it kick it spit at it.

Any ideas.

Thanks.

[MAKG]

Presuming you used an alignment tool on that clutch, you just have to get it aligned just right and push it in. Some manhandling is usually required.

To see if it's aligned, look at the gap between the block and bellhousing. It should be the same all the way around. Put it in gear and turn the output while pushing it in. This is really easy on a 4WD, but on yours you may need to use the driveshaft.

If you don't have a transmission jack or platform jack, it would be helpful. Not required, though.

Mazda transmissions are a bit tight due to the stub shaft. But they WILL fit in there. Disconnecting the cat from the exhaust pipe and tilting the back of the engine down as far as it will go without breaking anything (watch the intake manifold!) can help quite a lot.

[Hardwareman]

One time I had to go to the auto parts store and buy longer bolts to help me get the tranny closer to the engine block so I could bolt it back together.

Just a thought.




Allen

[AllanD]

Also remember that once you get it up and ALMOST into place that ushing it home BY HAND before you reconnect the clutch line is an exercise in frustration management...

AD

[the pirate]

Ok so dropped the tranny and moved that annoying mess of wires at the top of the bell housing out of the way so I would stop crushing them. Next I pulled the slave back off and zip tied the return spring in the compressed position. Don’t worry I rigged it so the can be removed through the inspection hole. Tried putting the tranny back in. Still could not get it to slide all the way up flush. I could see through the inspection hole that I was splined in, no idea why it would keep doing this. But I noticed that the gap was now a good bit thinner. Managed to get the bolts in and use them to pull the tranny the rest of the way in. So we will see how it turns out.

[brendank]

Any difference in angle between the engine and transmission will cause the splines to not mesh properly. I've found that the best way is to get the clutch completely centered(I do it by eye), and then put the trans in 1st or reverse, and get someone to watch the input shaft while pushing the trans in. Then if you turn on the output, it helps to get the splines engaged properly.

Never ever pull the trans in with longer bolts! If the splines are out of alignment and you're threading it in, you can end up wrecking the clutch or worse. I've seen it happen. Some people get longer bolts, cut off the heads, thread them into the bellhousing, and use them as dowels. That works well too.

[Hardwareman]

Yes you definitely can use longer bolts to pull the tranny up tight to the block IF you are sure the splined shaft is correctly aligned and into the clutch disc. And it's your last resort for the last inch or so.



Allen

[Jspafford]

Yes you definitely can use longer bolts to pull the tranny up tight to the block IF you are sure the splined shaft is correctly aligned and into the clutch disc. And it's your last resort for the last inch or so.



Allen

It should fit together tightly without having to use mechanical force. If it will not fit the last 1/2 inch there is something holding it.

I would never recommend someone using bolts to pull it together regardless of how sure you are of it being correct. That is how a lot of people end up with pinched O2 wires and then they get a CEL and can't figure out how a clutch job can trigger a CEL.

[brendank]

Yes you definitely can use longer bolts to pull the tranny up tight to the block IF you are sure the splined shaft is correctly aligned and into the clutch disc. And it's your last resort for the last inch or so.



Allen

I didn't say you couldn't, I said you shouldn't. Hey, if that's the way you do it, all the power to you.

If you're sure that the splined shaft is correctly aligned and into the clutch disc, then why would you need to pull it in? All it takes at that point is a light push.

BTW, at that point, you can't tell me that you're ever 100% sure that it's in and the splines are lined up. Have you ever tried looking to see if the splined shaft is engaged when the trans only has 2" left to slide in? You'll never see that no matter what angle you look at.

[Mutant Pony]

Using the longer bolts is a bad idea. The pilot bearing is extremely important to trans longevity and it is the last inch. You should always make sure the the trans goes all the way by hand.
I never depend on a spline liner. I sometimes use them to help but, NEVER depend on them fully. There are three openings in the side off the pressure plate, you can feel the edge of the clutch through each of those holes. You can put the clutch Exactly in the center that way.

[the pirate]

Well it is in and refilled with fluid. No way I am dropping that thing out again. I had it in neutral and while I was putting in the drive shaft I gave it a spin. everything moved clean with no grinding or binding. I havent cranked her yet but will in the morning just to give a listen. I stabbed that damn thing a dozen times and could not get her in all the way. just that last inch. The bolts pulled her in smooth I did not have to haul on them to make them turn they just gently slid the assembly together. I listened the whole time to make sure I didn't hear the tell tale crunch of a clutch disk ripping. I think it may be the throw out bearing preasure plate that was causing the snag? With that last inch I could see through the inspection hole that the bearing had made contact with the fingers of the plate. I double and tripple checked to make sure I had the right parts as well as made sure I lined up on all the refrence marks during reassembly. We will see how my work fairs. I am NEVER touching another car again unless it is a VW and no later than 1980!

Right now the fight is to get the damn clutch system bled. I have mush for pedal response right now. LOL and what the hell is with the rubber thing in the clutch resivor. I know it is a gasket. But man it looks like a sex toy and seems to just get in my way.

[alnvilma]

Thanks for posting all this stuff. I'm moments away from getting my tranny pulled and replacing it and the clutch too. Doing this in the carport on my back is a real exercise in frustration. I've made up some new four letter words.
One of my biggest concerns is swapping my old tail case to the newer used tranny. I thought I was going to cry while trying to get that last top bolt out of the bell housing.

[Hardwareman]

Well it is in and refilled with fluid. No way I am dropping that thing out again. I had it in neutral and while I was putting in the drive shaft I gave it a spin. everything moved clean with no grinding or binding. I havent cranked her yet but will in the morning just to give a listen. I stabbed that damn thing a dozen times and could not get her in all the way. just that last inch. The bolts pulled her in smooth I did not have to haul on them to make them turn they just gently slid the assembly together. I listened the whole time to make sure I didn't hear the tell tale crunch of a clutch disk ripping. I think it may be the throw out bearing preasure plate that was causing the snag? With that last inch I could see through the inspection hole that the bearing had made contact with the fingers of the plate. I double and tripple checked to make sure I had the right parts as well as made sure I lined up on all the refrence marks during reassembly. We will see how my work fairs. I am NEVER touching another car again unless it is a VW and no later than 1980!

Right now the fight is to get the damn clutch system bled. I have mush for pedal response right now. LOL and what the hell is with the rubber thing in the clutch resivor. I know it is a gasket. But man it looks like a sex toy and seems to just get in my way.


Yeah, sometimes that last inch is kind of hard for some reason. That's the reason I had to use the longer bolts at first to help get it seated. You do have to be careful not to pinch anything though and be sure nothing is obstructing. Glad to hear you got it done man!:icon_thumby:



Allen

[MAKG]

The last HALF inch or so is because you have to compress the slave cylinder a little. The concentric slaves are never completely retracted like the older release levers were. It doesn't take that much force; it's just VERY awkward to apply anything significant at that angle.

My SM465 will go all the way in flush with no trouble (aside from its excessive weight). I've never seen a post-1984 RBV transmission do that.

I prefer to start ALL SIX (or eight for 4.0Ls) bolts and then pull them in evenly, just like pressure plate bolts, specifically to protect the pilot bearing.

[4x4junkie]

Open the bleeder fitting on the slave (or do like AllanD mentioned) it'll slide all the way on without a gap.
I did the 4.0L clutch swap on my BII some months ago and the trans went right back onto the engine no problem.

[rickcdewitt]

Also remember that once you get it up and ALMOST into place that ushing it home BY HAND before you reconnect the clutch line is an exercise in frustration management...

ADi wrestled with mine for 10 minutes before realizing that,and felt pretty stupid afterwards.

[the pirate]

GRHHAAAA! BLEEPIN BLEEP BLEEP on a BLLEP!!!
Just spent 4 hours bleeding the damn clutch. Used the gravity method no good. Pedal basically falls to the floor. Used a pressure bleeder with just enough pressure to move the dot 3 put 8 pints through the damn thing and still nothing. Basically right back where I started when I began this fiasco. The only difference is I WILL NOT take that tranny out again even with a gun in my face. The only thing I can think of is that I damaged the slave cylinder when I put the new throw out bearing on. The one that came on the cylinder was not right and the instructions basically said that if the clutch plate came with a different slave cylinder top to take it apart and put the top that came with the clutch on which I did.

I don’t Fing know. All I know is I am out a vehicle and cant afford a mechanic right now. If any one lives in or near Austin TX and wants this modern POS for $1,200.00 it is yours. Then I can buy my wife a nice VW bus with twice as many problems but one million times less BS. At least I know I can take one of those apart completely and have it back together in the time it took me to F with this thing.

[Sunk]

Sounds like there is air in the clutch master. Remove it from the firewall and turn in upside down. Use the plunger that attaches to the pedal and depress it and release it. Otherwise bleed normally. I've run into this problem before, its kind of a hassle, but it works. Oddly enough when I replaced the clutch on my truck, it bled fine with the master mounted to the firewall. I guess I got lucky.

[the pirate]

So I was so tired from doing this whole process that I missed the obvious. Thank you Sunk you jarred a brain cell or two loose. The angle of the MC makes air gather in the top. No matter how much you pressure bleed it will never come out because the inlet and outlet are at the low end. Jammed the MC pedal down pressure bled. Pumped jammed, tapped MC to knock bubbles loose. Then finally had the wife pump the clutch till no more air came out. Done. The bitch works. You are my hero for the moment dude. Anything you need from Tx?