What to look for in buying a ranger
- Thread starter rjppunk
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welcome!
the 3.0 is a car engine by design so it lacks the low end torque needed to pull significant amounts of weight. if used in a truck that will primarily be used for a DD and not a work truck it does just fine. a 3.0 is a cock roach and is very hard to kill.
the 4.0 is a strong motor that produces low end torque but will not be a gas saver. if you plan on pulling a trailer, wheeling, loading the bed with weight regularly, etc i would recommend the 4.0. the 4.0 is a good reliable engine and you will hear mixed opinions on the durability of the 4.0 vs the 3.0.
i am not very familiar with the 98+ rangers because i dont know anything about the IFS setup. i always recommend people do not buy any vehicle the first production year after major changes have been made to a vehicle. in 1998 the ranger became a truly IFS vehicle and i would personally not buy a 98 model year for that reason. typically it takes one full model year to work out the quirks in a new design if not more.
regular issues with older rangers
the older rangers had issues with the spring hangers rusting to dust
cab mounts would rust/rot through
the core support would crumble at the body mounts
electric t-cases acted up
along with a few other items that seem to be a semi-regular issues
86
the 3.0 is a car engine by design so it lacks the low end torque needed to pull significant amounts of weight. if used in a truck that will primarily be used for a DD and not a work truck it does just fine. a 3.0 is a cock roach and is very hard to kill.
the 4.0 is a strong motor that produces low end torque but will not be a gas saver. if you plan on pulling a trailer, wheeling, loading the bed with weight regularly, etc i would recommend the 4.0. the 4.0 is a good reliable engine and you will hear mixed opinions on the durability of the 4.0 vs the 3.0.
i am not very familiar with the 98+ rangers because i dont know anything about the IFS setup. i always recommend people do not buy any vehicle the first production year after major changes have been made to a vehicle. in 1998 the ranger became a truly IFS vehicle and i would personally not buy a 98 model year for that reason. typically it takes one full model year to work out the quirks in a new design if not more.
regular issues with older rangers
the older rangers had issues with the spring hangers rusting to dust
cab mounts would rust/rot through
the core support would crumble at the body mounts
electric t-cases acted up
along with a few other items that seem to be a semi-regular issues
86
I'm noticing that suspension lift kits are more expensive and there are less to chose from for the newer models.... Also I dont have a need to tow anything larger than a 12' aluminum boat which the 3.0l should handle no problem.
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- Chazy New York
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- 1997
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i have a 3.0 and nothng been touched and i cant kill it
the oil and routine stuff is changed but thats it
the oil and routine stuff is changed but thats it
After looking around this site I'm thinking mod wise that the older ones are better, all the kits are significantly cheaper and there are a ton more options. ie a 98 or newer ranger suspension lift kit is about 2500$ new 
and is is only offered by 2 companies in one size each.... where as for the older ones they are waaaaaaaaay more affordable ive seen anywhere from 100$ used on the classified forum to like 800 new.
and is is only offered by 2 companies in one size each.... where as for the older ones they are waaaaaaaaay more affordable ive seen anywhere from 100$ used on the classified forum to like 800 new.
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Yeah the suspension systems changed dramatically from 97 to 98+. I love the GenII-GenIII rangers (89 to 97). They still have the front coils and not torsion bars. I had a 99 Ranger, 3.0L. Loved the 3.0L, I never had an issue with it, just regular maintenance and you'll be good to go. And there is still some power in it, just don't expect a drag racer...plenty of power to pull a 12 foot aluminum boat.
Yeah I've heard that from a few people before, I religiously change my oil and get tuneups every 20k. I always wonder if I can trust the guy before me though. Anyone got some nice pictures of a 97 xlt supercab interiors? I'm trying to figure out what I want to do to the truck audio wise.
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Broad generalizations follow. Salt and pepper to your taste...
If you plan to actually off-road your truck, choose an '89-'97 model preferably with the 4.0/5 speed/manual hubs/manual transfer case combination. They have an abundance of aftermarket support and the factory driveline hardware is good for up to 33" tires if the 4.0 is installed. Some say you can go 35s.
If your idea of off-roading is a bit tamer, get an '01 or later. The '01 has the SOHC 4.0 available which is quite a bit more powerful than the earlier 4.0. Plus the '01 and up 4x4 does not have the problematic PVH hubs of the '98-'00 models.
The 3.0 v6 is just about the same across the entire model years lineup.
The 4 cylinder 4x4s are rare, but there are some around.
General consensus is that the best all around years are '93 and '94.
Most improvements from later years can be fairly easily installed in the older models, ie, the one piece driveshaft that appeared in '98 and up xtra cabs is almost a direct bolt-in for earlier models.
Good Luck!
If you plan to actually off-road your truck, choose an '89-'97 model preferably with the 4.0/5 speed/manual hubs/manual transfer case combination. They have an abundance of aftermarket support and the factory driveline hardware is good for up to 33" tires if the 4.0 is installed. Some say you can go 35s.
If your idea of off-roading is a bit tamer, get an '01 or later. The '01 has the SOHC 4.0 available which is quite a bit more powerful than the earlier 4.0. Plus the '01 and up 4x4 does not have the problematic PVH hubs of the '98-'00 models.
The 3.0 v6 is just about the same across the entire model years lineup.
The 4 cylinder 4x4s are rare, but there are some around.
General consensus is that the best all around years are '93 and '94.
Most improvements from later years can be fairly easily installed in the older models, ie, the one piece driveshaft that appeared in '98 and up xtra cabs is almost a direct bolt-in for earlier models.
Good Luck!
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