clutch slave cylinder question


richard99

10+ Year Member

Joined
Feb 5, 2008
Messages
5
Points
3,001
Transmission
Automatic
1995 4x4, 3.0...

Just replaced the trans and slave cylinder. I'm in the process of bleeding it now. I've read all the posts, and they're right. This process is a b***h. Does anyone know if there is a SURE FIRE way to bleed the bugger right, first time? I've got a steady stream of fluid coming out of the bleeder valve, but the clutch is still just engaging right near the floor.

One more, please: if the clutch is disengaging correctly, should I be able to grab the output shaft and rotate it?

Exasperated in Maine.
 
I had a bastard of a time bleeding mine when i changed the slave. What i recommend is pumping several times, holding, and then having your assistant crack the valve. Close, repeat.
I also had a steady stream with single pump method, but low engagement.
 
I hook up a 2oz syringe as the reservoir and force brake fluid down with the bleeder open and close the bleeder, seems to work the first time almost every time.
 
the problem usually isnt the slave, its the master. when its bolted to the firewall, its on an incline, which traps a bubble of air at the top of the m/c. unbolt it, turn it upside down (clutch line at the top) and bleed it that way.

FYI, the first time i did the clutch on my truck, the master wouldnt bleed out. i finally removed it from the truck to discover that the piston was completely worn out and its seals were missing. it was working fine before i tore into the clutch, but it was just too sloppy to be able to bleed itself. so if your m/c is the original, you might need to replace it as well.
 

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