Still having problems.....

Ok it isn't fixed after all...still ticking, still bogging down, still no power.....My dad seems to think that the catalytic converter is stopped up....I'm going to try that next.

The ticking isn't going to go away unless you replace the worn valve components. It's doubtful the cat is clogged, pull codes, keep looking. You checked the fuel pressure regulator? Fuel pressure?

sweetwater i forget, is it a stick or auto? my auto was bogging down and it turned out to be the vaccum modulator on the tranny. i thought it was driveline related.

edit: nevermind, i looked back. it could be the cat. after a bunch of miles those things get clogged up. let me know if thats it. ill keep thinkin

check this out too: http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35229

I understand that there will be some ticking that comes with age, but when this occurs, it is a different ticking noise and alot louder.....Its a manual tranny...I'm going to look at the cat conv today....it smells of rotten eggs here lately when it happens!

i think your right about the cat. theres sulfur additives in the fuel and with they are not burned off they can clog or at least build up in the cat. but back to why the fuel isnt burning completely im not sure

Ok...so it wasn't the cat conv afterall, someone had already ripped the guts out of it....so I am back to square 1...I am going to replace the ignition module, if that doesn't work, then its off the auto repair shop....I can't thiunk of anything else it could be...maybe the map sensor? Who knows?

I had something similar with my 86. It did not have the tic but you might check this anyway. There were two things that caused my problems.
First there is a vent line from the tank to the charcoal canister on the radiator support. On the tank end of that line is a check valve that opens when the fuel is pumped out of the tank. On mine this valve was stuck and would not let air into the tank causing a vacuum the pump could not overcome. Then there is a check valve in the filler cap that also that vents the tank when the engine is running. I checked this by sucking on the side of the cap that screws into the tank. On a good cap you can suck air in but not blow it out. If they are both not working fuel will not come out of the tank after the vacuum builds up.
I took the check valve apart and cleaned it and replaced the cap and the high speed problems went away.
While not the same as yours I also had a problem where at any speed from idle to wide open throttle the engine would start missing and sometimes stop altogether. There was no pattern to the times it would happen. It would go days without a problem or happen several times a day. This went on for a month or so.
I always thought it was fuel related and I actually taped a fuel pressure gauge to the hood for a week and drove it. The fuel pressure was good at all times and so one day I just sat down and thought about it. (I know, dangerous thing to do). The times it did it the most was when there was somebody sitting in the passenger seat. After ruling out the inertia SW the only thing left was the EEC. I pulled the computer off the kick panel and with pliers started moving wires and when I got to pins 58 and 59 the engine would start missing or die. I found the metal sleaves on the 60 pin plug had spread out and would lose contact with the pin in the computer. I tightened up the sleaves and its been several months without a problem. Pins 58 and 59 are the grounds for the fuel injectors and I guess that when people sitting in the front seat would move their feet they hit the wire bundle and moved it causing the bad connection and they move it again and the connection returned and it ran good.
While the computer part is not the same problem you are having it won't hurt to check it to make sure.
Can't say it is your problem but something for you to think about.