K&n ?

[GreatWhite]

Will an 2007 Ford Focus K&N Typhoon (CAI) fit on my ranger or would it be difficult to make it fit? :icon_welder:

What does everyone else have for there 2.3L?

[Wicked_Sludge]

dont waste your money. your factory intake is already a true cold air system...you wont gain anything but whistling noises from the over-priced K&N system.

[Black'03LevelII]

+1 to what Wicked said. I fit one from another vehicle I had, to my '03s 4.0l and it made absolutely NO difference in power or fuel mileage what so ever.

[feellnfroggy]

dont waste your money. your factory intake is already a true cold air system...you wont gain anything but whistling noises from the over-priced K&N system.

I dont know why everyone keeps saying this. Did ford change something? Every factory intake I have seen has an intake pipe that narrows down real bad and then widens out restricting flow real bad. My mustang and expe both are like that. The factory box intake has an opening into the wheel well, but its not the same, The airflow restriction, IE the filter, is in the engine bay with the hot air as opposed to filter inthe wheel well so any air in the pipe in the bay as moving straight into the intake. Essentially moving through the hot engine bay unrestricted. Less exposure to the heat.


Having said all this my expe is a 2000, and the mustang is also a 2000. But my ranger is a '92. Did I miss sumthing or are the newer rangers built differently than what I described. Someone gotta pic of newer ranger intake track?

[Wicked_Sludge]

the factory filter is contained in the filter box. the filter box has an intake hose coming from the dirty side the leads to a fresh air source, usually behind the headlight or from the fender well area. your factory ranger intake is the same way, drawing fresh, cold air from behind the passanger headlight.

most K&N kits change this effective setup to what i like to call a "warm air intake", due to using an exposed K&N filter inside the engine compartment. some kits include some baffles and shields to attempt to isolate the filter element from the engine compartment, but its still an exposed element inside the engine bay...which is not as effective as the factory filter that is completely sealed off from the warm engine compartment air.

[dru]

the factory filter is contained in the filter box. the filter box has an intake hose coming from the dirty side the leads to a fresh air source, usually behind the headlight or from the fender well area. your factory ranger intake is the same way, drawing fresh, cold air from behind the passanger headlight.

most K&N kits change this effective setup to what i like to call a "warm air intake", due to using an exposed K&N filter inside the engine compartment. some kits include some baffles and shields to attempt to isolate the filter element from the engine compartment, but its still an exposed element inside the engine bay...which is not as effective as the factory filter that is completely sealed off from the warm engine compartment air.



this is exactly what i thought when i was looking at mine, they put a shitty little heat shield to block engine air from getting to the cone that probably does nothing to help. WASTE OF MONEY!!!! if i could go back in time id just do the airbox mod or nothing.:annoyed:

[feellnfroggy]

the factory filter is contained in the filter box. the filter box has an intake hose coming from the dirty side the leads to a fresh air source, usually behind the headlight or from the fender well area. your factory ranger intake is the same way, drawing fresh, cold air from behind the passanger headlight.

This is what I was referring to, the stock airbox sits in the heat of the engine bay and the air just soaks up the heat as it stumbles through the factory filter, The K&N filter allows the air to flow faster, hence less time soaking up the heat, But your right onthe money about the little baffle thing. When i refer to setups I forget that K&N's dont route all the way into teh fender well. I also forget not everyones is setup like mine.



I would like to recommend a CAI from MAC. This one routes right into the fenderwell, where the filter mount is. This is the best setup I have found so far. Except when I ran my stang without a bumper and locked it up in a heavy rain. Absolutely do not recommend this for mudders or crawlers.

Mac also makes long tubes and off road h pipes for my stang 3.8. prolly for the ranger 4.0's too.

[Wicked_Sludge]

the air has to travel through the engine compartment no matter what. the factory filter isnt a restriction (after all, they used the same element for the 2.3, 3.0, 4.0, 4.0 SOHC, 3.8 supercharged, etc...), so the air velocity isnt much lower at the filter than it is in the intake pipe...so it isnt spending any more time in the engine compartmant than it would if you located the filter in the bumper or somewhere else outside the engine compartment.

[feellnfroggy]

The air slows down at the filter no matter where it is. but the conical intakes, as well as the K&N intakes allow the air to flow faster. The ability to flow faster means less time spent in the engine bay.

Also your right the factory filter isnt too abd of a restriction, but coupled with the intake track that narrows along the path plus the ford trademark intake silencer (Do they still use this?) It all adds up

[Wicked_Sludge]

your engine will only flow "X" amount of air, based on its displacement and VE. the filter ford used from the factory on the 100 HP 2.3 is the SAME filter element used on the 210HP supercharged 3.8 that went into the superchickens. obviously if that filter can support 210HP, it wont pose even the slightest restriction to a 100HP N/A 4 banger...or even a 160HP 4.0. thus, a K&N isnt going to flow any more air than the stock filter element because the stock filter does not pose a restriction.

velocity is determined by volume. if you dont increase the volume, you dont increase the velocity.

[feellnfroggy]

The engine will flow 'x' amount of air, but with the factory setup, it's not flowing that amount, its flowing less. The factory paper filter is not too restrictive but an aftermarket filter is less restrictive. Also the factory tube, narrows about halfway down. Thus restricting the volume of airflow. As does as, the air intake silencer. If they still use them on rangers. I know my 2000 stang 3.8 has an intake silencer as does my expe, but its not a ranger. Anyways, and aftermarket tube on a CAI is about 4" dia. on avg. This allows an increase in air pulled through the system. A properly tuned exhaust assist in this "pulling air through" and allows the CAI to work even more efficiently. This being while gas mileage increases with these compontents.

Everything can be done with a stock intake, but maximum gains will not be seen. Its not as efficient as aftermarket. The gains from aftermarket CAI's are proven however minimal (3-5HP at het flywheel, 1-3 at the wheels and 2-3 MPG for the avg driver). If this wasnt the case they wouldnt sell like they do. As a matter of fact, Im pretty sure if they werent all people say they are then they wouldnt be made for our vehicles.

Most if not all results from these things have been dyno tested, both by the manufacterers who obviously embellish their results and the people who use them. Its even been tested if just removing the intake silencer will increase flow volume. It does.

[Wicked_Sludge]

how do you know the factory filter element is restrictive? have you calculated the area required for your engine to move its peak CFM with a minimal pressure drop accross the filter? explain to me how a 3.8 makes 210 HP with this element, but its still restrictive for a 2.3 moving roughly 1/2 the CFM.

the K&N systems large intake tube brings up another valid point. velocity is a function of volume and area. by increasing the area of the intake tube, your decreasing the velocity of the intake air, thus allowing it to soak up more engine heat before entering the chambers. the K&N is also made of metal IIRC, which is extremely good at conducting heat, versus the stock ABS plastic intake which is a decent insulator. the reduced velocity also reduces VE at lower RPM ranges (though you might make it back at a higher RPM, if your engine can turn fast enough).

FYI, i have a "high flowing" K&N filter and probably one of the least restrictive exhaust systems on TRS and im still getting the same 22-24MPG i got before.

[GreatWhite]

next question? Exhaust or should I just get a super 40 flowmaster?

[Wicked_Sludge]

if you want to make more noise, have at it. if your looking for power and mielage gains...once again, there are none to be had.

[turbo cat]

the filter and intake plumbing flows more than enough air but depending on the setup there can be one or multiple intake silencers that can be removed for a little more flow. As far as I rember on the newer airboxes theres a small square for the inlet. You can open that up a bit.

As for cat back exhaust systems youll find a very small gain most of the time. this is do to reduced backpressure and if setup right a higher gas velocity. This effect together minimizes pumping losses and creates a good vaccum in the exhaust to scavenge the ports. IF things are setup/sized correctly. You will also gain more power witha strait thru muffler vs a bafled muffler. The strait thru keeps the gas speed up and moving down the pipe. Too large of a piep size will kill the velocity at low rpms killing some torque

[MikeInIdaho]

There are differing opinions on this site about which exhaust setup is the "best" for their trucks, flowmaster vs. magnaflow, glasspack vs. "turbo" style, cat vs. no cat etc., etc.,

In my opinion, I don't like flowmaster mufflers on 4 cylinder vehicles due to the raspy, "tinny" exhaust note that they give. Running a 14 inch 40 series on a 4 banger just doesn't sound quite right to me. I had an 86 Toyota hilux with an old-school 40 series flowmaster on it and didn't care too much for the exhaust note it gave the truck. If you have a v-8 or even a v-6 its a different story, but even on a six flowmasters just dont quite do it for me.

I'm not very fond of glasspack-style mufflers either, as they sound even tinnier, ricier and shittier in general than flowmasters.

I had dual 40-series flowmasters on my 90 deg v6 lumina, and while I enjoyed the low, low rumble of the exhaust at idle, I was still getting a little "fartcan" note at higher rpms. The issue was remedied by changing out the 40's for dual two-chambered magnaflows (2 1/2 in/out) with 2 1/2 in. tips. It's now quite a bit quieter at idle and actually sounds like a sixer instead of a damn honda. I'm planning on getting a 2 1/4 in (2.5 core) straight through magnaflow with the perforated steel core put on my truck here in the next week or so, and have no plans to change anything else on the exhaust as there is no reason to do so. The factory 2 1/4 in. exhaust piping on my 4 cyl b2300 is just about the perfect diameter for its application, the smaller diameter actually helping to boost low-end torque, just like the non-restrictive factory intake ducting. After all, we are talking about a 4 cylinder truck, not a racecar. If you want gobs of top-end horsepower, buy a GSX-R.

p.s. : My LTZ Lumina makes the same horsepower numbers as a stock 5.0 mustang and I'm using the stock airbox with a drop-in k&n panel filter that's almost the exact same size and dimension as the one on my truck

[GreatWhite]

thanks so I guess I won't do anything to my truck considering it would just be wasting money.

And Mike believe me I would have a GSXR but my parents probably would not be to thrilled. So I should probably go out an buy a hayabusa !

[GreatWhite]

One more question........so what are some inexpensive parts that will give the truck some balls?

[Wicked_Sludge]

"cheap" and "horsepower" are not words that should be used together. if there was a cheap, simple way to increase power output, ford would have done it from the factory (remember, horsepower sells). which is why its not as simple as bolting on a cone filter or putting bigger exhaust pipes on.

regearing the axles, a set of underdrive pulleys (if you can find them...focus ones may work), and a programmer are your best bets. none are cheap.

[jax4bangin]

i had been running a custom 3" intake tube and a k&n panel filter for about 2 months. after reading all the threads about false gains and how the stock system flows more than a 2.3 even needs i put my stock tube back on and have been running it for about a week. if there is any power difference between the 2 setups its not noticable. i will tell u one thing, without a doubt i was averaging at least 3 mpg better with the 3" diameter manderel bent tube. now im not trying to disprove anyone but i dont know wat to tell ya guys. i will be deffinately be putting my custom tube back on and recomend any 2.3 duratec owner to find some scrap aluminum tube(3") and see for yourself.

[feellnfroggy]

thanks so I guess I won't do anything to my truck considering it would just be wasting money.

Great, we have officially discouraged some dudes dreams of improving the performance of his truck. Im not bashing anyone personally, But I'm gonna have to sit quiet and read from now on. Im blown away by the v6 agenda on here. There is so much performance to be had from the 4 cyl and its totally ignored because everyone thinks the 6 is better. Its similar to the v-8 pushers on the v6 mustang sites. Modding our trucks is supposed to be fun. And to tell the new guys that there are no gains to be had from mods is ludacris. Not to mention against every PROVEN fact out there. Just because gains are not noticed by some of the 'experts' butt-o-meter, doesnt mean they arent there. The manufacturer builds everything for a compromise of emissons and fuel mileage and power. It IS possible to improve.

Good luck with your truck dude.

[jax4bangin]

agreed:icon_cheers:

[Wicked_Sludge]

im not trying to push anything on him. its his truck and he can do what he wants. my goal is to prevent people from wasting money on mods that wont give a noticeable improvement (hes not going to run this thing on the dyno, so whats the point of doing an intake and exhaust if they wont give a butt-dyno-detectable improvement?). the mods that i mentioned WILL improve his trucks power output noticeably and are a good way to spend your cash.

[turbo cat]

cheap is possible with you doing the labor and the learning curve will be higher than unbolt this clamp and put the tube here....the big power is usually foudn in items liek gearing, convertor changes, forced induction, big cams and compression changes.....

[MikeInIdaho]

There's nothing wrong with modifying your vehicle or adding aftermarket parts to the mix. The OP and I have essentially the same trucks, if I'm not mistaken. For example, I've already changed the tires, added a k&n panel filter and am about to have a "race only" magnaflow put on here within the next few days. However, I'm not expecting any kind of significant power increase by using these parts. I'm adding the exhaust (along with the filter) for the sole reason that I like the sound my truck makes with it on (as opposed to stock). I'm not out to win any races, but I do like to drive my truck and modify it to fit my tastes, as I'm sure nearly everyone else on this site does as well.

As far as significant power boosters that I can think of off the top of my head, a JET Performance Module comes to mind. I'm not sure what the numbers are for the 2.3, but I would imagine gains in the 10-15 hp range would be a realistic expectation with this mod. It's not really "cheap" at around $250, but it is a safe and proven way to give the four-popper a little more juice. You could probably have the throttle body machined for a little extra boost as well (not sure if focus TB's work on rangers/B23s or not. From what I hear, the most performance potential on these motors lies in the cylinder head, but that kind of work would be far from cheap.

[GreatWhite]

It was helpful to know that the after market intake/exhaust was not important for any power differences. Because me not knowing obviously might have gone out and spent $400 on something that wouldn't even help me in the end when I could've just not voided intake/exhaust warranty for something stupid that wouldn't make anything better than 3-4mpg. So now I'll just spend it on something that will actually do something to the vehicle.

There is no websites that list anything for 2008 Ford Ranger XL 2.3L, so when going out and buying a chip how do I know that it will plug into my truck? Also, is it essential to get intake/exhaust if you have the chips(due to chip possibly making the engine work harder needing more air and exhaust) or would it still be ok to leave the stock intake/exhaust?

Thanks

[MikeInIdaho]

checkout out www.summitracing.com, they have the JET module for your Ranger. You can search for it by make/model, or simply put in this part number at the top of the page and click search: JET-80727. Summit has it listed for $239.95.

JET states that performance gains can be had with "little to no modification" to your vehicle. I can't imagine there being any issues using it on a stock or near stock setup.

[GreatWhite]

I dont know the diablo-sport is about $370 and it comes with an interface and different downloadable settings to go along with it. Ranger stations guys might want to check it out. They have it for 2.3L/3.0L/4.0L.

Summitracing also has it !

[mongo]

the super 40 pops way to much and the cold air kit

ive had great results on mine

i personaly think we got a bunch of yuppys here

[mongo]

also under drive pullys

about $150 and they say 15 to 25 more hp but on the ranger mabey 10