Doing M5OD Maintenance, what else to do?

locovaca · Dec 29, 2008

Well, my slave cylinder took a shit last week (thankfully in my driveway), so it's time to drop the tranny. Since I have 146k on the original clutch, I'm going to take the time to do that as well (although the clutch seems, to me, to be in good shape).

So right now I'm looking at:

1. Clutch kit from clutch city (comes with slave)
2. New fly wheel
3. Doing some freeze plugs
4. Probably doing the shifter bushings since I'll have it all apart anyway

So my questions are:

1. Is it worth replacing the master cylinder as well? I've seen people recommend it in other threads and others not.
2. Since I have to drop the driveshaft, is it worth replacing the U-Joints? Are those typical wear items to the point that they should be replaced every so often even though I have no problems with them? For $10-15 a joint, I don't mind dropping $30 now if it saves me hassle or a flipped truck 20k down the road.
3. Looking at the Dorman freeze plugs, do you get 3(+) in the kit or do you have to buy 3 individual 555-108's?
4. Anything else while I have it dropped? I just replaced the fluid before all of this happened, so that's already done.

Thanks

MAKG · Dec 30, 2008

Check out your rear main seal and your transmission input seal. Don't forget to transfer the pilot bearing bushing to the new flywheel (if you have one).

The effort to replace the master is almost completely distinct from the effort to replace the slave. You gain almost nothing by doing them at the same time. The master can be replaced without touching the transmission.

Though it will be possible to replace some of the core plugs at the back of the engine, I wouldn't bother unless one looks bad. There still isn't a whole lot of room for a good swing under the tranny tunnel, and you may make a leak where you didn't have one before.

cocoasranger · Dec 30, 2008

I would replace the pilot bearing while you have things apart. Some people suggest replacing the rear engine oil seal; I'm not sure about that. Check the small rubber seal on the base of the shift arm, especially in the accordion like creases for tears or cracks and replace if needed.

I would replace the clutch master due to your mileage. The master, u joints, etc. are all items that can be replaced easily when they give you trouble without dropping the trans, so they are optional.

racsan · Dec 30, 2008

i put over 200K on my '88 ranger with original u-joints, no need to spend money when parts are still good. defintly replace the slave, throw out and pilot bearings. id leave well enough alone with the master cyl and engine core plug. you can have a flywheel resurfaced, you may want to consider having a new ring gear put on if you have alot of wear in one area.

locovaca · Dec 30, 2008

Just to clear it up, the freeze plugs are for the shift rail, not for the engine. Engine doesn't have any problems *knocks on wood.* Thanks for the advice on the master, looks like I'll skip that one. I'm not *wanting* to spend unnecessary money, just not wanting to miss anything that's easily done while I have it out.

The kit at cluch city comes with the pilot bearing, so I will be replacing that. The Fly Wheel is only $60 or so, not sure how much resurfacing would be but for the convenience of just throwing a new one on it's worth it to me.

MAKG · Dec 30, 2008

You can also get "reman" flywheels. Which basically means they have been resurfaced and put in a box. Same convenience, slightly lower price ($30-$40 plus core).

locovaca · Dec 30, 2008

Thanks for the info. So for anyone who has done the Rubber to Freeze plugs on the shift rail holes... Did you need one Dorman kit or three?

racsan · Dec 30, 2008

youll need three. doesnt hurt to use a little loctite when installing, and some r.t.v. over top of it all when done.

rboyer · Dec 31, 2008

And as far as the depth for the plugs, a bolt with a 13mm head equivalent to the ones used for your bellhousing works perfect on the Dorman plugs. It fits right inside the plug and you just drive it in until the washer-head is flush and can't go any farther. Now if you're using the Dana/Clevite plugs you'll need a 12mm bolt because they have a thicker wall. I don't know where you plan on buying your freeze plugs but do NOT order them from rockauto. I ordered 100 of them not too long ago and got 8 Dorman plugs and 74 no-name junk plugs which were too small. And yes that means I was shorthanded 18 plugs to begin with. They re-sent my order and I received 92 more of the generic junk plugs. Your local NAPA should sell the Dana/Clevite version and most likely have them in stock.

locovaca · Jan 3, 2009

Ok, I'll be honest, I'm a relative newbie when it comes to cars/trucks. This is my first clutch replacement, for example

. I got the tranny off today, and thanks to this board I was saved many, many hours of frustration with those damn top bolts!

Several questions:

1. I have the transmission in neutral, I have confirmed. When I turn the input shaft the output shaft seems to freewheel. It turns with the input shaft, but I'm able to stop the turning with my finger while still turning the input shaft. Is that normal? I would've thought that "neutral" meant they were mechanically separated.

2. This thing is dirty as all crap. Is it ok to powerwash? I especially have lots of stuff and old DOT 3 from the leaking slave inside the bell housing.

3. Is there any problem with me taking the top cover off? Just want to take a peak in, it's not everyday I have a transmission sitting in my garage. No gaskets to worry about or anything?

Just a guy trying to learn a little more

racsan · Jan 3, 2009

by all means pull the top cover,the "gasket" is a o-ring seated in a groove in the top cover. it wont be a issue, just be sure youre in nuetral and that the forks align up when you put the cover back on. take a good look at the first gear inside the case on the input shaft side, if its ran low on oil before, this is where you'll see the first signs of damage. as far as washing, use a degreaser and spray away, just dont get any water inside the trans itself. as far as the outout shaft turning while in neutral, the contershaft is always engaged with the input, theres usually enough drag with the syncro rings that cause the output to turn. at least you have a 2wd to contend with, on my 4x i had issues with seperating the tranfer case when i did a trans replacement. and my trans problems were due to low fluid level from before i bought it. i lost 2nd gear altogether one day. and it was in febuary in mid-ohio. cold, long job. and 1,100 for a rebuilt trans wasnt much fun either.

locovaca · Jan 3, 2009

Thanks for the info. The gears all look pristine to my admittedly untrained eye. Never had a problem with it nor any metal fragments when changing fluid so I wasn't expecting anything bad. Now to wait for the parts to get her back on the road!

Doing M5OD Maintenance, what else to do?

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