Help diagnosing engine trouble.

[sweetwaterbroncoII]

Hey guys I need all the help I can get with this one....I was on my way to work today, about a 60 mile drive one way, when after about 30 mins of driving, the engine began making a horrible ticking noise (kind of like a card in the spokes of a bicycle wheel noise) and everytime I would try and accelerate, the engine would bog down....When I got to work and it sat for 30 mins or so, I started it up and it ran just fine....On my way home, after driving it around 30 mins or so it did it again, but then quit after 20 mins or so and it ran fine again...What do you guys think this could be? I just had this 2.9 put in about a month ago or so.:icon_confused:

[Tedybear]

When is the last time it had a full tuneup? Might be a partly clogged injector, FPR starting to give out...ignition problems...Any codes from the "CEL"?

S-

[sweetwaterbroncoII]

When I had the engine put in, I replaced the spark plugs, the mechanic said the wires looked good and he used the distributor from the old engine...I'm just a novice mechanic at best, what is FPR and CEL? Todd

[HndMeDnBroncoII]

Hey guys I need all the help I can get with this one....I was on my way to work today, about a 60 mile drive one way, when after about 30 mins of driving, the engine began making a horrible ticking noise (kind of like a card in the spokes of a bicycle wheel noise) and everytime I would try and accelerate, the engine would bog down....When I got to work and it sat for 30 mins or so, I started it up and it ran just fine....On my way home, after driving it around 30 mins or so it did it again, but then quit after 20 mins or so and it ran fine again...What do you guys think this could be? I just had this 2.9 put in about a month ago or so.:icon_confused:

double check that the engine oil adn filter was changed sounds like the pump me be losing pressure could be the fuel though too (check engine light-cel)
good luck

[Wicked_Sludge]

fpr = fuel pressure regulator

[sweetwaterbroncoII]

I may have found out what the problem is, see if you guys agree.....Distributor module has gone bad....are the symptoms in line with that?

[Wicked_Sludge]

most of the time a bad TFI module wont work at all. but it would hurt ot have the module tested....most auto parts stores can test it for you.

[country0001]

my 2.9 has a ticking noise and I'm pretty sure its the lifters. my mechanic verified it, and added that its a common problem. I'm currently seekig a 4.0 to put in it. Basically the 2.9 is a crap engine

[Wicked_Sludge]

:icon_rofl:

the 4.0 has the SAME weak top-end lube system that the 2.9 has. the 4.0 isnt any better than the 2.9 other than you get more power with your ticking/worn pushrods :icon_thumby:

[fordmandan87]

i work for ford and i concurr that is is a possible oil pump losing pressure

[sweetwaterbroncoII]

Oil pressure gauge is and has always shown good oil pressure.

[Wicked_Sludge]

ive never seen an oil pump give intermittant issues when failing either....:dunno:

i wonder...does this truck have a/c? if so is the a/c compressor functioning properly? maybe im grasping at straws, but im trying to think of something that would make intermittant noise AND power loss....

[sweetwaterbroncoII]

No the a/c compressor was taken off by the previous owner and when I had the new used engine installed the mech didn't put another one on.....I have driven it since it first occurred and it is still running fine....Should I go ahead and change the distributor module?

[Wicked_Sludge]

if you want to...

like i said, it wouldnt hurt to have it tested. usually when the fail, they quite working completely.

[sweetwaterbroncoII]

Is it difficult to change? i would ratehr not pay a mechanic to do it if I could myself.

[HndMeDnBroncoII]

Is it difficult to change? i would ratehr not pay a mechanic to do it if I could myself.

i believe that u need a 5.5mm socket to get thet module out,the modules usually do just crap out but it sounds like it runs fine till it gets to warm so if you got the money change it. besides if it is original its quite old anyways and done its job.
and just because the oil pressure switch works very well doesnt mean there might not be blockage prevent oil from getting through certain pathways.
the dealerships do offer a hot oil engine flush to clean out the engine though

fuel injectors make a noise muck like a valve ticking too
use a long bar and gently put one end to the part u suspect and the other to ur ear then ull find the noise for sure
good luck let us know how it turns out

[sweetwaterbroncoII]

Would cleaning the injectors help? Would Sea Foam do the trick?

[HndMeDnBroncoII]

Would cleaning the injectors help? Would Sea Foam do the trick?
it wouldnt hurt i mean when was the last time any cleaner was put in.
but if u r trying to cure the injector its fifty fifty just think twenty years of plastic exposed tro the combustion chamber they just get worn and noisy over time

[sweetwaterbroncoII]

I have no idea....The engine I bought to put in it is out of a 1986 I believe...Probably never been cleaned...

[HndMeDnBroncoII]

I have no idea....The engine I bought to put in it is out of a 1986 I believe...Probably never been cleaned...

In all honesty sweet if your gonna do work on your own vehicle u should go out and get a mini scanner they are like forty dollars avg and will save u many headaches cause even though the check engine light doesnt come on there might still be codes logged into the ecu. and they might lead u to the problem.the codes can be found in the instruction manual or in the tech librairy. it sounds like once the truck reaches a certain temp it starts to act funny is it during short or long drives the 02 sensor doesnt take over engine control till the engine reaches temp, just another thought

[Wicked_Sludge]

an aftermarket code scanner on an EEC-IV vehicle is a total waste of money. you can pull codes and do basic self tests with a paper clip and only a real STAR tester will do datalogging.

[HndMeDnBroncoII]

an aftermarket code scanner on an EEC-IV vehicle is a total waste of money. you can pull codes and do basic self tests with a paper clip and only a real STAR tester will do datalogging.

yes but as our young friend has said he is still learning so for him starting out a paper clip will be areal pain in his backside.And iwas refering to the aftermarket scanner pulling the soft codes it isnt very often you actually have need to check for the hard codes which of course needs the dealers drb

we could always show up at his house and show how to diagnose properly but its a little to far lol:icon_rofl::icon_cheers:

[Wicked_Sludge]

there arent that many aftermarket scanners that will "talk" to a ford EEC-IV computer....its not like an OBDII scanner.

"hard" and "soft" codes? you mean continuous memory and self test codes? both can be pulled with a paper clip. there are no codes that you cant retrieve with a paper clip. aftermarket scanners are absolutely unnecissary for an EEC-IV vehicle.

[sweetwaterbroncoII]

It has only happened on long drives...if I drive it around town, it funs great...if I get on the interstate to go to work, that is whenit acts up....

[Wicked_Sludge]

could the rattling your hearing possibly be spark knock? that could indicate your timing is jumping forward for some reason (a dizzy or TFI issue).

[sweetwaterbroncoII]

The ticking is constant while the problem is going on....it doesn't increase or decrease with acceleration or deceleration......

[Wicked_Sludge]

those symptoms sure do sound consistant with a drop in oil pressure, like others have suggested. it might be worth your time to varify the oil pressure with an aftermarket gauge just to be sure.

[sweetwaterbroncoII]

Are they hard to install?

[Tedybear]

The only hard thing about an aftermarket oil pressure gauge install? Is where they put the sending unit you'll have to remove and replace with the fitting for the oil pressure gauge "Tube". If you have a set of car ramps? It's probably not to bad. The sending unit on the 2.9's is located just about under the power steering pump. The engine probably has a 2" long (or there abouts) extension on the engine port that has the sending unit screwed into it.

What we did with ours? Was to hit Napa for some plumbing hardware, and we made a "T" coming off the port. One end of the "T" goes to a new sending unit (pretty cheap to replace) The other end goes to the adapter/tube for the physical replacement gauge, and the other end screws into the port itself.

Nickles worth of free advice when installing the tube: KEEP IT AWAY FROM THE EXHAUST AND ANY/ALL MOVING PARTS! :-) If the tube melts or tears? Yer gonna have such a mess.....

S-

[sweetwaterbroncoII]

Thanks for the advice...What would be the problem if it is showing low oil pressure, the oil pump or a bad engine?

[Wicked_Sludge]

if you dont plan on perminently installing the gauge, you can just unplug and remove the factory sending unit for now. then screw the tube for your mechanical gauge into the factory port.

low oil pressure is usually a worn oil pump or bad bearings. what grade oil did you use in the last oil change?

[sweetwaterbroncoII]

I can't recall....10w30 I believe...My dad bought all the parts for me because I hasd just had back surgery prior to having the engine put in....