hopefully someone can help me out

[silicon_ghost]

i have a 1991 ford ranger. it is a manual 4 cylinder 2.3. i bought it as a winter vehicle and recently it quit on me. i started it and let it run for about 5 mins. before i left and when i got down the road into second gear it stuttered and died on me. when i try to start it it wants to turn over but acts like it isnt getting fuel or spark. i hear the fuel pump kick in and i know it has gas. i checked to see if it is getting spark at all and i am getting it on the passenger side but not on the drivers side. i am thinking maybe the coil pack on the drivers side might be shot but would this cause the truck not to start even though it is getting spark on the passenger side? the only other things i can think of would be the crank sensor and the ignition module. any help would really help me out. thanks!

[Dave R]

Click here (http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?p=24240#post24240)

Some relevent info for you, if you haven't found it already.

[silicon_ghost]

i seen that. his truck is actually starting, mine isnt. just cranks like it wants to. i was talking to another member on here and he narrowed it down to either the fuel filter is clogged or the timing belt jump a couple teeth. i don't know much about timing belts but he told me how to check to see if i am getting fuel pressure. pushing the pin down on the valve located on the fuel rail. every time i push it down, it spits fuel out. i don't know how much fuel should come out signifying a good or bad fuel filter.

[Dave R]

Well, after re-reading your original post, it's a possibility that the timing belt has snapped. That can be fairly easily checked by carefully prying back the timing belt cover and checking the belt for tension. 90% of the time these belts don't jump teeth, they just snap.

If you have a reasonable spray of fuel coming out of the Schrader valve, even if only for a short time, then the engine should be getting enough gas to the injectors to at least start the engine. If the fuel filter were at fault, it should start but not be able to move far, or fast, under it's own power.

[silicon_ghost]

i checked the timing belt and i don't see any snappage, but when i crank it over, it doesn't move so i think it snapped. whats the chances that i can just install a new timing belt and everything will be fine? i wasn't going fast at all. didn't hear any loud bangs or clunks, didn't even hear a snap.

[RobbieD]

Chances are good that a new belt will get you fixed up.

[silicon_ghost]

thats what i was hoping.:icon_hornsup: i barely got into second gear before it stalled.

now how hard are the timing belts to install? i have never done them before and i have the hanes manual and it sounds pretty hard.:icon_confused:

[smokey]

not a hard jb at all really. sounds worse than it is.

[Dave R]

You most likely did not damage anything. I've lost two belts while out on the road, both times it was nothing more than an inconvenience.

On the old board we had a link to a DIY web site that had good step by step directions with good pictures to back it up. I'll see if I can't find it.

I've been meaning to put together a small page on a belt change for the tech pages, one of these days I just might get around to doing it.

[Dave R]

Hmm, found the webpage...

timing belt change (http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/shows_wkm/episode/0,2046,DIY_14348_26874,00.html)

Hope your not on dial-up, like me......ZZZZZZZZZZZ.

In the text they say it's a Chevy truck, but it's definitely a Ranger that they are working on in the pictures.

:icon_cheers:

[silicon_ghost]

thanks so much for the help guys. hopefully i can get her up and running soon. will keep you posted.:pray:

btw. whats the good parts to replace while i have all the stuff taken apart? i know on my car when i got the timing belt replaced, i also had the water pump replaced.

[Dave R]

Usually, the water pump and thermostat, as your right in there with them once your down to the timing belt.

[silicon_ghost]

just a little update. got into it real good and found out the timing belt didnt actually snap, it lost about 13 teeth all in a row so it wasnt catching on the smaller sprocket.

but now i am stuck at a dead end. i cant figure out how to get the crankshaft pulley off. i got the four bolts off of there but it still doesn't want to come off. i thought thats all that held it on but it looks like the big bolt on the middle might. i tried to loosen it, but all it wants to do is turn the pulley. do i have to lock the pulley in place somehow?

btw, i looked in my haynes manual and it's no help as far as the pulley is concerned and the link to the DIY website just jumps to the harmonic balancer.

[skippy]

just a little update. got into it real good and found out the timing belt didnt actually snap, it lost about 13 teeth all in a row so it wasnt catching on the smaller sprocket.

but now i am stuck at a dead end. i cant figure out how to get the crankshaft pulley off. i got the four bolts off of there but it still doesn't want to come off. i thought thats all that held it on but it looks like the big bolt on the middle might. i tried to loosen it, but all it wants to do is turn the pulley. do i have to lock the pulley in place somehow?

btw, i looked in my haynes manual and it's no help as far as the pulley is concerned and the link to the DIY website just jumps to the harmonic balancer.

put it in gear and set parking brake.

[silicon_ghost]

every time i made a revolution on the crank pulley, the truck lurched at me. as for the parking brake, whoever the previous owner was, ripped the parking brake out.

[skippy]

thats not good,perhaps someone standing on the brakes?

[RobbieD]

When I did mine I used a 1/2" breaker bar, the end resting on the frame rail, and a quick bump of the starter to break the bolt loose. Then you might need a puller on that pulley / harmonic balancer.

[skippy]

dang robbie,thought i invented the breaker bar/starter bump.ever break a socket?

[silicon_ghost]

that works? even without a timing belt on? the pulley turns clockwise right? so would i need the breaker bar under the frame rail? what if i don't have a breaker bar? any other ways?

so many questions!!!:icon_confused:

[skippy]

that works? even without a timing belt on? the pulley turns clockwise right? so would i need the breaker bar under the frame rail? what if i don't have a breaker bar? any other ways?

so many questions!!!:icon_confused:

yes,it can work,standing in front of engine,place breaker bar and socket on the bolt,lay bar over to your right agains't frame,w/engine in neutral,bump it over by quickly tapping key.another method,get a electric impact drill and apropriate socket.you should be able to rent one if need be.hold on tight because they can get away if your not carefull.the first method uses starter to turn flywheel which turns the crank.good luck,and please be carefull.

[RobbieD]

Using an impact would be great, but I don't remember there being room unless the radiator's out, and then I'm not sure if the core support would be an issue or not. The breaker bar works like a charm, and by no means did I figure it out by myself. When my belt broke a couple of years ago, I searched the old TRS forums and there was a bunch of posts on the subject. It's an accepted way to pop the crank bolt loose; just use common sense setting it up and be very careful like skippy said.

[skippy]

for clarification,pulley turns clockwise,bolt loosens counter clockwise.this is not reverse threads.breaker bar to the right on top of frame when bumping,right?

[silicon_ghost]

i'll see what i can do. the first thing i did was take the radiator out so that shouldn't be an issue.

[RobbieD]

No, I don't think it's reversed thread. Your description, skippy, about laying the end of the bar on top of the right-hand frame rail matches my memory (cut me some slack, please; it was several years ago!).

[Dave R]

for clarification,pulley turns clockwise,bolt loosens counter clockwise.this is not reverse threads.breaker bar to the right on top of frame when bumping,right?
It's a 'normal' thread. If you mean, breaker bar sitting on the top of the driver's side frame rail, then yes.

[silicon_ghost]

had a question again. is there a way to get the timing belt off without removing the crank pulley and harmonic balancer? the bolt is giving me a hell of a time and winter is coming to fast! it looks like i might be able to get the belt off and get the new one on but i don't know if this has been done and how would i time the lower sprocket?

[Dave R]

You can do it without removing the hub but, that requires bending the belt guide, which I wouldn't recommend unless your sitting on the side of the road.

You time the lower sprocket by rotating the engine to TDC. Normally I just use the pointer on the lower sprocket and aim it in the general direction of where the TDC mark on the cover would normally be, sort of in the 1-2 O'clock position.

[jet_doctor]

Hi there,
I had the same problem when I did my timing belt. I ended up getting it off by pulling out a spark plug and feeding a length of clean nylon rope into one of the cylinders. After that it was easy, just make sure that you're on the compression or power stroke so you don't bend any valves when you pull on your ratchet. Far less scary than the starter/breaker bar trick. Hope this helps.

just a little update. got into it real good and found out the timing belt didnt actually snap, it lost about 13 teeth all in a row so it wasnt catching on the smaller sprocket.

but now i am stuck at a dead end. i cant figure out how to get the crankshaft pulley off. i got the four bolts off of there but it still doesn't want to come off. i thought thats all that held it on but it looks like the big bolt on the middle might. i tried to loosen it, but all it wants to do is turn the pulley. do i have to lock the pulley in place somehow?

btw, i looked in my haynes manual and it's no help as far as the pulley is concerned and the link to the DIY website just jumps to the harmonic balancer.

[silicon_ghost]

is the crankshaft pulley held on by the bigger bolt in the center or should the pulley come off when i remove the four smaller ones?

[silicon_ghost]

Hi there,
I had the same problem when I did my timing belt. I ended up getting it off by pulling out a spark plug and feeding a length of clean nylon rope into one of the cylinders. After that it was easy, just make sure that you're on the compression or power stroke so you don't bend any valves when you pull on your ratchet. Far less scary than the starter/breaker bar trick. Hope this helps.

i'm sorry, i don't understand what you are telling me to do. do i fill the cylinder with the nylon rope? i have never heard of doing this before.

[jet_doctor]

I'm not sure what your crankshaft pulley looks like, but mine only has one big bolt in the middle. If your problem is that the truck lurches when you try to loosen it...by filling one of the combustion chambers with rope you'll restrict the cranshaft's ability to rotate allowing you to get a good pull on your ratchet/breaker bar without the truck moving on you. The only pulley that I see with four bolts is the water pump pulley. Am I mis interpreting?

[jet_doctor]

It doesn't take alot of rope just enough to keep the piston from moving through top dead center.

[silicon_ghost]

i'm trying to get to the harmonic balancer so i can take it off and put a new belt on but i cant get the big bolt in the center off. the way mine looks is it has four smaller bolts that i thought held the pulley on. but there is also the big bolt in the middle. what i don't know is if the pulley is held on by all the bolts or just the four. when i removed the four smaller ones, it wouldn't pull off. it might be on there pretty good and just needs some persuasion but i don't want to go beating on the pulley if i need to take the center bolt out.

[jet_doctor]

If I remember correctly the balancer can stay in. Its been a while, in fact mine is due for a pre-emptive replacement. The crankshaft pulley has to come off, so the big bolt has to come off. The small bolts for the balancer stay in. The rope trick will allow you to lock the crankshaft to get a good pull on the big bolt to loosen it. After that the pulley should pop offf with some gentle tapping/prying. I didn't need a puller but you may. Hope this clears it up.

[Dave R]

The small bolts hold the pulley onto the hub, they do not have to be removed. Though once you get the center bolt out you can use two of the smaller bolt holes for harmonic balancer puller.

The 'rope trick' is fine but BE CAREFUL and make sure that the cylinder that you put the rope into is on the compression stroke. If it's not, you run a small chance of bending a valve.

[silicon_ghost]

does anyone know what the actual bolt size the bigger one is? i have been using a 22mm and that seems to be it but i didn't know if it was standard or metric.

[Dave R]

Actual thread size or what socket fits?

For the socket, 22m/m is correct.

As for the bolt thread, I'd have to measure one. I don't think anyone has ever asked that.

[silicon_ghost]

i didn't word that right. you answered my question. thanks!

[silicon_ghost]

finally got the crankshaft pulley bolt off!! now just need to get the harmonic balancer off. are there any tricks or important tips i should know to finish this off or is it pretty simple now?

[silicon_ghost]

got the timing belt in. just haven't put it on all the sprockets yet. got the harmonic balancer back on and the pulley. when i set the crankshaft the way it is supposed to go, i take it i line the little notch in the pulley with the little notch on the plastic timing belt cover? right by the notch it says TC. which i take as Top Center. just wanting to make sure i have everything where it needs to go before i start tightening everything down.

[Dave R]

when i set the cranckshaft the way it is supposed to go, i take it i line the little notch in the pulley with the little notch on the plastic timing belt cover? right by the notch it says TC. which i take as Top Center. just wanting to make sure i have everything where it needs to go before i start tightening everything down.
You are correct on both counts.

[silicon_ghost]

before it got dark and started raining, i lined up the two notches but noticed there was a little play left and right. does it have to be perfectly lined up or as best as i can possibly get it?

[Dave R]

What two notches?

Remind me, what year truck are you working on?

[silicon_ghost]

the notch on the crankshaft pulley and there is a notch on the timing belt cover and next to that notch it says TC.

my truck is a 91 2.3L 4 cyl.

[Dave R]

Yes, those two notches get lined up. Point the cam sprocket at it's alignment mark, attached to the rear belt cover. And point the auxillary sprocket anywhere you want, it's orientation is not important for your year.

Slip the belt on, release the tensioner but, don't tighten it down then carefully rotate the engine clockwise, as viewed from the front, two revolutions. If the timing marks still line up, tighten the tensioner and reassemble the engine. If they are off, start again.

[silicon_ghost]

just wanted to let everyone that has helped me know that i got her back up and running. drove her for about 10 miles on the highway and on some back roads and was hitting 65 at times and runs the way it did before the timing belt failed.

i also want to thank everyone that has helped me through out this whole thing and also wanted to say how great this site is. will be recommending anyone that has a ranger and needs advice.

[skippy]

hey,thats great!glad you are back on the road.

[Dave R]

No worries on the help, that's what we are here for, no thanks are needed, though it is nice to hear once in a while.

:icon_cheers: