still no fire on passenger side

[masterlink]

well i replaced the driver side coil.this was recomended by sevensecondsuv.still same problem.no fire on passenger side.tack still reads below 2000 when it screws up.could it be the left side coil ? or should i replace the ign module.at first i thought the used coil was bad so i bought a new one. same codes.18-34-88.same problem.it is a 1991 RANGER 2.3. i used an ODB-2 scanner to get the codes.

[Jspafford]

We are going to need more info on the vehicle, year, model, engine size, etc.

[MAKG]

It's a 1992 2.3L according to his profile.

Multiple codes often suggest grounding issues, though I would strongly suggest running down pinpoint tests for those codes. Try the library for the Mitchell books.

FYI, it's wrong to state any code without the test it came from. There are three tests that produce codes, and the actions are not the same for each.

[Sevensecondsuv]

...no fire on passenger side...

Oh, maybe I got dislectic reading your original post, I thought you said driver's side wasn't firing. I'd try replacing the coil on the side that isn't firing. The coils are interchangable so you should just be able to swap them. And I'd definately go for junkyard parts, they are cheap enough to "throw" at a problem. I'd hate to see you go paying for new parts and then not solve anything.

Again, those were the exact same symtoms as mine, (except opposite sides, I see), and a new iginition coil was the fix for mine.

If the new coil doesn't fix it, I'd start looking at wiring.

[masterlink]

I replaced both coils.same problem still. im thinking module.it is a two stage module.the second stage is triggered by the EGR.about 2 seconds after start up.one of my codes is a code 33-EGR valve opening not detected.i cleaned the connection yesterday and put dialectric grease on it.so far so good.but i have only started it up from dead cold 2 times since.yesterday and this morning.my other code is an 88.loss of duel spark input.and 33.eratic idm signal to prossesor.already checked all the wireing.at least i have two spare coils now.and that driver side coil was a M/F to change.

Doug.

[Sevensecondsuv]

...that driver side coil was a M/F to change...

I hear ya there!

Well your problem seems to be a little deeper than mine was. I had the "no egr valve opening detected" code as well. I replaced the whole valve with a junkyard part and it solved that too.

If you end up changing the module just make sure you put plently of the gray lube stuff between it and the intake manifold and tighten those mounting bolts to spec. I tried replacing my icm before I tried the coil and was surprised to find that it would only crank, but not start. After more attention to making sure things were mounted well (and therefore grounded well), it fired right up.

[Explorin94]

The EDIS module may be your ultimate problem. Find someone who has another 2.3 or a 4.0 and swap it between the trucks. It is located in front of the battery on the doghouse....if it isn't there move the battery and look in that area. Swap them first to m,ake sure that is your rpoblem as they are a little pricey.

[Sevensecondsuv]

Just a heads up:
The EDIS module (actually DIS on 1991 MY, and called ICM, for ignition control module) is mounted on the intake manifold on 2.3s. See a few posts above, he's already looking at it.

[Dave R]

Though I don't remember where this one started, if the passenger's side coil doesn't fire, how are/were you starting the truck, or are you? The driver's side doesn't fire on crank.

[masterlink]

the driver side fires just fine.the truck starts right up.its when its almost warmed up that the tack drops.and the passenger side stops fireing.the truck still runs fine rubber in second no problem.it just doesent idle vary smooth. the tack stays below 2000.and the passenger side doesent fire.once completly warm.the tack jumps back up.idle is fine and it fires on both sides.it is a 1991 2.3 ranger

[Dave R]

So basically, the truck works OK when it's cold but starts to act up once it warms up?

Then change the ignition module.

[masterlink]

No. it acts up when its warming up.once its warmed up good it runs fine.

[Dave R]

That would be a non-typical module fault but not outside the bounds of the issues that a bad module can exhibit.

You could do a crude test of that one by heating up the module, say with a hairdryer, prior to a cold start.

[masterlink]

never thought about that.i believe i might just try that in the morning.whats really strange.is if i unplug the vacum line to the EGR and plug it off.it really doesent do it hardly at all.:no2:

[Dave R]

Hmm, in that case, is the EGR control solenoid leaking? Perhaps it's enough to open the EGR and throw off the fuel mixture until the O2 sensor heats up and starts giving a good signal. Where after the computer adjusts but, the problem with that is the computer should learn that trick in short order and compensate it's cold start fuel enrichment maps to suit the new situation.

But, then again, that wouldn't explain a non-firing coil pack. Only a bad module will do that. One word of clarification,and I'm repeating myself, the driver's side does not fire on crank. IF your saying that the passenger's side is not firing after the engine starts then your still looking at the ignition module.

[masterlink]

Well.i tryed the hair dryer trick and it worked.but now the weather has turned cold up here in the mountains.it only fires on the passenger side when i put the hair dryer on the module.SO.i went and bought a new module today and installed it so far so good.im going to take it out in the morning for a drive just to make sure.thanks you to everyone for the feedback and info.i may be a newbie.but im not going anywhere.and thank you Dave for your info especialy.

[Dave R]

Hopefully when you installed the module you used a liberal amount of dielectric gease. The intake manifold acts as the heat sink for the module, without a goodly amount of grease to help transfer the heat from the module, they tend to live a short life.

[masterlink]

Yes.i greased it down like a baby with diaper rash.:)

[masterlink]

Truck is definitly fixxed.ben driveing it for a couple of days know.no problems.it was the module.:yahoo:

[Dave R]

A bad module is the last thing that I like to blame because it is one of the most difficult to definitively test. But, when you've eliminated everything else......

Glad it worked out for you.

[Sevensecondsuv]

Glad you got it fixed...