View Full Version : EB Coils - think I found the unicorn
littleredrangerhood
09-26-2007, 12:06 AM
After about 8+ months of researching, giving up, and then researching again I think I have found coils that will work for my 88 ext cab ranger. BC Broncos part # 51-17200. Here are the details. They are 6.5" w/ winch lift coils for 66-77 EB. They are 23.5" free length and the owner of the company finally figured out that they are 249 # rating. Only downside is that they are $160 ($195 w/ shipping) a pair.
I know the 249 # is not the 300-320 which is optimal for an normal supercab ranger but I took the bed off my truck and am in the process of moving the rear axle forward by 16" and removing a total of 24" of frame. So, in my head, there isn't much different between my truck and a B2 besides that little extra bit of cab. I know Todd is running XJ coils which are even softer in his B2. Also, this is a trail only rig so streetability isn't important.
I currently have about 4.5" susp lift and a 3" body lift. However, I am going to cut the BL down to about 1/2" (just enough room for my doubler I am putting in). I am hoping these springs will give me anywhere from 6-9" of lift.
Part of me wants to go for it despite the significant financial risk. You know, the whole "no guts, no glory" thing. Anyway, what do you more experienced guys think about the chances of these springs working?
4x4junkie
09-26-2007, 01:56 AM
I wouldn't run more than 4" of lift on the suspension unless you're prepared to do some pretty major steering fab (and even at that, 6" is about the practical limit). I would keep the bodylift on it. The extra space a body lift gives between the frame & body can come in handy for the t-case doubler, and even for little things like extended shock mounts too. (I have a 2" BL on my BII and I still had to beat up the floor a bit to make room for my doubler. The rear floor on a S/C Ranger doesn't seem like it'd be any better for clearance, but not sure).
249 sounds a little soft, but I think it could work if you get your steering setup correctly (especially with shortening your WB a bit).
That price doesn't seem unreasonable either (the way steel prices have shot up, I'm kindof surprised coil springs aren't normally over $200 now).
I would say give 'em a try and see how it goes. :icon_welder:
CopyKat
09-26-2007, 06:55 AM
Yes they will give you about 9" of lift. The coils will sit at 19" loaded.
I've done too much calculation work with EB coils. However those springs would work perfect for me. So if they don't work out for you let me know.
BTW I have WH 5.5" EB coils on right now. They work good and flex well but They are too short for my TTB's design
Yes the coils im running are stupid soft. I believe softer then Junkie and Will but not sure. Maybe the fact that they are 4.5" coils not 3" has something to do with it.
As for saying only a trail rig, are you talking about mine or yours? Mine is trail only and yes for the way I have it set up I would never want to DD it, it would just suck! Are you planning on making yours a trail only rig? If so then who cares about street ability right.
The Rangers floor has more room compared to that of the BII for the doubler. After making the BTR I put about the same amount of body lift on the Ranger cab as I had on the BII thinking I was going to have to munch the floor a little as I had to on the BII to make the doubler fit. Wasnt the case, had way more room to work with. As it is right now I have a few inches of space between the floor and doubler. Maybe an Ext cab is differant from a standerd cab on this though?
CopyKat
09-26-2007, 08:32 AM
I'd have no Problems DDing them. Since the Canadain Dollar is so strong now I may just get a set of the coils and get that much closer to my goal.
littleredrangerhood
09-26-2007, 10:18 AM
To answer some questions:
1. My truck is a trail rig only.
2. I have the superrunner steering system already and was thinking of modding it (extending it downward) like you did Junkie.
3. I already have F250 shock towers and RS5012 shocks up front
4. I have a friend with an Ex w/ a doubler in it and he has NO BL, but he did have to beat the floor a little bit so I think I will be good by going down to a 1/2" BL for that little extra bit of clearance. However, I would wait until after the doubler is installed to determine how much BL I can take out.
5. I am making front and rear square tube steel driveshafts since I am putting the doubler in anyway, so whatever the lift I get from the coils doesn't matter. Ideally I am shooting for 7.5-8". I would move down to the 6" drop bracket holes at that point.
6. If I get too much lift for my liking I can always throw in some EB coil buckets to take some off.
I am shooting for a little less lift than is on my other Ranger (see pic). I bought it for a $1000 off of a guy in my offroad club. I am happy to list the specs on that if anyone is interested.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/2475000-2475999/2475556_133_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/2475000-2475999/2475556_134_full.jpg
CopyKat
09-26-2007, 10:34 AM
My recomendation is to get the EB coil buckets off the bat. 9" lift is WAY too much. More than the Superrunner will accomodate. Modded or Not. I'm at 5.5" lift and that to me is too much, unless it's a mud only truck.
I've got F150 buckets that are 3" taller than the RBV buckets. This puts my coil at a loaded height of 17 and I have a 1" spacer under the coil adapter.
littleredrangerhood
09-26-2007, 12:47 PM
I think I would try them in the stock buckets before doing the EB buckets. If the stock buckets work then there would be no sense in buying the EB buckets plus just throwing EB buckets on from the get go does me no good since I wouldn't have anything to compare it to.
The reason I want that 7.5" of lift is because I like the amount of wheel-well gap I have now but want to ditch the BL so my fram will be higher off the ground thereby giving me a better approach and departure angle. I COULD cut the bumper I made but I have plans of using that to tie a exo cage into. I would like for the bumper to be right up against the body like the camo ranger shows unlike the black one with the gap.
CopyKat
09-26-2007, 01:15 PM
Higher than 6" lift on a TTB wheeler is pointless.
Whatever floats your boat. I'm here saying don't do it. Sure others will say the same.
littleredrangerhood
09-26-2007, 05:01 PM
Right now I have 4.5" susp and 3" BL (6" SJ springs using 4" holes). I want to ditch the BL and make up for it in susp moving to the 6" holes. That would give me 7-7.5" of susp lift as my target. I already have long enough shocks. As long as I modify the the superrunner steering system I have and use square tube steel driveshafts . . . then what is the issue? Is 1-1.5" going to make that huge of a difference in stability? It would be no different than a 8" SJ kit except way more flex.
BTW, I am running home made extended radius arms too (about 12" longer than stock). The fenders are already cut out to the max and I am running 35" SXs.
littleredrangerhood
09-26-2007, 05:11 PM
Ok, a few things I forgot to mention.
There are different length coils available. The 6.5" w/ winch = 23.5". The 6.5" = 23". The 5.5" w/ winch = 22.5". And so on. They should all be the same coil rating though if I understood the company owner correctly.
BC broncos says on their site that you can put the springs in, see if you like where they are sitting, and then if they are too high or too low then they will work with you to get you the right ones. I would try adjusting it by using the EB coils first since they are cheaper than all the shipping charges but there is a failsafe.
CopyKat
09-26-2007, 08:11 PM
I still think you should stick with a 5.5" coil. They will sit higher than the 6" SJ coils will.
I've done enough digging around with EB coils, to know what's gonna work with TTB. Your heading the path JohnnyU did. May as well just SAS already, instead of stabbing in the dark. And go full width, cuz your going to be too tall/tippy for any trail riding.
littleredrangerhood
09-26-2007, 10:02 PM
Well I ordered the 23.5" long springs today. We'll see how much lift they give with the stock buckets but in reality I probably will wind up using the EB buckets. It will be simple enough since I already have them cut up and the F250 shock towers in place.
I am eventually going to SAS the truck with full width 1 ton's, 6" SJ ranger leaf springs front and rear, sitting on 38.5" SXs but I want to wait until I have a garage to do all that in. I am going to move the front axle forward a couple inches and go full hydro at the same time.
However, part of me wants to hang on to the old TTB susp for a while and show all the solid axle guys what a Ford can do with the right springs. The TTB really does get such a bad rep because of the stiff springs available for them right now.
4x4junkie
09-26-2007, 10:39 PM
Those coils are going to sit WAY lower than 19" on that thing.
Do you know what the frontend (sprung weight) is on it?
Taking a guess that if it's around 2400lbs sprung, those coils are going to sink down to about 16.5" or so on that truck.
(there's another discussion about coils currently taking place here (http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2985)
Maybe some of the figures there might help you out as well.
JohnnyU
09-27-2007, 12:15 AM
You're heading the path JohnnyU did.
I was looking for something that would give me 6" of lift. Initially, I was looking for 7-8" longer than stock so that I could use a different coil bucket. Upon further research, I decided it might be easier to use a shorter coil and use a spacer if I didnt get the 6" out of it.
As of late I couldn't care less about the Ranger. I've had new opportunities surface, as well as different financial ventures. I've also had a general loss of interest in the sport. I may be back in the future, but for now I'll leave you with this bit of advice.
Scrap the idea trying to get the TTB to flex at 6"+ lift height. It's a worthless suspension from the get-go, In my opinion. It's half solid axle, half "IFS". The two styles are designed for entirely different terrain. if you want a "big" lift, you have to make a sacrifice, no flex with the TTB or flexy solid axle.
As I said, my next rig will definitely have a solid front axle. No more turd polishing, or fawking around with something that still has little to no aftermarket support.
Statements in this post are merely my opinions which have been formulated by several year's experience with different vehicle setups. If you don't like what I said, fawk off.:thefinger:
littleredrangerhood
09-27-2007, 12:17 AM
I do not know the weight. I am hoping that the springs do squat a good bit. That is why I opted for the longest available length. If I have too, I can run a 1" spacer if I am still not happy with the amount of lift it gives.
Really, I don't care what lift these suckers give me as long as it is more than the 4.5" I already have. What I am really interested in is the extra flex I'll gain.:headbang:
JohnnyU
09-27-2007, 12:22 AM
I do not know the weight.
Then you really have no idea what springs you'll need. Knowing the weight on the spring is the only way to determine the rate. You know the compressed height and the free length, the only other variable is the spring rate.
littleredrangerhood
09-27-2007, 08:43 AM
Then you really have no idea what springs you'll need. Knowing the weight on the spring is the only way to determine the rate. You know the compressed height and the free length, the only other variable is the spring rate.
Yeah, I am kind of shooting from the hip on this one but I am confident I can make it work. I am also making some educated guesses based on the setup of my truck and the setup of some of the other guys running similar or even softer springs.
CopyKat
09-27-2007, 08:59 AM
Those coils are going to sit WAY lower than 19" on that thing.
Do you know what the frontend (sprung weight) is on it?
Taking a guess that if it's around 2400lbs sprung, those coils are going to sink down to about 16.5" or so on that truck.
(there's another discussion about coils currently taking place here (http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2985)
Maybe some of the figures there might help you out as well.
For starters I doubt they are 250 Lb/in rate. Getting a 23.5" long coil into place with a stock RBV bucket is going to be a challenge. I believe Todd had to use a spring compressor to get his in. Bobby walter needs a compressor to get his Jeep coils inplace. I remember having a tough time getting the 19" SJ coils in place.
JBG superflex 6" coils for the 79 Bronco reported to only settle to 21" and they are 26" with a 200 Lb/in rate. That's on a Big Block truck too.
This guy needs to do more reading on the subject. But I guess it's too late now since he ordered the coils already. Pirate4x4 has lots of info on this subject.
FWIW Shawn I'm at around 2300 Lb's on the front of my B2. My 5.5" coils only settle 4.5". Total truck scaled in around 4500Lbs
I looked at getting the EB coils to fit in a stock bucket and it fits like ass. Most guys that do SAS with EB coils end up changing out the buckets to EB buckets anyway. You can space the coils from there if you need more height.
BTW if the coils don't work out for you I may take them off your hands for $160 Shipped
Good Luck
CopyKat
09-27-2007, 09:04 AM
Yeah, I am kind of shooting from the hip on this one but I am confident I can make it work. I am also making some educated guesses based on the setup of my truck and the setup of some of the other guys running similar or even softer springs.
Stabbing in the dark................Good luck with that. Could get expensive, real fast. Next thing you know you'll be one of the TTB haters spouting SAS is the only way to go.
FWIW your not breaking new ground
Again good luck
littleredrangerhood
09-27-2007, 01:19 PM
Again, I am not stabbing in the dark. I researched this very thoroughly and you are wrong about Pirate4x4. There is not a lot of USEFUL info on that board concerning the EB coils in a TTB. I have put countless hours into finding a coil that is as close as possible to the ideal one for my application. As far as I know, I am the first person to actually get the spring rate info on the EB coils from BC Broncos. The owner told me that he just had it calculated himself not very long ago.
As far as your spring's compression versus how these springs will compress, you are mixing apples and oranges here. The BC coils are linear and your WH coils are progressive.
At this point, I cannot know for certain whether or not I will use the EB coil buckets. I am going to use a fail-proof strategy called 'trial and error'. Either they work with the stock buckets, or they don't. Simple as that.
BTW, I don't have any major problems with the TTB besides lack of flex, but the TTB can't be blamed for that. I will never become a "TTB hater", heck, I have put quite a bit of money into the thing because I don't want to give up on it. I like a challenge that way. However, I have been planning to do an SAS anyway in a couple years, moving up to 1 tons and 38.5" tires. In the meantime, I am still interested in trying to get the TTB to be the best it can be. Who knows, if this works maybe I won't do the SAS for another 5-10 years or something since the TTB definitely has nostalgic value for me.
All that being said, if these coils turn out not to work for me then I will strongly consider selling them to you for the $160 shipped. That seems fair enough to me.
4x4junkie
09-27-2007, 11:35 PM
I welded a piece of 1/8" strip (3/4" wide) to the coil bucket right at the top where the coil wants to protrude out a bit. This adds a bit more support to the coil and almost eliminated all the coil bow with the Jeep coils. The EB coils being the same dia, I think it'd work well with them too.
Getting a 23.5" long coil into place with a stock RBV bucket is going to be a challenge. I believe Todd had to use a spring compressor to get his in. Bobby walter needs a compressor to get his Jeep coils inplace. I remember having a tough time getting the 19" SJ coils in place.
Not if you have the proper lift on it (proper space between the axle and bucket).
If the coil is so long that you can't get it in easily, then it's not the right one for your suspension (if the axle can't drop down enough, you won't be using all of the coil's travel anyway).
FWIW, I'm just finishing up putting some 22" long coils into mine (SJ #JC60F). I raised the buckets up 2" and they easily dropped right in, with maybe an inch to spare. My axle brackets are 2.5", so this would effectively be the same as a 4.5" lift.
.
If you don't like what I said, fawk off.:thefinger:
So what the hell crawled up your ass?
samsonitesamsonite
09-27-2007, 11:50 PM
Junkie could you get some pics of your recent work?
We all know johnny screws his new dodge, fawk him.
For starters I doubt they are 250 Lb/in rate. I believe Todd had to use a spring compressor to get his in.
Nope, As Junkie said if I had to do that I wouldnt be using all the coil I have. With my rad arms the beam will drop farther then the coil will go. The coil is the limiting factor in the down travel not the beam binding.
CopyKat
09-28-2007, 06:58 AM
Not if you have the proper lift on it (proper space between the axle and bucket).
If the coil is so long that you can't get it in easily, then it's not the right one for your suspension (if the axle can't drop down enough, you won't be using all of the coil's travel anyway).
FWIW, I'm just finishing up putting some 22" long coils into mine (SJ #JC60F). I raised the buckets up 2" and they easily dropped right in, with maybe an inch to spare. My axle brackets are 2.5", so this would effectively be the same as a 4.5" lift.
I agree. This is a 21" long coil. The lower bucket has a 1.5" spacer under it.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/front%20susp/front22.jpg
The beam will drop further. The rotors were sitting on the ground.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/front%20susp/front29.jpg
Right now the front mounted shock is my limiter. Once I get the 14" travel one in place It should then become the spring. One day when I have the $$ and the right parts come along.....................
The front shocks were stopping any further movement. damn 12" stroke shocks.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/posershots/biv87.jpg
JohnnyU
09-28-2007, 11:41 AM
We all know johnny screws his new dodge, fawk him.
Actually, the 5" exhaust isn't big enough for me to screw it. :rolleyes:
littleredrangerhood
09-28-2007, 12:25 PM
That would be like throwing a hot dog down a hallway.:icon_rofl:
JohnnyU
09-28-2007, 12:33 PM
That would be like throwing a hot dog down a hallway.:icon_rofl:
That sounds like a personal problem.....
rickcdewitt
09-28-2007, 12:40 PM
I agree. This is a 21" long coil. The lower bucket has a 1.5" spacer under it.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/front%20susp/front22.jpgwhat make and model of spring is this?whats your compressed height from top of spring to bottom? thanks.
JohnnyU
09-28-2007, 12:48 PM
So what the hell crawled up your ass?
Nothing. However anytime anyone says anything against the TTB Suspension, they are labeled a "hater", and their opinions are argued over. I made several statements that MANY here would not agree with. I'm not going to argue my opinion with anyone. I've come to the realization that in many cases, but especially mine, TTB just is not the answer.
CopyKat
09-28-2007, 12:49 PM
what make and model of spring is this?whats your compressed height from top of spring to bottom? thanks.
The red Spring is a WildHorse Rockcrawler 3.5" lift EB coil. Compressed they sat at around 15"
The Blue ones are Wildhorse Rockcrawlers 5.5" lift EB coils. Compressed they are 17"
littleredrangerhood
09-28-2007, 02:37 PM
That sounds like a personal problem.....
Only if YOUR woman is that sloppy:taunt: My girlfriend doesn't have that problem. Don't get the wrong idea, this is all in good fun.
JohnnyU
09-28-2007, 06:56 PM
Only if YOUR woman is that sloppy:taunt: My girlfriend doesn't have that problem. Don't get the wrong idea, this is all in good fun.
She'd probably seem loose if you tried it.:idiot:
4x4junkie
09-28-2007, 09:12 PM
I agree. This is a 21" long coil. The lower bucket has a 1.5" spacer under it.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/front%20susp/front22.jpg
The beam will drop further. The rotors were sitting on the ground.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/front%20susp/front29.jpg
Right now the front mounted shock is my limiter. Once I get the 14" travel one in place It should then become the spring. One day when I have the $$ and the right parts come along.....................
The front shocks were stopping any further movement. damn 12" stroke shocks.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/posershots/biv87.jpg
So why were you saying you'd have a hard time getting it in and need spring compressors, then? :icon_confused:
Junkie could you get some pics of your recent work?
I should have some probably middle of next week ;)
Nothing. However anytime anyone says anything against the TTB Suspension, they are labeled a "hater", and their opinions are argued over. I made several statements that MANY here would not agree with. I'm not going to argue my opinion with anyone. I've come to the realization that in many cases, but especially mine, TTB just is not the answer.
Well, when you go making such generalized comments like "Screw it, you're just wasting your time polishing that turd, its worthless from the get-go", what are you expecting from those of us who it works perfectly fine for?
I've never said a TTB suspension was for everyone, but just because you became frustrated with some part of it that you couldn't figure out, doesn't mean nobody else can figure it out either.
I do agree putting these things together would be SSOOOO much easier if we had a whole slew of nice aftermarket parts to do it with.
But I also think that if no one ever took on a challenge devoid of "aftermarket" parts, we wouldn't have any solid axle either, or even a vehicle to put over it. We'd still be hoofin' it around like the cavemen did. :no2:
JohnnyU
09-28-2007, 09:25 PM
I say tomato, you say tomahto.
Short version is TTB isn't the end-all suspension. Everything reaches a level where it cannot perform any better no matter what parts are bolted to it. In my opinion, I reached that point for the type of terrain my truck sees. The TTB is a mud plow, as much as I like trails, I see more mud than anything. It's as simple as that. And since I didn't want to spend the time to find a good coil that would work with my truck, and have decided to go solid axle, that makes me a hater. :rolleyes:
rangerhood - Do whatever it is that you want. I suggest that you do all the work required to find the "right" coil instead of just guessing. I got tired of ordering one spring and getting something completely different from Sean....
littleredrangerhood
09-28-2007, 10:34 PM
rangerhood - Do whatever it is that you want. I suggest that you do all the work required to find the "right" coil instead of just guessing. I got tired of ordering one spring and getting something completely different from Sean....
Well, the springs are on their way. I will definitely post up my results.
CopyKat
09-29-2007, 10:11 AM
So why were you saying you'd have a hard time getting it in and need spring compressors, then? :icon_confused:
I can easily fit a 24" long coil in my setup maybe even longer. Again the upper coil buckets I used are F150 TTB buckets. And they are 3" taller than the RBV bucket.
If he plans to use the stock RBV bucket that is 3" less room he has to work with.
23" long coil is pretty long.
Without proper seats top and bottom the coil bow is going to be visible.and the nature of the TTB you'll get more the taller you get.
I'm interested to see what comes of this. I may be wrong and manybe those springs are what he needs, but I don't think he will be happy with the results. If he hasn't done the math first.
The front travel I have is pretty even right to left.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/posershots/biv90.jpg
This is with a 235-360 coil
4x4junkie
09-29-2007, 08:06 PM
I can easily fit a 24" long coil in my setup maybe even longer. Again the upper coil buckets I used are F150 TTB buckets. And they are 3" taller than the RBV bucket.
If he plans to use the stock RBV bucket that is 3" less room he has to work with.
I'm not sure I see the difference between your buckets being higher, and his axle brackets being taller, it still opens up the same amount of room to put the coil in. :huh:
If I had 4.5" lift axle brackets and stock (unmodified) RBV buckets, I'd still have the same amount of room for the coil as I do now (about 24" at droop).
Your lower cups being raised up like that reduces the space available for the coil though.
.
I say tomato, you say tomahto.
Short version is TTB isn't the end-all suspension. Everything reaches a level where it cannot perform any better no matter what parts are bolted to it. In my opinion, I reached that point for the type of terrain my truck sees. The TTB is a mud plow, as much as I like trails, I see more mud than anything. It's as simple as that. And since I didn't want to spend the time to find a good coil that would work with my truck, and have decided to go solid axle, that makes me a hater. :rolleyes:
Dude... the simple act of just swapping to a solid axle doesn't make you a hater (at least not in MY opinion anyway).
Someone who comes on here and starts bashing on it with no good reason and generalizing that it's junk (often showing their ignorance by spreading misinformation about it in the process) is who would normally get branded a "hater".
You said you do more mud than anything, and that the TTB plows too much in it. I think that's a very valid reason to prefer the solid axle for it's slimmer profile (why not go portals even?). Certainly that wouldn't be near as much of a concern for those who don't see the mud as much though.
Anyway, it sounds a bit like you're thinking of dumping your Ranger entirely (not just swapping the axle). I seem to recall you putting a lot of time and work into that truck (cage, sliders, etc) so it's a bit sad to see you getting rid of it, but good luck on whatever you decide to do.
:icon_cheers:
JohnnyU
09-29-2007, 08:31 PM
Anyway, it sounds a bit like you're thinking of dumping your Ranger entirely (not just swapping the axle). I seem to recall you putting a lot of time and work into that truck (cage, sliders, etc) so it's a bit sad to see you getting rid of it, but good luck on whatever you decide to do.
:icon_cheers:
Yea, I'm done with the Ranger. It's listed for sale, but I may just end up chopping it up and parting it out. I'm sure you remember my post over on BII.org about it. I'm tired of battling with the rust and general erosion of the truck. The body isn't solid enough to swap to another chassis, and the chassis isn't worth enough to swap a body onto. The effort required to swap engines/transmissions (the 4cyl isn't going to cut it anymore), and axles just isn't justifiable into something that needs so much work. It's a great rig and is very capable, but it's just not going to cut it for the plans I have for a rig. I'm not leaving, I'm just going dormant for a little while.
I'll keep you up to date on progress I make with my next project....:D
CopyKat
09-30-2007, 03:33 AM
I'm not sure I see the difference between your buckets being higher, and his axle brackets being taller, it still opens up the same amount of room to put the coil in. :huh:
If I had 4.5" lift axle brackets and stock (unmodified) RBV buckets, I'd still have the same amount of room for the coil as I do now (about 24" at droop).
Your lower cups being raised up like that reduces the space available for the coil though.
The lower bucket is only1.5" higher. the upper is 3" Right now I can fit a 24" coil easily without the lower rise. 21" easily with the rise.
23" with rise may be tight. 23" without rise will be fine. Now lower that with the RBV bucket......Spring compressor time. i'm only using the 4" pivots. I could go more with the 6" pivots but I don't want to. 5.5" lift is more than enough.....if not too high.
The 6" F150 superflex coils I've been looking at are 300 Lb/in and 24" free. They are linear coils with one more loop than the WH coils I run now.
littleredrangerhood
09-30-2007, 11:13 AM
The 6" F150 superflex coils I've been looking at are 300 Lb/in and 24" free. They are linear coils with one more loop than the WH coils I run now.
I'll believe it when I see it. What manufacturer?
rickcdewitt
09-30-2007, 12:06 PM
with all these springs getting thrown around its hard to keep track of whos got what.what springs do you all have installed right now-how much lift-how soft/streetable are they.if i could do a little thread jacking also what do you thinks needed for about 4" and closer to 300lb in than 200 lb in.i have double shocks with duff buckets(i'll cut them up if need be).i want more flex and street manners(at least where it don't scare me to drive on highway)
littleredrangerhood
09-30-2007, 01:39 PM
with all these springs getting thrown around its hard to keep track of whos got what.what springs do you all have installed right now-how much lift-how soft/streetable are they.if i could do a little thread jacking also what do you thinks needed for about 4" and closer to 300lb in than 200 lb in.i have double shocks with duff buckets(i'll cut them up if need be).i want more flex and street manners(at least where it don't scare me to drive on highway)
I currently have 6" SJ coils up front but since I have a super cab I am running the 4" pivot holes which gives about 4.5" of lift. I can look at my list later this afternoon to give you some other coils' ratings and lengths. There will definitely be a trade off between flex and street manners when moving to a softer coil. Personally, I don't know if I would be changing the front coils and buckets in my truck if it was still on the road or a DD. There is a LOT of liability involved when you start to mess with suspension and such. However, I admit that I was running on the road with no sway bars and homemade extended radius arms for about a year before I retired the truck to offroad only but I drove the truck less than 3,000 miles in that year.
JFA_Spyderman
09-30-2007, 04:32 PM
Here is the link to the coils (i believe) that Copykat is reffering to. I am looking at them as well. I emailed JBG and they said the rate is 300#.
http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-23209_super_flex_coils__4_inch_lift.htm
littleredrangerhood
09-30-2007, 05:17 PM
I have those springs marked down as being 190 lb/in. Unless they changed the rating since the last time I checked, either they gave me the wrong number initially or you are talking with someone at JBG that is getting confused.
Part #23210 are 300lb/in but they are 27" long free length.
rickcdewitt:
I don't think there is really any spring out there that is going to give only 4" of lift with a rating of 300lb/in but here are some numbers for you to consider.
JBG #13202 320lb/in 18.5" free length
JBG #23202 320ln/in 18" free length
JBG #33510 progressive (unknown values) 21" free length
Tom's broncos SKU:6808 5.5" lift; 25" free, 19" compressed (under bronco)
these are progressive rate - 1st = 180, 2nd = 315
Maybe the 3.5" WH progressive coils would work for your needs. Personally, I like to stick with linear rate coils.
Mutant Pony
09-30-2007, 07:54 PM
My 5.5 coils hit the frame way before the axle hits the bumpstop. Rather than spending big money on coils that are way to big, just move your buckets down a little. Make use of the wasted spring.
I have a sas on my MUD truck as well, I'm not gonna say anything bad about a TTB though. My offroad truck has a TTB and is a lot more fun to drive on the trails then my mud truck.
4x4junkie
09-30-2007, 08:25 PM
with all these springs getting thrown around its hard to keep track of whos got what.what springs do you all have installed right now-how much lift-how soft/streetable are they.if i could do a little thread jacking also what do you thinks needed for about 4" and closer to 300lb in than 200 lb in.i have double shocks with duff buckets(i'll cut them up if need be).i want more flex and street manners(at least where it don't scare me to drive on highway)
I had Rancho 3" XJ/ZJ springs on my BII.
They are rated at 240lbs
They gave about 2" lift initially (12.5" compressed), but sagged out over time (my BII is around 1500-1600lbs SPRUNG weight on the frontend).
I just the other day swapped to 6" Skyjacker XJ coils. These are sitting at about 5" lift on my BII (a bit over 16" compressed).
IIRC, they were claimed to be rated at 237lbs, but I think they may be a tad stiffer than the Rancho springs (maybe because the Ranchos had gotten all sacked out).
It seems like the SJ coils could work nicely for a 4" lift on a non-Supercab Ranger with a 4.0L, they seem like they'd support it.
I have those springs marked down as being 190 lb/in. Unless they changed the rating since the last time I checked, either they gave me the wrong number initially or you are talking with someone at JBG that is getting confused.
Part #23210 are 300lb/in but they are 27" long free length.
rickcdewitt:
I don't think there is really any spring out there that is going to give only 4" of lift with a rating of 300lb/in but here are some numbers for you to consider.
JBG #13202 320lb/in 18.5" free length
JBG #23202 320ln/in 18" free length
JBG #33510 progressive (unknown values) 21" free length
Tom's broncos SKU:6808 5.5" lift; 25" free, 19" compressed (under bronco)
these are progressive rate - 1st = 180, 2nd = 315
Maybe the 3.5" WH progressive coils would work for your needs. Personally, I like to stick with linear rate coils.
JBG (Deaver) did change the design on some of their springs probably about two years ago.
I have found a lot of published ratings to be questionable though. Putting the coil into a press or something with a scale under it might be the only reliable way to see what a specific spring has (short of knowing what the exact weight of a vehicle with "_______" springs on it is).
JFA_Spyderman
09-30-2007, 10:43 PM
Yo,
yeah littleredrangerhood, your right, i had my part numbers off. This is the spring i was thinking of.
http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-23210_super_flex_coils_6_inch.htm It is a bit longer, but if i went with it, i was planning on using EB or 150 upper coil mount.
littleredrangerhood
09-30-2007, 11:18 PM
Yeah, I thought that spring was just a little too long. I figured would rather come up short in height using EB buckets and then use a spacer than be too high even with the EB buckets.
CopyKat
10-01-2007, 09:58 AM
I have those springs marked down as being 190 lb/in. Unless they changed the rating since the last time I checked, either they gave me the wrong number initially or you are talking with someone at JBG that is getting confused.
Part #23210 are 300lb/in but they are 27" long free length.
Or the other way around.
The Old JBG 6" superflex (Deaver) 78-79 Bronco coils were 200 Lb/in rate and 26.25" free length.
JBG (Deaver) did change the design on some of their springs probably about two years ago.
I have found a lot of published ratings to be questionable though. Putting the coil into a press or something with a scale under it might be the only reliable way to see what a specific spring has (short of knowing what the exact weight of a vehicle with "_______" springs on it is).
Yes JBG did change the 6" lift coil this past spring. When I called about them they had none of the old ones in stock and were expecting the new ones that week.
The new 6" lift Superflex coils were bumped to 300 lb/in with a 24"free length.
rickcdewitt
10-01-2007, 02:50 PM
i have stiff 4" duff 2wd b2 springs in my truck now with 3" duff axle brackets.almost anything will give it more flex its too bad the zj's diden't have a heavier v8 spring about 290-300#'s.my truck has a long wheelbase,wide stance,sway bars most of the time,and the double shocks so it should stay pretty stable with eb or f-150 stuff and raised buckets it sounds like.lets keep it up guys this is one of the best coil threads i've seen.
rickcdewitt
10-01-2007, 02:58 PM
My 5.5 coils hit the frame way before the axle hits the bumpstop. Rather than spending big money on coils that are way to big, just move your buckets down a little. Make use of the wasted spring.
I have a sas on my MUD truck as well, I'm not gonna say anything bad about a TTB though. My offroad truck has a TTB and is a lot more fun to drive on the trails then my mud truck.
so is the pony the mud truck or trail truck?theres a guy around here who has a 4x4 67 GTO with the trunk lid and rear window removed to make room for a 4' wood bed in back. 455 makes a hell of a mud truck engine.kind of a shame though it used to be a nice goat:dntknw:
littleredrangerhood
10-01-2007, 03:06 PM
Or the other way around.
???? I said "Unless they changed the ratings of the springs since the last time I checked, . . . ". How can there be a "other way around". As far as the numbers you are reporting, why haven't they updated the site about them? I have those springs (#23209) as being 190 lb/in and 24.5" free length. Those numbers are from the Spring and they don't match any of your numbers. BTW, those springs are even more expensive than the BC broncos ones I ordered. You know, stabbing in the dark can get real expensive real quick:icon_thumby:
rickcdewitt
10-01-2007, 03:25 PM
i wonder what the spring manufacturers would say about just choosing the rate you want and then cutting the spring to height on a band saw with water or oil cooling to save the temper?i don't know much about springs but it seems that might save everyone a lot of trouble if it was practical.:stirthepot:
littleredrangerhood
10-01-2007, 03:33 PM
It doesn't quite work that way. When you cut coils you change the rate. There is some equation in the tech library about it.
CopyKat
10-01-2007, 03:58 PM
???? I said "Unless they changed the ratings of the springs since the last time I checked, . . . ". How can there be a "other way around". As far as the numbers you are reporting, why haven't they updated the site about them? I have those springs (#23209) as being 190 lb/in and 24.5" free length. Those numbers are from the Spring and they don't match any of your numbers. BTW, those springs are even more expensive than the BC broncos ones I ordered. You know, stabbing in the dark can get real expensive real quick:icon_thumby:
Nope you said
"either they gave me the wrong number initially or you are talking with someone at JBG that is getting confused."
I haven't ordered springs yet. Unlike some.:rolleyes:
:pray:
I guess I know nothing.
rickcdewitt
10-01-2007, 05:02 PM
It doesn't quite work that way. When you cut coils you change the rate. There is some equation in the tech library about it.hmm i guess each loop has so much compression and the more loops the more travel=softer rate.it would be interesting to see what 8" or 10" XJ springs minus a few coils would behave like.so long as you were using a linear rate coil you could trim coils until its right.haha more guesswork:thefinger:
littleredrangerhood
10-01-2007, 05:25 PM
Nope you said
"either they gave me the wrong number initially or you are talking with someone at JBG that is getting confused."
I haven't ordered springs yet. Unlike some.:rolleyes:
:pray:
I guess I know nothing.
Dude, go back and read the F*cking post you quoted from. I prefaced that comment with the line, "Unless . . . ". The last time I edited that post was a couple minutes after I posted it yesterday so I haven't changed it. AND, the guy even admitted that he made a mistake and was talking about the wrong springs.
I don't know what you think you know or actually do know. However, I KNOW that I started this post trying to offer some useful information for other people that might be interested in using the BC bronco springs like I plan to. I am not looking for gratitude and I am certainly not looking for the approval of some wannabe know-it-all j@ck@ass like yourself. All you have done so far is say how sh*t is not going to work and I have know clue what I'm doing.
So, in light of that fact, let's try something here. Let's see if you can figure this out. What do Junkie, Todd, JohnnyU, and I all have in common? I admit that I am less knowledgable than some of the guys on the boards that have been running the TTB for the past >6 years but at the same time you're not talking to some stupid newbie here buddy, I know my way around a RBV.
CopyKat
10-01-2007, 07:08 PM
:taunt:
Whatever Dude
I guess the fact that I've run EB coils for a year now means I don't know anything. Maybe my name says alot about me, maybe not. Clearly you don't know me. The three guys that you mentioned know me. If my first impression comes off as an Ass Hole then that's too bad.
My two suggestions still stand
1. Use the EB buckets off the bat.
2. 8" lift on a trail truck is "Stupid"
littleredrangerhood
10-01-2007, 07:21 PM
Whatever Dude
I guess the fact that I've run EB coils for a year now means I don't know anything. Maybe my name says alot about me, maybe not. Clearly you don't know me. The three guys that you mentioned know me. If my first impression comes off as an Ass Hole then that's too bad.
My two suggestions still stand
1. Use the EB buckets off the bat.
2. 8" lift on a trail truck is "Stupid"
It's not your first impression that makes you seem like an @sshole, it's your consistent pessimistic, condescending posts that do. I might indeed take your suggestions in the long run but first I have to see what happens when I put the coils in. However, I know that I want at least 6-7.5" of lift because that is what I have now with the Susp and BL combined.
JohnnyU
10-01-2007, 07:49 PM
The three guys that you mentioned know me. If my first impression comes off as an Ass Hole then that's too bad.
I do know Joel, and as much as I hate to, I must say he is VERY knowlegable in RBV's and is often arrogant because 99% of the time, he's right. :thefinger:
Oh, and by the way, 4.5" of suspension lift and 3" of body lift will perform VERY differently than 7.5" of suspension lift.
littleredrangerhood
10-01-2007, 09:01 PM
Wait a second, you mean CopyKat=Joel H. Why the hell didn't you say so man? Last time I knew you were going by Forest or something like that. Here, I thought you were just some punk ass guy I had never heard of before ripping on my sh*t. That changes my whole attitude now. Well, except the fact that you still come off a little arrogant even if it is deserved.:thefinger::)
McDerry
10-03-2007, 02:24 AM
I do know Joel, and as much as I hate to, I must say he is VERY knowlegable in RBV's and is often arrogant because 99% of the time, he's right. :thefinger:
Oh, and by the way, 4.5" of suspension lift and 3" of body lift will perform VERY differently than 7.5" of suspension lift.
He's also the same guy that asked me which end of a shock goes up...
...in reality 99.9% of the time I'm right, I just find out about the argument after the fact. Take that Joel :flipoff:
McDerry
10-03-2007, 03:01 AM
Well I might aswell add my two cents again and bring the value to 4 cents.
Now lets bear with this with an open mind, as I know alot of people don't think outside the box let alone any further away then this site or there local wheelers.
Now lets assume I want a suspension that can get me all kinds of travel. Now I can only have 6 inches of upward wheel travel cause I want to keep my fnders and still have this streetable (otherwise you might aswell build a buggy). Now Were gonna take all the variables out of the equation, except for the weight of the truck and the spring rate of A coil (any given coil) till we find one that gives us the upward wheel travel we desire(we have to take in account how much the spring settles with just the trucks weight) SO we may end up with a coil, any coil, that compresses 6 so inches when the truck is in a level position and another six inches at full stuff. We don't care about the free length of the said coil.
But I want 4" of lift aswell. So, bigger space, and a better coil bucket on the axle, something liek joel's one but deeper for more coil support, I'd probally weld in two pieces of short pipe in it to twist the coil into to hold it in place. But your gonna want all kinds of down travel out of this setup to keep some tire on the ground and to keep biting. So we leave the top of the coil free and build a self centering coil bucket on the frame.
At this point the drawback is unsprung weight on the dropped tire relative to the sprung weight of the truck. But that can be adjusted, skidplates, axle trusss, big beefy tires in addition to the entire sprins will add unsprung weight And things like body panel removal, interior downgrades, etc of fat trimming will remove sprung weight from the truck.
So how far are you guys willing to go??
CopyKat
10-03-2007, 06:58 AM
Well I might aswell add my two cents again and bring the value to 4 cents.
Now lets bear with this with an open mind, as I know alot of people don't think outside the box let alone any further away then this site or there local wheelers.
Now lets assume I want a suspension that can get me all kinds of travel. Now I can only have 6 inches of upward wheel travel cause I want to keep my fnders and still have this streetable (otherwise you might aswell build a buggy). Now Were gonna take all the variables out of the equation, except for the weight of the truck and the spring rate of A coil (any given coil) till we find one that gives us the upward wheel travel we desire(we have to take in account how much the spring settles with just the trucks weight) SO we may end up with a coil, any coil, that compresses 6 so inches when the truck is in a level position and another six inches at full stuff. We don't care about the free length of the said coil.
But I want 4" of lift aswell. So, bigger space, and a better coil bucket on the axle, something liek joel's one but deeper for more coil support, I'd probally weld in two pieces of short pipe in it to twist the coil into to hold it in place. But your gonna want all kinds of down travel out of this setup to keep some tire on the ground and to keep biting. So we leave the top of the coil free and build a self centering coil bucket on the frame.
At this point the drawback is unsprung weight on the dropped tire relative to the sprung weight of the truck. But that can be adjusted, skidplates, axle trusss, big beefy tires in addition to the entire sprins will add unsprung weight And things like body panel removal, interior downgrades, etc of fat trimming will remove sprung weight from the truck.
So how far are you guys willing to go??
Most of that may work fine for a Solid axle but on a TTB it's hard to add unsprung weight in the right spot. Lead or water in the tires is about the most effective.
Your uncaptured coil is an OK idea for a Solid axle again..................OK it's stupid to start with.
TTB needs that spring pushing down on it or you'll have next to no weight on that tire=Useless. May as well Just three wheel it.
For my lower bucket I do have a piece of pipe I have to 1/4 turn the coil into. But the height of that bucket needs to be low. If it's high then the coil bow will be hitting the sides of the coil. It makes an awfull sound.
Here is where I think your .1% wrong, McDerry!:thefinger:
McDerry
10-03-2007, 12:27 PM
I'm Not wrong Your trucks just to damn fat. Face it you've turned a 3400lbs rig into a 4500lbs rig, when you should have made it into a 2800lbs rig, but thats just the nature of the beast.
Oh By the way:
35" tire would hold over 340 pounds of water, about the same as what your one inch of compressed spring would be placing on the tire.
So other then its a mod happenning more commonly outside north America, and us being americans have these large bloated rigs, whats the real downside??
On another note:
How is this icon 'family' oriented other then the potential to produce families? :hottubfun:
JFA_Spyderman
10-03-2007, 01:31 PM
Yo,
At the equipment rental yard i work at, most all of our tractors are about 70% calcium (sp?) filled. This is to better distribute the weight, otherwise you pickup a load of gravel with the front end and the bucket stays there and you lift the tractor off the ground.
One downside with filled tires is its going to be harder to stop, and (im not 100% on this) wouldnt you loose some floation in mud?
Oh and McDerry, i think you are right. I dont see a practical application for this avatar.:hottubfun:
McDerry
10-04-2007, 01:26 AM
Oh and McDerry, i think you are right. I dont see a practical application for this avatar.:hottubfun:
Apparently someone got there shits and giggles out of seeing smileys ****ing in a hottub, but hey to each there own...
4x4junkie
10-05-2007, 10:30 PM
Junkie could you get some pics of your recent work?
Here ya go.
I cut the bucket across the middle, and welded in a section of 2" x 1/8" CR steel strip, formed into the same shape as the bucket itself.
I then welded the whole thing to the side of the F-250 shock bracket.
You can also see where I added the piece of metal at the top to support the coil better from bowing out.
Next pic shows the height difference between the old Rancho coil, and the new SJ one. The wire is also thicker on the SJ coil (0.66" vs. 0.62")
In checking to make sure the axleshaft wasn't binding up on anything, I had to widen the beam window a bit more, as well as trim down the radius arm bolts a bit where they protrude into the beam (you can see the shaft is all the way at the top of the window in the pic).
Last one is of it back together (gained almost another inch of height in the process. Now I'm probably gonna have to figure out how to get the rear up another inch also :icon_twisted: , maybe the front will settle in a little).
JFA_Spyderman
10-06-2007, 10:24 AM
Yo,
wow, Junkie, thats pretty cool. So when you cut and reweled the coil bucket, was that for the purpose of just being able to fit a longer coil in there, or more for reinforcement?
What are the specs on the new coil you got? Did you remove all your washers when you changed the coil? I assume it was a SJ XJ coil...
I also see you are using your faithful wood blocks again
I have heard good things about offroad design's zero rate add-a-leaf, you might look at that if you are only want to add an inch in the rear. It's looking good man! Keep up the good work.:icon_thumby:
4x4junkie
10-06-2007, 08:54 PM
Yo,
wow, Junkie, thats pretty cool. So when you cut and reweled the coil bucket, was that for the purpose of just being able to fit a longer coil in there, or more for reinforcement?
What are the specs on the new coil you got? Did you remove all your washers when you changed the coil? I assume it was a SJ XJ coil...
I also see you are using your faithful wood blocks again
I have heard good things about offroad design's zero rate add-a-leaf, you might look at that if you are only want to add an inch in the rear. It's looking good man! Keep up the good work.:icon_thumby:
I posted the specs earlier in the thread, but here you go again (too lazy to look back where it was + the server's being a bit slow right now):
Skyjacker # JC60F (pair)
5.5" O.D.
22" free
12 turns (11 full-dia. + 1 small turn)
0.66" wire
Currently they sit between 16-16.5" under my BII (approx 1600lbs sprung weight up front).
I modded the buckets primarily just to get the longer coil in there, yes (I needed new coils anyway, so I went for the longer ones mainly to have the working range of the coil be a smaller percentage of the coil's total length. I figure they might hold up a bit better that way, time will tell).
I'm still hoping the front might settle down a bit though, although if the SJ springs are of the quality I think they are, that may not happen.
I've got some old long-leaf add-a-leafs laying here I could try on the rear (pulling out a stock (less arched) leaf for the AAL, shouldn't stiffen it up too much, if at all).
samsonitesamsonite
10-06-2007, 09:19 PM
how is the alignment with those 2.5" drops?
4x4junkie
10-07-2007, 11:15 PM
The bushings currently are set for about -1° of camber correction (both sides), leaving about 0.5° positive at the wheels (vehicle unloaded). The axlebeam pivots are almost 2" above the hub centerline.
With the Rancho coils, I originally had it set up where the bushings were dead on 0° for camber. As they sagged with use, I added probably over an inch of washers on one side (half-inch on the other) to keep it at the same height.
I added probably over an inch of washers on one side (half-inch on the other) to keep it at the same height.
Was the side with the most washers the passenger side? Ive noticed after having my beams out agian that the pass side is about 10" shorter then the drivers. On my setup I have about 1/2" to 3/4" more spacer on the pass side beam to make the two sides level.
littleredrangerhood
10-08-2007, 09:49 PM
Here is an update. I got the springs. I ordered JBG EB coil buckets as well as the stock upper coil spring retainers and they are on their way. I ordered lower Ballistic Fab coil spring retainers and they are on their way. I am going to make a short lower bucket using some 5.5" diameter pipe and seal the deal with the spring retainers. I am going to mod the upper buckets a little bit by welding a curved piece of plate steel arching from one side of the bucket to the other side. This, along with the lower coil bucket, will be to help keep the coil from bowing out too badly. I am going home this weekend so I will be sure to post up pics of my progress. Hopefully, I will get the front lift all squared away and then I need to turn my attention to finishing the frame chop/bob and setting up shackles to match the lift height of the front.
Running project total: ~$340
Cost breakdown:
$200 for springs
$100 for EB coil buckets
$20 for upper coil spring retainers
$20 for lower coil spring retainers
Good thing is that my girlfriend bought the coil springs and EB buckets for me for our 2 year anniversary. Last year's anniversary present was my Warn diff skid for the 8.8. Last year's Christmas present was the F250 shock towers. A woman who is willing to buy truck parts for presents is definitely a keeper in my eyes :)
JohnnyU
10-08-2007, 10:04 PM
Did you at least test fit the springs to be sure they are going to work?
4x4junkie
10-08-2007, 10:16 PM
Was the side with the most washers the passenger side? Ive noticed after having my beams out agian that the pass side is about 10" shorter then the drivers. On my setup I have about 1/2" to 3/4" more spacer on the pass side beam to make the two sides level.
It was the passengerside, yes. :icon_confused: I was literally on the very last thread of the stud with the retainer nut (AND had another ¾" of washers UNDER the hex nut of the stud as well). There was probably over 2½" of washers stacked up on that side :no2: (about 1½" on the D-side)
(originally there was about ¾" of washers on the p-side, about ½" on the d-side. Now I have no washers at all (both sides) :D )
littleredrangerhood
10-08-2007, 11:50 PM
Did you at least test fit the springs to be sure they are going to work?
No, I am having all this stuff shipped home. I am still at school. I am going to do all the measuring before I start to tear into the truck. Right now, all the parts are brand new and I could sell them/return them to recoup some of my money if this whole thing doesn't work. I am operating on a little bit of faith and the fact that I won't take failure as an option. Call me stupid or whatever else you want to but I am willing to make the financial sacrifice. Besides, if this whole thing doesn't work, then it simply moves up my plans for SAS with 1 tons.:)
Bray D
10-22-2007, 01:11 PM
update?
littleredrangerhood
10-22-2007, 11:05 PM
I posted up in the RBVs under construction section.
Here is a link.http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4208
At this point I have everything for the project. Over Thanksgiving Break I should be able to tear into the front and start installing the new coils/buckets. I am going to redo the extended radius arm mounts at the same time and have them mount to the frame instead of to a crossmember I made out of box steel. Finishing the rear takes precedence though so who knows how far I will get. I should be able to have this thing completely finished over Christmas break including new driveshafts and a doubler if it ever gets here.:annoyed:
littleredrangerhood
11-28-2007, 06:51 PM
Update:
Underestimated how much the EB coils would squat so instead of lifting the front 2" more (total of 6.5") they lowered the front .5-1". It didn't help that I raised the EB coil buckets 2.5" up the frame rail as opposed to mounting the bottom edge flush with the bottom of the frame. Sooo, the truck has a pretty good rake to it right now especially since I made the rear shackles longer on purpose with the intention of cutting them down once I knew the exact amount of lift the front was getting. Anyway, I still need to make the front lower coil buckets/mounts so I am going to build them so they give 2.5" of lift. Its either that or coil spacers. I am definitely going to be taking out the 3" BL when the suspension is all wrapped up. I still have to redo the front radius arm mounts too. Here are some pics of how the truck is looking now.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/2475000-2475999/2475556_152_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/2475000-2475999/2475556_153_full.jpg
The rear still needs a bit of work. Still have to finish the spare tire mount and gas tank retention system, hence the ratchet straps.
All that will have to wait until Christmas break.
rickcdewitt
04-04-2008, 11:47 AM
so the bc broncos #51-17200 gave 5"-5 1/2" lift in the end?
littleredrangerhood
04-04-2008, 04:00 PM
If I had not raised the coil buckets up 2.5" then the bc bronco coils would have netted between 5.5 and 6.5" of lift.
If you want mine I will sell them to you since I am using leaf springs up front for my SAS. They only have a couple runs on them. PM me and we can work out a price.
rickcdewitt
04-04-2008, 06:35 PM
you only needed the raised buckets because the early bronco upper perches were also raised right?
littleredrangerhood
04-04-2008, 09:36 PM
No, I thought I needed to raise the buckets because the EB coils were so long and a number of people told me that raising the buckets would make it so I would only net 6" of lift but they squatted more than expected. If I hadn't raised the buckets then they would have been the perfect lift height. Problem was that I welded the one bucket on and it was all cut up to fit over the steering bulge in the frame so I just said F*ck it and went with the SAS.
Hardwareman
04-05-2008, 03:21 AM
This is a good coil thread guys!
I'll try to apply this knowledge to my 2wd. Thanks
Allen
rickcdewitt
04-05-2008, 08:36 AM
If I hadn't raised the buckets then they would have been the perfect lift height. axle perch was raised 2.5" because the frame perches are raised 2.5" right?sorry to keep asking but in the thread it looks like you raised both the frame and axle perches
JFA_Spyderman
04-05-2008, 10:26 AM
axle perch was raised 2.5" because the frame perches are raised 2.5" right?sorry to keep asking but in the thread it looks like you raised both the frame and axle perches
Yo,
lol, I made that same mistake to on this thread (http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4208). I thought they were spacers on the axle, but they are just large buckets. The coils go all the way down inside.
madmax401
04-05-2008, 11:18 AM
I think doing the sas would be the better choice as they said before. hey .....who am i anyway ? i'm a first timer at this and i made a lot of miscalculations.....but , i am learning a hell of a lot here at TRS. the guys in here are freak'n awesome with their willingness to help us out by stearing us away from their previous experiences / mistakes :) . im in the process of f150 stuff right now and a d44 on my 88 supercab ,anything that i find that might be helpful to you i will definatley share . with out these guys ..........i would never have ventured the road of sas and 351 swap.
good luck on your sas, and keep us posted.
littleredrangerhood
04-05-2008, 12:21 PM
axle perch was raised 2.5" because the frame perches are raised 2.5" right?sorry to keep asking but in the thread it looks like you raised both the frame and axle perches
Ok, I understand what you are asking now. I made lower coil buckets out of 6" OD tube steel. The lower buckets "raised" the lower mounting location of the coil a little bit but not much. Their main purpose was to provide a mounting surface and locate the spring, not really to raise it.
rickcdewitt
04-06-2008, 11:05 AM
yeah i was a little confused since in post 81 you say you raised the upper perch 2.5" and then in post 13 of your frame shortening thread you say you raised the floor of the lower bucket 2.5" also to compensate.
littleredrangerhood
04-06-2008, 01:19 PM
yeah i was a little confused since in post 81 you say you raised the upper perch 2.5" and then in post 13 of your frame shortening thread you say you raised the floor of the lower bucket 2.5" also to compensate.
When I first put the springs in I just had the coil sitting directly on the arm (no lower coil bucket) so it was actually lower than stock since there was no lower ranger style coil mount. The coil buckets were ~2.5" higher than that so in the end it was probably only about an inch higher than stock.
If I was at home I would take some pics of the buckets I made since it is easier to see and understand than for me to explain it verbally.
91rokkrawler
04-12-2009, 02:05 AM
diggin up this thread. i have 5.5" drop brackets from superlift (i'll gusset them later). the stock coils that came with the lift (superlifts 5.5" coil) gave me the height i kinda wanted but then again, i need a LOT more flex to be happy with it. the EB coils you used rangerhood netted 5.5" lift correct? they give a lot of flex?
i have an explorer 4 door with the 4.0L of course so keep that in mind.
vBulletin® v3.6.8, Copyright ©2000-2009, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.