8.8 swap


stevenf

15+ Year Member

Joined
Jun 11, 2008
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Tomorrow Im going to a salvage yard to pick up a 8.8 from a 91-01 explorer. This is somewhat of a budget build so I plan to take the axle with the best gear ratio(Ill upgrade to disk brakes later if I have to). Hopefully I can find one with 4.10's if not 3.73's will be fine. There are 18 explorers to choose from so my chances sound good.
With this axle, I was thinking about changing the fluids, greasing up the wheel bearings, relocating the spring perches and bolting it up. Would you recommend changing out the axle bearings or do you guys usually just do what I first mentioned and bolt it up?
 
Just curious how your gunna grease up the wheel bearings?...

They soak in the axle fliud. Same fluild as the ring and pinion.
 
Must be built differently then my Bronco II. Everytime I would change the brakes, I would take the bearings off and grease them.
 
Must be built differently then my Bronco II. Everytime I would change the brakes, I would take the bearings off and grease them.
Not on the rear axle you didn't...
 
Your absolutely right. I thought they were built the same way. I still have alot to learn.
I just picked up a 8.8 from a 93 explorer. It has 3.73's in it. Thats the best ratio I could find.
What do you guys usually do? I am going to relocate perches, change fluid and paint it to look all pretty. do you guys usually replace axle bearings or just fix it as you go...???
 
when i got my 1992 8.8 the bearings were fine, this is what i did. cleaned the diff out and inspected gear, got crome cover since the stock one was composit, pinion seal was good, put new brakes on cleaned her up and painted.
 
I took the diff cover off and drained out the fluids. Everything looks brand new, no rust, no chips. Do you recommend cleaning out all of the old oil and starting new or just leave what doesnt drip out on its own? Anything you used to get it out without removing the diff?
Also, the differential has that S shape plate in the middle, isnt this limited slip?
 
That S spring would mean its is limited slip. I usually just hose it out as best as I can with a can of brake clean and let it dry. You don't have to get it all out of there unless its really nasty or full of water.
 
I pulled the tag off of it and it says 3L73 which means 3.73's with traction lock. I looked into the traction lock and it is labled as a limited slip diff. I then read more detail on what it does and it sounds like it does the same as a detroit locker. Whats the difference?
 
Trac lok is just the name for the LS, it uses a spring and clutches, lockers use a positive locking action.
 
Ive read that the trac lock gets even torque to both wheels but transfers the torque to one wheel on turns. Lockers do the same. What am I missing?
 
It uses clutches and a spring in an open diff to make it limited slip, clutches slip in many off-road situations and will then act like an open diff, all lockers have some form of positive locking and will spin both wheels at the same speed when locked or in the case of an automatic locker when throttle is applied.
Comparison video of LS vs locker I made.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-lydlwgiW6Y
 
Was the front of either of thoughs locked?
 
I would change the wheel bearings, I would bet that they are stock, and it is one less thing to be worried about. The $20 is well worth the piece of mind...


hick
 

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