bronco II cv drive shaft swap

[tvg4x4]

hi im trying to find some info for a friend. he has a 89 b2 with that god awful cv rear drive shaft. i know there's replacement shafts form vendors like james duff but is there any other options? i was thinking maybe a explorer drive shaft and transfercase yoke might work?

[engdept]

Some Bronco II's came stock with a u-joint drive shaft. If you get lucky, you can find one in a junk yard.

http://www.lmctruck.com/ICATALOG/FR/full.aspx?Page=125
http://www.lmctruck.com/ICATALOG/FR/images/0125.jpg

[MAKG]

Yeah, but those area all from 1984 and are either W O R N O U T or pricey (reman). And they are ALL the wrong length for an '89 (that's before the A4LD transmission). And they don't bolt to the transfer case, so the transfer case needs modification. So, some work must still be performed ($100 or so for a shortening and balance).

So, you buy that shaft from LMC for $200 and you still have $150 or so in other work. You can buy a BRAND NEW custom made driveshaft for less than that. Of the shelf for much less.

[engdept]

So, you buy that shaft from LMC for $200 and you still have $150 or so in other work. You can buy a BRAND NEW custom made driveshaft for less than that. Of the shelf for much less.
Did you not read the ad from LMC? They have a single u-joint drive shaft for a '88-90 (part #50-6811-2) for a 5 speed that has the flange to flange mount.

[MAKG]

That's still going to be over $300 with tax, shipping, and core. It's VERY unlikely that a broken CV shaft is "rebuildable" because you can't get the tulips from anywhere.

You can have one MADE for that, with a better design (it DOES matter for Bronco IIs because they are so dang short). You want a CV joint on the front end (the double cardan design LMC describes). Or it's going to shake like 1906.

[AllanD]

The driveshaft from an explorer sport can be SHORTENED, but that doesn't adress the issue with the larger flange on the 90-up rear axles...

On an '89 you are kinda screwed one way or the other.

AD

[Hahnsb2]

I found the #2 driveshaft in that picture in a junkyard and it's the correct length for M5ODs, FM146 and A4LDs... Also had an 88 parts rig with the same shaft.

[codeman2468]

I cut down my 89 Ranger shaft to fit my 88 BroncoII. Works fine.

BTW, U-joints came at LEAST as late as 89... not just 84.

[MAKG]

BTW, U-joints came at LEAST as late as 89... not just 84.

Ranger shafts are not the same as Bronco II shafts.

[engdept]

Ranger shafts are not the same as Bronco II shafts.
They did also come in up to '89 Bronco II's. I have the u-joint style Spicer drive shaft in my '89.

[WhiteBroncoII2WD]

hi im trying to find some info for a friend. he has a 89 b2 with that god awful cv rear drive shaft. i know there's replacement shafts form vendors like james duff but is there any other options? i was thinking maybe a explorer drive shaft and transfercase yoke might work?

I didn't know James Duff sells these...I can't remember were I got mine in 2005, but we went from a CV rear drive shaft to one with U-joints, I'll have to look through some of my paperwork

[codeman2468]

Ranger shafts are not the same as Bronco II shafts.

Why do you think i had to cut it down? Ranger's are longer but the yokes are the same... trust me, my ranger shaft is still on my broncoII.

[cjb 90 bronchoII]

i also cut down my ranger driveshaft and it works fine in my 90 b2

[fastford04]

i guess ill add my .02 in....
You can use a explorer front shaft from a 91-94 also! All you need to get off the donor vehicle is the front shaft and the yoke off the transmission dont forget the 4 bolts that yoke the yoke on the shaft to the yoke on the transfercase!, you'll hafto find the big ujoint type 7.5 flange...ive got all the parts for mine i just havent had time to drop my cv shaft down an put the yoke on to measure!
if you have ur b2 lifted over 4 inches or so it will fit right up in there! no mods needed other the having to put the yoke transfercase and flange on the shaft!!

[Rabbit]

I used a front shaft from an early Heep Grand Waggy to replace the rear cv shaft on my 88. I had to lengthen it slightly.

[89REDRANGER]

I had a shaft from a Super-Cab cut up and built into a shaft the would work on the B2. It doesn't have the double-cardan (which I'll have to have before I can lift it), but it seems to work just fine. The shaft only cost me $100 to have rebuilt, shortened, balenced, with a warranty. It'll cost me another $100 to have the double-cardan joint added and everything. If you guys want the older style shafts with U-joints let me know. The wrecking yard here had 9 B2s with them last time I went out. They cost $45 each. I'll charge a little to drive out there, pull them, and ship them.

[88BII]

try your local auto parts store. i picked mine up for $220 brand new from advanced auto parts. im in florida. you might not have one where you live.

[NetBSD]

i made my driveshaft from a ranger one.


http://imnotmark.zapto.org:3030/b2/shaft/s6300013.jpg

you need the 2 slip joints so it will connect to the t-case without mods


http://imnotmark.zapto.org:3030/b2/shaft/s6300018.jpg

cut down and ready to weld. i tossed 1/2 quart of 10w40 in it to help balance


http://imnotmark.zapto.org:3030/b2/after-ride/s6300011-1024.jpg

and its been installed and used hard since the date on that last pic

[rbrocks]

I have a shaft out of a 89 auto, has u joints. fit my 88 with a 5 speed. want it?

[Jspafford]

That's still going to be over $300 with tax, shipping, and core. It's VERY unlikely that a broken CV shaft is "rebuildable" because you can't get the tulips from anywhere.

You can have one MADE for that, with a better design (it DOES matter for Bronco IIs because they are so dang short). You want a CV joint on the front end (the double cardan design LMC describes). Or it's going to shake like 1906.

I disagree.

A couple years back I bought a used driveshaft from someone on here. I don't know what it came from originally but it had the correct flanges on both ends to bolt to the 1350 and the 7.5". It was also the correct length.

Mine has a single u-joint on each end and I have no vibration problems.

[Hahnsb2]

I don't know what it came from originally but it had the correct flanges on both ends to bolt to the 1350 and the 7.5". It was also the correct length.

Mine has a single u-joint on each end and I have no vibration problems.
Me too, found mine laying next to a B2 in a junkyard, me thinks it's a replacement style sold in LMC.

[2ranger87]

I disagree.

A couple years back I bought a used driveshaft from someone on here. I don't know what it came from originally but it had the correct flanges on both ends to bolt to the 1350 and the 7.5". It was also the correct length.

Mine has a single u-joint on each end and I have no vibration problems.

My '87 B2 with an a4ld has a single u-joint at each end, and i have no problems with vibrations....(stock height)

I've parted a few 88+ B2's that have had replacement shafts in them, one even had a double cardan end on it. (I doubt they were factory shafts.....I just got lucky) :)