1996 Bronco spindle questions

I own a stock 1996 Eddie Bauer edition Bronco with 110k miles on it. Several months ago I had the local brake shop replace the worn rotor's, and when I got it back I noticed a slight high pitch squeal coming from the front. I tore the front end apart, and found that the inner part of the bearings had been turning on the spindle. I can see where the bearings spun, but I can't feel any wear, and there doesn't appear to be any slop when I fit the new bearing on the spindle. The problem (high pitch squeal) , remains after I put in new bearings and races and tightened them down.

I've learned a lot more than I wanted to know about Ford front ends by reading the Tech Library! I've learned that the factory nut that holds/tightens the bearing is hard to set to the right torque. There is a C clip (retaining clip??) that fits into holes in the nut, and forms around the spindle that that keeps the nut from turning. There are a limited number of holes in the nut, and it seems that the bearings are either too tight, or too loose. Is there anything that can be done about that? If not, how tight can I torque that nut without applying too much pressure on the wheel bearings? Any recommendations to keep the bearings from spinning on the spindle? The new bearings are packed with grease, but seem harder to turn than I would have expected.

Although the spindle doesn't feel worn, I'm suspicious that there has been some wear, and they are now smaller in diameter, and nothing is going to keep the bearings from spinning. I called Ford to see about replacing the spindles, and they claim that the spindles for Bronco made after June 2005 are no longer available. Can this be so? Would Ford have made a unique spindle for only 12-18 months, then discontinue it? I have what appears to be a Dana 44 axle based on part # 610608 (tag on passenger side I beam)

I've kept this Bronco in showroom condition, and want to get this front end problem fixed right. Any suggestions on what I should do?

Thanks,
Brent

I think the guy meant any bronco after june of 1995. The Bronco ended in 96 to be replaced by the Expedition in mid to late 96 as a 97. You aren't going to be able to tell if there is a little material missing by feel. But if you can't feel where the race spun and there is no pulled metal you should be ok. If you are still concerned, measure them or have a machine shop measure them. There has to be a set of specs somethere to which they can be compared to. If you want to try a different set of spindles and TTB Bronco or F-150 can donate them. As or the bearing torque. You want to torque the nut against the bearing until you feel drag then back it off half a turn. Install the lockwasher then the outer nut is the one you want to torque. I put around 175-200ft lbs on that. If that doesn't solve the problem, look for a hanging caliper or something of that nature, or it could even be the pad compound. That should hook you up.

Matt

projectnitemare said:

I think the guy meant any bronco after june of 1995. The Bronco ended in 96 to be replaced by the Expedition in mid to late 96 as a 97. You aren't going to be able to tell if there is a little material missing by feel. But if you can't feel where the race spun and there is no pulled metal you should be ok. If you are still concerned, measure them or have a machine shop measure them. There has to be a set of specs somethere to which they can be compared to. If you want to try a different set of spindles and TTB Bronco or F-150 can donate them.

Matt

Click to expand...

The parts guy told me that he had spindles for everything up to mid '95, and the spindle for the '96 was no longer manufactured. I don't think there were many 96 Broncos made, so if there was a change, I might be out of luck. Without having a '95 or older spindle in hand, is there any way to tell if the 96's had a unique spindle? I'm starting to doubt the parts guy. I've found a lot of conflicting material about his on the internet.

projectnitemare said:

As or the bearing torque. You want to torque the nut against the bearing until you feel drag then back it off half a turn. Install the lockwasher then the outer nut is the one you want to torque. I put around 175-200ft lbs on that. If that doesn't solve the problem, look for a hanging caliper or something of that nature, or it could even be the pad compound. That should hook you up.
Matt

Click to expand...

I have one further question. From the Tech Library, I've found the procedure that you outline, however, my Bronco doesn't have the lock nut that you describe. Instead it has a semi circular clip that slides into the keyway with a short leg that goes into the spindle nut. The rest of the clip wraps half way around and fits into a counterbore in the spindle nut. I think there may be a different procedure for my auto lock hub, than for a manual hub. Any suggestions for tightening my style spindle nut?

Thanks for the help!
Brent

There shouldn't be a change between 95 and 96 on a TTB Dana 44. The factory wouldn't redesign something especially at the end of a production. I called my buddy at the parts store. 95 and 96 take the same brakes, rotors, wheel bearings and so on. I haven't messed with auto hubs so the lock nut I described is for the manual hubs.

Matt

Last night I took everything apart again, and used a small amount of blue locktite on the spindles before putting the hub and bearings on. I used procedure "FTR" from the following Torque Spec Guide that I found on the net. http://vsmus-origin.skf.com/Files/Brochures_in_PDF/457377.pdf. At the proper torque, the holes in the spindle nut didn't quite line up with the retaining pin, so I tightened it up just a bit more until I could get the locking pin in. I drove it about 15 miles, and so far, everything seems to be OK. No more squealing!

Matt, thanks again for your help.

Glad everything is working out. I've always liked FS Broncos; I'm glad to see you are sticking with it.

Matt

the other thing should you need to replace the spindals down the road (i had to) not much difference, but the ABS on the front can make it for a difficult find. the other thing you can do is get a donor spindal from a 92-96 f150 or bronco, and take yours if the 2 are different down to the machine shop and have them modify the new(used) spindal to your old spindal. had to do that to my bronco they wanted 200$ for the abs spindal for my 93, and it only cost my 80$ for the used f150 spindal and the machine work done to it.

but glad to hear you dont have that annoyning squeal any more.