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Keeping "recirculation" on / active...???


Dr76

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With the noticeable engine power loss when the a/c compressor is engaged, is there a way to keep "recirculation" on, when the a/c is turned off?

I'm getting 40' F out of the vents, but as soon as a/c is turned off, it climbs so rapidly that it seems outside air MUST be coming in.

Chilton/Haynes tells me nothing... no schematics / vacuum routing on this subject.

'93 Ranger, 2.3L, manual, standard cab...

Thanks... it's crazy-hot in S. FL and would like to save any bit of gas I can!
 


MAKG

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Why the heck would you want to do that? Recirculating humid air gets stuffy very quickly. And if you can notice 2-5 HP, you're unusual. If it's more than that, your A/C is broken.
 
4x4junkie

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1993?

Don't push in the A/C (fan) knob?
 

Dr76

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MAKG said:
Why the heck would you want to do that? Recirculating humid air gets stuffy very quickly. And if you can notice 2-5 HP, you're unusual. If it's more than that, your A/C is broken.
Click to expand...

??? Humid air ??? The a/c DE-humidifies air... I want to recirculate this DE-humidified cold air as much as possible, so as to not have the compressor on. Of course I realize this would only last for so long and I would need to put the a/c back on, but any time OFF would be nice.

When it only had 100 HP BRAND NEW and now has over 175K miles, even a few HP it takes to run the compressor is noticeable....trust me!
 
shadetree

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In the max position, the system is recirculating inside air. However, all systems will mix a little of the outside air. You can check to make sure the heater door is closing all the way, hoses to the box are in good condition, etc. You will hear the door move when you switch from outside to inside air. The heater door seal could also be deteriorated to the point that it does not seal properly. Most are made of foam.:)shady
 

Dr76

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Thanks for the reply and suggestions....

I was not sure if I was still recirculating with the a/c button "off", but lever still set to "Max"... the vent temp just seems rise SOOO quickly once I do this. I'll try to get under the dash and check things out... after 15+ years, there's probably a bit of attention needed under there! :shok:
 
4x4junkie

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I would agree your "recirculating cooled dehumidified air" will be very short-lived. Vehicles are just not insulated all that well, combined with the fact you have such an intense heat source confined in the space right in front of you (the engine compartment), which then expels much of it's heat all along the underside surface of the floorboard too.

The A/C is supposed to kick out momentarily when you floor the throttle, but otherwise I would say you'll just have to live with it.

Is the truck modified at all? (lift, bigger tires, etc?) It's possible some upgrades in other areas might help to overcome the drag put on the engine by the compressor if so.
 

trhull

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Turn your vent selector to "off" that will open up the vent to the inside of the truck. However, there is nothing to close off the air from the outside. It should help a little bit.
 

Dr76

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The only "modification" is additional weight! (truck box) and, oh yeah, it's an extended bed, so even MORE weight!

I'll also try setting the lever to "Off" (instead of keeping it on "Max") and see how that responds...

Yeah, SUNNY S. Florida, the engine compartment and not-so-good 15-year-old insulation are some pretty big obstacles to try to overcome WITHOUT the a/c running constantly!

I'll try the suggestions... every little bit helps!

:icon_cheers:
 

Derek The Great

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Well Dr76, its not gonna get any better than that. As long as you're driving around in the sun the interior will always heat up fast. Hell, if you run the a/c system at your house, open up your shades for a month and see how that affects your electric bill :D
 
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