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Considering T-case options - experience?


rich

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96 Ranger 4.0L STX, 4R55E tranny, electric shift BW1354, manual hubs, 150k miles.

Every time I fix my electric-shift transfer case, it sooner or later becomes "unfixed" and costs me more time, money, and frustration. The problem is always with low range, 4-hi has never had a problem. Today I was 200 miles from home and had to crawl under the truck on the side of the road, remove the shift motor, and manually shift out of low range. It was that or drive 200 miles at a top speed of 35 mph. I'm tired of trying to make this thing work reliably - every time I think I can trust it, it fails.

One option I'm thinking about is cutting a hole in the floor and putting a manual shift T-case. What I'm not sure about is this - how does the PCM or auto trans know what range the T-case is in? The tranny's shift pattern is very different for high and low range, and I'd like to keep the tranny operating properly, if possible. What other pitfalls are there in swapping from electric-shift to manual-shift T-case?

The other option I'm thinking about may not be practical. I'm thinking there should be a way to just run totally new (separate) wiring and a switch (or two switches) to operate the shift motor, without including all of the interlocks (brake indicator, neutral indicator, speed sensor, etc). Has anyone tried that? What problems do you see with that approach?

Any assistance would be appreciated.
 


Natedog

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Prolly your electric shift motor...or maybe the wiring, but less likely.
 

rich

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It's not the motor. It works fine when it wants to.

For the past couple months, it's decided that low range will only work when overdrive is disengaged on the transmission. Over the weekend, when it was in low range, it decided that it just wasn't going to shift back out. I'm certain that if I re-installed the motor right now, high range would work perfectly as it always has.

It's certainly something electrical, but there are just too many variables in the system for my liking. It's probably the GEM again, but at $70 a pop; I'd rather eliminate some variables and have it stay fixed.
 

thedangerranger93

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check out your trans range sensor....it needs to see that that sucker is in park or neutral (maybe just neutral, I can't seem to remember) for it to shift out or into low range. thats what's wrong with mine. my back up lights don't work as well. I am asuming that this sensor switches them on when i go into reverse. I guess I'll have to take a look at the wiring diagrams next week. :)
 

rich

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The neutral sensor is a possibility, but I was assuming that if the engine would start in neutral, then the computer should know that it's in neutral and let it shift ranges. I'm suspecting the GEM behind the radio, since it used to work based on the position of the electronic overdrive selector. OD should have absolutely nothing to do with shifing between high and low range. The GEM (Generic Electric Module) costs $250 at the dealer - sounds like another kind of gem to me.

Guess I'll have to go through the long list of pin-point tests and try to narrow it down. Otherwise I'm just throwing more money and parts at it than I need to. But if I can't get it working properly after this attempt, I'm cutting a hole in the floor and slapping in a manual shift. As far as I'm concerned, this was not one of Ford's "better ideas"....:pissedoff:
 
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thedangerranger93

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I don't know about that...does the truck start in any gear? Mine does. That little sucker is a PITA to test those terminals. Like putting it high up on top of the trans keeps it clean/dry anyways :)
 

TheChuckster396

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I had a 1989 ranger with the BW1350 electric transfer case behind a 2.9L 5speed. I also had many of the same problems you describe - intermittently. I got fed up and went to a manual shift transfer case. It was an easy swap - the transfer case bolted right in. It just took some time to remove the floor plate, install and adjust the shift linkage. Things to be aware of - the front driveshaft mounts can vary - some are yoke type, others are splined. You need to match what you have. Also, be sure and get the boot for the shifter and the linkage - I got mine from a wrecking yard. Best decision I ever made. Good luck!
 

Bent Bolt

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The neutral sensor is a possibility, but I was assuming that if the engine would start in neutral, then the computer should know that it's in neutral and let it shift ranges.

. OD should have absolutely nothing to do with shifing between high and low range. The GEM (Generic Electric Module) costs $250 at the dealer - sounds like another kind of gem to me.

:
There are 2 functions of the trans range sensor. Park/neutral switch and the actual range sensor for the PCM. They completely separate circuits. They can be out of adjustment just a wee bit, enough that park/neutral is closed allowing starter to work but out of wack to read neutal or man2 when actually selected drive.

O/D has nothing to do with transfer case operation.

Check your brake switch. If the GEM does not see the brake lamps on, it will not shift into or out of 4low.
 

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