What has everybody had to fix on their truck?

[Just_Randy]

Thought it would be nice to have a database of what usually goes wrong.

On my 1997 Ranger 4x4 5-speed 3.0 its:

-Cam synchronizer and sensor (they were mangled)
-DPFE
-Water Line Vacuum Valve (cracked n leaked water)
-Blend Door (door pivot split down the middle)
-Door Switches (I had to disconnect them so my lights and "door ajar" would go out)
-Wiper Switch (makes wipers wipe at random)
-Rear Main Seal

I'm sure I'll be adding more later.

[reginald fairfield]

1999 Ford Ranger 4x4 3.0.

Rebuilt Transfercase that still does not work right. Twice.
Usual maintenance.
O2 sensors.

That is it so far. But the 140,000 motor sounds completely shitty. :pissedoff:

[Just_Randy]

Which T-case do you have? 1354??? What went wrong with it?

I just finished putting a rear main seal in... It still leaks. I guess I need a new crankshaft. The new clutch works nice though, so it wasnt a total loss. I'll just have to live with oil dripping out. This engine is not worth a new crankshaft!

For some reason my T-case was missing the nut that holds the front yoke on. So, the yoke was allowed to bounce all over in 4x4 mode and wore the oil seal out. So, all the oil drained out of the t-case long ago before I got the truck. Its a wonder my t-case is not a basket case.

[reginald fairfield]

Which T-case do you have? 1354??? What went wrong with it?


It was just a POS. The chain was loose, the planetaries were fried, all the electronics were screwed... Stupid 1354 E.... I am still trying to figure out what exactly is wrong with my four wheel drive, I thought for awhile that a stripped hub was slipping and fried the t case, but who knows... Even nobody on here was able to help me...

http://therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14977

[Just_Randy]

I hate having to rely on a motor to shift my t-case. I'm wondering if your motor is not engaging your 4 low all the way. I took my motor apart n cleaned the black stuff off it and played around with it to understand how it works. If you turn the motor enough times, the gears change. There's even a neutral position! The electronics won't let you shift into neutral though. But, I was wondering how that motor knows when to stop turning. Maybe if you manually lock your t-case into 4 low by turning the motor enough times and leaving it unplugged, I wonder if it would still give you problems....

If you want bulletproof, put a NP205 in it! Only a 2:1 crawl though instead of the 2.48:1 you have now.

[fixizin]

-Cam synchronizer and sensor (they were mangled)

What's the deal with this? Oil starvation? Plastic gears?

-Water Line Vacuum Valve (cracked n leaked water)

Do you mean the Heater Control Valve, in the heater hose? That's $20-25 online, or more at the stealerships. I carry a 5/8" heater bypass fitting so this kinda shyt won't leave me on the side of the road.

-Wiper Switch (makes wipers wipe at random)

Mine was covered by a recall; they even gave me a loaner F-150 after I bitched a little.


My '99 4x4 3.0L 5-speed:

-IAC
-DPFE
-VSS
-idler pulley bearing got squeaky;
-one factory spark plug broke the center electrode;
-well-known 3rd gear synchro/blocking ring "rough" issue;
-ball joint boots aging faster than other boots;
-Dimmer switch will not turn on dome light, never did.

... oh yeah, and it came with the infamous "exploding" Firestone Wilderness AT tires... I ran 'em for 18k miles before FoMoCo finally forced me to accept an even pricier set of Falkens.

Can't complain, no "hard" parts... OTOH, only 34k miles.

[kevinsranger]

[QUOTE=Just_Randy;173753]I just finished putting a rear main seal in... It still leaks. I guess I need a new crankshaft. I'll just have to live with oil dripping out. This engine is not worth a new crankshaft!

get a speedy sleeve for the crank, dont buy a new one, your gonna have to do some measurements for the parts store, or they might be able to find it with the sizes of the seal. its a real thin metal sleeve that gets pushed onto the seal surface of the crank to give the seal a new surface to seal against instead of replacing the crank or machining it.

[Big Jim M]

Randy If your PCV system is partially clogged or inoperable oil will be forced out the rear mail seal! I'd be looking at that system and making sure why my seal was leaking before attempting another repair..
Big JIm

[red2003xlt]

Gas tank, Ford claimed the warning light was caused by an improperly formed gas tank.


Warranty repair completed with a loaner, the gas tank had to specialty shipped.

[MUDDING B-3000]

ive got a 94 b3000.

the clutch was replaced about 2 months before i bought it.
since ive had it only for about 5 month ive only done usual maintaince
and my oil pressure line blew apart in 5 spots so oil went everywhere.
since im new to ofroading i didnt kno that once i submerge my wheel bearings i shold take them apart and re pack them. so i kill one set of wheel bears,
replaced those and havnt had any problem with anything since/

[Just_Randy]

-Cam synchronizer and sensor (they were mangled)

What's the deal with this? Oil starvation? Plastic gears?

From what I gathered reading online, the magnet falls off the sensor and turns the synchro into a milkshake blender.

http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg306/Just_Randy/Ranger/DCP_2717.jpg


-Water Line Vacuum Valve (cracked n leaked water)

Do you mean the Heater Control Valve, in the heater hose? That's $20-25 online, or more at the stealerships. I carry a 5/8" heater bypass fitting so this kinda shyt won't leave me on the side of the road.

Yes, that is what I meant. I carry water jugs so that kind of shyt won't leave me on the side of the road, lol. The previous owner had tried to fix it with silicon.... I guess it worked for a while.


-Wiper Switch (makes wipers wipe at random)

Mine was covered by a recall; they even gave me a loaner F-150 after I bitched a little.

Mine is a 97 and its 2008 now.... and I'm not the original owner... Can I still do the recall thing?


My '99 4x4 3.0L 5-speed:

-IAC
-DPFE
-VSS
-idler pulley bearing got squeaky;
-one factory spark plug broke the center electrode;
-well-known 3rd gear synchro/blocking ring "rough" issue;
-ball joint boots aging faster than other boots;
-Dimmer switch will not turn on dome light, never did.

... oh yeah, and it came with the infamous "exploding" Firestone Wilderness AT tires... I ran 'em for 18k miles before FoMoCo finally forced me to accept an even pricier set of Falkens.

Can't complain, no "hard" parts... OTOH, only 34k miles.

I'm going to check my IAC next. Not sure what a VSS is. Not sure what you mean by "3rd gear blocking ring issue". My 4th gear grinds sometimes if I try to shift too fast from 3rd. I also put a new ball joint on, but sorta don't count that as anything to complain about. I have 31 inch tires and 178,000 miles.

I remember those firestone tires. My truck came with TSL's from the previous owner. He also threw in the 31 inch street tires... all I had to do was buy new rims for them. Now I can switch tires for street or off-roading.

[Just_Randy]

[QUOTE=Just_Randy;173753]I just finished putting a rear main seal in... It still leaks. I guess I need a new crankshaft. I'll just have to live with oil dripping out. This engine is not worth a new crankshaft!

get a speedy sleeve for the crank, dont buy a new one, your gonna have to do some measurements for the parts store, or they might be able to find it with the sizes of the seal. its a real thin metal sleeve that gets pushed onto the seal surface of the crank to give the seal a new surface to seal against instead of replacing the crank or machining it.

Thanks! I was wondering if something like that existed. I'm not sure if I want to go thru all the trouble again or just live with the leak. That tranny was a real PITA to squeeze out over the rivetted crossmember!

[kevinsranger]

[QUOTE=kevinsranger;173926]

Thanks! I was wondering if something like that existed. I'm not sure if I want to go thru all the trouble again or just live with the leak. That tranny was a real PITA to squeeze out over the rivetted crossmember!

grind the heads off the rivits and replace them with bolts. and yea those speedy sleeves are really popular in heavy equipment where i work, but they go by size not application, and your better off going to an older parts store or a bearing shop to look it up, i doubt the people at pepboys or auto zone have any idea what they are unless they are using them on civics no lol.

[Just_Randy]

Randy If your PCV system is partially clogged or inoperable oil will be forced out the rear mail seal! I'd be looking at that system and making sure why my seal was leaking before attempting another repair..
Big JIm

Thanks Jim! I checked the PCV... It rattles, but I didn't take it off and check for plugging. I'll look into that.

My old main seal was in the block crooked. And none of the seal was flush with the block. I used a piece of PVC pipe to pound the new seal in flush and straight, but it still leaks. I figure after 178,000 miles and running who-knows-how-many-miles with a crooked seal, the crank is just worn. My oil pressure is very good though! I drained all the oil over several days... even let it run for a few seconds with no oil to flush out the oil pump. When I filled it back up n started it, the pressure gauge jumped up like it was spring-loaded. :)

[Just_Randy]

[QUOTE=Just_Randy;174744]

grind the heads off the rivits and replace them with bolts. and yea those speedy sleeves are really popular in heavy equipment where i work, but they go by size not application, and your better off going to an older parts store or a bearing shop to look it up, i doubt the people at pepboys or auto zone have any idea what they are unless they are using them on civics no lol.

I was thinking about grinding them, but figured I could get the tranny out and back in by brute force anyway. Also, if I removed the member, the axle would fall off and I was using jack stands under the axle to hold the truck up. At the time, it seemed like more work that it was worth. A scissor jack against the oil pan pushes the tranny out. Getting it back in involved a bunch of screwdrivers and wiggling. :)

If I tear it back down, can't I just take the measurement of the crank with calipers and then just order the speedy sleeve online somewhere? Does it come with a seal? Or at least a part number for a seal???

[Just_Randy]

Gas tank, Ford claimed the warning light was caused by an improperly formed gas tank.


Warranty repair completed with a loaner, the gas tank had to specialty shipped.


Was that a code p1443 by any chance???

[kevinsranger]

[QUOTE=kevinsranger;174747]

I was thinking about grinding them, but figured I could get the tranny out and back in by brute force anyway. Also, if I removed the member, the axle would fall off and I was using jack stands under the axle to hold the truck up. At the time, it seemed like more work that it was worth. A scissor jack against the oil pan pushes the tranny out. Getting it back in involved a bunch of screwdrivers and wiggling. :)

If I tear it back down, can't I just take the measurement of the crank with calipers and then just order the speedy sleeve online somewhere? Does it come with a seal? Or at least a part number for a seal???

yea i think if you google "speedy sleeve" or speedi sleeve" there is a big chart, i can always fax you one becasue i have it at work, and they offer seals too, but they do work with the stock seal too because its a really thin metal sleeve

[Just_Randy]

ive got a 94 b3000.

the clutch was replaced about 2 months before i bought it.
since ive had it only for about 5 month ive only done usual maintaince
and my oil pressure line blew apart in 5 spots so oil went everywhere.
since im new to ofroading i didnt kno that once i submerge my wheel bearings i shold take them apart and re pack them. so i kill one set of wheel bears,
replaced those and havnt had any problem with anything since/

Can't you just use waterproof grease (or whatever its called)??? If water gets in the wheel bearings, it should also get into the diff. Its the same type of seals.

A friend of mine had the mazda version with 150,000 miles n never had a lick of trouble out of it. He just traded up to a 2004 Ford pickup with the 4.6l and a spark plug blew out the next day! I think the mazda division did a little better in the engineering dept, lol. The same friend also had a mustang and an expedition blow a spark plug. I guess in this case the 3rd time wasn't the charm. :icon_surprised:

[Just_Randy]

[QUOTE=Just_Randy;174753]

yea i think if you google "speedy sleeve" or speedi sleeve" there is a big chart, i can always fax you one becasue i have it at work, and they offer seals too, but they do work with the stock seal too because its a really thin metal sleeve


I think from now on I'm just going to assume the crank is worn and use the speedy sleeve. How do you install the sleeve? If its very thin, I doubt I could use a hammer.

[Just_Randy]

Speedy-sleeve: http://www.kutzendoerfer.at/files/speedisleeve.pdf

[kevinsranger]

yea thats them, they should come with a little plastic thing to beat on to apply it lol, it should solve your problem completely. alot easier then pulling the crank and having it machined or getting a new one.

[exbass94]

Mine is a 97 and its 2008 now.... and I'm not the original owner... Can I still do the recall thing?


Yes, the dealer can look up if the recall fix was ever performed on your truck. If it hasn't already, they should fix it for free. About a year ago I brought my 1994 Explorer in for a recall that was never fixed. They did it for free, as they should. Shouldn't matter who owns the truck now.

[Just_Randy]

Ok, I'll call the dealer then and see if there are recalls. And I'll keep the speedy sleeve in mind and see how soon I want to tear everything back down. Thanks guys!

[fixizin]

Yep, they should do the wiper recall for free... it's classified as a NHTSA safety issue... it has to do with the switch mechanism in the end of the blinker-wiper control stalk, not readily fixable by end user.

You'd think it would be a "while-U-wait" swap/fix, but they said they had to keep it overnight (WTF?), so nach I say "whatcha got for a loaner, 'Stang with a stick? Minivan w/ a turbo? F-350 Powerstroke?..." They say no loaner for you, Jose'...

... this is not exactly an urgent show-stopper engine-ruining issue, so I call the 1-800 # on the recall notice... they MAIL me a letter on Dearborn letterhead to PRESENT to the dealer, which says (in essence) "provide this fine customer with a loaner vehicle, you chiseling bastards"... Service Mugger swallows hard, says he's never seen such a letter... he's a so-so actor... I have my doubts.

Anyhow, I get a F-150 from their on-site Enterprise rent-a-car office, gratis, but I still have to pay the tax (WTF?). It's the most stripped no-crew-cab small-V6 no-rear-bumper white-paint bench-seat basic-radio auto-tranny F-150 you ever saw... I looked in the bed for evidence of migrant farm workers, LOL... and still the MILEAGE WAS TERRIBLE, like 12MPG around town+short hwy IIRC... was glad to be back in my Ranger next day... but never again have I been distracted by the random wiper flips.

[fixizin]

Oh yeah, VSS = Vehicle Speed Sensor, in your rear diff.

If your speedometer and odometer suddenly stop working, and the "ABS" idiot light comes on, it's your VSS... a very easy swap of a $12 part. Otherwise, don't worry about it.

[red2003xlt]

Was that a code p1443 by any chance???


Don't know, I'll look. I've save every piece of paperwork about my truck.

[Just_Randy]

That's an entertaining post you whipped up there Fixizin! Thanks for the heads-up on the loaner car troubles. I think I'll forgo the headaches n just get a ride back home.

Are there any other recall issues with these trucks? (there should be in my opinion :) )

[Just_Randy]

Oh yeah, VSS = Vehicle Speed Sensor, in your rear diff.

If your speedometer and odometer suddenly stop working, and the "ABS" idiot light comes on, it's your VSS... a very easy swap of a $12 part. Otherwise, don't worry about it.

Oh ok, thanks again. I don't remember any wires coming out of my diff, but I'll go check again. Maybe 1997 was too eary for that. I don't think I have ABS either. I had the front axle-shaft out when changing the ball joint and I don't remember any teeth for a wheel sensor. A good thing in my opinion. :D

[Just_Randy]

Don't know, I'll look. I've save every piece of paperwork about my truck.

Thanks. That 1443 code is a puzzle.

p1443 = "Evaporative Emission Control System Control Valve". I guess even a leaking gas cap can throw that code.

[red2003xlt]

Thanks. That 1443 code is a puzzle.

p1443 = "Evaporative Emission Control System Control Valve". I guess even a leaking gas cap can throw that code.



Yes, it can. My former brother-in-law was/still is a dealer manger for a Ford dealer. He came up thru the mechanic parts side of the house.

Paraphasing, "Gas cap seals fail around age 4-5 years". Sometimes a newer junkyard cap can solve the problem.

[fixizin]

Oh ok, thanks again. I don't remember any wires coming out of my diff, but I'll go check again. Maybe 1997 was too eary for that. I don't think I have ABS either. I had the front axle-shaft out when changing the ball joint and I don't remember any teeth for a wheel sensor. A good thing in my opinion. :D

Not sure of the breakdown by model years, but the setup I described is for trucks with ABS on the rear-wheels-ONLY. IIRC, this was the no-frills "base" setup in 1999, with 4-wheel ABS an "option", perhaps only on XLT trim...?

Are there any other recall issues with these trucks? (there should be in my opinion )

Yeah, like a random wiper flip is a national emergency, PLEASE come in pronto, but try to get them to fix a KNOWN (TSB'd) dicey 3rd gear synchro and they don't wanna know you.

[Just_Randy]

What's up with 3rd gear? Where can I find the TSB on it?

4th is the one giving me trouble. Its like I have to shift slowly or I'll grind 4th. The clutch has to come to a stop before I can shift. Not a huge deal though. I might grind it every other day or less.

[philS]

In the Last 2 Years:

Exhaust (cat-back fell to highway right after I got it)
Cat heat shield
Rear pinion seal
U-joints
Diff gasket
Rear brake lines and hoses
Rear brakes
Brake cylinders
Radiator hoses (three different ones sprung leaks at three different times)
Thermostat (stuck closed)
Power steering pump
Belts
Heater hoses (sprung leak)
Coil
Ignition module
Engine and trans mounts
Radio
Clutch
Valve cover gaskets
Plugs/Wires/Cap/Rotor/etc

[philS]

LOL, forgot:

Brake calipers (one siezed)
Rotors
Front wheel bearings

[maitee1]

http://www.ford.com/owner-services/maintenance-service/recall-information

Grab your vin and visit that site. It will tell you all the recalls for your vehicle. I think it says wheteher or not they have been done. I haven't had a chance to check it out. Will someone let us know.

[Thumper113]

I guess I've been more fortunate than some folks here with repairs, 152k to date.

Repairs needed in order from when I bought it but not caused by wheeling it........regular maintinence doesn't count.........

1) Lower ball joints
2) Tie rods & drag link
3) Radiator leak
4) Thermostat
5) One intstrument cluster bulb
6) Ignition lock cylinder

[Just_Randy]

In the Last 2 Years:

Exhaust (cat-back fell to highway right after I got it)
Cat heat shield
Rear pinion seal
U-joints
Diff gasket
Rear brake lines and hoses
Rear brakes
Brake cylinders
Radiator hoses (three different ones sprung leaks at three different times)
Thermostat (stuck closed)
Power steering pump
Belts
Heater hoses (sprung leak)
Coil
Ignition module
Engine and trans mounts
Radio
Clutch
Valve cover gaskets
Brake calipers (one siezed)
Rotors
Front wheel bearings
Plugs/Wires/Cap/Rotor/etc

Lord have mercy that's a list! I was thinking the salt up there in MA probably did in your exhaust n whatnot under the truck. I'm guessing the thermostat caused the hoses to spring leaks???

My valve cover gasket leaks too, I just haven't fixed it yet. :D

Not counting plugs n wires, airfilter, and maintenance items. Radio counts if you HAD to replace it because of some defect or something. Not because you just wanted a better radio. :)

[Just_Randy]

[quote=Thumper113;177365]
5) One intstrument cluster bulb

I had a few of those out as well. The guy that owned it before me took the CEL light out. He also took out the Door Ajar light. I guess that's one way of fixing the problem. :D

[Just_Randy]

http://www.ford.com/owner-services/maintenance-service/recall-information

Grab your vin and visit that site. It will tell you all the recalls for your vehicle. I think it says wheteher or not they have been done. I haven't had a chance to check it out. Will someone let us know.

I put my VIN in and hit "find"..... This was the result: "There are currently no recalls on this VIN."

I find that hard to believe. :shok:

[Thumper113]

5) One intstrument cluster bulb

I had a few of those out as well. The guy that owned it before me took the CEL light out. He also took out the Door Ajar light. I guess that's one way of fixing the problem. :D

That'll do it :D

I lucked out cause the guy that owned it before me bought it new. He traded it in on a full size at a dealer I worked at in 2000 with 70k on it. I saw it on the back of the lot (waiting to clear), grabbed the key, checked it out, told the general manager (I wasn't gonna go through a salesman) I wanted it. He sold it to me at $1200 under loan value at that time.

There was a folder in the glove box with all the things he had done to it since he owned it. Aside from a new power steering hose, all he ever did was religious oil changes, brakes, tires, difs, t/case, & trans services, coolant flushes, etc. Found out he was a guy in his sixties so he took care of it............I'm glad he did.

Of course, especially now, anything can go wrong. I'll deal with 'em as they pop up.



As for the breakdowns/problems I created by lifting it, wheeling it, large tires, etc...........

1) Left stub broken
2) Front axle center u-joint & yoke broken
3) Pair of broken Warn 29071 hubs & one stock manual hub
4) Steering gear (sector shaft broken)
5) Driveshaft carrier bearings & u-joints (due to extreme driveline angle)
6) Bent front diff beam (slammed into a rock)
7) Bent rear driveshaft (a driveshaft is not a rock slider)


Some things that need attention soon............

1) New windshield
2) New right tailight assembly
3) Drivers window squeaks when rolling it up.
4) Front brakes worn
5) Tires getting worn

[bobbywalter]

i
































I

































NO WAY I COULD ANSWER THIS ONE!!!!!:scare:

[Thumper113]

i

NO WAY I COULD ANSWER THIS ONE!!!!!:scare:

:icon_rofl: :haha:

[fixizin]

What's up with 3rd gear? Where can I find the TSB on it?

Somewhere on this site is the TSB, or a link to it... fur-get where...

4th is the one giving me trouble. Its like I have to shift slowly or I'll grind 4th. The clutch has to come to a stop before I can shift. Not a huge deal though. I might grind it every other day or less.

You could try double-clutching, i.e. release clutch pedal for a quick sec with stick at neutral point and gas backed off to near idle at mid-shift to slow down the clutch end... you can get pretty quick/slick at it with practice, but eventually you'll be checking out those excellent photos in the "rebuild your own tranny" thread. :mad:

[maitee1]

I put my VIN in and hit "find"..... This was the result: "There are currently no recalls on this VIN."

I find that hard to believe. :shok:

Maybe all the outstanding recalls have been taken care of? I still have yet to try it.

[Just_Randy]

Maybe all the outstanding recalls have been taken care of? I still have yet to try it.

No, the wipers are still funky. Unless they fixed it with another bad part.... :dunno:

You should try it. Only takes a minute. I never left my chair.... Had the title in the file cabinet right here. :)

[Just_Randy]

What's up with 3rd gear? Where can I find the TSB on it?

Somewhere on this site is the TSB, or a link to it... fur-get where...

4th is the one giving me trouble. Its like I have to shift slowly or I'll grind 4th. The clutch has to come to a stop before I can shift. Not a huge deal though. I might grind it every other day or less.

You could try double-clutching, i.e. release clutch pedal for a quick sec with stick at neutral point and gas backed off to near idle at mid-shift to slow down the clutch end... you can get pretty quick/slick at it with practice, but eventually you'll be checking out those excellent photos in the "rebuild your own tranny" thread. :mad:

I once brazed on some new teeth on a synchronizer. :D To my surprise, it actually worked for the better part of 10 years. But that was a SROD.... This M5OD looks a little more complicated. I think I'll just be REAL easy on it and hope for the best.

[Just_Randy]

Thumper, sounds like you got a great deal to start off with. I gave $3500 for mine and the previous owners beat the snot out of it, lol.

If you had it to do again, would you put a D44 in front and a 9 inch in back? On my D44 I put a Detroit with Yukon gears, CTM joints, and Warn premium lockouts.... It seems like a bullet proof axle as long as you get the pinion nice n tight against the ring gear. Oh, that reminds me, I also put the Rock Proof Bulletproof Steering on it. :D

[TimS]

'99 RWD 82k

Speed sensor
#5,#6 fuel injectors (both failed electrically this month)
plug in firewall factory forgot to put in (leaking lots of water under driver's feet)
wiper switch
1 plug wire that had end of spark plug break off in it
upper and lower ball joints (this week)

[triumphrider-1]

So far I have been pretty fortunate (knock on wood) with my truck. It has roughly 123,000miles on it and here is what I have changed:

-Upper and lower ball joints (both sides)
-Tie-rod ends (both sides, need to complain to Belle Tire though, the protector boots are already torn :mad:)
-Passenger side unit bearing (for those with 4 wheel ABS please take care of yours THESE ARE NOT CHEAP! :eek:)
-I killed my clutch fan last summer driving through a silt saturated water-hole so changed that out for an electric fan.

Things I need to change:
-Bed (previous owner tore the outside of it up pretty good)
-Power steering pump or AC compressor (one of them is REALLY noisy)
-Under dash wiring harness (previous owner decided to cut the radio quick connect off and attach the new unit with electrical tape...)
-Driver side door hinges

That about sums it up for my stuff.

[evanesce69]

I got my truck with 80K on it. Since then I have:

Plugs, wires and cap @ 82K
One thermostat @ 126K
concurrently one set of heads @ 126K
Ball joints, upper and lower @ 160K


Been lucky so far, but you all know i have PLANS.....


HE HE HE :stirthepot:

:icon_cheers:

[Thumper113]

Thumper, sounds like you got a great deal to start off with. I gave $3500 for mine and the previous owners beat the snot out of it, lol.

If you had it to do again, would you put a D44 in front and a 9 inch in back? On my D44 I put a Detroit with Yukon gears, CTM joints, and Warn premium lockouts.... It seems like a bullet proof axle as long as you get the pinion nice n tight against the ring gear. Oh, that reminds me, I also put the Rock Proof Bulletproof Steering on it. :D

Last year, I bought a 79 Bronco for the axles so I could do that. I then realized, it already does decent for the trails I like to go on so I sold those to Bloodbane here, he's gonna use 'em soon. The "desire" is still their but after working on cars for a living since '82, it's not much fun for me to tinker & build anymore. I figure I'll just use my truck like I've been using it & have fun with it. When it breaks, I'll fix it eventually :D

[thegoat4]

So far:
-DPFE
-Cam Synch Sensor
-plugs/wires
-ignition coil (open when hot)
-belt tensioner and belt
-thermostat gasket (had to beat the old thermostat out, so thermostat too)
-radiator cap
-heater core
-flush cooling system (get rid of the barsleak)
-one pound of freon
-upper & lower ball joints
-brake job and adjust bearings
-clutch
-slave cylinder
-some lights behind the cluster
-one park light
-set of tires and a rim for the stolen spare
-driver's side door ajar switch
-shift knob
-locking fuel cap
-installed a trailer hitch

Most of it shortly after I bought the truck.

To do list:
-replace the windshield
-fix the tilt on the passenger seat (handle broke off)
-switch to a full-width bed (i hate stepsides)
-transfer case (for low gears)
-get the wal-mart dents fixed and a paint job

[fixizin]

I once brazed on some new teeth on a synchronizer. :D To my surprise, it actually worked for the better part of 10 years.


:pray::pray: You, sir, are a DIY demi-god, and winner of an "URR, Urr, urr" Award!! :pray::pray:

Wow, talk about beating the tranny "racket" set-up by the Big Three Autos!!

I too have been surprised by the durability of things "rigged" with high-temp silver solder, MAPP gas, and my $25 screw-on torch... but a SYNCHRO!... sheet... kinda raises the bar... pretty much means I gotta at least add any missing teeth to my crank window regulator... epoxy?... rat-tail file?... jeweler's loupe?... LOL.

[Jason]

I got my truck with 80K on it. Since then I have:

Plugs, wires and cap @ 82K
One thermostat @ 126K
concurrently one set of heads @ 126K
Ball joints, upper and lower @ 160K


Been lucky so far, but you all know i have PLANS.....


HE HE HE :stirthepot:

:icon_cheers:
It still amazes me that people find it acceptable to have to replace cylinder heads at anything under 200k.

[Jason]

My repairs consist of removing the crap Motorcraft brakes and fitting Bendix Ceramic pads with Autospecialty cross-drilled rotors and during that finding my left side hub assembly looser than 60 year old prostitute tang.

[reginald fairfield]

So far:
-DPFE
-Cam Synch Sensor
-plugs/wires
-ignition coil (open when hot)
-belt tensioner and belt
-thermostat gasket (had to beat the old thermostat out, so thermostat too)
-radiator cap
-heater core
-flush cooling system (get rid of the barsleak)
-one pound of freon
-upper & lower ball joints
-brake job and adjust bearings
-clutch
-slave cylinder
-some lights behind the cluster
-one park light
-set of tires and a rim for the stolen spare
-driver's side door ajar switch
-shift knob
-locking fuel cap
-installed a trailer hitch

Most of it shortly after I bought the truck.

To do list:
-replace the windshield
-fix the tilt on the passenger seat (handle broke off)
-switch to a full-width bed (i hate stepsides)
-transfer case (for low gears)
-get the wal-mart dents fixed and a paint job

What is wrong with your transfer case?

[GatorBlue92]

im at 90k and other than ball joints and other lift related items i have only replaced the clutch and the cam synchro

[4x4RangerGuy]

As of today:

Driver's side upper and lower ball joints
Driver's side tie rods
Pass. side outer tie rod
Rebuilt 4R44E, then an M5OD swap after the second failure
Water pump
Fan clutch
Heater valve
Hub assemblies with PVH disconnects, and later AVMs swapped on
Spark plugs, wires, etc.
Instrument panel bulbs
Brakes, tires, shocks
A/C Compressor and all A/C lines

Things I need to do:
Full exhaust replacement
Shock bushings
P/S pump
Header panel

[Bryan22]

92 3.0 with 160xxx miles. Had it for about 5 1/2 yrs since it had 70xxx

Normal maintinence (plugs wires filters brakes oil ect.)
Left caliper (caught fire)
Right wheel cylinder (try delivering pizza w/no brakes haha)
water pump
clutch at 120xxx
couple power steering pumps
heater core hoses
exhaust (she lived at the beach before i got 'er)
2 starters
honestly most of that is normal wear and tear i think. Still runs like a champ (can chirp it in 3rd with the stock tires haha) 21-22mpg on the highway, go baby go! now that 94 with a 2.3 is a different story (basket case) she's pretty tho. haha.

[thegoat4]

What is wrong with your transfer case?

Nothing, I just don't have one. I intend to add one for the sake of gaining the lower gear range.

[reginald fairfield]

Nothing, I just don't have one. I intend to add one for the sake of gaining the lower gear range.

Ahhh.... Just thought I found another one with a fried 1354. Guess I am the only one...

[Just_Randy]

Last year, I bought a 79 Bronco for the axles so I could do that. I then realized, it already does decent for the trails I like to go on so I sold those to Bloodbane here, he's gonna use 'em soon. The "desire" is still their but after working on cars for a living since '82, it's not much fun for me to tinker & build anymore. I figure I'll just use my truck like I've been using it & have fun with it. When it breaks, I'll fix it eventually :D

I know how you feel! :beer:

[Just_Randy]

:pray::pray: You, sir, are a DIY demi-god, and winner of an "URR, Urr, urr" Award!! :pray::pray:

Wow, talk about beating the tranny "racket" set-up by the Big Three Autos!!

I too have been surprised by the durability of things "rigged" with high-temp silver solder, MAPP gas, and my $25 screw-on torch... but a SYNCHRO!... sheet... kinda raises the bar... pretty much means I gotta at least add any missing teeth to my crank window regulator... epoxy?... rat-tail file?... jeweler's loupe?... LOL.

Ahh,,, it wasn't so bad. Back in '95 I had more time than cents. :D

If I had missing teeth on a crank window I'd much rather bust out the trusty mig welder and put em back on n file em down than I would to drive to the bone yard n deal with all that! :icon_welder: