View Full Version : Needing help (351 swap)
EdGe_wannabe
09-12-2007, 07:45 PM
Hey everyone, I'm about to be starting a new project soon & I have a few questions. I would really appreciate it if y'all can point me in the right direction...
I'm going to be buying a 1990 Ranger, single cab, 2wd, short bed...
Plans are to swap in a 351 out of a 1979 Ford Van, bolting up a c4 behind it.
It'll be bored/stroked to a 418 or maybe a 393 (I'm not completely 100% sure yet). I'd like to have some suggestions for a cam/heads/carb/anything else that would get me on the right track. I've been seeing issues with steering and header problems, but I'll try my best to work around that. I will NOT be having A/C in the truck, so if that makes any difference; great!
My goal is to be anywhere from 400-500 hp without forced induction or nitrous.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Brenton
Don't worry its not impossible,
I have an 83 with a 357W (been bore .030") with ported 1970 heads, rpm air gap manifold, 750 double pumper, and custom ground hydraulic roller cam. It's bolted to a Performance Automatic C4, attached to a 9" rear end and competition four link rear suspension. It should be making between 385-415 hp @ the crank. So far I have turned a 12.84 @ 102 mph in the quarter and still have a lot of bugs to work out. Go to "youtube" and search "v8 ranger" , you'll see it.
First tip is if you want to make your life a whole lot easier, spent the $150 and buy the short street rod waterpump (v-belt only?) from ford motorspots. Its about 1.5" shorter frees alot of extra room, however I am not convinced it is the best water pump cooling wise.
Second, you probably have power steering huh? The 83 has a manual and replacing the factory rag joints and shaft with Borgeson type joints and a double D shaft makes extra clearance. Hopefully you could do the same on your 90. Obviously, oil filter relocation is a must. I would avoid the transdapt brand, the hoses are like garden hoses. I went braided stainless for the oil lines and have no regrets.
As for the motor, stick with a ford duraspark distributor, maybe add a different cap and rotor. It is the most accurate distributor up to 10000 rpm, period. If you're looking to push 500hp, a Victor Jr. intake might be required. Cam? eh, not sure. For heads, AFR is probably a wise choice.
Later.
v-8power
09-13-2007, 07:31 AM
How are you planning on driving your truck? Daily, race only, weekends? Makes a difference on how you build it.
projectnitemare
09-13-2007, 09:11 AM
V8 power asked the best question. What are you expecting from this truck? I have already built the engine you are thinking of. I'm not going to waste a bunch of time on the details, reguardless it's a well build 396W stroker. If you do a stroker buy a complete kit. Don't waste your time on a C4 with a stroker. I had a moderately build up one that the 3 local shops that had rebuilt it said that it would hold; it never did. Go C6 with a aftermarket planetary and thrust washer conversion to torrington bearings. I never ran a drag strip with the truck so I don't have any slips but it's still pretty damn fast especially for a lifted truck. You don't "need" the short water pump, I eventually bought one but it did fit without it as long as you have the radiator under the core support. A 351 will bolt in exactly the same as a 302, the engine fits fine. The exaust is a little bit difficult but not bad. You can keep the power steering, but get a steering shaft with u-joints. If you aren't too concerned with the perfomance yet you can find a set of iron manifold that will work. Headers are pretty much custom. I've tried dozens of sets, most will fit on the pass side, but the driver side needs some mods, that's probably the easiest route besides going full custom and over the frame.
Matt
EdGe_wannabe
09-13-2007, 06:32 PM
The truck will be driven MAYBE once a week to the drag strip when the trailer isn't available.
Ok, so these are the performance parts that I have lined up...
Heads: Victor Jr. ($1349 shipped)
Intake: Victor Jr. ($312 shipped)
Cam: Comp Cams 292 Magnum K-Kit ($330 shipped)
Carb: Holley 1150 cfm dominator carb ($775 shipped) (Can I use this carb?)
Any other suggestions?
Brenton
v-8power
09-13-2007, 07:55 PM
That carb is probably going to be a little too big.
I think that cam has a duration of 244 @.05 lift. So you are probably going to need
a 2800 or 3000 rpm stall converter.
Sounds like you are going to be making pretty good power.
Here some pics of headers, radiator, and motor mounts.
http://img517.imageshack.us/img517/636/headerdw4.jpg
http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/9634/radiatorpx5.jpg
http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/9372/motormountsda9.jpg
EdGe_wannabe
09-14-2007, 05:21 AM
Yea, I think that carb would be too much...damn
Which carb do y'all reccomend?
Brenton
v-8power
09-14-2007, 06:49 AM
Yea, I think that carb would be too much...damn
Which carb do y'all reccomend?
Brenton
I would say if you were to get a 750DP it would be ok.
v-8power
09-14-2007, 08:57 AM
847b, You make those headers yourself? Those look pretty cool. If you look in the other 351 thread you can see the ones i am using.
v-8 power, yeah I made them. Started with the flange kits from hooker and bought a bunch of u-bends. A lot of time invested, but the fit and flow was worth it.
baddis
09-16-2007, 01:53 AM
i used a 780 holly on a basic 302 in the late 80's and early 90's it had a small cam and had no issues BUT it was a 4 speed also. and it got better mileage than the stock 2bbl motorcraft carb
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