Tranny removal giving me problems....


runnert

15+ Year Member

Joined
Aug 13, 2007
Messages
33
Points
3,101
City
Colorado
Vehicle Year
1995
Transmission
Manual
Hey, I have a 95 ranger with 4.0l, 5sp manual - which means I have the mazda tranny. I am doing my clutch upgrade.

I cannot get the darn hydralic line quick connect to release the black tube. I pushed in the white colar as far back as I can (almost flush with the copper tube coming from the bell housing) and it still will not release. What is the secret or is mine broke?

2nd question is about the tranny removal. I got down as far as taking off the t-case. I know there are 2 bolts that hold the bell housing on at the top. What is the secret to getting to those bolts, a very long extension with the swival link?

Last question is do I really have to remove the exhaust? For me, if I have to it will be cutting bolts because they are so rusted that I know they arent coming off even with the pb spray.

Any other advice sure is welcome.

Thanks,

runnert
 
I just use a wrench to get to the top 2 bolts. 13mm I believe. It can be quite a squeeze.

You may need to just cut that line and buy a new one for $50-$75. It's a dealer part. That's what I had to do.
 
I found that if you drop the wide cross-member that holds the tailshaft (leave it attached to the tailshaft to apply leverage) and have a buddy put downward pressure on it, it'll tilt the motor (up) and the tranny (down) enough to get those top 2 bolts quite easily.

You still need to snake your hand up in there, but after you break the bolts loose, use a fine 1/4 drive ratchet and 13mm to spin them out (if your fingers can't quite do it).

I had a hard time too with my first slave quick disconnect. I bought the tool from NAPA ($8, can't go wrong) applied the inward force to the plastic sleeve and pulled the line (it's pretty tough). It popped right out. I got lucky on that one and didn't even have to bleed the clutch afterwards. The one I'm doing now needs a new slave. Not looking forward to THAT bleed job (gonna bench bleed the whole thing, reservoir/master/slave).
 
Last edited:
You can use a wrench from the top, or about 3 ft. of extensions and a 6 point socket from the bottom. I did not remove the y-pipe on my 89 Ranger 4x4. Disconnect the exhaust after the converter and remove the cross member. Recently on TRS someone described using ratchet straps to pull the engine and y-pipe down a little more to make things easier; sounds like a plan.

My black line would not release either. I got it disconnected by rotating the collar clockwise and counterclockwise while prying outward at the same time.

Be sure to install a NEW slave cylinder or you will regret it no matter how good the old one looks. (don't ask how I know this.)
 
the ratchet strap plan - make sure that the ratchet part is under that x-member, worked pretty good for me, still had to pry on the bottom of the tranny but not nearly enough doing it without the strap, i hate taking off the exhaust, living up here in the rust belt doesn't help things with that
good luck
 
Thanks for the replies. Help me understand something about the hydralic line. Does the brass collar that the black tube goes into, does it stay with the quick connect or does it stay with the black tube? I tried to pull both out, but I am really not sure. I can rotate both the brass and white collar 360º, but am not sure what separates from what.

As far as the exhaust goes, I think I am just going to cut the bolts or something to separate the exhaust.

runnert
 
One thing here. When you push in that plastic collar are you pushing in the line before you pull it out? While pushing the collar in you have to push the fitting in also a tiny bit to get it to pop out. There is no need to cut that line regardless, you can always take it off at the master cylinder and snake it down with the transmission if you need do. And if you really want to you could also suspend the transmission, slide it away from the motor, and punch the pin out of the slave cylinder that holds the fitting in place.
 
I tried pushing in the tube, but it will not budge. I tried grabbing the brass colar with pliers and hitting the pliers with a hammer to get it to go either direction and would not budge. So yeah, I think something is screwed up. I may try disconnecting at the master.
 
Yeah the only way you'd want to cut the line is if you've got money in your pocket that you just want to get rid of and if that's the case then just put it in an envelope and mail it to me!! When you get the transmission out with the hydraulic line attached to it you will most likely find it easier to remove.
 
yeah I got the tranny out last night. I was all set to cut that darn hydralic line. I looked for my utility knife and could not find it. So after yelling at whatever forces were stopping me, I tried again and for some stupid reason...I got the quick connect to release. :icon_confused: So anyway, the rest went really good. I was surprised as to how "not really heavy" the tranny is. So I got the slave cylinder taken out, all the clutch assy is out.

I do have one question and that is on the bearing in the fly wheel. I want to replace it, but there are about 5 bolt heads covering the outer peremeter of the bearing. Do I take out the bolts? I gave a little tug to see if they would come loose, but they are really on there.

Also, is it ok to use emery cloth on the flywheel?

runnert
 
that is the pilot bearing, you could use a internal bearing puller(slide hammer) or take the 5 bolts out, they are locktited in there, they are only torqued to about 50 ft lbs i believe, if you take those out you should be able to tap the bearing out with a socket the same size or slightly smaller than the bearing and a hammer
 
Take the flywheel to a machine shop and have it professionally resurfaced.

TRY to find one that has the special grinding machine for flywheels
The initial pass is indeed done with a carbide cutter, but that cutter
is just ahead of a rotating grinding wheel that cuts the flywheel
AS it's rotated on a turntable

A lot of cheap-ass places try to do them on a brake rotor lathe.

the last guy that did that to one of my flywheels probably still walks funny
Ditto for the guy that ruined a flywheel by CUTTING OFF THE DOWELS!

Many after clutch replacement issues (chatter, slipping and shorter service life)
can be avoided with proper refinishing.

I've learned that when going to a new machine shop for the first time to have a flywheel done I want to SEE the machine so I know how it's going to be done.
If he can't show me the rotary blanchard grinder
(or refuses to let me into his shop to SEE the machine)
I take my flywheel, my money and ALL future buisness elsewhere.

AD
 
I am also doing a clutch job on a '95 3.0L 4x4. I am also having trouble accessing those pesky bolts at the top of the bellhousing. If I lower the tranny the y-pipe bottoms out on the crossmember that supports the front suspension. I have heated the exhaust manifolds to remove the y-pipe but have only had success on the drivers side. Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I wasn't planning on replacing the slave but after seeing how much trouble it is getting to it, I think it's probably worth the price to do it now.
 
fish said:
I wasn't planning on replacing the slave but after seeing how much trouble it is getting to it, I think it's probably worth the price to do it now.
Click to expand...

I am sure that is one of those things that runs through everyone's mind when they realize how much hassle is involved in replacing a simple little slave cylinder on these trucks.
 
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