5.0L EFI wireup (yes, another one)

This wiring guide is derived from my experience installing a Ford 5.0L EFI engine from a Lincoln TownCar into a Bronco II (86') that had a 2.9. THAT IS WHAT THIS SPECIFICALLY APPLYS TO, but I believe that it will work with any RBV that had the 2.9L.

The RBV alternator harness will plug straight into the 5.0L alternator, and successfully charge your system.

When doing this conversion you will need the small injector harness and the main computer harness that came with the 5.0L. (Main harness pictured)

Once you have installed the engine and are happy with it’s position and have installed the harness from the car you are ready to button up wiring.


Not far from the computer connector is a Black Square, 16 pin connector.



1) Red/Yellow = Control to fuel pump relay. Must go through the RBV inertia switch and connect to Solid Red (#4). The inertia switch is by the passenger left foot, it has Pink/Black & Orange/Blue wires. It’s connector in the engine bay is a Black Rectangular 2 Pin. (Inertia switch connector pictured)




2) Yellow/Blue = Vehicle speed sensor for cruise control, not used.

3) Tan/Green = VIP (?) connection, not used.

4) Red = Connect to #1 wire (Red/Yellow) through the inertia switch.

5) Red/White = Unknown, not used.

6) Pink/White = Unknown, not used.

7) Pink/Purple = VIP (?) feed, not used.

8) White/Red = Oil pressure warning light.

9) *Black + 2 Blue stripes = GROUND

10) Tan/Red = Check engine light

11) *Blue + 2 Black stripes = Speed Control sensor, not used.

12) Red/Dark Green = This wire is HOT when starting, (resultant). Not used.

13) Green/Orange = Cruise control, not used.

14) Blue/Green = This wire went to the instrument panel, not used.

15) Pink/Black = Big power from fuel pump relay to RBV harness and into RBV fuel pump. Connect to Orange/Black wire that goes into Black/Grey/White Round 1 Pin connector. (Connector pictured)



16) Green/White = Anti-Lock brakes, unused


On the 5.0L harness there is a Black Round/Rectangular 8 pin, 7 wire connector.



1) Black = Connect to a big fat Red wire from a Grey Rectangular 8 pin connector on the RBV.



2) White/Pink = Connect to Red/LightBlue (Start postion on Key) from Black/Grey Round 4 pin connector on RBV. (Pictured)



3) Tan/Yellow = Unknown, not used.

4) Orange/Yellow = Connect to Purple/Orange (Run postion on key) from Black/Grey Round 4 pin connector on RBV.

5) Purple = MAF sensor to EEC (not used because I used a SpeedDensity motor/computer combo)

6) Red/Yellow = Unknown, not used.

7) Black/Pink = Unknown, not used.


At the opposite end of the harness from the computer there a Black Round 4 pin connector.



1) Black/Green = GROUND

2) Orange/Blue = Always hot, 20 Amp fuse.

3) Yellow/Black = Always hot, 30 Amp fuse.

4) White/Blue = Starter Solenoid/Relay signal wire. This is the wire that tells your starter to engage.


There is a two pin connector that splices out of the NeutralSafteySwitch loom down with the transmission. This goes to your vehicle speed sensor, which is piggy-backed on your speed-O gear. This just transmitts a frequency, so which-wire-to-which-wire does not matter. I just cut into my existing wires going from the VSS to the 2.9 computer and attached them to the wires going to the 2 pin connector. This tells the computer that the vehicle is infact moving. You can run without this hooked up, but it may lead to stalling when you snap the throttle closed under load, or coming to a stop with an automatic.


I was able to tidy all my wiring into one neat corner with the computer. I have yet to secure (and hopefully make water resistant) the computer yet, but that is about where mine will live. I ran the 60 pin, relay box, and the other connecter in-between the brake master cylinder and above the brake lines coming from it.



Other notes:

•MAKE SURE TO WELL GROUND ALL GROUND WIRES, THIS IS THE MOST LIKELY CAUSE OF FAILURE.

•Make sure Grey/LightBlue on the 60 pin computer connector is well grounded.

•Make sure you have good connection on your 60 pin connector. I suffered from an erratic computer my first week because not all pins were makeing contact. My ohm meter pin is slightly bigger than the female side of the connector and they where all stretched a tiny bit. I went in and crimped them with o-ring pliers. 100% now.

•This answer key is derived assuming you have a working and plugged in Neutral Safety Switch. The start signal goes from the key through the NSS, then to the starter. Do not hotwire the NSS this is one of the most dangerous things you could do. Especially if someone besides you ever has to drive this vehicle. (Which will eventually happen.)

lol, apparently this is not that interesting....?

thoughts? anybody?

good write up, i dont plan on doing this ever, but just curious--are all these wires cut/spliced, or do you pull the pins of out the connectors and swap them around.

Just curious if the PCM ended up back into the kick panel, and if so, what kind of wiring modifications did you make?

Definitely very thorough.

Pete

compleckz said:

good write up, i dont plan on doing this ever, but just curious--are all these wires cut/spliced, or do you pull the pins of out the connectors and swap them around.

Click to expand...

Cut and sautered together. With shrink wrap. Much patience. So, there is some redundant connectors. But so far no problems, and I dont expect any.

Psychopete said:

Just curious if the PCM ended up back into the kick panel, and if so, what kind of wiring modifications did you make?

Definitely very thorough.

Pete

Click to expand...

YES, the comp ended back in the cab because it can't take the heat. I thought I could get away with it in the engine bay corner. But not even close. After a drive one day the engine started acting up, so I went and snooped under the hood and i set my hand on the comp. To hot to touch!! Yikes! So then next day I punched hole in the firewall with a holesaw just big enough for the plug to get through. It is a tight stretch!!! The comp is mounted where my park brake pedal used to live. It never worked anyways!

It's a good write up. Do you have an engine bay shot with the engine installed? I found a 5.0L sitting in an engine bay, but I could use a cleaner photo. Actually, I just need a photo of a 5.0L to show of the engine in question. It doesn't have to be in a Ranger.

15 years ago it would have been interesting. the thought of using this setup over a strong 4.0 is not appealing though, as buildup isnt "plug and play" compared to the mustang system....theres proven formulas for that...speed density is limited for those living in the sticks working with a junkyard budget.


but the cool thing with these is you can incorporate the data output for the lincoln trip computer ect to have all that pimp shit in the cab for mpg and miles to empty ect when using the tank stuff..




your installation is outstanding and ideal, mount the pcm so the connector is down and maybe just shield it a little. rat shack has a project box you can fit it into or just mod a rubbermaid container..not really necessary..cause the pcm's are tuff lil buggers.

its good to have a starter bypass though as in some situations when climbing with a low rpm load you need to crank it to keep going.


with an auto pcm its usually best to configure it so the pin 30 sees voltage when cranked.

to be clear...i wouldnt go to the trouble of mounting it in the kick panel, leave it out where it is...

Here is some pics Jim, hope they can be of assistance.