dana 28 to 35 swap ?

[Crashtest84]

So over the weekend I swapped my 28 for the 35 and also put on a 6 inch lift lil more info this is on a 84 reg cab 4x4 2.8 but my prob is that is looks like the axle is setting a lil bit forward the lift just has a drop bracket for the radius arms but I am making some longer arms but what do you guys think what could be the reason for this the one thing I see the most is the springs are not strait in line with the top of the bucket down to the axle I will get some pics up here in a lil bit to help

[4x4junkie]

The lift needs to have drop brackets for the axle pivots also.

[Crashtest84]

Ya its a complete kit with both brackets for the axle pivots and arms I used my radius arms off my 28 and saved the 35 arms to mod! But now I have another question with making longer radius arms how would you go about setting your front beams so that you know they are in line right I will have the abilaty to adj them but I never thought of the prob if it being pushed forward

[4x4junkie]

When I did mine, I just set it up so the passengerside axlebeam would clear behind the pivot bracket for the driverside by about 1", then made the radius arm for the driverside the same length.

This will put the axle slightly forward from stock, which has some benefits (more tire clearance at the firewall (if running big tires), slightly improved steering ackerman angles).

[Crashtest84]

ok here I got some pictures of what I got today it might help :dntknw:
front view and yes I know drop pittman arm... I got a custom superrunner style in the makings
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d195/coffin81/100_3282.jpg
radius arm drop
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d195/coffin81/100_3276.jpg
axle pivot
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d195/coffin81/100_3273.jpg
this is where I think my problem is see how the spring isn't strait in line
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d195/coffin81/100_3275.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d195/coffin81/100_3274.jpg

[4x4junkie]

I've seen worse...

The spring looks like it might not be seated properly on the lower mount though (is the nylon insulator in place?)

[Crashtest84]

ya but they are a lil bigger at the bottom then the stockers were so they didn't fit the best. Maybe I need to make a custom seat ?

I just read your page on your bronco and I have two questions it said you extended your front shock mount on the bottom or did I miss read it? You also said that you gained an inch of wheel base from the front ? sorry I have some many questions this is really my first 4x4 and im not so much a chassis guy I can build the motor and fab just about anything with the right info and tools

[4x4junkie]

ya but they are a lil bigger at the bottom then the stockers were so they didn't fit the best. Maybe I need to make a custom seat ?

I just read your page on your bronco and I have two questions it said you extended your front shock mount on the bottom or did I miss read it? You also said that you gained an inch of wheel base from the front ? sorry I have some many questions this is really my first 4x4 and im not so much a chassis guy I can build the motor and fab just about anything with the right info and tools

My lower front shock mounts are extended downward, yes (instead of mounted in the center of the arm like stock).
(some better pics)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v173/sfr4x4/th_bracket.jpg (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v173/sfr4x4/bracket.jpg)http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v173/sfr4x4/th_frontview.jpg (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v173/sfr4x4/frontview.jpg)

If you do this, just make sure you space the shock away from the arm enough so the shock body doesn't hit the arm on droop.

I moved my front axle as far forward as I could (via the radius arms) before it would hit the bracket I mentioned above. This will give about 1 - 1.5" more wheelbase over where it was stock.

[Crashtest84]

Ok so even if my arms have pushed the axle forward its no big deal kinda even a good thing maybe

[4x4junkie]

I think part of what's happening is you have the short stock radius arms on it in that pic, so it's going to rotate the beam forward more as it droops than if you have extended arms. That would make the coil look a bit more bowed as well.

I've had no issues out of the coils on either of mine (both have the frontend forward a bit), I think you'll be OK on that.

[Crashtest84]

Cool deal man thanks for the help I just kinda got the wheelin sickness not to long ago and I got this truck in a trade or free pretty much and the idea is to get 35"s on it like your BII what do you think about the 44 spindle swap on the 35 is it worth the trouble to get the better hub and bigger rotor ?

[4x4junkie]

I've got the 44 stuff on my Ranger (whole 44 axle actually) and the braking doesn't seem to be any better as far as stopping power goes (it's always been capable of locking up the front wheels if you step on it hard enough). To get more braking power (softer pedal), you'll probably have to change the master cylinder.

The 44's bigger rotors would of course have much better capacity to dissipate heat however. If you find yourself warping the D35 rotors often (while towing a trailer, etc.), it could be a worthwhile upgrade.

The D44 has the wider bearing spacing too, although I've never had any issues out of the D35 bearings. With proper setup, they seem to last just fine.

[scootr2200]

I'm going to bring this back up..

I'm wanting swap axles and put in the SJ 132X coils for a little lift as well. Is this possible with a Explorer D35 swap?

Also, what axle bushing are recommended for this combination?

Edit: I have a '86 4wd Ranger

Mickey

[4x4junkie]

I'm going to bring this back up..

I'm wanting swap axles and put in the SJ 132X coils for a little lift as well. Is this possible with a Explorer D35 swap?

Also, what axle bushing are recommended for this combination?

Edit: I have a '86 4wd Ranger

Mickey

You can use those coils with the D35 no problem.

You'll probably need bushings somewhere around 2°, but there's no way to know exactly until you take some measurements after putting the springs in.

[scootr2200]

Thanks!

Well, if I were to buy the SJ 0*-3.125* adjustable bushings, would those work or should I wait and buy a different set?

Also, I read that it was possible to the D35 forward rather then shortening the drive shaft? Can somebody elaborate more on this installation?

Mickey

[4x4junkie]

You can move the axle forward up to about an inch by shimming the radius arms forward at the bushings. Be sure to locktite the nut though as you will no longer be able to tighten it to bottom without crushing the bushing.

As for the 0-3.125° bushing, I think you're looking at a mis-labeled fixed-degree one, there is no adjustable-degree bushing that goes that high.

I would get the 2-piece Ingalls 594 or Moog K8986 bushings. These are fully-adjustable and go up to 2.5°.


BTW, I think the 132X coils are for the 4.0L V6 IIRC. Unless you have the 4.0 (or a V8 swap), I would get the 132 coils (less likely to be unalignable due to being too tall).

[scootr2200]

To shim the RA's, I assume stacking washers together gets the job done or is there another type of spacer that works better?

I bought a used set of coils from a boy who has the 2.3L in his truck, so they should work fine with my 2.9L.

What is needed to determine what degree bushing I will need? And is there a good how-to on installing the bushings?

Thanks for all the help!

Mickey

[4x4junkie]

Yeah, washers work good (you can see a couple washers ahead of the bushing in this pic)
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/6/web/702000-702999/702959_14.jpg (http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/6/web/702000-702999/702959_14_full.jpg)

To determine the size camber/caster bushing needed, you have to put your truck on an alignment machine and take some measurements.
This is why I like the 2-pc adjustable ones. If you need a different degree, you can just adjust it, you don't have to go through a whole bunch of work to find out what degree is needed ahead of time (especially if you're doing the alignment yourself).

[scootr2200]

Is there a detailed thread on how to swap this axle? I read the tech library but without it having any pictures, it's hard to understand.

Is it a direct swap from the Expo to the Ranger or is there anything special I will have to do? I hope that extending the RA's a bit will allow me to not have to lengthen my drive shaft. What do ya'll think?

Mickey