Clutch replacement problems

  • Thread starter Thread starter DangerRanger266
  • Start date Start date

DangerRanger266

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Hey i have a 1993 Ranger XLT 3.0 5-speed, i am attempting to replace the clutch but i cannot seem to get one bolt out of the transfer case where it attaches to the transmission, it is the top left it you are underneath the truck. also i am having problems with the quick disconnect, the little white ring is all the way in but the line will not pop off.
 
The clutch disconnect is stubburn. A lot of times once the ring is pushed in, you have to push in on the clutch line and then pull back out. It takes a couple times to get it.

As for the transmission bolt. There are 5 bolts total and an alignment dowel. I am wondering if your referring to the alignment dowl. IIRC it is on the driverside about 3/4 the way up the side of the transmission.

Is this where your getting hung up?
 
Nope, havent even gotten that far, it is a 13mm hex headed bolt on the top of the passengerside of the transmission where it mounts to the t-case. If you put a ratchet on it there is not enough swing to clear the tail of the transmission.
 
Perhaps try going in through the shifter boot hole?

Sometimes you just have to use a box-end wrench.
 
Thank you for the advice, i know im in the wrong forum for this but i figured while im here ill ask, has anyone ever replaced the oil pan in one of these, the Haynes says you have to completely pull the motor, is there any way to just lift it a few inches and maybe slide it out?
 
Well, maybe, but it REALLY isn't worth it.

Either you're going to have to unbolt the oil pump through a <2 inch gap and drop it in the pan, or you're going to have to yank the TRANSMISSION. Which is so close to just as much work as to not be worth the difference. And it's REALLY going to be fun to reconnect that oil pump....

And if you have to contort yourself when installing the oil pan, the new gasket is going to leak.

The variable you're missing is that the oil pump pickup is less than 1/2 inch above the lowest part of the pan. Take a look at your pan and see just how high you'll need to jack it up to get the pan off. At least the pan height, and then you won't have enough room in front to pull the pan out (you'll hit the rad support), so it will have to come out from behind. Hence the transmission removal.
 
I just recently replaced my oil pan and was able to jack up the motor just enough to clear the pan over the lower IFS subframe. No leaks.

However, I know TTB equipped Rangers have a different xmember, so MAKG is most likely right that it will not clear it.
 
Alright so it looks like its still going to suck, this truck is rusted beyond beleif and the tranny is coming out anyways, any little hints of advice for things to look out for besides the oil pump pickup?

Thanks for the advice
 
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