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heat sink looking collar on backside of disks


Defective

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Can anybody tell me what this collar around the inside of the rotors is?

It looks like a heat sink with fins going all around and it is pressed on.

Do I need to transfer this to my new rotors?
 


High Desert Ranger

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Can anybody tell me what this collar around the inside of the rotors is?

It looks like a heat sink with fins going all around and it is pressed on.

Do I need to transfer this to my new rotors?

ABS exciter ring, and yes if your new rotors don't have them and you have ABS you need it.
 

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Thank you.

Any suggestions as to how to get that off?

My ABS is inoperable right now anyway, will the disk suffer any ill effects by not instaling them?
 

AllanD

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If your new rotors do not have the rings they are the WRONG rotors and that ring cannot
be swapped over.

AD
 

Sasquatch_Ryda

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If your new rotors do not have the rings they are the WRONG rotors and that ring cannot
be swapped over.

AD
You could warm it up with a torch and slip it off and onto the new rotor, but yea the new ones should have the rings on them already if they are for an ABS equipped truck.
 

High Desert Ranger

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If your new rotors do not have the rings they are the WRONG rotors and that ring cannot
be swapped over.

AD
I sell rotors and from what I have seen the manufacturer of ours makes both ABS and non-ABS the same and only presses the ABS rings onto the ones for ABS.
 

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I ended up going to the parts store for some bearings, so I checked out what the other places had to offer....

CarQuest (B&C) - American made, with no ABS ring
NAPA - China made, with no ABS ring
Schucks - Canadian made, with ABS ring (105 bucks a piece though)

I ended up buying two sets of rotors in all, but the first ones are going back.

The rotors are pretty much identical except for that ring. I kept my old rotors, darn near 200,000 miles, but they are still turnable and I don't see any cracks. New races came with my bearings, so I'll press those in and have spare rotors I guess.


By the time I was done, I replaced rotors, calipers, pads, all four wheel bearings/races, shocks and repaired my ABS sensor wires. I really wanted new hoses, but I couldn't find any local. When I was bleeding the brakes, I could see them moving and flexing with the pressure. The master cylinder moves around a bit too, not sure what to make of that.

Bleeding went pretty ok, got a lot of the old fluid out. There was a big difference in the texture of the fluid. The old stuff, original AFAIK, was cloudy like it had moisture or bubbles in it. The peddle builds pressure really well, but it does sink down if you hold it.

Broke the brakes in with a series of 60-10 mph hard braking sessions, then a little lighter after they started to fade, never stopping completley to let material settle on the hot ass rotors. After that, cruized for a couple miles to let them cool back to normal. Braking is exceptional now, but I don't feel the rears doing much to hold me stable anymore.

All in all, it's feeling pretty darn good for a 12 year old truck with nearly 200,000 miles on it.
 

AllanD

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The canadian made rotors are probably manufactured by ITT-AIMCO
and they are some of the better rotors you can buy.

I won't buy rotors made in china, they tend to be "warp monsters"

American made rotors? probably Bendix, another good choice
though it has been alleged that
Bosch makes some rotors here, but for what I don't know

American made could also be AP, but those are often
made in England (Part of the same conglomerate as ATE(germany)
and Girling(England) and Lockheed.

AD
 

rat_ranger

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The easiest way to get the exciter ring off is just tap out the wheels studs and the push it off without warping it. I had to do this to install the rings on my cobra swap hubs.
 

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