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94 Ranger Manual Transmission Problems


Fla94Ranger

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Thanks for the forum - I have read quite a bit and enjoyed the comments.

Now, on to my particular situation (yes, I know everyone thinks theirs is unique).

I have a used '94 Ranger, the six cylinder 4.0l, manual transmission. We got this from the father-in-law with about 110,000 miles. He said that he had "just rebuilt the transmission". Zero problems until about 156,000 miles when the transmission crunched and died. Regular fluid checks, etc. I just figured it was another father-in-law deal. Bought a replacement from a company in Fl who enjoys a good reputation, builds race transmissions, etc, etc. Installed by a competent technician, new clutch, slave cylinder. All is happy until 198,000 miles - 3rd gear intermittently "misses" or grinds when shifting. Then 3rd gear is extremely noisy. Then... driving down the highway, major whine, crunch... no gears work except 4th.

My questions. Is there a particular technique to driving this transmission? I am in my 50's, been driving manuals all my life, don't hot rod, etc. I do use the transmission, downshifting before braking... is this a no-no?

Is there something about the transmissions? I know there can't be that many problems, yes?

There is a transmission for sale locally for a 2006 Ranger - manual, says it is for the 3.0, but from what I can tell, after the early 90's every year used the same transmission? Can I put the 2006 in a '94? It has 25,000 miles on it ... now I am a bit squeamish since that is about all I got off the last one!

I work on airplanes, not cars and trucks... so you guys are the experts here. Thanks in advance for your constructive comments.
 


racsan

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sounds like the countershaft went, the 3.0 trans wont work, they have a different bolt patteren on the bellhousing than the other small ford motors. you could possibly use parts from the good 3.0 trans and put in the 4.0 case but it would be easier to just find another trans that is ment for the 4.0 some of these transmissions go qiute awhile, others not so much. my '88 passed 200k without any issues while my '93 lost 2nd gear @ 80k, its replacement has issues downshifting from 5th to 4rth and 3rd to 2nd. goes up though the gears just fine. the only "care" i know about with this trans is to keep a good eye on oil level, change it yearly if you tow with it alot. im running mobil 1 synthetic atf in it currently, hoping it lives for the life of the truck.
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Explorin94

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I would ask the company what kind of warranty came with the rebuilt transmission? Second what was used for oil in the transmission? If it was anything other than ATF then that would explain the short life. You are old enough to know how to drive a standard transmission, so nothing has changed since you started driving some 34 years ago. I down shift all the time with mine and have never had a problem. I rebuilt mine almost 3 years ago with no problems. The 3.0 transmission's bell housing is different from your 4.0 so that won't work.
 

Fla94Ranger

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The company had a 1 year warranty, unlimited miles. It has been just over 2 years - so, that option is out, although I did call them and let them know the short mileage.

I pulled the plug and felt the oil - it was a clear type oil, not sure that necessarily means anything - I am not familiar enough with fluids to tell the difference.

Alas, it is definately metal "junque" at this point.

Thanks for the replies.
 

4x4RangerGuy

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It should be Dexron III automatic transmission fluid in there. Clear fluid? That would worry me as it's almost always red.
 

krugford

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Did it smell like gear oil? If it was a amber sorta clear fluid, it probably had the wrong fluid it in from the reman shop. Call them and ask what they using in their rebuilds nowadays....

They may not have caught onto the fact that most manuals are using ATF these days.
 

Fla94Ranger

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Pulled the plug again - yes, it is an amber, clearish liquid.

To be fair to the reman outfit - it was shipped via UPS dry. The paperwork that came with it said to be sure to put the "proper" oil in and verify no leaks. It did NOT say which type of fluid to use however. I passed the paperwork to the mechanic - an out of work friend who has lots of credentials - mostly Volvo though. I did verbally ask him about the fluid during installation and he gave me an answer that must of satisfied me at the time (it was 2 year 7 months ago).

So, as I go further back in my memory - the fluid in the "father-in-law" overhaul was also amber/clear.

Moral of this story - join groups like this before trusting skilled but clearly not all-knowing mechanics. Like I said, I work on airplanes - I know I am not adequately qualified to work on cars/trucks!

Looks like I get to make the rounds of the local junk yards.

Thanks for everyone's response - really appreciate it.
 
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4x4RangerGuy

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Pulled the plug again - yes, it is an amber, clearish liquid.

To be fair to the reman outfit - it was shipped via UPS dry. The paperwork that came with it said to be sure to put the "proper" oil in and verify no leaks. It did NOT say which type of fluid to use however. I passed the paperwork to the mechanic - an out of work friend who has lots of credentials - mostly Volvo though. I did verbally ask him about the fluid during installation and he gave me an answer that must of satisfied me at the time (it was 2 year 7 months ago).

So, as I go further back in my memory - the fluid in the "father-in-law" overhaul was also amber/clear.

Moral of this story - join groups like this before trusting skilled but clearly not all-knowing mechanics. Like I said, I work on airplanes - I know I am not adequately qualified to work on cars/trucks!

Looks like I get to make the rounds of the local junk yards.

Thanks for everyone's response - really appreciate it.
Ummm...I personally think your buddy is responsible. I mean, you took it to him and trusted him to do the job right. He should know, or at least look up if he doesn't know, the right fluid to use.

If he won't pay, I guess you're stuck. But man does that suck...I hope it works out for you!
 

michowski

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On your next trans if you decided to get this fixed is to use royal purple trans oil. They garuntee to extend the trans life by double from just using there oil. Ive got that stuff in my diffs, engine, trans, tranfer case. Everything is now working so smooth and effertlessly. Besides the oil I see nothing out of the ordinary here.
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MAKG

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And just how would you substantiate that you DIDN'T get twice as much life out of that?

You would need a time machine, or a LARGE randomized population of transmissions to try this out on.

There is no set lifetime for transmissions.

All your transmission needs is properly spec'd ATF. What does these in is owner neglect (particularly leaks), and the latest scam snake oil won't change that.
 

michowski

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They have tested and compared to other companies by dyno'ing, real life tests, ect. I was just as skeptical as you were but since switching I definatly notice an improvement for the better. http://www.royalpurple.com/techrp/summary.html

Im not saying this is the best stuff on the market but being a synthetic oil for one is a plus. The company definatly delivers what they say so far. As for the trans lasting twice as long I dont know if thats true. But everything else they state like better fuel mileage, lower friction in moving parts is true from real world driving. Im not hear to promote or start a war, im just saying after all the reading about it, and after finally using it myself now for like 5 months im definatly glad I went this route. My whole drivetrain feels like brand new. Well worth the money and still the oil looks like brand new and still has kept the same viscousity as when I opened the bottles the first time.
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Mutant Pony

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The pilot bearing is probably in the crank. This puts an extreme load on the input shaft and cluster. The place that replaced the clutch may not have noticed. Only the cologne engines have the pilot in the flywheel, It would be an easy mistake. And it would cause your problem.
 

jaymegriffiths

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mutant pony: what was necessary for your 3.0l swap? direct bolt in?
easy? recommended?any thing helps.
 

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