Opinions on steerign angle

I was lookin for opinions on guys that run a solid axle, with the steering angles beeing what they are in this picture, is it felt that this should go down the road alright, i will be adding steering stabilizers(they removed them for some reason).
the truck will be runnin 38.5 gumbo mudders when all is said and done, not the WHOOPED on 40's that are on the truck

or, should i look into a more of a drop pitman arm for it

Frankly, anyone who uses inverted-Y on a solid axle should have their vehicle impounded. It's VERY wrong.

The tie rod must go from knuckle to knuckle on a solid axle. Connect the drag link to the tie rod "somewhere" (near the passenger side knuckle is a conventional "crossover" and works well).

Inverted-Y geometry is wildly wrong for a solid axle, and it's not hard to see that every bump, even one straight-on, is going to push the toe outward quite a lot. The left side more than the right, so it will bump-steer left.

You want the pivots in the steering linkage to be on natural pivot axes in the suspension to avoid bump steer. This thing isn't even close.

MAKG said:

Frankly, anyone who uses inverted-Y on a solid axle should have their vehicle impounded. It's VERY wrong.

The tie rod must go from knuckle to knuckle on a solid axle. Connect the drag link to the tie rod "somewhere" (near the passenger side knuckle is a conventional "crossover" and works well).

Inverted-Y geometry is wildly wrong for a solid axle, and it's not hard to see that every bump, even one straight-on, is going to push the toe outward quite a lot. The left side more than the right, so it will bump-steer left.

You want the pivots in the steering linkage to be on natural pivot axes in the suspension to avoid bump steer. This thing isn't even close.

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its what i figured, many things on the truck have been completely..."redone" since i owned it last......tha mount of piney engineering im finding on this is just retarded, teh hitch on the back was ONLY welded on with a single bead down each side, and this is what they have been using to recover the truck with, but it was wort it even if i have to rework the entire steering and rear suspension (stacked blocks)

i admitadly dont have a vast experince with setting up a steering system on a solid axle truck, i didnt do the old one which is why im look for examples on how it should be done

if im undertanding properly, and i think i am



a steering system should be setup in this nature, with a tie rod being connected to a knuckle on each side, then there is the drag link which will connect the pitman arm to the tierod, also, im assuming i should be able to setup the knuckles to have the TRE's on top essentially like a high steer kit and that should have me all in all relatively level??

well, looks like i got my answer, it was suggested i use some dom piping, run chebbie tre's and custom fabricate it....cause i sure as shit and puttin out what they want for the eb steering stuff

yeah that set-up will ride horrible. Also want the drag link and the track bar as close to the same angle as possible. Here was my set-up before i went hi-steer and Chevy TREs. This was also with a stock pitman arm.



basically a solid arm between the knuckles

You can ream the ford knuckles to put the chevy tie rods on top for the added ground clearance. And you can ream the pitman arm to accept the same tie rods.

Holshotracer and i went in on making our steering our selves

$90 for a 20 foot peice of 1.25x.250 DOM
$20 for a drill bit to open the DOM up to get the taps into it
$120 for the two taps to thread the DOM to accept the Chevy Tie rods
I spent approx $50 on the four tie rods (i work for a shop so i got allt he parts at cost)
And we made our own jam nuts out of the dom using the taps.

I get a laugh out of people that reuse the TTB steering on solid axles.

They go through all the hassle & expense to swap out the whole axle & suspension, but then fail to swap out that one little thing that was causing all of their problems in the first place

Dropping the pitman arm down further will improve things on that above setup, but as said, it's not correct at all for a solid axle suspension.
Ideally you want the draglink to go directly to the passengerside knuckle, then a separate straight tierod from there to the driveside knuckle. The draglink must be parallel to the trackbar (panhard), and both should be as close to horizontal as practical.

ya, that is exactly what was suggested, u got any up close pics of the setup now

4x4junkie said:

I get a laugh out of people that reuse the TTB steering on solid axles.

They go through all the hassle & expense to swap out the whole axle & suspension, but then fail to swap out that one little thing that was causing all of their problems in the first place

Dropping the pitman arm down further will improve things on that above setup, but as said, it's not correct at all for a solid axle suspension.
Ideally you want the draglink to go directly to the passengerside knuckle, then a separate straight tierod from there to the driveside knuckle. The draglink must be parallel to the trackbar (panhard), and both should be as close to horizontal as practical.

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well, when it was originally built it had the EB steering stuff fabricated to work.....that was 2 years ago and a few......not so intelligent....owners


also, dont u think i could get a machine shop to thread those ends for alot cheaper then the cost of the taps would be???

we bought the taps cause it is cheaper for us both to make our own steering set-ups and as well to make spares.....

And suprizinggly the majority of machine shops do not have the taps needed to thread the DOM

Junkie that steering style in the first pic was found stock on some 75-77 Ford Fullsize 4x4's. when i bought my 77 axle it came with that style steering still on it orig.

CheapThrillB2 said:

we bought the taps cause it is cheaper for us both to make our own steering set-ups and as well to make spares.....

And suprizinggly the majority of machine shops do not have the taps needed to thread the DOM

Junkie that steering style in the first pic was found stock on some 75-77 Ford Fullsize 4x4's. when i bought my 77 axle it came with that style steering still on it orig.

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well, there arent many places to get DOM around here, i gotta drive 45 mins for the closest place, but there prices on steel is AWESOME, so, i bet i could ahve them thread the inside for me when i pick it up

We have not done the tie rod flip yet on the ford knuckles. getting ready to on holshotracers knuckles for his 44. I am using chevy flat top knuckles and am using hi-steer arms.

Pirate has several great tech articles on various steering set-ups using the chevy TREs

i reference these quite a bit
http://www.partsmike.com/old/tre_comparison.htm

CheapThrillB2 said:

We have not done the tie rod flip yet on the ford knuckles. getting ready to on holshotracers knuckles for his 44. I am using chevy flat top knuckles and am using hi-steer arms.

Pirate has several great tech articles on various steering set-ups using the chevy TREs

i reference these quite a bit
http://www.partsmike.com/old/tre_comparison.htm

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so, from the looks of it, ill need a es2233L, and 3 es2234r's, looks like that would pretty much make up what i would need as far as TRE's for the whole steering setup, then id just ahve to fabricate steering stabilizers for the system, and it should go down the road like a cadillac

no, you would need two L's and two R's in order to be able to make adjustments. The L and R are for the thread angle. So each steering arm would need an L and an R in order to adjust the Toe etc....

CheapThrillB2 said:

Junkie that steering style in the first pic was found stock on some 75-77 Ford Fullsize 4x4's. when i bought my 77 axle it came with that style steering still on it orig.

Click to expand...

old flat fender jeeps too

CheapThrillB2 said:

no, you would need two L's and two R's in order to be able to make adjustments. The L and R are for the thread angle. So each steering arm would need an L and an R in order to adjust the Toe etc....

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ah, alright, i never did bother to notice the difference in the directions of the thread on them.