carburetor help... please

Wagonguy · Apr 20, 2008

ok, heres my story, i bought my B2 for $500, dude said all that was wrong with it was the idler screws were stripped, and needed an oil change...

welp... so far i have bought spark plugs, air filter, carb from pick and pull (rebuilt once) changed oil, negative battery cable, and both terminals, throttle body spacer, and yet, still gives me problems...

my buddy says that the choke is opening up too fast, and too wide, and my older brother says that the kickback sensor (i think thats what its called) is screwy... anyone here have any suggestions?

i heard the electronic choke setup is complicated on this truck, is there and easier way to make it where its not all electrical?

any help would be appreciated, cuz i bought this damn thing to drive me back and forth to school and work, but it hasnt done that yet...

igiveup · Apr 20, 2008

Hello

Its not a complicated setup its a POS setup. I also have an B2. Look at doing a duraspark conversion. http://therangerstation.com/tech_library/2_8Duraspark.html .
Its not hard to do. Where do you live? Some places you have to worry about emmission testing. My 85 B2 I change to duraspark and left the POS carb on for now and it runs a 100% better. I have to change the trany before I get a carb. Try bumping your timing up by 5 degrees and see what happens. My buddy is a mechanic and told me to try that . When he own his it made a world of difference.

igiveup

Good luck and have fun with your toy.

Original_Ranger84 · Apr 23, 2008

You could put in a manual choke from napa. Thats what I did and it works pretty good, well saves gas from not a superhigh Idle, the engine still stutters by the time i get into town and park at school.

Wagonguy · Apr 23, 2008

Original_Ranger84 said:
You could put in a manual choke from napa. Thats what I did and it works pretty good, well saves gas from not a superhigh Idle, the engine still stutters by the time i get into town and park at school.

thats my problem, it runs fine until i get into town.... then it sputters a lil :shout:

bigjon · Jan 9, 2011

idle problems when warmed up

When my 1984 Ford Ranger gets warm up it will not idle enough to stay cranked. I have checked my hoses on carb. any suggestions? :icon_hornsup:

kimcrwbr1 · Jan 9, 2011

Try adjusting the idle air screws after it is up to temp, disconnect the idle motor and turn the idle air jets out for the highest rpm or vacuum pressure usually around three or so turns it should idle right down when you plug the motor back in. do that a couple of times until the rpm/vacuum only drops when you turn it in. Then with the motor plugged in turn the truck off and the plunger should fully extend. unplug the motor and start the motor this is curb idle adjust the motor position for correct curb idle rpm. If you pull the filter housing you must keep the IAT sensor plugged in to make all adjustments. The choke has to be fully open also once you get the carb tuned then you can mess with the choke. when it is cold start it put the throttle half way down and start it confirm the high idle cam is on the V notch and the butterfly is around 5/32 open and adjust the high idle speed and adjust the spring tension on the choke thermostat to fully open after the engine is around 3/4 up to temp. Also check the idle air screws count the turns in then back out, they should be within 1/2 a turn or you have vacuum or carb issues

kimcrwbr1 · Jan 9, 2011

You said you rebuilt the carb did you adjust the wet float pull the top off the carb and measure from the top of the float bowl to the center of the fuel you want between 3/4 and 7/8, 7/8 if you do alot of wheelin. You can run the motor with the top off the carb to establish the wet float adjustment the dry float gest it running the wet float gives you performance and is the first thing you need to do when adjusting the carb.

dangerranger83 · Jan 9, 2011

Mine wouldnt idle correctly or at the right speed until I adjusted my timing a bit.

Another thing with running a manual choke is you can have the high idle, mine worked at one time but I need to adjust the linkage stuff so that it does it again. When it did work, all I did was pull the choke knob till th choke was closed, atarted her and it would high idle, plus I was able to push the choke knob in immediatly and have the choke fully open for high idle.

I will say mine runs at 800rpm, and will never run as smooth as todays current vehicles, has it sputters here and there but nothing that effects it when driving or taking off.

sirjeremyjohnson · Jan 9, 2011

Im pretty sure my idle motor doesnt do anything. It never moves, also my choke isnt auto by any means. I get in push the gas and start her and she idles high until i tap the gas again, then goes to normal. ANd if i have my a/f screws set out three turns she wont run at all. Its closer to 7 turns. New carb time? what do yall think?

kimcrwbr1 · Jan 9, 2011

If you want to adjust the timing go toward the retarded side. As the damper rubber gets old time and pressure pull it in the advanced position so when your set on 10 degrees it may be on 15 try retarding the timing a couple degrees at a time and readjust the carb until you find the sweet spot. if it pre-ignites when you shut it off your too far advanced.

carburetor help... please

Wagonguy

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igiveup

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Original_Ranger84

Active Member

Wagonguy

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bigjon

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kimcrwbr1

Well-Known Member

kimcrwbr1

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dangerranger83

5.0 HO under the hood!!!

sirjeremyjohnson

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kimcrwbr1

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