Best bolt on mods?

[motoxchamp]

I'm looking to do some mods to my 4.0 sohc manual ranger. I don't own one yet but I'm trying to figure out how much I will be spending. I definately will get a cold intake, exhaust, tbs, and mabye a programmer, headers, and mass air flow sensor. I'm trying to stay on a budget so keep that in mind.
-Cold air intake: Who makes the BEST and how much? Do the ones with those tubes that funnel air from under your head lights to the filter make a difference?

-Exhaust: What is the best performing exhaust that is still very quiet. My last exhaust was increadibly annoying. It sounded beechin but on the freeway and around town that drooning noise was very annoying.

-Throttle Body: Is there a best tbs? Is there a difference in the performance of a tbs verses one of those vortex things you put in your intake system? How much of a difference?

-Programmer: What is the best out there? Will this affect the reliability of my engine? Can this be used in culmination with towing or will it cause my engine to overheat? My last Hyper III caused my s10 4.3 to idle funny and bog or rev wierd but I totaled the truck before I could figure out exactly what was wrong.

-Headers: How difficult are they to install? Will it make a big difference with the other mods I plan on doing? Will headers make my ride louder or are there performance headers that retain the stock decible level?

-Mass air flow sensor: Are these worth the $350? Can't I just remove the screen on my stock sensor? I've heard that if I do that that my check engine light will come on but other than that are there any other problems?

-Other Mods: Any other budget conscious mods I could do to my truck?

[MAKG]

You're on a budget AND you want to tow with this thing.

Don't do any of it. They are all HIGH RPM modifications that will make towing less than effective.

The programmer might do something, but very little in isolation. The rest are paperweights.

It IS possible to make your engine more powerful but (a) it takes a lot more than buying a $300 paperweight, and (b) you DON'T WANT a more powerful engine if you are towing. How much time are you REALLY going to spend at 6000 RPM? This is a system and by guessing at how to optimize it, you'll make a pretty nice small truck engine into a POS.

[BDAB]

You're on a budget AND you want to tow with this thing.

Don't do any of it. They are all HIGH RPM modifications that will make towing less than effective.

The programmer might do something, but very little in isolation. The rest are paperweights.

It IS possible to make your engine more powerful but (a) it takes a lot more than buying a $300 paperweight, and (b) you DON'T WANT a more powerful engine if you are towing. How much time are you REALLY going to spend at 6000 RPM? This is a system and by guessing at how to optimize it, you'll make a pretty nice small truck engine into a POS.

I agree with this 100% and I would only use a programmer or a chip with an automatic and that is just to change the shift points.

Better gears and playing with the cam timing. Maybe Tri-y headers. thats it and that all you need to do with the 4.0L SOHC

[motoxchamp]

thanks for the input. But will an exhaust, mass air flow, tbs or intake really HURT? I can't see how they would, after all those mods are only allowing the engine to breathe better. And when I say budget I mean I dont want to spend over $2k.

[BDAB]

then spend 2K on a used super charger. if you are going to use this truck to tow all those mods will do is hurt your towing ability.

[samsonitesamsonite]

what they mean is all those mods will do is raise your power curve and make it so that you have to be in a higher rpm range to create your power.

[motoxchamp]

Thanks 4 the help. I've done a bit of research on this forum and another and I think I'm going to get a pulley system, bama chip, and maybe an electric fan. From what I have read all of these will help my towing. Will these mods affect my mpg? Will a cold air intake improve my mpg? What are the cons of an electric fan? I want my truck to remain pretty quiet and heard that the e fans are loud. Is this true or does it just vary depending on the manufacturer of the fan.

[DK27]

I don't quite understand. If towing is the big worry what is your current gear set? Wouldn't going to a 4.56 or possible 5.13 or something that is lower than what you have now be the best thing?

[motoxchamp]

Towing is a concern but I would never tow more that 4k lbs and the automatic 4.0l sohc is rated at over 5k lbs. I want to get more performance out of my truck while either improving or not hindering my towing. I'd also like to find out if there are ways to improve mpg. Changing gears is costly and too extensive for the gains I'm looking for.

[DK27]

You mentioned 2K though. You should be able to get the grears done for well WELL under that. I don't think you're going to get any real gains in MPG with the 4.0L =)

[motoxchamp]

My diesel has towing gears in it and I love it for towing but miss it when I drive without the trailer on the highway. Luckily that thing is used almost exclusively for towing the 28' toyhauler. My ranger will be towing a much smaller trailer and will also be a daily driver. So no on the gears.

[DK27]

My diesel has towing gears in it and I love it for towing but miss it when I drive without the trailer on the highway. Luckily that thing is used almost exclusively for towing the 28' toyhauler. My ranger will be towing a much smaller trailer and will also be a daily driver. So no on the gears.

Gotcha

[MAKG]

Wow, you really are determined to spend money, aren't you?

1. Smaller pulleys. These are REGULATED systems. All of them. Which means they will suck as much power from the engine as they need to accomplish the commanded task. It will make NO DIFFERENCE unless you max out the regulation (which means, you lose steering assist, brown out your electrical system, undercool your air conditioner, and so on).

2. Electric fans. If you want to pull less air through the radiator, you can make some gains. If you want to pull THE SAME air through the radiator, you will slow your engine down with the alternator instead of the water pump. By the SAME AMOUNT (well, actually more since there are losses especially in the rectifier). Most electric fans are substantially less powerful than your stock mechanical fan. Which means reduced cooling capacity. Not a good idea when towing.

3. Cold air intake. YOU ALREADY HAVE ONE. Oh, it doesn't have that oh-so-trendy K&N logo on it. And it doesn't suck WARM air from behind the radiator. It takes it in from a very boring and not very visible spot near the passenger side headlamp.

I mean this in all honesty. If you really want to spend $2000, it would be far better spent on a basic engineering or physics course. The stuff you are looking at is ALMOST COMPLETELY wrong for the purposes you have stated. You're not building an 8000 RPM race truck. You're building a tow vehicle. Which is what it was designed to do.

[motoxchamp]

MAKG you are wrong. I'm not building a tow truck. I'm looking to increase the performance of my truck while improving or maintaing the towing capabilities of a stock 4l sohc. I will not be towing over 4k lbs. This truck like I said b4 is only going to tow on weekends for my MX racing or practice. I spoke with someone else who has a pulley system and electric fan and he swears he has more power and 2mpg better fuel consumption. I'm gaing to be a new owner of a ranger soon and am just looking for the best way to spend my money so instead of talking down to newcumbers try giving them some constructive advice.

So far I am pretty sure I am getting a bama programmer with performance and towing programming. Beyond that I am not sure I am getting different opinions from different people. I was told on another forum that the ford Mark VIII and some aftermarket e fans pull LESS amps than stock. Any truth to this? What about the reguation thing concerning the pulleys? I don't understand why they wouldn't help with fuel consumption and power. Please explain it more clearly.

[Bob Ayers]

MAKG you are wrong. I'm not building a tow truck. I'm looking to increase the performance of my truck while improving or maintaing the towing capabilities of a stock 4l sohc. I will not be towing over 4k lbs. This truck like I said b4 is only going to tow on weekends for my MX racing or practice. I spoke with someone else who has a pulley system and electric fan and he swears he has more power and 2mpg better fuel consumption. I'm gaing to be a new owner of a ranger soon and am just looking for the best way to spend my money so instead of talking down to newcumbers try giving them some constructive advice.

So far I am pretty sure I am getting a bama programmer with performance and towing programming. Beyond that I am not sure I am getting different opinions from different people. I was told on another forum that the ford Mark VIII and some aftermarket e fans pull LESS amps than stock. Any truth to this? What about the reguation thing concerning the pulleys? I don't understand why they wouldn't help with fuel consumption and power. Please explain it more clearly.


If you know it all, why did you ask for help?:D

MAKG's assessment about "performance mods" is right on!!! The intakes, K&N air filters, underdrive pulleys, and e-fans are all a waste!
It's only human nature not to admit that they screwed up, and threw their money away on useless mods!! With CAFE standards today, vehicle manufacturers design their vehicles to be as efficient as possible!

An e-fan is the worst thing for towing! Just look at the vehicles designed for towing (diesels) and see how many of them only have an e-fan!!

For substantial performance gains, you have to spend big $$$:

1) Engine displacement increase
2) Go to forced induction
3) Increase compression
4) Increase cam lift, duration and overlap (you loose low-end, gain high-end).

[MAKG]

Well, no, it's not possible for an electric fan to draw fewer amps than a mechanical fan, because a mechanical fan draws ZERO amps. It's not electrical.

You're making the extremely common confusion between forces and energy. Same deal with the underdrive pulleys. Think of it this way. Suppose you have to lift a heavy weight off the ground. You can decrease the forces you need to do it by using a block and tackle. But it takes longer -- in proportion -- and requires the same total energy to lift the weight the same height off the ground.

Power is the rate of mechanical energy production. It is NOT the rate of acceleration. It is NOT the force (well, torque) you impart to the axles. To a large extent, it determines top speed (and I simply must emphasize this -- at the power peak), since that is closely related to the energy production rate. It says NOTHING by itself about how fast you get there....

You can't design a system for which you can't describe its uses. What RPM will you be running this engine at?

[motoxchamp]

Most of the time it will be cruising at about 75mph since about 90% of my miledge will be on the highway. But I wasnt to be able to really hammer the throttle when I don't have the trailer. That is why I will most likely get the bama programmer. Thanks for your advice. I believe what you are saying is true my only problem is I don't understand why so many people would claim false info when they don't benefit from it. I've been reading on this forum and others how people improve their gas miledge with pulleys and CAI's and e fans. How is it that so many people could be wrong? Why would they lie about a product that if I purchase they gain nothing from.

[MAKG]

The users aren't lying (at least for the most part). They are just wrong. It comes from sloppy uncontrolled subjective measurements, much like the "placebo effect" -- many people think they are cured of sometimes very serious illnesses when given sugar pills and told they will have a certain effect (it's a routine effect documented in medical clinical trials).

Others may not want to admit -- even to themselves -- that they have fallen for a scam.

It's also an age-old trick to try to turn people's brains off with big words and misleading statements. K&N deserves particular scorn for this, but they are hardly alone. It means you should take all performance claims by someone trying to sell you something very, very cautiously.

There are worse claims on the Net. Like the "Turbonator," "electric supercharger" (AKA bilge pump), and especially the $20 "chips" (actually resistors) sold on E-bay.

If you want passing capabilities, you can directly affect acceleration without touching the engine by lowering the gear ratio or tire size. You can do both for your budget, even with top of the line tires and a 4WD (which requires two sets of gears).

If you want to be really cheap, downshift. The 4.0L isn't a particularly high revving engine, but it will do 4000 RPM, and will pass nicely there. The powerband starts above 2000 RPM, so use that manual transmission to keep you there all the time (it's amazing how natural it is to drive this engine slower). This is completely free with a stick, and I'd urge you to try it before making any modifications whatsoever. It is nearly equivalent to a gear change, except for a takeoff from a dead stop (since you can't downshift in 1st). And when you want to pass on the highway, shift into 4th. Or 3rd. It will do fine at 65 MPH in 3rd, even for long distances (BTDT, quite necessary in high mountains uphill).

Never tow heavy loads in 5th, even at highway speed. The transmission is strongest in 4th. It's even more important for automatic transmissions (you want to keep the torque converter locked up or it will make a lot of heat).

If your truck needs any repairs, do those first as well.

[motoxchamp]

ok thanks. So the only mod that is certain is a bama chip. Now will a cold air intake or exhaust improve my power if I use them in culmination with a programmer? I know you say that they make no difference but does that apply to stock or any application?

[MAKG]

Tuned intake and exhaust components can make a difference at the high end, but the intake in question is not tuned. The exhaust may be, but for high RPM.

Your engine breathes just fine at any stock RPM. Have you actually run out of air on this thing?

The programmer is mainly useful for removing the rev limiter and using a more aggressive timing curve in the presence of other mods. But if you aren't even screwing with the camshaft, your results will be quite limited. You can make it advance a bit more, but it will require premium fuel.

I still say you're going about this backwards. You seem to WANT to spend money. That's the goal here more than anything else. What do you want your truck to DO for you? If you want acceleration, don't screw with a system you haven't analyzed and don't understand. Leave the engine alone. There are A LOT of mistakes you can make. Some of them will blow up your engine. Screw with your shifting first.

And for God's sake make sure the truck is in good working order.

I don't think it is even a slightly good idea to modify a system you don't understand, especially based on a lot of manufacturer's hype and wild myths.

You SEEM to be looking for acceleration, though you have yet to say so. You do not want power modifications for that.

[Bird]

I don't think it is even a slightly good idea to modify a system you don't understand, especially based on a lot of manufacturer's hype and wild myths.


And it's also a bad idea to make generalizations about engine systems that you've got no experience with. I know that you do have an old 4.0 OHV and it isn't a high rev'er in stock form, but the SOHC 4.0 that the thread starter is talking about upgrading redlines over 6k and the power curve continues well past that of the old 4.0 OHV (higher compression, better flowing exhaust ports, overhead cams). There also have been several 'substantiated' examples of power and mileage gains with the UD pullies and the BamaChip tuners with no detrimental effects - just because you haven't tested them and seen the gains yourself doesn't mean that it doesn't happen.

As far as electric fans go, for towing, I can only offer my own experiences with several 4.0's (OHV and SOHC) - never had a cooling problem with one and during summer driving, the elec. fan is a pleasure over the drain in power the clutch fan put's on the motor - with no overheating problems.

My 05 Silverado Crew Cab easily tows my bass boat all over Tx. and La. in summer heat without even a bobble in the temp gauge with it's ELECTRIC FANS.

TB's, CAI's, MAF's and other items are pretty much a waste of money on the newer vehicles. Exhaust systems are good mostly for noise unless you're dealing with an older 4.0 OHV that needs all the help it can get in the exhaust port flow.

Bird

[Bob Ayers]

My 05 Silverado Crew Cab easily tows my bass boat all over Tx. and La. in summer heat without even a bobble in the temp gauge with it's ELECTRIC FANS.


Bird


That's because it's got a mechanical fan on it also. Try taking the mechanical fan off, and run with just the e-fans.

[motoxchamp]

i woudnt run an e fan by itself.

[Bird]

That's because it's got a mechanical fan on it also. Try taking the mechanical fan off, and run with just the e-fans.


Want to bet some money on that?


You , also, need to do some homework before spouting what you don't know about.

Bird

ps. The Lightning in my sig runs just a single electric fan in the heat here in Tx., La. and even the high, dry mountains of NM. with much more horsepower and load - never a problem with overtemps............

[Bob Ayers]

Want to bet some money on that?


You , also, need to do some homework before spouting what you don't know about.

Bird

ps. The Lightning in my sig runs just a single electric fan in the heat here in Tx., La. and even the high, dry mountains of NM. with much more horsepower and load - never a problem with overtemps............


The Chevy came from the factory with a mechanical fan, just like the lightning did.

[Bird]

The Chevy came from the factory with a mechanical fan, just like the lightning did.

Like I said - go do your homework - the 2005's came from the factory with dual elec. fans. I've even swapped a set of them into my friends 04' to replace his mechanical fan setup and he's had no problems either.

Yes, the Lightning came with a mechanical fan, but it was replaced over a year ago with an elec unit and it's been great ever since.

That's twice now, Bob......................


Bird

[Bob Ayers]

Like I said - go do your homework - the 2005's came from the factory with dual elec. fans.

That's twice now, Bob......................


Bird

Since your so bright Bird, tell us why they sell fan clutches for 2005 Silveradoes!!

The fact you have a GM product shows your intelligence!!!:haha:

[Bird]

Since your so bright Bird, tell us why they sell fan clutches for 2005 Silveradoes!!

The fact you have a GM product shows your intelligence!!!:haha:


It's a shame that you have to resort to inuendo and such to try and make up for your lack of 'knowledge' ..................rather childish of you to try and diminish someone else when you have other varieties of vehicles yourself.

The fan clutches are sold for the regular cab and the 4.8L V8 models - even a few 5.3 models had them.

Maybe you can explain the factory wiring harness for the elec fans - even in the 2004 model that we swapped in a set of 05 fans into.

Bird

[motoxchamp]

ladies ladies please... Bird, how do those new lighning fans work? I want something that will be very quiet and usually dtuff from the factory keeps that in mind. Is the function of the lightning fan better than any other fan out there? How loud is it? Is it quieter than the stock mechanical ford 4.0 fan?

[Bird]

ladies ladies please... Bird, how do those new lighning fans work? I want something that will be very quiet and usually dtuff from the factory keeps that in mind. Is the function of the lightning fan better than any other fan out there? How loud is it? Is it quieter than the stock mechanical ford 4.0 fan?


It's the same fan used on the Lincolns - 2 speed. Cools very well when properly mounted in the shroud - I actually cannot recall it ever switching to high speed. A lot of the Lightning guys use them with no ill effects.
As far as noise goes, it's not noisy at all (used in the Lincoln), but then, with the whine of the supercharger and the Bassani exhaust, it's hard to hear much else. I've switched on the hi speed while in the staging lanes before and you can hear it, but not very loud.

I've heard that it's very similar to the 2 speed fan that the Tauruses used. To get proper cooling effect, it has to be mounted in the shroud so that it's pulling through the entire radiator - not flat up against the radiator.

I had a 16" elec fan in my 04 Edge 4.0 SOHC with the M90 supercharger on it and had no problems with the La. summer heat last year - even towing my bass boat a couple of times.


Bird

[Bob Ayers]

It's a shame that you have to resort to inuendo and such to try and make up for your lack of 'knowledge' ..................rather childish of you to try and diminish someone else when you have other varieties of vehicles yourself.

The fan clutches are sold for the regular cab and the 4.8L V8 models - even a few 5.3 models had them.

Maybe you can explain the factory wiring harness for the elec fans - even in the 2004 model that we swapped in a set of 05 fans into.

Bird

Ok, here is my proof, where is yours??????? Looks like it's more than just the 4.8L, and a few 5.3L models.......

http://bob-ayers.smugmug.com/photos/190395497-L.jpg

[Bird]

Thing is, I never said they didn't put them in the Silverado - you're the one that said they don't put the elec fans in.

Now Bob - do a search for elec fans for the 05+ models.............

Proof ??? Well, I've got factory elec fans in mine, pulled a set out another wrecked one and have seen others at the Chevrolet dealership where I worked last year...good enough for me.

Bird

ps. You still haven't explained the factory elec fan harnesses..............

[Bob Ayers]

Thing is, I never said they didn't put them in the Silverado - you're the one that said they don't put the elec fans in.

Now Bob - do a search for elec fans for the 05+ models.............

Proof ??? Well, I've got factory elec fans in mine, pulled a set out another wrecked one and have seen others at the Chevrolet dealership where I worked last year...good enough for me.

Bird

ps. You still haven't explained the factory elec fan harnesses..............

I've given proof about the mechanical fans on 2005 Silveradoes!! If you
reread my original post, I said they had a mechanical fan also!!

You haven't proven SQAT on the wiring harnesses!!!

[Bird]

I've given proof about the mechanical fans on 2005 Silveradoes!! If you
reread my original post, I said they had a mechanical fan also!!

You haven't proven SQAT on the wiring harnesses!!!


No Bob, reread your own original post: "That's because it's got a mechanical fan on it also. Try taking the mechanical fan off, and run with just the e-fans."

Never had a mech fan on it and many others didn't also. Bought it this way off the dealer's lot with just the elec fans and the hvy duty towing pkg.

I do, however, understand your innate need to be the ultimate expert on everything on this site, so I'll just bow to your vast knowledge and let others decide what they need for their vehicles from actual factual information presented, not just hearsay.


Bird

[motoxchamp]

Man is it getting hot in here. Can you old hens stop clucking already lol. Bob you may have your opinions but it doesn't seem that you have any personal experience with running these e fans and are going off of heresay. Perhalps those that have had problems didn't install them properly or used the improper wiring kit.

Bird you mentioned something about the lincoln 2 fans? What model and year? Are you talking about the Lincoln Mark VIII? Is the lighning electric fan better, the same, or worse than the lincoln set up? Does this fan require a special wiring harness? Do I need a different alternator? Thanks

[Bird]

Man is it getting hot in here. Can you old hens stop clucking already lol. Bob you may have your opinions but it doesn't seem that you have any personal experience with running these e fans and are going off of heresay. Perhalps those that have had problems didn't install them properly or used the improper wiring kit.

Bird you mentioned something about the lincoln 2 fans? What model and year? Are you talking about the Lincoln Mark VIII? Is the lighning electric fan better, the same, or worse than the lincoln set up? Does this fan require a special wiring harness? Do I need a different alternator? Thanks

The Lightning E-fans are kits that we get from aftermarket dealers. I'll try to get some info on them and get back to you either here or over on the other site.


Bird

[BDAB]

best power mod I ever made to any vehicle is chrome wheels. the toyota in my sig can out accelerate and F-15 and out corner an F-22 Raptor (where is the shakes head smiley).

Bird, I am calling you out on this. Lets see that Silverado tow that Bass Boat over Eisenhower or Vail pass in colorado. Come back and tell me how those electric fans do. If electric fans were really better then the trucking industry WOULD be using them....... as I have yet to see it in Fleet Owner Magazine, it will be safe to say that the trucking industry does not use them.

There are a few of us in here that either tow for a living or work on the vehicles that tow for a living. Every single one of us will tell you that there is no freaking way in hell an electrical fan will out perform a mechanical fan.

and just because the dealer installs it doesn't mean it is a good idea, Rush peterbuilt sells Lucas oil stablizer...... Lucas ****s up the oil filters and causes them to pop the by-pass valve allowing contaminated oil into the engine earlier than normal.

MotoXChamp......... you want an engine that can accelerate, that 4.0L SOHC is it, keep it wound up and learn to use the transmission. get lower (numerically higher) gears for it and you won't need to do the other things. All those other mods are only important if you plan on spinning the engine at 9000 rpms. I had a 91 explorer sitting on 31's with 3.73's and I whooped the holy hell out of a V8 Lexus SUV going over fourth of July pass on I-90 in Idaho over 100 mph, the only mod was a device with a switch that allowed me to shut off the the VSS and an autometer 140 mph speedo (ask teffie, she was with me when I did this)

OHV, SOHC, DOHC....... it doesn't matter, you want any gas engine to perform, keep it would up and learn to use the power curve. you factory computer is sufficient for the cam, you do not need a chip.

Again you do not need to make any mods to that engine....... it is sufficient. All you need to do is learn how to drive it.

[woodyedmiston]

I'm going to have to side with MAKG - and by the way it's impolite to just tell someone they are wrong - you can disagree and still be polite.

Now - Dude - your Ranger comes with: transmission oil cooler, power steering cooler, external oil cooler. a fan designed to go with the cold air box under the radiator and the fan shroud. The cam, valve timing and ignition is comparable to what was a few years ago - racing equipment. This is especially true of the high voltage ignition. They are everything an MSD ($1500 aftermarket) system like what was used in NASCAR and TRANSAM a few years back. Those were all designed by award winning engineers to work together as a system. Then they put their reputation on the line by rating the system to tow whatever it is rated to tow. If you have a short wheelbase Ranger you don't need to pull anything bigger than a 19 foot boat anyway. I spent several years working with a factory race team - the factory people have their business together when it comes to their product. All you need to tow with your Ranger is a good ball of the right size - maybe a good hitch and some stick on blind spot mirrors.

I've owned 5 Rangers and an Explorer since 1990 - all of them performed wonderfully without any modification. Moving the torque curve up only makes the car harder to drive - just ask the guys running normally aspirated 2 liter cars in GTU - and it will suck gasoline like a rockstar does crack.

[Bird]

Good - another 'the factory got it right the first time' people - (but, if the factory designs an elec fan setup, did they screw up?). I won't argue that we have great parts in these engines that weren't available even a few years ago - I've been working on them for quite a while now, but have you ever actually opened up the code in the PCM and checked out the spark and fuel tables? Lot's of room for improvement there as most stuff is a compromise to CAFE standards and with judicious adjustments to the tune, the torque curve can very easily be improved down low and extended upwards somewhat for improved towing without harming 'normal' driving MPG. Been there, done that many times on a dyno and through real world testing and have also seen other tuners do the same thing - it's not all smoke and mirrors.

These forums are here to give 'factual' advice to people looking for answers - I give that advice based on actually working with the engines / transmissions that I advise others on - not just vague generalities based on overall theory or experience on a different combination that has nothing to do with the specifics in question. If I don't have actual experience with it - I keep my mouth shut and let others handle it.

Bird

[BDAB]

Good - another 'the factory got it right the first time' people - (but, if the factory designs an elec fan setup, did they screw up?).


no we are not, and we are the first ones to bash ford's choice of automatic transmissions for the RBV. and yes, if Ford, GM, or Dodge did the set up then they probably ****ed that up too.

[Bob Ayers]

There are a few of us in here that either tow for a living or work on the vehicles that tow for a living. Every single one of us will tell you that there is no freaking way in hell an electrical fan will out perform a mechanical fan.



Very true!!!

[samsonitesamsonite]

only one warning here. PLAY NICE. or there will be no more playing in this thread

[Sdude2008]

Man how about you get the dang truck first? This guy changes what he wants on each reply... to the point of being silly...

"I'm looking to do some mods to my 4.0 sohc manual ranger. I don't own one yet but I'm trying to figure out how much I will be spending."

:icon_confused:

[94redranger]

will aftermarket headers on a 94 4.0 help the low end power? I agree i will maybe bring my truck up to a max of 3000 rpm on my daily drive, but having more power in the low end would be nice.

[94redranger]

wow

[AllanD]

Underdrive pullies are a joke because of what MAKG said, particularly in
regards to the alternator, if you spin it more slowly the regulator will
simply increase the field current to compensate and it'll actually INCREASE the drag.

The power steering pump has a relief valve so at any reasonable engine rpm
you would be going straight and when the steering isn't being exerted you
could spin the pump wiht your fingertip.

On RBV's '94 and up the A/C system uses a cycling clutch, meaning the
compressor is intentionally cycled on and off with a pressure switch and
the cycling rate changes depending on the rat of evaporation in the
evaporator core.

On a 4.0 if you don't have 4.10's switch to them

The guys with 4.0SOHC's that have 4.10's usually complain less
about fuel economy than the guy's with 3.55's or 3.73s

Headers are ALWAYS more effective than most other mods
COMBINED (excepting gears), but few people are willing to
spend the price on headers.

I'm convinced that my 4.10 geared 5sp 4.0OHV with Borla headers would
hand out whoop-ass in large servings to ALL of the 5.0 (Non-HO)
converted Rangers I've driven. (to date I've driven four
different 5.0 conversions and one SBC conversion)

As for cold air intakes? you already have one and the companies that make aftermarket Cold-air intake systems exaggerate the effect they
give (IF claiming a gain when no gain is made can be described as "exaggeration")

Any any idea that there would be a gain from "Greater flow" presumes that the manufacturer would intentionally choke the engine
with the airfilter system (not bloody likely) which would cause emmissions problems.


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[Ranger44]

I agree that 4.10 gearing is a very good choice. That and learning where the best power curve is for your engine and shifting accordingly. Have the gears set up, or even just pull a different axle from a junk yard with 4.10's in it. You'll be happier and be way under budget, save the rest.

[racsan]

what tire size would effectivly turn my 3.73's to 4.10's? seems a set of tires/used rims would be a way to go rather than spend time/money on a gear change, and if it doesnt lead up to expectations its quick and easy (in comparison to a gear change) to change back to stock size tires. or would it just look stupid having tiny tires in wheelwells that had 235-15's stock ?(and 265's were a factory available size). im not sure if 4.10s would be enough and 4.56 is quite a jump. (plus you know id have to put a lock-rite or detroit locker in there while im in there)
________
Ford Ranger EV history (http://www.ford-wiki.com/wiki/Ford_Ranger_EV)

[MAKG]

If you're at stock height, you can put 31 inch tires in there, and 3.73s will turn them just fine. 3.54s are not bad with a 4.0L, but not great either.

I believe the stock 265s are 30 inch tires. Someone with the charts can look it up.

You're underestimating the effect of a gear change. 3.73s to 4.56s is 20%. A comparable tire size is from stock 29 inch to 35 inches.

[motoxchamp]

Man how about you get the dang truck first? This guy changes what he wants on each reply... to the point of being silly...

"I'm looking to do some mods to my 4.0 sohc manual ranger. I don't own one yet but I'm trying to figure out how much I will be spending."

:icon_confused:

I bought a ranger like two days after making that post. I'm still going with the udp system and e fans and a bahma chip. Oh and yes factories do intentionally choke their engines. Perple gain power from headers, exhaust, and intake too (though it may not be much). On my motorcycles and quads an aftermarket K&N intake makes a big difference.

[Bob Ayers]

I bought a ranger like two days after making that post. I'm still going with the udp system and e fans and a bahma chip. Oh and yes factories do intentionally choke their engines. Perple gain power from headers, exhaust, and intake too (though it may not be much). On my motorcycles and quads an aftermarket K&N intake makes a big difference.

Don't forget your Tornado, and Splitfire spark plugs!!:tease:

[gw33gp]

I tow a race car all over the country with my 4.0 SOHC engine. The first thing I did was install a Gibson single swept cat back exhaust. I did it primarily because I could not stand the sound of the stock exhaust but I did get a little more power in the mid-range (2500 to 4000 rpm). I also got a Bama programmer and that gave me a slight improvement in gas mileage and improved performance above 2500 rpm. While I do have programs for 91 octane I usually run with my 87 octane performance program because I don't like to pay the premium price for that premium fuel. I don't need the extra performance of the 91 octane programs but it is fun to use sometimes.

Everything else is pretty much stock. The gears are 4.10 with 31" tires. I have considered electric fans but will not change that until the fan clutch goes out and may not even then. The good fans are very expensive and you need to run the dual fan setup. I think under drive pulleys are a waste of effort and money. I have been tempted to try headers but had a bad experience on another vehicle with headers. They are very difficult to install on the SOHC engine and have not heard much in the way of great things from people that have installed them.

Overall I am very happy with the 4.0 SOHC engine for towing. I have climbed the Rocky Mountains and traveled many roads between California and Ohio with good results. I think the OHV engine should tow as well as the SOHC engine.

BTW, I pull a trailer with a total weight of around 3,500 lbs plus another 800 lbs on the bed.

[Ranger5.0]

man, i juss finished reading all of this stuff and wow, veary interesting stuff. why would a manufacturer, be it dodge chevy ford toyota ANYONE intentionaly restrict air and exaust flow...with gas prices and emissions being what they are these days, everyones trying to SAP OUT EVERY last bit of hp and torque out of any engine they build. 10 years ago, they were more worried about making them quiet and then perform, now they are mastering the art of balancing performince with drivability and pleasability. intake/exaust mods are usualy only needed AFTER some engine work that requiers better air flow. Youwant get up and go, better pulling "power" re gear, thats the bottom line. As for why the genaric motors trucks come with an E fan hook up from factory, most likly a factory option for serious tow vehicles that could use the extra air flow at low speeds towing heavy loads... our 05 1 ton @ work has both a mechanical fan and an E fan. Also, underdrive pullys SLOW everything down, so they slow down the water pump, which is bad, less flow you lose cooling, things get hot, and hot, is bad. as mentioned befor, if your alternator isnt turning at its predicted operating rpms, the regulator will compencate, and eventualy, somthings gona prematurly fail..again, bad....veary bad. not being a dick, but how many ppl understand parasitic drag?

[Bob Ayers]

man, i juss finished reading all of this stuff and wow, veary interesting stuff. why would a manufacturer, be it dodge chevy ford toyota ANYONE intentionaly restrict air and exaust flow...with gas prices and emissions being what they are these days, everyones trying to SAP OUT EVERY last bit of hp and torque out of any engine they build.

You are exactly right!!! With today's CAFE standards, all vehicle manufacturers design and build their vehicles to be as efficient as possible!!

I hate it when these after-market manufacturers (like K&N, etc.) lie about the performance gains of their air filters, intakes, ignition systems, etc. .......Even worse, people throw millions of $$$ away thinking they work!!!

[AllanD]

Automotive magazines are FAMOUS for dreaming up gains for products that are ADVERTISED in their magazines, so I take magazine reviews with a wheelbarrow
full of salt.

Pullies CAN help SLIGHTLY but only at the engine's MAXIMUM operating rpm.


I actually put a SMALLER pulley on my alternator to make it turn FASTER
so it would charge more efficiently at lower engine rpm.

Oh, and BTW since I've never heard of an underdrive crank pulley for a 4.0
I would assume that this means that any underdrive would be accomplished by putting larger pulleys on everthing else which means using a non-standard belt
that you aren't going to be able to get with the sucker fails in the middle
of nowhere...

Gears and Headers, anything else is a pipe dream.

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[Ranger5.0]

hey tee reev: thouse cold air intakes you speak of are a full replacment that puts the filter in the fenderwell right? Ive seen/experienced them, and dont know enough to make a decision. as fas as the intakes on the market for trucks, ive seen veary few that place the air filter in a spot where it gets COLD air

[gw33gp]

Gears and Headers, anything else is a pipe dream.
I pretty much agree with that with the exception of a programmer. I am not saying all programmers work but the one I have made a difference and I am not talking about seat of the pants.

I came up with a way to test performance that eliminates the variables of wheel spin from a stop and shifting. I measured time from 40 to 70 mph and 50 to 80 mph in third gear. I made several runs on each tune including stock. I used a good stop watch that I use at the track and the times agree very close to SCCA's equipment.

The results show a definite improvement in performance with the programmer tunes. The 87 octane performance tune improved 40 to 70 mph times by 0.7 sec and 50 to 80 mph by 0.45 seconds over stock. That is not like adding a super charger but it is an measurable improvement.

[Bob Ayers]

The results show a definite improvement in performance with the programmer tunes. The 87 octane performance tune improved 40 to 70 mph times by 0.7 sec and 50 to 80 mph by 0.45 seconds over stock. That is not like adding a super charger but it is an measurable improvement.

Did you measure your reaction time? What were the actual times?

[85_Ranger4x4]

I pretty much agree with that with the exception of a programmer. I am not saying all programmers work but the one I have made a difference and I am not talking about seat of the pants.

I have heard good things about programmers as well, I don't know who makes them for Rangers but one that can show codes and sensor readings would be nice too. I have toyed with the idea of getting one for my F-150, but they just jacked the price for the one I like up by $100 for no apparent reason.


http://www.edgeproducts.com/product.php?pk=54&pvk=160&pname=Ford+New+Evolution&pvname=1997-2003+F-150+Evolution+Programmer

[metalmacguyver]

heres my .02.

i am a mechanical engineering student. part of being an engineer is remembering that we have to "design a product for the retarded consumer".

it all comes down to balancing things.
Performance vs: longevity vs: reliability vs: economy vs: production cost

taking this into acount they design a product for the average consumer. this meant that the engine will be designed to run most efficiently at a certain speed.

the thing is though, anyone that wants to do aftermarket upgrades, is much more likely to be operating their engine/vehical far out side of the orgional design parameters.

mostly what aftermarket bolt on products do is optimize the engine for a different speed or application that each consumer prefers.

does that make any sense to any one?

[MAKG]

Yup, it absolutely does.

But there is an additional problem. People don't specify what they are actually trying to accomplish, and you get weird comments like "I need more power for towing." We see quite a lot of people making high RPM mods that mess with low RPM, for applications that never redline the engine, and sometimes never use full throttle!

As an engineering student, I'm sure you know what happens when one skips the requirements document and goes straight to fabrication.

[gw33gp]

Did you measure your reaction time? What were the actual times?Sorry to bring this thread back so late but I found this question unanswered. I was out of town for awhile and missed it.

Bob, I took reaction times out of the equation as much as I could. That one of the reasons why I chose the 40 to 70 and 50 to 80 mph tests. I began accelerating below the starting speed and started the stop watch the instant the speedometer hit the starting speed, then stopped it the instant it hit the ending speed.

Actual times were:

40 to 70 mph test.

Stock; 9.7 sec.

87 Octane performance program; 9.0 sec.

50 to 80 mph test.

Stock; 9.9 sec.

87 Octane performance program; 9.45 sec.


All tests were done with my ~350 lb shell on the back. I also tried to have the gas tank near the same level. I also did the tests at the same location to eliminate elevation change effects.

[Kona]

You are exactly right!!! With today's CAFE standards, all vehicle manufacturers design and build their vehicles to be as efficient as possible!!

I hate it when these after-market manufacturers (like K&N, etc.) lie about the performance gains of their air filters, intakes, ignition systems, etc. .......Even worse, people throw millions of $$$ away thinking they work!!!

LOL , funny stuff. The easiest example I have at hand ( easy to look up ) is the last couple of years GM produced the Firebird and Camaro. The 2 cars got the same (exact) engine the base Corvette did but made 15 hp less! The reason was the hood line on the Camaro's required a different routing for the air intake. Anyone that staightened out there airway got 15 dyno prove-able hp back. This was less then 10 years ago.

[Bob Ayers]

LOL , funny stuff. The easiest example I have at hand ( easy to look up ) is the last couple of years GM produced the Firebird and Camaro. The 2 cars got the same (exact) engine the base Corvette did but made 15 hp less! The reason was the hood line on the Camaro's required a different routing for the air intake. Anyone that staightened out there airway got 15 dyno prove-able hp back. This was less then 10 years ago.

Total BS!!!! The cams were different, as well as the heads & valve sizes!!!! The LT-1 Corvette had 2.000" intake valves, the LT-1 used in the
Camaro & Firebird were 1.937"

[Totalled]

Yeah, so, my 4.0 liked a cat back exhaust.