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swtjames23
04-05-2008, 11:06 PM
So i've got a 93 4WD mostly stock with leveling coils and some 31x10.50s you know the basics. I'm gettin sick of blowing thru wheel bearings like nothin all the time but I can't figure out what i wanna do about it. I could put the D44 knuckles on my D35 (convenient because i've got a spare D35 ttb in my back yard), i could swap in a full size D44 TTB or solid axle, or i could go with an EB D44 and keep the truck the same width. Right now the truck is my daily driver so its gotta be somethin i can do in a weekend. I need some advice from ppl that have done these things already. What do these projects cost? what kinda time do they take? I'm leaning towards the D44 knuckle swap just cause i can do it off the truck and swap in the axle later. Please share your opinions! thanks

James

mjonesjr
04-05-2008, 11:07 PM
search is your friend..

bobbywalter
04-05-2008, 11:11 PM
where do you live?



depending on availability of parts, probably less then 200 bux

with the knuckle swap..

swtjames23
04-05-2008, 11:12 PM
trust me jones i've been searching and researching for months about this. I need to here directly from some people that have done it, especially the knuckle swap which seems to be relatively uncommon.

swtjames23
04-05-2008, 11:12 PM
I live in northern california, Eureka. It's hard to find stuff around here, we got one junk yard and not much in it. What years work on the knuckle swap?

mjonesjr
04-05-2008, 11:14 PM
trust me jones i've been searching and researching for months about this. I need to here directly from some people that have done it, especially the knuckle swap which seems to be relatively uncommon.
have you used the search feature on this site? there are tons of axle swap threads floating out there with the exact information you are looking for...

but since you obviously have not searched this site, here is a how-to on swapping the Dana 44 knuckles onto the Dana 35 (from this sites tech library mind you):
http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/winter2007/44knuckleswap.htm

mjonesjr
04-05-2008, 11:15 PM
I live in northern california, Eureka. It's hard to find stuff around here, we got one junk yard and not much in it. What years work on the knuckle swap?
Any Dana 44 knuckles off a '80-'96 F-150 will be for the swap. Read the how-to I posted above and it will tell you all the questions you have, all the way down to the u-joints...

swtjames23
04-05-2008, 11:19 PM
I read that jones. Like 6 times. It doesn't say what the knuckles are from or what ream he used (possibly says 1 1/2"?). Also i've read other buildups that say the 44 alignment cam won't work because its too small...

swtjames23
04-05-2008, 11:20 PM
Ok thanks for the years

bobbywalter
04-05-2008, 11:27 PM
i been doing that since the 90's....there are other potential issues.

a cut off wheel to dress the split on the pinch bolt works out well if/when needed.

when you flip the tre with just the reamer sometimes you will need to straight bore and install an insert later on down the road, cause not all are the same thickness and it depends on the reamer and depth it was done to.


looking at that posted writeup, you should be able to nail this easily.

bobbywalter
04-05-2008, 11:29 PM
oh, i have been using a 7 deg twist to do them lately from a tool place in detroit. acme bolt may have them now too.

swtjames23
04-05-2008, 11:40 PM
How bout axle shafts? Do i need to put the 44 outers on the 35 shafts? The article doesn't mention that. Also, the brakes. The stock ranger brake booster and such will be enough for the larger f150 calipers?

swtjames23
04-05-2008, 11:42 PM
Where can i get a 7* twist? Any big name stores or where should I look? no Acme Bolt around here...

bobbywalter
04-05-2008, 11:47 PM
my brakes are always soft but work waaaaay better with the 150 stuff.

yes you need the 150 outers. you put them on your d30 inners.



if your satisfied with that then you can go to custom shafts and a 30 spline carrier at later dates.

swtjames23
04-05-2008, 11:56 PM
Alright well thanks bobby :icon_thumby: i'm sure i'll come up with more questions later

Hahnsb2
04-06-2008, 12:14 AM
How about properly setting up the wheel bearings?

bobbywalter
04-06-2008, 12:25 AM
How about properly setting up the wheel bearings?

awwwwwwwww cut it out:woot:

4x4junkie
04-06-2008, 01:27 AM
Yeah, there's certainly something seriously wrong here if you're blowing through bearings on dinky little 31s. :huh:

You torquing the inner nut to 15 INCH-lbs (no more)?
Outer locknut (if manual hubs) to 225ft-lbs?
Timken bearings?
Good quality lithium-base wheelbearing grease?

bobbywalter
04-06-2008, 01:40 AM
i was thinking hard city braking, lots of mud and water, and does not know how to properly pack.



i have to say, i am really surprised by the amount of people i run with that do not have a clue on how to pack bearings. dragging laden trailers all over hell too:icon_surprised:



crazy.

metalmacguyver
04-06-2008, 01:42 AM
Bobby, how well do those bearing packers work in your experiance?

bobbywalter
04-06-2008, 01:59 AM
it depends, i have seen units that have good range that actually work if you sit the bearing right. 200 dollars though.


i just use my hands and force it through till theres no air bubbles.


you can fill a sandwich bag with grease and do it that way if your patient enough and dont like getting gooey, i do this in certain situations off road.


generally i like to have two sets pre greased and bagged ready to go.


but situations like running to tennesee/tucky border with the 35's on usually eats a set at speeds above posted by the time i get back. in town (detroit) i have warped the hub part of the rotor from brake heat which loosens the lugs/studs and eats the wheel holes...so you have to snap all the studs off to remove the tire:fie:....and then replace the rotor. damn bearings were cooked but the nuts didnt back off, i had super pads that cost like 90 bux...fawkers destroyed 3 sets of rotors and 6 or so sets of bearings before they wore out...lesson learned:idiot:.


but my bearings are set right and packed right. easy short driving with even 35's dont hurt em too bad, but they are under heavy wear and tear. its the whole total for street use that worries me with most people, cause most just dont know any better.

bobbywalter
04-06-2008, 02:02 AM
but i dont have them problems anymore with the 60's:thefinger:


and brakes.....oh yeah...i gots some brakes...

hitech_hick
04-06-2008, 12:34 PM
You can get a bearing packer at Sears for around $25. They work decent, and in my experience hold up surprisingly well for being plastic. One thing that I would recommend though is to keep the packer/grease at room temperature. I repacked my bearing in sub-zero temps once and needed to stick the packer in a bench vise to make it work.


hick

swtjames23
04-06-2008, 07:34 PM
I know how to pack bearings but I have way offset wheels for one thing. Also, i made a discovery yesterday that i think might have something to do with it. My ebrake has been virtually unusable lately due to it being so loose and I found out yesterday that they drums just needed to be adjusted (the little gear wheel, not sure why i didn't think of that before so go ahead call me an idiot). But I thought about it for a sec and realized that my front brakes have probably been working a lot harder than they should have been (especially since i drive a lil too fast sometimes), which creates heat, which destroys bearings! Makes sense especially since my grease was black (started purple, yes lithium based) and the races were scored last time I replaced the bearings. So my problem might be solved but i'm still gonna throw on the F150 knuckles cause it sounds like fun and eventually I'll be buildin this truck up as soon as its not my DD. Oh and yeah i know how to torque them down too i read around here a lot.

Todd
04-07-2008, 04:35 PM
Additional info of the swap I failed to mention. Asked Jim to put this in so its covered.

The Knuckles I used where 84-86 I believe. Just about any TTB 44 knuckles should work. The only special tool need is the ream. The ream used is 1 ½” taper per foot. The Dana 44 stub shafts use the same u joint as Dana 35 so shaft assembly is just like a 35 shaft but with the 44 stub in place of the 35 stub. The stock brake master cylinder works fine with the 44 calipers. So it does not need to be replaced but could be if you see fit.

CopyKat
04-07-2008, 05:09 PM
:cool:

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/front%20susp/SuperD35/SuperD35028.jpg

swtjames23
04-08-2008, 12:03 AM
Thanks Todd, now if i could just find some 44 knuckles i could bust this out in no time

86ford
04-08-2008, 01:51 AM
i have an odd feeling your spindles look like they lost a battle with a grinder or a set of torches.....

86

rickcdewitt
04-08-2008, 06:37 AM
:cool:

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/front%20susp/SuperD35/SuperD35028.jpg
did you use todds procedure? what year knuckles and style ball joints?

CopyKat
04-08-2008, 07:42 AM
did you use todds procedure? what year knuckles and style ball joints?

Ya I followed it. there were a few details that were left out but I managed to figure it out. Year of knuckles.....no clue. The TTB was already out of the truck when the PO bought it. I know it's not an 87. Same joints Todd specs in his article.

Todd
04-08-2008, 02:14 PM
Copykate I like the way you ran your brake lines. Might have to do that some day:icon_thumby:

CopyKat
04-08-2008, 02:58 PM
:dunno:

What's your contribution other than posting pics of "hardcore" mods done to your rig that you drive 99% on the street, and have took on a legit trail, twice? Since you post them on at least 5 RBV specific forums, it looks to me like you are an attention whore, or need your ego stroked.

If I post shit about my rig, it's not to show off the latest change to my :rainbow: wannabe early bronco grill, or some stupid ass push to crank button.. I mod my shit to perform better on the trail.


How about you go back to the tech plagiarist's web site you like so much and stay there.


****it I ain't posting anything on the open forums, to help anyone. I guess posting pictures of Mods is considered being a Poser. I guess I'll just go back to my plagiarist's web site!;missingteeth;:stirthepot:

Todd you got a PM for brake line info. Should you choose to do that. I stole the idea from Totalled years ago and I'm claiming it as mine since he doesn't whore enough pictures of his hardcore rig. :stirthepot:

metalmacguyver
04-08-2008, 04:30 PM
Where the hell did this Bullshit come from? Lets just help people with their RBVs and stop bickering like children.:annoyed:


Originally Posted by Totalled
What's your contribution other than posting pics of "hardcore" mods done to your rig that you drive 99% on the street, and have took on a legit trail, twice? Since you post them on at least 5 RBV specific forums, it looks to me like you are an attention whore, or need your ego stroked.

If I post shit about my rig, it's not to show off the latest change to my :rainbow: wannabe early bronco grill, or some stupid ass push to crank button.. I mod my shit to perform better on the trail.


How about you go back to the tech plagiarist's web site you like so much and stay there.


:dunno:



****it I ain't posting anything on the open forums, to help anyone. I guess posting pictures of Mods is considered being a Poser. I guess I'll just go back to my plagiarist's web site!;missingteeth;:stirthepot:

Todd you got a PM for brake line info. Should you choose to do that. I stole the idea from Totalled years ago and I'm claiming it as mine since he doesn't whore enough pictures of his hardcore rig. :stirthepot:

mhughes165
04-08-2008, 04:35 PM
idk.....but ive never seen anyone blasted on this site for doing anything at all to there trucks....

aside from the guy that wants to run 44"s with 1/2 ton running gear....

95XL
04-08-2008, 06:30 PM
While this topic is up, someone suggested that I do the Dana 44 spindle swap to my Ranger. (I'm the guy doing the dually conversion, see my avatar? lol.) Only I need the 8 on 6.5" bolt pattern for my rims, he said something about putting 3/4 ton hubs on the 44 spindle, is that possible?

Sorry, but I figured I'd ask since everybody seems to be chiming in on this subject.

swtjames23
04-08-2008, 08:03 PM
Thanks for the pic Copykat, it helps. If i can make it to the junk yard this week, i'll whip this up on saturday and post some pics myself. Did you truss your axle yourself? Powdercoat or rattle can? I figure i should make them look good and make them stout while i have them off the truck.

swtjames23
04-08-2008, 08:06 PM
Hey 95XL i saw in your signature that you did that chevy leaf spring swap. How does it ride? Is it real stiff? I was thinkin about doin it but my truck already rides like a tank for some reson. I was hoping for an improvement if anything. Also, is it about 3" over stock like the tech library says?

bobbywalter
04-08-2008, 08:24 PM
dualies with a 2.3?:fie:



i was thinking dually too....but that was in combination with the diesel


i guess theres more to that animal...need to find that thread.


if you can find a ld 44 ttb 8 lug it may be possible to use its hubs, but iirc the beam knuckles are still the big unit so you will need to use chevy brake plates and brakes with that arrempt. you would for sure have to cut the oem caliper slides off at a minimum.


i dont have a setup here to work with, but i was going to attempts it on a bronco some years ago because the guy swapped a rear 8 lug 456 locked 14 bolt in and wanted to match the front for one set of wheels. i ended up putting an 8 lug 44 sas in it before the ttb thing got too far.


do you have a link to your build?

95XL
04-09-2008, 05:20 AM
SWTJames - The spring swap doesn't ride bad at all IMO. I left the overload spring in the packs, because I tend to haul a lot of weight sometimes. Yes, if you use the belltech shackles it is about 3-4" over stock. I actually used some 2" lowering shackles from summit racing, they were the same thing as the belltechs, just cheaper. Also, I didn't have to cut my cab mounts like the writeup said, there was plenty of room to move the front hanger forward.

Bobby Walter - Thanks for the info.
http://http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7374

CopyKat
04-09-2008, 10:19 AM
Thanks for the pic Copykat, it helps. If i can make it to the junk yard this week, i'll whip this up on saturday and post some pics myself. Did you truss your axle yourself? Powdercoat or rattle can? I figure i should make them look good and make them stout while i have them off the truck.

Here is another that will likely "not" help.

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/front%20susp/SuperD35/SuperD35037.jpg

I did all the plate work design and had a buddy weld it, since I don't have a strong enough welder. Rattle can paint. I don't expect anything to stay pretty for very long around here.

bobbywalter
04-09-2008, 08:22 PM
quit painting over the snow and it will last longer:woot:



so how ya like the ride? flip the tre's yet?

swtjames23
04-09-2008, 10:00 PM
It might not help Copykat but it still looks good :icon_thumby:. Still haven't made it to the junkyard yet, maybe tomorrow. Guy quoted me $100 bucks for everything from the knuckles out if I pull them myself. Any suggestions as to what i should bring when i go to pull them? It's too bad i don't have an on-board air compressor...i'm thinkin hand tools, WD40 and a bfh will do.

swtjames23
04-09-2008, 10:03 PM
95XL, thanks for the info. Thats next on my list of things to do on the ranger after the knuckle swap. How's the wheel travel? Noticeably better or...? Anyway yeah thats good to know i won't have to cut the cab mount, i was kinda leary about that.

95XL
04-10-2008, 05:18 AM
How's the wheel travel? Noticeably better or...?

I've never actually flexed mine enough to see, I'd imagine though, everyone around here claims it does improve flex, and if it didn't they wouldn't do it right? If your looking for travel, then I'd take out the overload leaf.