Project Fordzuki [Archive] - The Ranger Station Forums

Loanranger

08-30-2007, 11:44 PM

Well, here's my frankenstein. It started out as a '72 Suzuki LJ20. I picked up an '83 Ford Ranger 2wd longbed regular cab, which was a good running little truck till I got to it. Muahaha. So basically I started with a bone stock Suzuki, and stripped everything down. The only things left from the original rig are basically the body and frame. The first things I picked up were a Samurai transfercase and axles. Now, I know what you're thinking. Where does the Ranger come in? Well, I needed a good running motor and decent tranny to put in front of the samurai transfercase. A buddy of mine was at the time trying to sell his '83 Ranger, and I knew it ran and drove good, so I payed a whopping $200 for it. Well, actually $100, because my dad needed some body parts for his ranger, and so we split the cost. I got the little ranger home and immediately went to work yanking the running gear and was soon on my way to fitting it into the LJ.
So for about the last 4 months, I've been cutting and welding, making a crazy little rockcrawler. The ford parts in it include the 2.3 liter 4 banger with a Weber on it, the stock 4 speed, all the wiring and the steering column, the brake and clutch pedals with aluminum bracket, the master cylinders for the brakes and clutch, the rear springs (which were cut in half and used just the main leafs for 1/4 eliptical rear) and the slipyoke into the tranny and the rearmost flange of the driveline. The non ford parts include samurai axles, transfercase, and modified drivelines (the rear is shortened and the front is lengthened due to the length of the drivetrain), Datsun 620 rear leafs up front, outboarded on the frame, toyota IFS steering box with modified pitman arm to accept a custom samurai z-link, john deere tractor toplinks for the rear triangulated 4-link (the bottoms were cut and welded around D44 axleshafts to strengthen), and a whole bunch of 3/16ths steel plate.
As of right now, I need to get some calipers for the front axle, run my brakelines, run the wiring, install a fuel tank and fuel lines, and either find a small enough radiator to fit in the front and still keep it cool, or run some tube to the back and run the ranger radiator with electric fans.
Here's some pics of the build.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/qtrlipdun.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/newshackles.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/215.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/fronttsl.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/seton.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/shockflex.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/tripivot.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/reardrive.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/adapted.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/sideview.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/frntflex.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/masters.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/pedals.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/frontdrive.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/nufflex.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/225.jpg

Seabiscuit

08-30-2007, 11:51 PM

Fordzuki = awesome

Maverick

08-31-2007, 01:51 AM

I've always like the look of those LJ20's. Looks like a fun project, keep up the good work.

Stumpy

08-31-2007, 02:06 AM

nice flex!:icon_thumby:

stegomon

08-31-2007, 11:45 AM

:icon_surprised::drool::pray:

BDAB

08-31-2007, 02:26 PM

Look at that...............

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/frntflex.jpg

He is saying Hello. I am Ford Zuki....... mess with me and I'll kick your ass.

DK27

08-31-2007, 02:51 PM

Badass

Loanranger

08-31-2007, 10:38 PM

Thanks guys, tonight I got home and UPS finally brought my ream, so I reamed out the pitman arm and assembled the steering. This was the last thing needed for the steering. I also finished up my drivers side shock tower, so both shocks are in. This wraps up the suspension, so now all I need is brakes, fuel, wiring and the radiator. I'll probably start disassembling everything soon, back down to a bare frame, so I can finish some of the welding that is inaccessable with the components bolted in. Then the frame can get a nice coat of primer and paint, and I can put it all back together.

Not All There

09-03-2007, 08:21 PM

freaking love it!

hairyboxnoogle

09-06-2007, 06:47 PM

Man that thing looks AWESOME!!! Probably the coolest conversion ive seen.

danger88ranger

09-08-2007, 02:41 PM

thats going to be one sweet rig, cant wait to see it finished

Loanranger

09-08-2007, 06:08 PM

Well, thanks again everyone, just an update, I ended up using a Datsun radiator and got that installed today, I removed the stock clutch fan, and will be running an electric. I got the battery tray/ passenger side apron built also, this will hold the battery and starter relay. Pictures to follow.

Loanranger

09-10-2007, 10:11 PM

Well, I got a little antsy with the radiator in, I filled it up, plugged all my wiring harnesses in and decided to take it for a spin. I still have no brakes or fuel system, so I took an empty oil jug, popped a hole in the cap and used a brass fitting stuffed through it. I hooked this up to the fuel line, which is currently running no fuel pump. The mechanical one got in the way of the steering shaft, so I had to cut out a blockoff plate with the plasma cutter and I'll have to get an electric one. For now I ziptied the oil jug to the master cylinder, which is higher than the carb, and surprisingly it ran quite well on just gravity. I was able to run around in the field for a couple minutes, and play in the ditch a little too. Here's a pic and a short video. I realized when I got back in the garage that I had the hubs unlocked the whole time.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1189399186.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/th_09-09-07_1920.jpg (http://s157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/?action=view&current=09-09-07_1920.flv)

Loanranger

09-30-2007, 06:49 PM

Well, it's getting close, I got a fuel cell and electric fuel pump and so the fuel system is complete, buttoned up some of the loose ends like wiring, guages, extended diff breathers, electric fan, and of course the pintle hitch. =)

The fuel cell and pump
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/fuelcell.jpg

Underhood
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1191100670.jpg

The pintle hitch
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1191100669.jpg

First test on the ramp
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1191100275.jpg

Rear shot on the ramp
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1191100274.jpg

danger88ranger

09-30-2007, 08:29 PM

freaking sweet

dangerranger0690

09-30-2007, 09:23 PM

that thing is pretty cool, makes me wanna go build somthin...

Loanranger

10-10-2007, 10:53 PM

The last week or so I have been rounding up parts for the brakes, which got interesting when I went to get hard lines. I ended up using stock sidekick right side front brake hoses, as this was a cheap 10" longer than stock samurai alternative to extended brake hoses in the $100 range. The rear I used a stock ranger rear. So basically from the master cylinder, it was all ranger stuff, untill I got to the sidekick hoses in the front and the wheel cylinders in the rear. I came up with a cool little adapter fitting that goes from standard 3/16ths to metric 10mm. These are made by three companies that I found, which are Edellman part# 270300, Everco part# 3025B, or Weatherhead part# 1443. So now the brakes are done, stops very well considering the mixture of parts. I also got the fan and relay wired up, and the drivers seat mounted. Just need to finish a couple of transmission tunnel panels and mount the passenger seat and it will be ready just in time for mud season.

THE WHITE RHINO

10-10-2007, 11:33 PM

those leafs are going to break for sure

Loanranger

10-12-2007, 12:04 AM

those leafs are going to break for sure

I sure hope so

89REDRANGER

10-17-2007, 12:16 PM

Loanranger

10-17-2007, 08:26 PM

Hey, this is turning out to be a bad-ass build. It's nice to see something going into a 'Zuk other than a 22R or a 4.3 V6. After owning an '88 T-Bird TurboCoupe, I am a real big fan of the ford 2.3. Damn good motors. Just out of curiosity, what are the specs on that black Ex-Cab Ranger you have? And, is there way I can get a Pic of it sitting unloaded on level ground? Thanks lots!

Well, thank you, it was just by luck that I found the ranger with the 2.3 in it, otherwise the powertrain probably would have been Datsun.
The ex cab is my DD, so it's pretty mild, I just threw some SJ132x coils, 3.25 degree bushings and belltech shackles on it, SJ nitro shocks up front, still running the stocks in the back, though I'm thinking I might spring for the SJs when I get the LJ done. The tire/rims are 31x10.50x15 TSL bias ply on 15x8 AWC rims with 3.75" BS. To stop rubbing, I stretched the bedsides about an inch per side, and the front I just moved the wheel liner back about an inch in the back. Aside from this, I extended my front diff breather into the upper back corner of the fender, and ditched the swaybar. Everything else is stock, 2.9/mitsu 5 speed/D28f,7.5r/3.73.

89REDRANGER

10-24-2007, 02:22 AM

That's about where my truck is minus any lift. First thing I did was ditch the sway-bar. Little scary in traffic, but well worth it for the extra flex and better ride on the pavement and off. I was just getting some ideas on how to lift the truck cheaply without screwing up the front-end to where it won't go straight. Right now money is a little tight being unemployed and all, but I just got my old job back at the Ford dealership so I should be able to play soon.

As far as the Suzuki, that thing is sweet. I always wanted to do a super light tube frame buggy with a mild 2.3/auto, Dana 30/Dana 35 Jeep XJ running gear and 33's. You don't need big tires around here. Not unless you go out to the rock-crawl parks. I just like to play around. Not climb rocks for days. More trail cruising than anything.

Anywho, I'll stop cluttering up your thread now. Nice build.

Loanranger

10-24-2007, 08:13 PM

89REDRANGER

10-25-2007, 12:13 PM

Well, lets see some wheeling pics. BTW, I have a thread going in the show off you truck section. Check it out. Let me know what you think. 31's fit now, but I don't know what I want to do with it yet. I think I may just buy a B2 to build as a trail truck. Better than thrashing my DD. It's survived two months of wheeling so far with no dents or broken parts yet. I take that back. I broke a hub climbing the concrete pad in my backyard you can see in my thread. It was ready to go anyway (always did make funny noises).

Lets see them wheelin' pics. I love oddball, low-buck wheelers.

http://therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?goto=newpost&t=4422 Here's the link to mine!

Loanranger

10-25-2007, 07:50 PM

hey, checked out your truck, nice score. Looks like the body's in pretty good shape.

Here's some wheeling pics from last saturday, plus a couple short vids.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1192944825-2.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1192944826.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1192944825-1.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1192944825.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/th_10-20-07_1815.jpg (http://s157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/?action=view&current=10-20-07_1815.flv)

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/th_10-20-07_1813.jpg (http://s157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/?action=view&current=10-20-07_1813.flv)

89REDRANGER

10-25-2007, 09:12 PM

Thanks man! Your ride is looking good. Where you located? That area looks familiar. If you're in Central Oregon, wanna do some wheeling sometime?

Loanranger

10-26-2007, 08:14 PM

I'm up in washington, near Tacoma. The wheeling pics are from a buddies back woods, we dug out a couple trails and mudholes back there, and use it for sort of a test area.

89REDRANGER

10-26-2007, 10:05 PM

That's awesome. All I have in my back yard is a concrete slab that is about two feet tall. All it seems to be good for is blowing up factory D28 hubs. It's still fun to play around on though. You ever make it down to Oregon?

Loanranger

10-27-2007, 12:37 AM

Not very often, I've been to Sandlake a couple times, but thats about it.

89REDRANGER

10-27-2007, 11:58 AM

That sucks. I'll have to head up Washington one of these days. I hear that's where all the "good" wheeling is. I hate it here, you can't fart without the forest service wanting to know what you had for dinner last night. :nono: I have a little bit of a group here that drives RBVs. My buddy Matt has an '88 Super Cab 4X4, and my buddy Mike has a 1993 'Sploder with M/T 31/10.50s. We have fun for now. Till the snow falls and they close it all down because they're afraid we will erode the trails. Just out of curiosity, how the hell do you erode the trail when there is three feet of snow, and a foot of ice under that.

Sorry, plugging up your thread with my rants.

Loanranger

11-16-2007, 12:15 AM

Well, it's finally "done". Done enough to wheel anyways. I took it up to Evans Creek last sunday and had no problems. Even got to pull a Jeep TJ up a hill he couldn't make it up.(Still had his sway bar hooked up) Had a great time, and everything worked out great.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1194810418.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1194810417.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1194810501.jpg

cargs

11-16-2007, 09:24 AM

are you using top links from a tractors 3 point hitch for upper links?

zainyD]

11-16-2007, 12:15 PM

What lockers are you using if any or are your diffs welded?

Loanranger

11-16-2007, 10:41 PM

are you using top links from a tractors 3 point hitch for upper links?

Uppers are unmodified John Deere uppers. Lowers are cut and stuffed with a Dana 44 front axle shaft. (hey, it was the right diameter!)

Loanranger

11-16-2007, 10:42 PM

;41898']What lockers are you using if any or are your diffs welded?

Open at both ends for now. I am considering welding the rear, and have been eyeballing a front third with locker for $175.

Loanranger

11-18-2007, 10:29 PM

Made it out again today. I just went up to a buddies place with some property. Got one of my old conversions going again too that I sold him. It's a 76 Ramcharger with D44frnt,D60 rear, with a 79 Datsun cab on it.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/tt5.jpg
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/tt4.jpg
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/eviltwins1.jpg
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/tt6.jpg
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/ttwins.jpg
Had a great day, and didn't break anything.

Sunk

11-18-2007, 10:50 PM

Man, that thing is FLEXY. Looks cool.

organic

11-18-2007, 11:45 PM

86ford

11-19-2007, 12:17 AM

Loanranger

11-19-2007, 09:19 PM

[QUOTE=Loanranger;42953]Made it out again today. I just went up to a buddies place with some property. Got one of my old conversions going again too that I sold him. It's a 76 Ramcharger with D44frnt,D60 rear, with a 79 Datsun cab on it.

Loanranger, I love this build!! Very inspiring. Ramcharger with a Datsun cab, I would love to see pics.

The black truck in the pics is the Ramdatsun. And I have to say, alot of rigs on the internet, including TRS inspired me to build both rigs, so I'm just glad I can pass on the inspiration.

Loanranger

11-27-2007, 10:05 PM

Got a grill in it finally. Took some horse trading with a guy from New Mexico to find one, but I finally got it.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1196222242.jpg

Sunk

11-27-2007, 11:49 PM

Sweet, I like the look.

Hahnsb2

12-01-2007, 01:56 PM

Made it out again today. I just went up to a buddies place with some property. Got one of my old conversions going again too that I sold him. It's a 76 Ramcharger with D44frnt,D60 rear, with a 79 Datsun cab on it.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/tt6.jpg

Had a great day, and didn't break anything.
I spy a fart can :taunt: Just messin with ya. Rigs looking awesome, if you think it's great now, wait untill you get some lockage going on :icon_thumby:

Loanranger

12-01-2007, 02:11 PM

Yep, had to add a little "rice" to it for laughs. And a few days after this pic, I pulled the rear pig and welded the gears. Took it back up to Evans the weekend after and had a great time, crawled right through everything.

rickcdewitt

12-01-2007, 02:17 PM

sweet,once you get everything settled in you can start hunting for that turbo coupe motor!

northerncountry

12-04-2007, 09:52 PM

Loanranger

12-05-2007, 01:02 AM

what size shocks are you using on that thing? obviously it doesn't weigh enough to bottem them out if it did would you have to use coilovers to get the same effect? not to familier with 4 link suspension.?

The shocks are for a 3" lifted F250 Superduty, the measurements I forget. The front ones bottom out when severely flexed, or running fast through potholes, I'm gonna swap them out to the stock length F250 shocks and that will end that. Coilovers would replace both the shocks and springs, and I'm happy with both the ride and travel of the Datsun leafs up front, and the Ranger half leafs in the back. There's alot on this site and others that will give you a clue about 4 link.

Dishtowel

12-06-2007, 08:57 PM

Loanranger

12-06-2007, 09:08 PM

Dude you have a wicked rig. That thing looks like it flex's more than a double jointed snake. good work! I am assuming it scores over 1000 RTI? This is the first time I have ever seen 4 link sprung the way you did it!! That is very interesting!! Very nice home-made revolver shackles BTW. Have you scaled it? I'm curious what it weights.

Well, first of all thank you. I don't know what it RTI's at, my homebuilt ramp isn't tall enough. I've had it flexed way more on the trail than I can get it at the top of my ramp. I am also curious to throw it on a scale too, but haven't yet, the base rig weighs in at around 1300 lbs, so I'm assuming with the bigger engine and tranny and all the other goodies, it's probably between 1700-1800 lbs.

Dishtowel

12-06-2007, 11:27 PM

rickcdewitt

12-07-2007, 06:39 AM

putting the shackle at the rear of a front spring allows the tire to travel up and away from bumps making for a softer ride.its a common swap with the later model solid axle leaf spring ford trucks(it gets you lift also).

Hahnsb2

12-07-2007, 03:09 PM

Wow, that is way lighter than my rig!! I scale at 3620 lbs (1640 KG) empty! And 4340 lbs (1970 KG) when I have my winch on and all my gear loaded up!! That is alot more than you!! lol, But I have discovered that weight helps with my flex, so thats is fine.
I will be scaling it again once I have the V8 and D35 in/on. Probably 200-240 lbs heavier I'm guessing.

Random question that I have been wondering on for a little while, you might know the answer.
In regards to a LEAF sprung FRONT axle, Is there any benefit to having the shackles on the front of the spring? or the back? I notice alot of jeeps have them on the front and my pal's Toyota has them on the rear. The only thing I can think of is that if they were on the back eye of the spring you lose abit of ground clearance there. Why did you put yours on the front?
Shackles in front can be worse for handling because they can wobble a little bit and it it better to have the wobble behind the axle so it "trails". Think of trying to make a shopping cart caster move backwards while you hold the wheel pointing forward, it is going to try and whip it self around. If that makes any sense. Shackles up front aren't really a bad thing, just don't use super long ones.

Loanranger

12-07-2007, 08:01 PM

Well, there have been plenty of discussions just about everywhere about standard or reverse shackles, and there are positives and negatives to both.
In a reverse shackle setup, with the shackle in the rear, it will give a better ride, as the axle will be able to move with the bumps, if you hit a bump or are traveling on washboard roads, it will be allowed to move rewards, away from the impact. The negatives to running them in the rear would be nose diving when you hit the brakes, possible damage resulting from hitting a large bump and having the tire move back into the wheelwell, or even driveline or transfercase damage if you do not pay close attention to driveline length. On steep hill climbs, if you lose traction with the rear axle, the front will try to "walk" out from under the vehicle, resulting in driveline seperation or even bent springs. On steep downhills, the shackles could unload and allow the vehicle to tip forwards.
With the shackle in the front, you don't have any of the previous mentioned dangers, as everything is pivoting from the same end. This means you won't have the danger of driveline seperation, tire and fender damage, nose diving, and some say it gives you a little better traction, as the tire rotation is pushing down and loading the shackle, rather than up and loading the shackle. SO basically, the trade off is either good ride, or damaged components, from my point of view anyways.
Long story short, I chose to run the shackles in the front, for all the above reasons, beings this is a trail rig, not a Cadilac.

Big Red Ranger

12-12-2007, 09:36 PM

Got a grill in it finally. Took some horse trading with a guy from New Mexico to find one, but I finally got it.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1196222242.jpg

That is sweet

Loanranger

12-24-2007, 07:16 PM

Took it up to my buddies house today, got some new vids.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/th_12-24-07_1316.jpg (http://s157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/?action=view&current=12-24-07_1316.flv)

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/th_12-24-07_1319.jpg (http://s157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/?action=view&current=12-24-07_1319.flv)

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/th_12-24-07_1247.jpg (http://s157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/?action=view&current=12-24-07_1247.flv)

Hope you all have happy holidays!

Carlos Murphy

12-27-2007, 10:06 PM

Outstanding, love it, now ya got ta rig it fer the trails.

Loanranger

12-27-2007, 11:43 PM

Outstanding, love it, now ya got ta rig it fer the trails.

??? Rig it fer the trails? Not sure what you mean. I built this thing specifically for trails. I've taken it up to Evans creek a few times now and it did extremely well. Snow's fallin at most of the parks around here, and it's getting pretty deep (30" at Evans) so I decided to take it up to my buddies place and play around a little.

Carlos Murphy

12-28-2007, 04:23 AM

I just ment things like winch, jack, extinguisher, CB, tools, cup holder, Winchester and so on ... :icon_thumby:
Great looking truck, nice work.

89REDRANGER

12-29-2007, 03:53 PM

Loanranger

12-29-2007, 07:09 PM

This thing has turned out to be a BEAST! Nice work, and awesome job keeping it looking somewhat stock on the outside. I like the fart-cannon idea. They don't take up much for space, even though they are kinda irritating on a little ricer car.

Thanks, I'm thinking about cutting the coffee can off, for one it's helaciously loud, but doesn't sound anything like a honda, and two, it's not FS aproved, as it's a straight through design. For the winter months it's not bad, but when it starts getting dryer out, I'm sure I'd have the FS on my arse about it.

predator

12-31-2007, 03:20 AM

hey loanranger what does FS stand for??

Carlos Murphy

12-31-2007, 06:12 AM

hey loanranger what does FS stand for??

Oh,Oh, me, me, I know, I know....:yahoo:...

FORESTRY SERVICE :icon_thumby:

predator

12-31-2007, 08:46 AM

oh...thanks carlos!!

never would have thought of that...gave me something to think about at work though!!!

Loanranger

12-31-2007, 07:34 PM

Oh,Oh, me, me, I know, I know....:yahoo:...

FORESTRY SERVICE :icon_thumby:

Exactly..

Tweeder

02-27-2008, 09:51 PM

gee......i think i've seen this thread somewhere before... :thefinger:

you GOTTA post pix with the new meats on.....stat!

Loanranger

02-27-2008, 10:05 PM

gee......i think i've seen this thread somewhere before... :thefinger:

you GOTTA post pix with the new meats on.....stat!

hey, you decided to poke your head in over here huh? Well, here's some pics of the new shoes.

The first night I mounted them up, 34x10.50x15 LTBs on 15x8 black rockcrawlers with 2.5 BS
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1203572887-1.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1203572889.jpg

And trying them out down at Tahuya last sunday.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1203911767.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1203911443.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1203911912.jpg

And the old 33x12.50x15 tsls got a new home on my dads ranger, still have to do some "minor fender trimming" to the bedsides.
Stock height, no lift
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1203654508-1.jpg
"Minor fender trimming"
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1203654505.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1203654508.jpg

Tweeder

02-27-2008, 10:20 PM

hell yeah, thats what i'm talkin 'bout! :icon_thumby:

think i got dad talked into a build very similar to yours except with another 10 or so inches of stretch in the body. since most of our wheelin' is hillclimbs, he'll need the wheelbase.....not to mention, i wanna kick Mouser's ass :thefinger:

i got some plans for a Ranger, myself.....

Loanranger

02-28-2008, 12:10 AM

Yeah, if I was to do it again (which I probably will) I would stretch both the tub and frame, mostly to get a little more leg room.

Loanranger

03-15-2008, 10:58 PM

Well, the latest project on Fordzuki was to address the cooling system. It did fine most of the time, running around on the trails up at Evans Creek, but out on the logging roads and at Tahuya, it would get a little warm from time to time. My guess was the Datsun radiator I had in it had a few clogged tubes, so I started looking around for something aluminum, and came up with a good one at the 4x4 swapmeet, a 19x22" Northern aluminum racing radiator for a little less than half price, and still in new condition. When I picked it up, I thought I could do a little more plasma massaging to the front sheetmetal and fit it in there, but to no avail. It was too wide to fit between the framerails, and because of this, stood about 3 inches too tall to get the hood shut. So this made the decision I had been thinking about for awhile now, and that was remote mounting the radiator in the back. This solved two problems, one being keeping the motor cool, and the second being not having a heater. So I basically started by welding in a crossbar between the rollbar for the top mount, and bolting in a crossbar between the rear wheeltubs for the bottom mount. I got the radiator mounted up, and started dreaming up the plumbing for it.
For plumbing, I went down to the parts store, and got 2 ten foot sticks of 1.5" exhaust tubing, 4 random radiator hoses with a bunch of bends in them, 24 hose clamps, and an adapter from 1.5" to 1.25" for the upper hose on the motor. For the smaller degree bends, I used the pipe bender, and for anything over a 15 degree bend, I cut bends out of the radiator hoses, and clamped the pieces together. When all was routed and clamped, I took some 3/16" by 1" steel strap, and cut pieces to both attach the 2 tubes together, and to attach the both tubes to the frame. After double checking all the clamps, I vaccumed the system with my air evacuator, and checked that it held vaccum. It held 25 psi, so I then filled the system, and it took almost 5 gallons of 50/50 mix to fill it up. I mounted my 16" e-fan up as a puller, and wired it back to the original relay I had for the front fan. With the fan not running, the temp gets up to about 165 degrees after running at 2500 rpm for about 15-20 minutes. With the fan running at all times, I can't get the temp guage to register, which it starts out at 100 degrees. So this definately will keep the thing cool during even the hottest summer months, and when I get a little more time, I'm going to wire up a thermostatic switch to control the fan.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1205119593.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1205472653.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1205472653-1.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1205472650.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1205118633.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1205118632.jpg

mkyhmltn

03-15-2008, 11:35 PM

[QUOTE=Tweeder;90550]gee......i think i've seen this thread somewhere before... :thefinger:

Yeah, me too.
Looking great there loanranger.

mkpecor

03-15-2008, 11:59 PM

that thing is bad ass, i wish i would have went with you and tottled up to evans, looked like fun, are you going to be up a nachees mamoreal day weekend, i would love to see you play on funny rocks with it.

Loanranger

03-16-2008, 10:03 PM

[QUOTE=Tweeder;90550]gee......i think i've seen this thread somewhere before... :thefinger:

Yeah, me too.
Looking great there loanranger.

Thanks, you must be on the LJ10 board too huh? Whats your screenname there?

that thing is bad ass, i wish i would have went with you and tottled up to evans, looked like fun, are you going to be up a nachees mamoreal day weekend, i would love to see you play on funny rocks with it.

It was me and Rolledranger, I haven't been wheeling with totalled yet. It was alot of fun, despite all the digging. :rolleyes: I might have to go to Naches on memorial day weekend, if I can figure out when it is, can't find my calendar at the moment. I've only been up there once, and I was riding along with a buddy. I'd like to get my cage built here soon, as I only have a single bar behind the head right now, then I won't worry so much on the rocks about flopping.

I got my thermostat switch for the fan wired in today, and it seems to work pretty well, though the band seems to be a little wide on it, turning on at 170 and turning off at 130. I might have to play around with it a little more on the first trail test, which should be next weekend, more than likely up at Elbe hills.

dogboy

03-16-2008, 10:33 PM

That thing is looking awsome!!

I would say we should go wheelin someday, but I think that LJ would kick my Ranger's ass, :black_eye: haha.

viperfangs2

03-16-2008, 10:55 PM

All I can say is WOW You built that from scratch with your blood, sweat and hard earned money I'm sure. I hope I can build something like that one day.

FordZuki is the SHIT!!!:icon_surprised::shok::drool:

Loanranger

03-16-2008, 11:44 PM

That thing is looking awsome!!

I would say we should go wheelin someday, but I think that LJ would kick my Ranger's ass, :black_eye: haha.

Haha, thanks man, we should go wheeling someday though, maybe tahuya or something, there's still plenty I can have fun on out there.

All I can say is WOW You built that from scratch with your blood, sweat and hard earned money I'm sure. I hope I can build something like that one day.

FordZuki is the SHIT!!!:icon_surprised::shok::drool:

Again, thanks, all I can say is it's been alot of fun and learning, building this thing, and it has been very rewarding so far. The funny thing about it is I've got less into this overall than I do in my Ranger, even by the time I get a winch and full cage. I built it on a budget, and always took the time to find the sweet deals, and make sure it was going to do what I wanted it to.

dogboy

03-16-2008, 11:59 PM

I'll let ya know when I get my body lift and get it on and maybe we can hit up Evans or Tahuya! I got a set of 33" Pro Comp Mud Terrians at the swap meet last weekend and just need the lift to slap'em on there!

Loanranger

03-17-2008, 12:05 AM

dogboy

03-17-2008, 12:21 AM

Cool man, I'm definately going to be up at evans alot this summer, and your ranger should do pretty decent up there with 33s, my ranger got around pretty good on 31s, so you shouldn't have a problem.
Let me know when you get the body lift, if you need a hand installing it.

Thanks, for the offer, but I think I can get it. If for some reason I can't do it once I get the lift, I might ask you for some info and or help though. Have you done a body lift on a ranger before?

Loanranger

03-17-2008, 12:56 AM

compleckz

03-17-2008, 01:28 AM

i love this rig!

dogboy

03-17-2008, 09:29 AM

Nope, never done a body lift on a ranger, but I'm sure it can't be too hard, i was more talking labor help, and if you don't get one with bumper brackets, I got all the tools to fab some up :icon_welder:

Ok, cool. I might hit ya up on that, but I'm not sure. My dad will probably be able to help me do that.

Loanranger

03-31-2008, 12:20 AM

Well, first test with the new radiator setup went awesome, it stayed cool the whole time I was wheeling today, got in 3+ hours of continuous wheeling, and never once got above 180 degrees.

Had a pretty good day too, didn't break anything, and didn't flop it, but I did manage to put a dent in the front housing, about an inch away from the ring gear, so when I got it home, I decided to pull the thirdmember to check everything out, pound the dent out, and while I had it out, I took it apart and welded up the sidegears like I had already done on the rear diff. I got it all back together tonight, and have to pick up some rvt so I can stuff the third back in. I've also decided to make some armor for the housing, but haven't decided whether to use a pipe cap, or make something up out of flat stock. Anyways, here's a picture of the dent, and some pics of the process of welding up the side gears.
The dent
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1206935581.jpg
Side gears pulled out
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1206935277.jpg
welded up
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1206935276.jpg
Wrapping in welding blanket to slow cooling
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1206935145.jpg
ground and ready to install
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1206935150.jpg
How they mesh with the spiders and make it locked.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1206935148.jpg

This gives it a little play, so its a little easier on the axles.

Dishtowel

03-31-2008, 11:17 PM

Glad your rad is treating you well.

This gives it a little play, so its a little easier on the axles.

Thats one way to look at it.
I see it differently, I see that there is now hardhardhard gear teeth now being permitted to hammer and chip away at relatively softer weld metal, thus introducing metal shrapnel/garbage to the environment where your ring+pinion live and work. I doubt this will be a issue for you because this diff will only see limited miles, not like a highway vehicle.
Not trying to dis' what you did, just not what I would have done.
Cheers.

Loanranger

03-31-2008, 11:38 PM

The sami diff is a totally different animal than most diffs, the carrier is completely enclosed, so this is actually the only way to do it, and with the axles in, there is no way for any shavings to even see the ring and pinion. This is the way every sami owner I have known has done it, and haven't seen a single failure yet.

Dishtowel

04-01-2008, 01:29 AM

Huh, well, thats new. Coolcool. I will have to inspect one of those sami diffs whenever I get my hands on one!
The first time I heard of this 'weld some of the teeth' method it was some ignorant guy doing it on his daily driver, and well, it just made me laugh. I let him know that might lead to grief, but good riddance to ignorant types.

Loanranger

04-01-2008, 01:52 AM

Here's a few pics of the carrier, you have to pull that top cap to even get a glimpse of the spider and side gears. And I believe the first mistake of the guy you're talking about would be the two things "welded" and "DD" in the same sentence. Why you would even want to try that would be beyond me. Worst case is I bust a few teeth on the spiders and maybe snap a shaft.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1206935146.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1206935443.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1206935441.jpg

Loanranger

04-06-2008, 06:55 PM

Added a couple bumpstops between the rear springs and frame.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1207523096.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1207523145.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1207523092.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1207523093.jpg

These are just to stop metal to metal contact, and keep the rear tires from barely rubbing the tub.

Dishtowel

04-07-2008, 12:15 AM

Those look very tidy. good work.
And thanks for showing me that zuki third.

Dave

04-09-2008, 06:31 AM

Who makes tapered reamers that match the taper of ball joints? Thanks.

Dave

Thanks guys, tonight I got home and UPS finally brought my ream, so I reamed out the pitman arm and assembled the steering.

Loanranger

04-09-2008, 08:15 PM

Who makes tapered reamers that match the taper of ball joints? Thanks.

Dave

I got mine from Snap-on.

Loanranger

04-19-2008, 06:46 PM

Added a front hoop and connecter bars to make a little more of a cage, I think I may add a dash bar and a couple grab bars in the future.

The feet for the front hoop, the front bolt is the body bolt, the rear is plated under the floor. Not the strongest, but it will hold the weight of this thing.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1208644841.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1208644844.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1208644843.jpg

Jim Oaks

04-19-2008, 11:20 PM

I love this.

I want to build a Zuki for my daughter. Have my concerns about the wheelbase though....

Loanranger

04-19-2008, 11:54 PM

Thanks Jim, there are three ways around the wheelbase, I'm assuming your concern is it being so short. Although they are rather rare, there is a long wheelbase samurai. It's basically stretched between the doors and rear wheelwells. The second option is to make a long wheelbase, by extending the frame and tub. Just cut the frame and extend it, adding fish plates. For the tub, just find another tub for cheap, and cut the section out between the door and wheelwell, and you should be able to get roughly another foot. The third option would be what I did, link the rear and comp cut the tub. You can also either link the front, or play around with different springpacks to find one that will shift your front forward.

Jim Oaks

04-20-2008, 11:22 AM

My thoughts were to cut it behind the door and stretch it.

I thought ALL Samurais sold in the US were 78" wheelbase?

I wonder if you stretched it 16", if you could adapt it to a B2 frame?

mhughes165

04-20-2008, 11:41 AM

hey jim, this might give ya some ideas

http://nj4wheelers2.myfreeforum.org/ftopic211-0.php

i dont have all the other threads he ahd from builds thouhg, sorry

Loanranger

04-20-2008, 04:14 PM

My thoughts were to cut it behind the door and stretch it.

I thought ALL Samurais sold in the US were 78" wheelbase?

I wonder if you stretched it 16", if you could adapt it to a B2 frame?

The LWB Samurai's weren't imported by Suzuki to the US, but you can find them here, like I said, they're a little more rare here. They are by no means a rare vehicle though, many were imported to Canada, UK, and other countries. I have found a couple on Craigslist, and I'm sure you could find one in Canada quite easily. Your best bet would probably be to stretch a SWB though, cost wise.

Here is a link to some guys page and you can see the difference between the SWB and the LWB.

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.suzuki-4wd.nl/lwb/sam-lwb1.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.suzuki-4wd.nl/lwb/&h=307&w=410&sz=45&hl=en&start=7&sig2=Ot6TSxsGJdknlJwNqGFzdQ&tbnid=x6mdRjoHlJf1fM:&tbnh=94&tbnw=125&ei=qK8LSPLuFYKGgQOm2I3DAw&prev=/images%3Fq%3DLWB%2BSamurai%26gbv%3D2%26ndsp%3D20%2 6hl%3Den%26safe%3Doff%26sa%3DN

As far as stretching it and setting it on a B2 frame, though it could be done, I don't think it would be a wise decision. For one the B2 frame is heavier, c-channel, and more than likely too wide.

For your question on the automatic trans, the sidekick/tracker 8 or 16 valve engines are a popular swap, and they come with an automatic.

mhughes165

04-20-2008, 04:47 PM

anymore now a sami that isnt rusted as hell is hard to find,

i had a tracker with teh 16 valve motor, i kidnapped the gears from a 8 valve 5spd, along with the trans, swapped everything into my 16 valve tracker, installed a locker in the back, did a body lift, trimmed the fenders out and ran some nice meaty 31's.

only downside to playing with the trackers is the use of aluminum on the 3rd members.

that tracker would easily go every where a locked fullsize on 35's would without a question and would accelerate like nobodys business

i ended up with i believe

16 valve 1.6
5spd
5.19's locked in rear
31" tsl's

Loanranger

04-22-2008, 11:41 PM

Well, I guess at some point I bent the tierod, so tonight I decided to beaf it up a little. I cut the ends from the old tube, and used some 1.25" diameter
.250" wall DOM to make a new tierod. This is the same tube I used for my draglink.

Bent tierod next to the new tube
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1208924077.jpg

Size difference
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1208924078.jpg

Ends cut out of the old tube
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1208924074.jpg

Difference in wall thickness between new tube on left, and old tube on the right.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1208924079.jpg

compleckz

04-23-2008, 08:34 PM

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1208924079.jpg

:icon_hornsup:

if u bend that one, mad props.

mhughes165

04-23-2008, 08:43 PM

:icon_hornsup:

if u bend that one, mad props.

no...if he bends that its time to retire his balls to his future wife and stick to internet wheelin

Loanranger

04-23-2008, 10:53 PM

no...if he bends that its time to retire his balls to his future wife and stick to internet wheelin

:icon_rofl: Never! My balls are mine, and nobody can have them. ( Maybe a little fondling and sucking, but I get em right back. :icon_rofl:)

Actually, if anything bends now, it should be the TRE on the adjustment end, which is an easy replacement. And soon enough, I'd like to get some arms ordered to go OTT with them.

mhughes165

04-23-2008, 11:15 PM

Loanranger

04-24-2008, 12:00 AM

my buddy has some pics showing where he used benz parts todo a cheap OTT system on his sami, ill see if i cant find it

found it, hope u can get some use from it, dont mind the assholes comments afterwords, they like chebbies
http://nj4wheelers2.myfreeforum.org/about2858.html&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=mercedes+bens+ott+steering+axle+beef+pic s&start=0

I've seen this done before, but I don't like the fact that it leaves the draglink attached to the tierod. If I'm going to do it, I want the draglink on the arm.

Loanranger

04-29-2008, 10:29 PM

Finally got around to making some diff armor for the front diff, after denting it for the second time out at Elbe this past weekend. I had talked to a guy who was going to pick up a pipe cap and cut it down to make one for the front and rear, but a couple weeks went by, and haven't heard anything from him, so I decided to make something myself. The problem with the pipe caps, was trying to get up to the place to get them after work and before they close, so I ended up just making one from scratch. It's basically the same concept as a pipe cap, just took a little more work to make.

I started with some 1/4 inch flat plate, and cut a strip and bent it into a U shape to wrap under the front of the diff. Then I cut a half circle and beat it into submission, to curve it outwards from the diff. Welded these together at the sides, then took the plasma and removed an oval section, with half being removed from the bottom and half being removed from the front. I ground this opening flat, at a 45 degree plane to both front and bottom. Then cut another piece, kindof football shaped, and welded that over the opening. This just makes it so there isn't a sharp edge at the front leading edge. I welded it inside and out, and ground the outside to a nice radius, leaving the inside alone. Then I took a piece of 1/2 inch square solid stock, and wrapped it around the upper edge of the guard. This just stiffens up the top edge, and the remaining edges get welded to the housing. The last thing I did, was to take the plasma and cut a small drain notch at the very bottom, against the housing, so when the cap fills with water, it will drain out instead of collecting and rusting.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1209445341.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1209445342.jpg

This is how it fits up.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1209445345.jpg

Loanranger

05-09-2008, 02:10 AM

Did some "minor trimming" of the front sheetmetal the other night, my front upper shock towers were a little low, bottoming out through potholes, and limiting uptravel during articulation. I had about 1/8 of an inch between the tire and front sheetmetal before, and every once in a while, the tire would reach up and grab it. So I knew if I extended my shock towers upward, the tires would be grabbing it all the time. So I fired up the plasma, and this is what I came up with. Room to move, and room for bigger meats in the future.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1210219051.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1210219048-1.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1210219048.jpg

Tonight, I got the passenger side shock tower cut loose, and extended it upwards about 3 inches, so I have plenty of travel both ways now, about 4 inches up and 6 inches down. The extended shock towers are temporary, till I get around to tubing the front. I will be removing the fenders and front panel, and replacing them with tube, and keeping the grill and hood. Tomorrow I'll get the drivers side finished, and get some pics up, and get some flex pics. I tested it on the ramp tonight, when I finished the passenger side, and it definately gave it more uptravel, enough that I also need to trim a little more of the front bumper off and recap the ends.

dogboy

05-09-2008, 09:29 AM

Looks good.

There isn't going to be much "LJ" left when you're down with it, haha.

The addiction has taken it's course, it's too late to turn back now. You aren't satisfied with just 4 linking the rear, now you have to tube the frame to get the same effect as before. haha.

Loanranger

05-11-2008, 12:31 AM

The addiction has taken it's course, it's too late to turn back now. You aren't satisfied with just 4 linking the rear, now you have to tube the frame to get the same effect as before. haha.

Yep, It's just like crack, once you get started, it takes more and more to get the same effect. :icon_rofl:

I got the drivers side mount extended today, and also lopped off the bumper just outside of the front shackle hangers, and recapped the ends.
It was raining, so I did a little "garage wheeling" and flexed it out. I came up with another setback with the newfound flex. When the tires are turned to the drivers side, the draglink hits the spring at full stuff. I will be adding some bumpstops to keep this from happening, but I might also get a pitman arm with less drop to it.

The reworked shockmount
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1210479357.jpg

Full stuff
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1210479359.jpg

Draglink to spring interferance
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1210479358.jpg

41 inches of air under the back tire.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1210479356.jpg

mhughes165

05-11-2008, 08:22 AM

HAHAHAHAHA, im glad im not the only one that plans to be testing flex that way LOL

Sunk

05-12-2008, 12:01 AM

Holy crap dude, that thing is flexy! Maybe I'll see that on the trails sometime...

BlackBII

05-12-2008, 09:44 AM

Yeah, looks like there is a small amout of flex there, looks good! :icon_thumby:

Loanranger

05-14-2008, 09:34 PM

Thanks guys. Small update, today I ordered the 6.5:1 transfercase gears and a transfercase rebuild kit, should be here either friday or monday, so I'll get some pics up of the install, and maybe a vid of how slow it is when it's done.

dogboy

05-14-2008, 11:37 PM

I still like your idea of using a 4wd Ranger tranny and the divorced Sami transfercase. Or even better yet, use a 4wd tranny/ transfercase, and your 6.5 t-case. That would be some LOOOWW gears...

Loanranger

05-15-2008, 12:32 AM

I still like your idea of using a 4wd Ranger tranny and the divorced Sami transfercase. Or even better yet, use a 4wd tranny/ transfercase, and your 6.5 t-case. That would be some LOOOWW gears...

Haha, yeah, I would have to extend the wheelbase even more. With the 6.5:1 gears, I'll be at 96:1 final crawl with the stock 3.73 diff gears. With a 1350 in front of the 6.5 case, it would be 238:1 :headbang: Add sidekick 5.12 ring and pinion, and it would be 327:1 ;missingteeth; Or, like I was thinking, is I could get two sami cases geared at 6.5:1, and the sidekick gears, and be at 857:1 final crawl. :icon_twisted: I could also do the 2lo mod to the first case and run the front output from that as a pto. But all dreaming aside, with the power to weight ratio of the LJ, I think 96:1 final crawl will make it low enough. I just wish it would get here in time for this weekend.

Boggin-B-Series

05-15-2008, 10:01 PM

man i cant wait to see that in action, thats one flexy rig man

dogboy

05-15-2008, 10:57 PM

My dad did the 2low modification to the tranny in our old Samurai. It was nice having 2wd low without having to get out and unlock the hubs.

Loanranger

05-18-2008, 06:17 PM

Well, I got the transfercase gears in friday night, and made a run saturday, and couldn't be more pleased with the outcome. They work out great, most of the time I was running around in 3rd gear, except the technical stuff where I put it in first, and crawled right through, most of the time at idle or just above.

Next up is the rear disc conversion, I picked up a front axle and basically got 3 rears for free, plus another spare front longside shaft. So when I got them home, I tore down the front completely, set aside the caliper brackets, calipers, and rotors, and now I just need to get a set of the rear drums machined down into discs, which will bolt to the axle shafts, put the front studs in (longer), and the rotors will slide over those. I'll mock everything up on one of the spare rears, then when it's all ready, I'll install them on the existing rear housing.

I'm also going to be building some rock sliders for it here soon, which will be the start of the exo cage.

maitee1

05-20-2008, 09:30 AM

You are my hero :yahoo:

You should send in a video and stuff to PowerBlock on Spike. Maybe even take over some Xtreme 4x4. Because that thing is mad crazy extreme.

Loanranger

05-21-2008, 05:57 PM

The rear disc conversion is coming right along. I got the rear drums turned down into adapter plates and got one side all mocked up. I just need to get two of the old backing plates cut down into bearing retainers, and it will be all set to move over to the zuk. I've been mocking everything up on a spare rearend, and once all the parts are made, I can swap it all over the the rearend thats on the zuk, and weld on the brackets. Then I can get the rotors turned at work, and pick up some new pads. Here's a few pics for your viewing pleasure.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1211410149.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1211410146.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1211410145.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1211255340.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1211255338.jpg

mkpecor

05-21-2008, 07:17 PM

nice man.

Loanranger

05-23-2008, 09:11 PM

Well, I got the rear discs done tonight. Got them all installed, and bled, but I think I need to bleed them out a little more. Heres some pics.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1211592983.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1211592989.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1211592987.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1211592984.jpg

Boggin-B-Series

05-25-2008, 07:15 PM

man that thing is sick, we need to see some vids :icon_thumby:

Loanranger

05-25-2008, 07:58 PM

Here ya go Boggin, not the best vids, most were from my phone. I still gotta get a video camera.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=kdf9rqeWEdw

http://youtube.com/watch?v=9ZkLlCndaqI

http://youtube.com/watch?v=3cE51MJJkH8

http://youtube.com/watch?v=lDqgGwDvDN8

Here's another
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/Wazuks-evans-run-snowday_160265.htm

Boggin-B-Series

05-26-2008, 03:42 PM

awesome vids man, that truck is flexy as hell!

Loanranger

06-06-2008, 10:42 PM

Not much going on lately, been real busy with family, and working on my Dads ranger. I did however just pick up some harnesses tonight from a buddy, he got them awhile back to put in one of his trucks and never got around to it, needed some cash, so I picked them up for a deal.

G-force black 5 point harnesses. 2 of them :icon_hornsup:

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1212808051.jpg

Stumpy

06-06-2008, 10:45 PM

Liking the harnesses!

Loanranger

06-07-2008, 05:38 PM

Thanks stumpy, here they are installed.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1212878139.jpg

Now I can flop it and stay in....:shok:

Boggin-B-Series

06-07-2008, 09:27 PM

look really nice man,
this is a very good build!

Loanranger

06-20-2008, 01:07 AM

Got me a winch! Me and my dad each got a new xrc8, and been mounting them up last night and tonight. I built the cradle for his first, and after finishing his up tonight, I started in on mine. Got the majority of the cradle made, I just want to add a few pieces from the cradle to the outer edges of the bumper, to kindof tie everything together, and make it look a little better. Still have to drill the mounting holes, cut and drill the fairlead holes, and wire in the winch. Should be done tomorrow night, just in time to try them both out saturday. Here's a couple pics of tonights progress, I'll post up a couple finished product pics tomorrow night.
I had to offset it a bit to the passenger side to clear the steering box.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1213940028.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1213940027.jpg

Loanranger

06-21-2008, 12:37 AM

Got the winch bumper all done tonight, and the winch mounted and wired. Here's some pics.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1214025892.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1214025886.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1214026435.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1214025887.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1214025890.jpg

Rolled Ranger

06-21-2008, 03:39 PM

That is pretty sweet. I dont think you will need that very much for yourself but who knows. Looks good, man

dogboy

06-22-2008, 06:21 PM

Loosk good man. Like RolledRanger said, I doubt you will be using it for yourself much, haha.

Is a "xrc8" an 8000lbs. winch? I'm pretty my dad only had a 4500 winch on our old Samurai...

Loanranger

06-23-2008, 12:06 AM

Thanks guys. If I can find someone to run the busywild with me, I can guarantee I'll be using it then. Me and my dad went up for the work party yesterday, and most of the work was being done on the busy, so we wandered over there, and started our way through. We got to the first gnarly spot, and there were a couple fullsize blazers, and a couple toyotas there, the first blazer spit a cap off the ujoint on his front driveline, the second one blew the seal out of his steering box, and one of the toyotas exploded a birfield cup. After helping out there for a few, we decided to turn around, not wanting to break anything on my dads ranger. We headed off to the Easywild, and made a good run through there. I would like to run the busywild when I find someone equipped enough to run it with me.
Ever since I extended the front shock towers, I have been having troubles with the front driveline rubbing things. First it was the trans crossmember, so I cut the hoop out, and extended it up a couple inches. Then it started rubbing the trans bellhousing, and the plate between the motor and bellhousing. Well, aparently I have way too much flex up there, because at some point yesterday it ended up hitting the oilpan, which is a good 4 inches away at ride height. So yesterday on the way home from Elbe, I stopped and picked up some more DOM tube, so I could retube the driveshaft, which got bent hitting a bump and coliding with the trans crossmember. It was just a slight wobble, but between that and the two spots it had rubbed, I decided to just retube it. First I had to take care of a few things to keep it from rubbing again, so I started this morning by taking out the old shaft, and removing the front axle. I wanted to roll my pinion back down from where I had set it when I first built the rig. So I cut the perches off, cleaned them up, and set them back on. Before rolling the axle back under, I added a leaf per side that I had taken out awhile back to get some added flex. This will actually level it out a bit, cause the rig had a little rake towards the front, and with the added weight of the winch, it was looking like a shackled up GTO. So I got the leafs in, rolled the axle back under, and set my pinion angle to where I wanted it, and tacked the perches on. Rolled the axle back out, and welded the perched the rest of the way on, and back under the rig it went. I got the front end buttoned up, and moved on to rebuilding the driveshaft. I ground and knocked the ends out, cut the new piece of tube, and pressed the ends into the new tube, making sure both ends were perfectly in phase. The shaft is bolted in now, ready to balance out, tack, and pull back out to fully weld the ends on, which I will get to tomorrow night.
The bellhousing/plate where the driveshaft was rubbing. Luckily no break through.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1214195124.jpg

The oilpan where the pinion and ears of the driveshaft yoke collided
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1214195128.jpg

A shot of the front axle out.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1214195131.jpg

And dogboy, yes the xrc8 is an 8000 lb winch, really shouldn't need that much, but for the price, I couldn't justify getting anything smaller.

dogboy

06-23-2008, 08:16 PM

Loanranger

06-23-2008, 10:31 PM

Yeah, that's true, can't pass up good deals!!

I'll run the Busy-Wild with you!!!

Just joking....

I wanna try the 311 and a few other trails at Evans this summer though. I bet everything at Evans Creek is getting to easy for the Zuk isn't it? And Tahuya... The only thing remotely challenging is probably the rock pile, right?

We'll just wrap a bunch of bubble wrap around your truck, and you should be just fine... ;missingteeth;

This next weekend I'll be up at Elbe again with some guys from Wazuks, but the weekend after that, the weekend of the 4th, I'm gonna head back up to Evans to see how much snow has melted. The 102 and the 311 are a walk in the park with Fordzuki, but I'd like to hit some of the other trails, 196, 197, and 198 spedcifically. When I built the zuk, I had Evans in mind, so it's gonna be fun seeing how it works out on some of the harder trails. Tahuya is getting too easy, it seems like I always come back with damage though, cause I'm trying to make it chalenging. The rocks and the couple hill climbs are about the extent of the fun out there for me, and those few things aren't really worth the drive for me now that Elbe and parts of Evans are snow free. I would like to get up into some snow before it's all gone at Evans, now that I have a winch to get me out of trouble.

As an update, I got the front driveshaft retubed tonight, had a hell of a time balancing it out, because one of the ends lost it's tolerance and kept wanting to pop out, but I got it trued, and it spins straight with no wobble. I also ground one little weld that was still barely rubbing on the trans crossmember, ground the lower lip of the bellhousing out a little, and took a hammer to the oilpan to even out the dent. ;missingteeth; Should be good to go now. I just have to wait on the paint to dry on the driveshaft and reinstall it. I took it out on the road in 2wd high, and let go of the wheel, and it stays straight in both forward and reverse, and the steering seems alot better now with the caster back in spec. I didn't realize it the first time, but by trying to keep the pinion up, I had put the caster at 1* negative, which isn't all that bad for a trail only rig, but it did tend to wander at speed on the gravel roads between trails. Now it's back at about 2-3* positive, so not only does it ride like a cadilac, it handles like a ferrari....:icon_twisted:

dogboy

06-24-2008, 09:47 AM

If you don't mind, I might like to tag along on that Evans run on the 4th. I guess there is a rock crawling comp out at funny rocks at Naches on July 5th supposedly. Not sure if that's true, but it is a bit of a drive too for a couple hours of watching. My dad wanted to go, and the only car we have that will get to Funny Rocks is my Ranger, so if he really wants to go, then I'll have to do that instead of Evans Creek.

Now you just need to paint it bright red and slap ferrari emblems on it!

Loanranger

06-24-2008, 07:23 PM

You're always welcome to tag along. I was thinking about going to the funnyrocks comp too, but like you said, it's a pretty far drive just to watch.

dogboy

06-25-2008, 12:29 AM

Have you headr anythign else about the Funny Rocks thing, or just what I've said? I've searched a few things and haven't found anything.

Loanranger

06-25-2008, 01:25 AM

Nope, just heard about it from your thread.

dogboy

06-25-2008, 08:57 PM

Which day were you planning on going to Evans? The 5th, or 6th?

I'm going to talk to my dad about what we are going to do, but honestly, I'd rather go to Evans Creek. That and I can't find anything about the Comp. if I search Google, and haven't seen anything on any of the other North-West sites.

EDIT: Just talked to my dad, and I'm not going to the Rock Crawl thing. Ah, I hate taking over your thread.... Let me know which day you are going to Evans so I know when to go up.

Loanranger

06-25-2008, 11:32 PM

I'll be heading up saturday (the 5th) for Evans creek, I had a shortlived dream of heading up friday and spending the night, but it's still too cold up there to camp. Probably head out of here at 8am, so i would be up at the entry parking unloading by 9am.
As far as the rock comp goes, I have heard very little mention of it in the nnr thread on nww, but nothing definative. I would just assume run Evans anyway, if I went up to the rocks and it was open to anyone, I could see myself really fawking the LJ up, competing with buggies.

And as far as threadjacking goes, I'm not one of those thread nazis, the way I look at it, is anything is a bump to bring it to the top, so people who may not have found it might find it. :icon_cheers:

dogboy

06-26-2008, 12:19 AM

Ok, cool, I'll aim for being there at 8:30-9 then. I never want to be the one that people wait for, haha.

EDIT: dang, that is the day after the 4th of July... I guess I won't be up too late, haha.

84projectFORD

07-17-2008, 11:37 PM

Loanranger

07-19-2008, 01:28 AM

absolutly awesome build!! my sami is not quite like that but is does really well! One question though, why not swap in toyota axles? I did that in our sami and i know i will never have to worry about them breakin from hoppin or too much torque from the sami. was really cheap to do, only did it because we busted the front hubs out on the sami axles and didnt want to have to worry about them again. plus to them also is they are 4 inches wider over all too

Thanks.
The reason for the sami axles, is because they are readily available, less expensive, and I have yet to break one. They are already 8 inches wider than the original LJ axles, so I don't need it any wider. Outside of tire to outside of tire is right at 66", and the wheelbase is 87", so any wider isn't really needed. Do you have any pics of the busted hub? Was it a stock Aisin?

On a side note, I did a little work on the LJ this past week. The last trip to Evans this past weekend resulted in a little carnage. The first thing was the common Weber inclination stall, which basically floods out the carb on climbs, and is an interesting setback in the middle of a "make it or die hill". This was mainly caused though, by the lack of fuel pressure regulator, and an unknown pressure from the pump. I had been meaning to buy one, and tonight I found one in my shop I didn't know I had. :icon_confused: So I hooked it up, and tried out the ramp, and it was idling at the top of the ramp, something it wouldn't do before. So this problem seems to be solved.

The second problem last weekend, was a broken secondary leaf in the rear quarter elliptical pack. Luckily it wasn't the mainleaf, so I was able to continue down the trail, and back to camp before doing a trail fix on it. I just took the piece that was held in by the centering pin out, and stuffed the leaf end in up to the centering pin, and cinched it down again. This kept me wheeling the rest of the weekend, but got fixed this week. I took the old packs out, which were made of the mainleaf and a secondary from a Ranger rear springpack. I replaced these with a mainleaf from a dodge ramcharger rear springpack. These are about 3/8ths inch thick, compared to the rangers 3/16ths? With just the mainleafs, it is a little stiffer than with 2 leafs per side with the ranger springs. So this problem is solved, and I will now carry the good side of the old set, in case one of the new ones should break on the trail.

And the third was something I should have done awhile ago, and that was to ditch the "coffee can" muffler. The big chrome one that all the ricers have. I thought it would be funny, and was what I had laying around when I went to build the exhaust the first time. I replaced it with a cherrybomb turbo style muffler, and while I had it apart, I welded up a small leak that had been bugging me. I put a chrome 45 slant cut tip on the end, and it quieted it down quite a bit. It did seem to cut the power a little, it doesn't rev as quickly anymore. So this is temporarily fixed. It sounds good, but I need a muffler with a little better flow. It may be getting a flowmaster here soon. :D

I'll try and get some pictures up of the carnage on the spring, and the new springs and exhaust.

84projectFORD

07-19-2008, 08:23 PM

Thanks.
The reason for the sami axles, is because they are readily available, less expensive, and I have yet to break one. They are already 8 inches wider than the original LJ axles, so I don't need it any wider. Outside of tire to outside of tire is right at 66", and the wheelbase is 87", so any wider isn't really needed. Do you have any pics of the busted hub? Was it a stock Aisin?

oh i see. didnt know that teh LJ had shorter axles. that explains it though. unfortunately i dont have any pics as we threw the old hub away, it was stock though

Loanranger

07-26-2008, 09:53 PM

Alright, I've been slacking on the pics, but I've gotten alot done on the LJ the last week or so.

Here's pics of the previously mentioned mods.

The carnage, the top leaf in the picture is the one that broke. The bottom one is the main leaf.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1217124599.jpg

Fuel pressure regulator
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1217124602.jpg

New leaf, Just a single mainleaf from a dodge ramcharger rear. It's a little stiffer with just the one leaf as it was with two leafs from the Ranger pack.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1217124605.jpg

No more rice. ;missingteeth; Cherry Bomb Turbo muffler with 2.5" in and out
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1217124603.jpg

And the new sliders I made up.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1217124265.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1217124271.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1217124266.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1217124270.jpg

mkpecor

07-26-2008, 10:22 PM

nice der, diggin it.

Loanranger

07-27-2008, 11:26 PM

CARNAGE! Well, the good news is the sliders work great, rubbed the drivers side from front to back today, and it worked great. Also used them to jack the front tire off the ground on both sides.

The carnage included 1 broken birfield cup, 1 broken starter ear :dunno:, and a crankcase full of water. The first happened backing up a vertical rock wall (literally) with the wheels turned. I think a guy wheeling with us got a picture of it, I'll post it later if he did. The starter ear, I have no idea when it happened, but it has been making noise for a while now, I thought it was just mud in the bellhousing. Got to the point today where the armature stuck, and wouldn't let the starter disengage from the flywheel. Pulled the starter and got it started again, but it'll need a new one cause of the broken ear. And the water in the crankcase happened when I submerged the LJ on the swamp trail. Hoping it sucked water in rather than blowing a headgasket.... I guess we'll find out tommorow. Pics of the damage to follow.

Loanranger

07-29-2008, 12:04 AM

Well, I got a chance to dig into it tonight. I went and bought a case of oil, and two filters, and drained the oil/water. I ended up draining about 2 gallons from the motor, so it was about a 50/50 mix of oil and swamptrail water. :icon_rofl: I drained, it, pulled the old filter, and poured 3 quarts of new oil straight through. It was barely starting to clear up after the 3rd quart, so I put the plug in, put on the first new filter, and filled it with 4 quarts. I started it up, and after a second, the oil pressure shot right up to 60 psi where it belongs, and let it sit and idle for a few, then brought it up to about 1250 rpms, and let it sit there for a few minutes, and then let it idle again. The smoke was totally gone, so thats a good sign, I was worried a little about the rings, but all was looking good. I revved it up to about 3500 a few times, and shut it off. Pulled the plug and filter again, and it was looking a little cleaner than the first time, but not much. By the end of the drain, it was looking pretty clean with a few grey swirls coming out, so I stopped there, and will do one more oil change tomorrow night, and it should be good. I pulled the fuel pump block off plate (which I think was the culprit of why the water got sucked in) and looked in with a flashlight. Everything looked pretty clean, so I think I should be good to go after one more flush and a refill.

I moved on from here to pulling the right front shaft, where I was pretty sure the birf had cracked and spewed it's guts, and sure enough, it was. I pulled the hub and spindle, and tried to pull the shaft, but couldn't cause the guts of the birf were lodged, so I had to pull the knuckle, and that is when parts started falling out. I knew the birf was done for, but I was hoping to have a good inner shaft still, but no luck. Basically, the bell cracked, balls dislodged, then the star and cage exploded into little bits, and it marred up the splines pretty good, and pulled the clip off the end. No biggy, that's why I have spare shafts laying around. And it just happened to be the long side, which I have two of, so now I still have a complete spare set left after installing the one long side.

So anyways, as promised, heres some pics

How I swamped the motor.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/stuck.jpg

How I popped the birf, backing up this hill.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/birfpop.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1217306444.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1217306436.jpg

The cracked bell
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1217306443.jpg

The guts
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1217306437.jpg

Sunk

07-29-2008, 11:25 AM

Nice shots, and nice carnage. Sliders look good too.

dogboy

07-29-2008, 09:07 PM

Looks good, not so much the oil or burf., but the rig! haha

So is it being taken to Evans this weekend then?
It'd be nice to have atleast one other 4wd, not just a quad...

Loanranger

07-29-2008, 11:57 PM

I'll be there come hell or highwater. I just posted in the regional forums about a poker run on saturday that's going to be there, so I'll probably run that.
I got the pan pulled tonight, just to check everything out, and to wipe the pan out, and everything looked good. There was a little milk in the bottom of the pan, but everything wasn't coated in there like I was fearing. I have to put it back on tomorrow, and flush it one more time, then refill with a new filter and it should be good. The cylinder walls looked awesome, so I don't think there is any damage there, the rings just might not last to 100k miles now. :D I got the new shaft in tonight too, I just need to button up the spindle and hub, and I'll be all set there. And as far as the starter is concerned.... I pulled it tonight, to pull the pan, and the nosecone is definately aluminum like I thought, so I won't be welding the ear back on like I was hoping, I'd like to find a nosecone off a bad starter, but I doubt that will happen. I will more than likely pick up a new one on the way out of town friday, and install it at camp.

mototrevo

09-15-2008, 03:14 PM

ive just bought a 88 samurai yesterday and its nedding an engine, what problems did you run into doing the swap? other than the radiator in the back and motor mounts, all the obvious stuff?

Loanranger

09-20-2008, 08:35 PM

ive just bought a 88 samurai yesterday and its nedding an engine, what problems did you run into doing the swap? other than the radiator in the back and motor mounts, all the obvious stuff?

The swap is really fairly simple. Like you said, the motor and tranny mounts, the radiator you might be able to get away with in the front. There's a bit more room under the hood of your sami than the lj. Take all the wiring with the motor and trans, and get a good wiring schematic, so you can simplify the harness. You'll need to make a short adapter shaft to go between the trans and transfercase.

mototrevo

10-06-2008, 07:19 PM

ive set the engine down betweeen the rails right about where i want it and measured the space ive got to fit a tranny(4speed) and im coming up about 4inches too long. like its passed the transfer case 4 inches. are there different types of bell houseings or what can i do to make this thing shorter? wait you lengthened your frame right so did the engine get moved forward also?

Thanks any help is appreciated!!

Loanranger

10-06-2008, 08:27 PM

You're going to have to move the transfercase back. If it's still on the stock arms, this would be a good time to make a cradle for it, using the stock mounts, plus the holes around the rear output. There should be a picture back in the first couple pages of this thread of mine.

I didn't lengthen the frame on mine, and the LJ is shorter than the samurai. When you move the transfercase back, you'll have to shorten your rear driveline, and extend your front.

mototrevo

10-07-2008, 09:20 PM

thats what i thought it would come down to... thanks

Loanranger

10-08-2008, 01:21 AM

If you do the shafts yourself, 2" .120 wall dom works great.

compleckz

10-18-2008, 01:29 PM

still love this rig

blackdog76

10-19-2008, 07:26 PM

Much nicer than the Zuk I saw on a K5 Frame, that thing was hedious

doorgunner

12-01-2008, 10:35 PM

Super Freaky :icon_hornsup:

Loanranger

12-20-2008, 12:31 AM

Small progress. Since the build, I haven't had windshield wipers, or rather a motor. Because the original motor was locked up. A samurai wiper motor will work, but with the roll cage, the motor wouldn't fit anyways. So I came up with this idea after using the linkage to manually wipe the windshield.

So I used an old Ranger window regulator and crank handle, cut the stub that the handle fits off the regulator, and welded it onto the back of the drivers side wiper stud. This is what I came up with, and it works great. And best part is, no wiring. :D

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1229745793.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1229745794.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1229745792.jpg

dogboy

12-20-2008, 01:10 AM

Oh! I thought you were saying you used a power window motor for it, not just the hand crank type regulator.

woodyedmiston

12-27-2008, 08:54 PM

That is the only Suzuki I've ever seen that I liked. Great stance.

ranger sport honduras

01-01-2009, 08:05 PM

thats one crazy......thing but its cool!!!

Loanranger

01-10-2009, 11:30 PM

Well, it's getting new springs here shortly.

Today I broke another halfleaf on the back, this time it was the dodge leaf running mono, so the back corner collapsed. The axle was still held by the links, and the shackle was supporting the rig somewhat, so I ratchet strapped it together so the leaf wouldn't fall and pull the shackle forward.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0086.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0087.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0090.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0091.jpg

So for now, I'm going to run the good monoleaf on the left side, and the old set of ranger leafs on the right side, that should get me through wheeling this next weekend, and then I'll swap them out for the set in my ranger. We used Exploder springs in the back of my dad's ranger, so his old set of ranger springs will get cut in half, and used in the LJ.

It has also come time to replace the front springs, which if you remember are Datsun pickup rear leafs. I have another set of mainleafs, but not complete packs, so I will probably end up mixing and matching some leafs in. The other option I've been researching, is Pinto rear leafs are the same dimensions, 47" eye to eye, 2.5 wide, but the centering pin is at ~19" compared to the Datsuns ~21.5. So it would essentially move my axle forward another ~2.5" which would be nice, other than the fact the steering box is already as far forward as it can possibly be. It's either that or move the rear spring hanger back 2.5 inches.... :dunno:

Loanranger

01-21-2009, 12:38 AM

Well, it's looking like it's time for the overhaul. In the next month or so, I'll be pulling the engine out for rebuild. IF I don't find a suitable donor in the meantime, the 2.3 will get a rebuild, nothing fancy, just a basic rebuild.

I'll also be redoing the exhaust (again), ujoints throughout, tranny seals, brake master cyl, front springs, rear springs, and I'm thinking about TG 26 spline birfields, just as insurance.

Tonight, I started fiddling with something I've been wanting to try for awhile now, and after alot of winching this weekend, I finally decided to add a hand throttle on the dash. I bought a cheap choke cable from the HELP section of the local parts store. It was $6.99. It is just the cable w/ sleeve, and handle, with a nut to fasten the handle to the dash.

I started by finding a bolt in the drawer to thread into the existing hole in the throttle cable bracket. I had to ream the hole out a bit, and tap it. Then I took the allen head bolt, and drilled the center out just big enough for the cable but not the sleeve. The sleeve fits down into the allen key recess. I have not decided how to retain the sleeve in the bolt yet, but one thought is a setscrew drilled into the side of the head of the bolt. Another thought was to just tackweld the sleeve to the bolt, but this would make engine removal more tedious. As for the attachment to the throttle linkage, I am experimenting around with a small rotating linkage assembly I made out of 1/8th inch plate, and a piece of 3/16ths inch rod. The linkage assembly basically has a pivot bolt up top, which bolts to another existing hole in the throttle cable bracket. In a triangle from this, there is a hole to the engine side of the linkage, with the dowel protruding out 1/2". On the outer side, is the hand throttle cable. Basically, when you pull the cable, it pivots on the upper bolt, and the dowel pushes on a set screw on the original throttle cable. This allows the throttle to be applied with the foot pedal, without the hand throttle pushing out of the dash.
I need to finish up a couple things on it tomorrow night, and I'll get the finished pics up.

Loanranger

01-22-2009, 01:17 AM

Here's some pics of the linkage, I used a nylock nut on the bolt, so it would stay tight, but allow movement to pivot.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0160.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0163.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0168.jpg

I got it all working tonight, I was hoping to be able to pull it out and have it set at a higher idle, but it self returns when you let go. I was going to get a few pics of it, maybe a vid in action, but the battery died in the camera. I'll get a few up tomorrow.

Loanranger

01-24-2009, 01:49 AM

Here's some pics of the assembly, and a short video of it working. It still needs refinement, but it works.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0170.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0177.jpg

Shitty vid, but you get the picture. I've found that it's easiest to set the idle with the pedal, then hold it there by hand while winching.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/th_100_0184.jpg (http://s157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/?action=view&current=100_0184.flv)

And of course, me "hard at work" in the garage. :icon_twisted:
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0186.jpg

I was out in the garage cleaning up a bit tonight, and looking over the LJ, and I think it's gonna be in for some major changes. Being the small rig that it is, I've been cramped for space since I built it. With the radiator in the back, and the fuelcell/pump back there, there isn't much room for anything else. So, to rectify the situation, I'm going to completely redo the floor from the seats back. Seatmounts will be moved back for more legroom, the rear of the floor will be raised slightly, for an underbed fuel cell. The radiator will get moved back slightly, to accomadate for the seats, as well as a possible half-cab top in the future. I basically want to maximize my space, and the floor is getting in the way of doing that. :icon_welder:

This new toy should help out in the building of the new floor. :icon_hornsup:
I need to get the third roller for the rolls to work, but it's got a brake and shear too.. :icon_hornsup:
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0157.jpg

Loanranger

01-24-2009, 07:08 PM

I've been meaning to do this for awhile now, just never got around to it. I know there are better things I could have been doing, but I didn't feel like it...:icon_twisted:

The idea was something like a 4 wheel drive cherry picker..... Not neccesarily able to pull engines, but more for moving heavy objects around the gravel lot out back. I've gotten quite a collection of axles, transfercases, etc.. out there, and every now and again, I need to move one.

So I dreamed this up, and started cutting and welding. :icon_welder:

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0191.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0188.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0190.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0189.jpg

It attaches to the old front shackle hangers, from the original front springs. It just pivots on those, and the up/down is handled by the winch. It worked out great, lifts D44s and a NP203 with ease. :icon_thumby: I may make an extension sometime, to allow it to lift higher.

A video of it in action.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/th_100_0187.jpg (http://s157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/?action=view&current=100_0187.flv)

dogboy

01-24-2009, 09:58 PM

haha, that lift is awsome!!!

Does the mount unbolt or anything? It seems like it would get in the way on the trail. Even once you take the bar off, that foot or so of box sticking out would REALLY take away from your approach angle, I would think.

EDIT: Wait, I see how it works... The bar does not pivot where the ben in the box metal is, it pivots back by the frame.

My original post is pointless...

Loanranger

01-24-2009, 10:48 PM

Yeah, it attaches to the old shackle hangers. So when I pull two bolts and the winch hook, there is nothing on the rig that wasn't before. I don't plan on running with it on the trails, maybe for cleanups and stuff, but it would bolt up for the work, and be taken off for trail riding. I was joking with my dad, we should mount it on his truck to carry around for when I need to use it.

I used it again tonight, to support the datsun frame out here, to pull the rearend with springs. I then grabbed the rearend (ford 9"), and brought it into the shop to grab the springs off it (with air). Then used it to take the 9" back out to the pile of diffs. I love this thing. :D It makes what used to be a hassle, so much easier and fun. :headbang:

I started pulling the springpacks apart, they will be going in the front of the LJ, to replace the very worn old ones. I'm taking the overloads out like last time, but adding some bottom leafs from IIRC, the dodge springs, but I could be wrong. Anyhow, they are a nice 1/4 inch in the middle, and taper out from there. They have clamps on both ends, which happen to be right where the tires were hitting in reverse and slapping the bottom leaf of the datsun packs. I'll get some pics up when I get in from the garage, this computer isn't fast enough to upload pictures.

Loanranger

01-25-2009, 08:16 PM

:pissedoff: Well, I thought I had a good thing lined up, but someone else got to it before me. I found an 87 t-bird turbo coupe on craigslist, had a bad torque converter seal, for $400 obo. It would have made for a badass swap in the LJ, but I still got time to look.

So today I spent the day making the new springpacks, and changing them out on the front. I took two more datsun packs I had, and added a leaf from a ramcharger pack, and ended up with this.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0199.jpg

Here is an old vs. new pic.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0200.jpg

Messing around with a ranger leafpack, this is bolted in in the rear. :icon_surprised:
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0195.jpg

New on the passenger side, old on the driver. It netted about 3" of lift.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0201.jpg

Sits a little low in the rear now....
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0204.jpg
I'll probably fix that with all three leafs out of a ranger pack, cut into half leafs.

Poser shot on the 35 on the burb
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0208.jpg

Of course I had to try the springs out with the new hoist. :icon_twisted:
It wouldn't pick it all the way up, but with 3 psi in the front tires, they were squatting pretty good. didn't reverse arch the springs at all. :icon_thumby:
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0211.jpg
Time for some tractor weights on the back....

dogboy

01-25-2009, 08:41 PM

Is it just me, or does it seem like those got rid of most all of your flex??

It looks liek the front doesn't flex at all...

It may be a good thing you didn't get the turbo motor, you might have needed to add a wheelie bar as well!

Loanranger

01-25-2009, 09:26 PM

It definately cut down on the flex. I knew it would, but with as much as it had, it was starting to cause problems. The tires don't even come close to the springs anymore, the pitman arm doesn't come close to the spring anymore, and the front driveline won't come in contact with the starter and bellhousing anymore. I've yet to try backing up anything with it yet, that gives a better Idea of how it can flex, because you have more of the weight on the front suspension. Another thing I need to address now, is my shocks are limiting my droop. So I'll have to get new shocks, which I need anyway, and I'll probably redo my lower mounts when I do. I can and will wheel it untill then though, it's nothing that's gonna break.

I'm also realizing that being locked front and rear, I really don't need that much flex, and the added sidehill stability of going with a little stiffer springpack is a decent tradeoff.

I'm still going to search for a turbo motor, my heart is set on it now. I was going to borrow the money till tax time anyways, so I'll just keep searching till I get my return, and hopefully find a better deal.

dogboy

01-25-2009, 10:55 PM

I don't think you're gonna find much of a better deal that the $400 for the whole car...

I guess your right about the locker and flex thing. On my dad's old Sami, we had close to no flex, and locked front and rear, yet it went almost anywhere.

Loanranger

01-29-2009, 10:25 PM

Ok, deal #2, a pinto with 4 cyl and manual trans for $350 obo. I'm going to look at it saturday morning, and even if it's a 2 liter, I'll pick it up and run it while I rebuild the 2.3. The girl says it runs and drives good, it just needs an interior.
I've decided to save the turbo 2.3 for another project, which will be another fordzuki. But a little more badass. :icon_thumby:

I spent a little time in the garage tonight, I cut my dads old ranger leafs down to length, and got the holes popped in the 3 leafs for the passenger side. I installed that side, just to see how it looks, and it leveled it out pretty well. I've got to grab some longer bolts tomorrow, and I'll finish it up and get some pics.

Loanranger

02-02-2009, 03:07 PM

The pinto didn't work out either, I was ready to drag it home, had the cash in my pocket, and come to find out the guy had sold the wheels and tires off of it, didn't have anything to make it a roller, still wanted $300, and the motor was a horrible leaker.
I've looked at a couple others, mostly injected 2.3s, but we'll see.

I just got off the phone with trailtough, ordered up my chromo front axles, and a lockrite to get rid of the welded, since I have to change the side gears out anyways, I figured I'd just throw a lockrite in while I'm in there.

I also bought another new project, an 83? SJ410, it's basically body and frame, on roller axles. I also got with the deal, a sami transfercase, and a rear D44 that has already been cut down and offset for a sami, and stuffed with 5.38 gears. Not sure if this is gonna be another fordzuki or maybe a dodgezuki... :dunno:

dogboy

02-02-2009, 11:40 PM

How would it be a Dodgezuki? Would that be by puttign a Dodge mototr in it, or fullsize Dodge axles, or what?

Does an SJ have a bigger motor than the LJ's did? I don't follow that line up too much other than than Samurais.

EDIT: What are the 36" swampers for? I was looking through the for sale stuff on NW-Wheelers, and I saw that you responded to the 36" swampers. I haven't checked back on the ad yet, but if you didn't buy them, I'm going to mention them to my cousin for his Scout.

Loanranger

02-02-2009, 11:54 PM

If it became Dodgezuki, it would be a 318 np435 203/205 d60 rear and an 8 lug 44 till I can scrounge up enough cash for a front 60.

I finally got the pics of the rear springs, and I picked up a little something tonight.....:D

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0231.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0230.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0232.jpg

:icon_hornsup: 36x13.50x15 Iroks on 15x10 black soft 8s.

I picked them up cheap for the SJ410, If I end up with the 60s under it, I'll probably end up selling these to fund the bigger meats. Because of the backspacing on the rims, I'm gonna have to get spacers to run them on the LJ, they hit the springs at full lock. I'm gonna see if I can find some spacers for them just to run for a couple runs, then they'll be coming off, and the 34s will go back on.

dogboy

02-03-2009, 12:29 AM

Ah, damn, you did buy the 36's! lol

I guess you responded before I got my last poste edited.

If you go to sell those Iroks, let me know and I'll talk to my cousin.

84projectFORD

02-03-2009, 12:21 PM

if you didnt change the bolt patter ont eh sami axles i think i stil have mine before teh axle swap i could sell ya?

Loanranger

02-03-2009, 01:11 PM

if you didnt change the bolt patter ont eh sami axles i think i stil have mine before teh axle swap i could sell ya?

Who is this directed at? Are you talking the wheel spacers or tires and wheels?

Loanranger

02-04-2009, 11:53 PM

Sale pending on the Iroks... :D

I got my chromos and lockrite in today, so I went to work installing them. I had to first pull the thirdmember out of a spare rear, that had a leaky pinion seal and bad pinion bearing. So I sacrificed this third for the sidegears, which are 26 spline, as opposed to the front sidegears which are 22 spline. The chromo axles are 26 spline and match the diameter of the rear axleshafts. I needed the sidegears to go with the locker, because the sidegears mesh better than the optional couplers they sell. :icon_confused:

So I got the sidegears swapped out, locker installed, and the third back in the housing, and one of the shafts slid in. It's quite an ordeal getting the new birfs into the ball on the housing. :D

I'll finish the rest up tomorrow night, I want to repack all the bearings, and change out the other seal and felt on the drivers side, the passenger side I just did when I swapped out the last broken birf.

Aside from my near future motor and trans swap, I'll be pretty much done with the mechanical of this rig, and ready to start on the next one. :icon_hornsup:

I still want to add a little more body protection up top, but I don't want to go with a full exo, maybe a couple strategically placed slider bars.....

Then it'll be done.... for now.....:icon_rofl:

Anyways, enough of my ramblings, I'll reward you with some pics. :icon_thumby:

This is the start of the new project. 84? Suzuki Sj410 (still pre samurai) with the front half of a tin top grafted on. I'll be enclosing the back wall, and making somewhat of a pickup out of it. Enclosed for winter wheeling. :icon_thumby:
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0234.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0235.jpg

Birfs: New vs. Old
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0249.jpg

New vs. old
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0250.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0253.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0254.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0255.jpg

Swimming for sidegears.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0257.jpg

The tiny little sami lockrite. :icon_rofl:
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0258.jpg

26 spline sidegear on 26 spline axle
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0259.jpg
26 spline sidegear on 22 spline axle
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0260.jpg

Where I left off tonight.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0265.jpg

Interesting note* these are the 22 spline sidegears I welded to "spool" the front originally. These have been abused and have seen two broken birfs. I've been running them for about a year.. HARD. As you can see, the spiders have started compressing the welds, but aside from the indents, there is no visible stress or wear on either the spiders or side gears. :icon_thumby:

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0267.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0268.jpg

OK nuff for tonight.

Loanranger

02-07-2009, 04:56 PM

Alright, it's finally together. I ended up doing a used part rebuild with spares I've pulled fromt he various front axles I've acquired. The inner wheelbearing on the drivers side was solid with rust and mud. The races had seen better days, so I hammered them out, and sunk some new ones into the hub.

I tried it out a little last night, but it was late and very wet, but the lockrite up front seemed to help tremendously. So this morning, after cleaning up the shop for a couple hours, I decided to go play around a little more in the yard with it.

I played around in the culvert and didn't get any slippage. The lockrite is quiet, I can't even here it ratchet in 4lo, first gear, taking a sharp turn into my driveway on dry asphalt. :icon_thumby: The turning radius is back to what it was when I was running open diff, so I'm glad about that, and it was $200 well spent on the locker.

Heres a few pics playing around in the yard, the suburban broke the RTI ramp, so I had to improvise. :icon_rofl:

First the ramp
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0269.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0270.jpg

Then the barrel (35")
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0271.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0272.jpg

Then just the truck (40") :headbang:
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0275.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0276.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0277.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0278.jpg

Kindof liked this view
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0279.jpg

And a quick vid dropping down the barrel.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/th_100_0281.jpg (http://s157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/?action=view&current=100_0281.flv)

I also lengthened the lower links out back about 1.25" to roll the pinion down a little, this made my super short drive shaft too short. With the right rear tire hanging, it was still together till I touched it, and the slipjoint came apart. :annoyed: So I took it all apart and cleaned up the slip, and used a TG 1" driveline spacer I had overstocked from a previous job. This made everything work perfectly again.

Sunk

02-07-2009, 09:22 PM

Nice, that thing is still flexy as hell. I agree on the last shot, that's cool. That's also pretty impressive what it did to the spiders.

Loanranger

02-08-2009, 01:35 PM

Finally found a motor and trans to swap in, but it's gonna be a little more involved than just a straight swap. I picked up a 97 Mazda 2300 with the 2.3 and mazda 5 speed. The truck had been rolled so the whole body is fawked, but the motor and trans look cleaner than the 2.9 in my ranger, and has comparable miles at 130,000. :headbang: It runs great, fired right up, and even with the clutch slipping, there was no noise shifting through the gears. He said the clutch is shot, but it still drove onto the trailer no problems.

So now I need to find a clutch kit for it, and get all the plumbing and wiring isolated from the truck to get ready to pull. I'll get some pics up of the truck and engine shortly.

Loanranger

02-10-2009, 11:30 PM

Ok, new plan, as you all have probably seen with the Mazzuki thread. I plan to leave the pinto motor in the LJ, and wheel it till A) catastrophic failure noted by a loud and quick "Kachunk!!?!!" and look for a new donor, or B) wheel it till the mazzuki is finished, and do a complete rebuild. I'm hoping for option B, and quite frankly am surprised option A hasn't become neccesary yet. :icon_twisted:

So tonight I started fiddling around with an idea that had been floating around in my noggin. I had originally planned on an external loop around the windshield, with the likely addition of a full exo soon after.

Well, after toying around with the idea, I decided I didn't want to disrupt or block anymore of the body than I already have, and leave it exo-less. This posed a new problem of what to do about protection for the windshield frame in the event of a flop, or the everpresent Northwest threat of leaning into trees, banks, rocks, etc....

So I came up with this, it's a "roof slider" of sorts, just an addition to the cage which protrudes out to the outer edge of the windshield frame, and a little beyond.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0298.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0297.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0296.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0308.jpg

It also fills the gap between the top of the door and the bikini top, and allows the top to be mounted flat, instead of pulled down in the back corners.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0299.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0300.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0301.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0302.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0303.jpg

I still have the other side to do, and I will be bracing the corners, I haven't decided between plate gussets, or small diameter tubing.... :dunno:
I figure this way it gives something up top to slide on, but doesn't add the weight that a full exo would, and keeps the overall look of the rig the same.

And for some reason the third pic from the bottom reminds me of the hat John Candy wore in Canadian Bacon...

bobbywalter

02-10-2009, 11:39 PM

how could one not love that thing?

Loanranger

02-12-2009, 08:31 PM

I added a couple gussets to the bar, I couldn't decide between plate and tube, so I used plate, tube, and round bar. :thefinger:

The tube one in the rear.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0309.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0310.jpg

Plate with 3/8ths round stock on the front.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0311.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0312.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0317.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0318.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0319.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0320.jpg

Now I just gotta make the other side look the same. :icon_twisted:
I'm also going to put some grabhandles on the inside, to keep people from grabbing for tube in a flop.

More to come.........

pickuptrucker

02-12-2009, 10:30 PM

your truck is sick! that would be like mine flexing 55"! which right now i think it will do six maybe?

93Ranger4x4

02-15-2009, 07:09 PM

Loanranger

02-15-2009, 09:20 PM

That is an awesome rig you've got there, ever thought of using leafsprings off of an f-450 or f-550 superduty? i know a friend ofmine put both rear stacks off of a f-550 superduty on his f-250 and it made the rear of his truck raise way the hell up, just a thought that maybe an 450 or 550 spring would work better for the rear mono leaf.

I don't need more height, and running the mono leaf was not a good Idea, unless you carry a trail spare. Having to limp out with ratchet straps was less fun than just throwing the broken secondary in the back and wheeling the rest of the day. :icon_thumby:

I'd actually like to find another set of chevy springs like I used on my dads ranger, for the military wrap. That is the only upgrade I would make to the system, other than rebuildable joints. I've always been happy with the way the rear works on this thing.

84projectFORD

02-16-2009, 04:34 PM

Who is this directed at? Are you talking the wheel spacers or tires and wheels?

sorry took me so long to get back to ya. i have both, 33x12.50x15 thorbirds on wheels with almost no back spacing and spacers for them also.

dogboy

02-16-2009, 05:12 PM

I'm not trying to put words in his mouth or anything, but he wouldn't need spacers for the Iroks. My cousin bought them a couple days after he posted the pics, so they are on his Scout now.

And Derek, those Iroks look sick on his Scout too, I'll get you a picture one of these days.

84projectFORD

02-16-2009, 06:42 PM

i jsut suggested that i do have some as he was talkin about puttin some at the bottom of page 12.

dogboy

02-16-2009, 08:21 PM

i jsut suggested that i do have some as he was talkin about puttin some at the bottom of page 12.

I know.

Loanranger

02-16-2009, 10:16 PM

Ah, ok. Well, like dogboy said, I sold them already anyways. Bigger tires on the LJ would open up a whole new can of worms, and the iroks were too small for my plans with the SJ anyway. Thanks for the offer though. (not so much on the thornbirds as the spacers. :thefinger:) It's kindof funny though, I came home the other day and found a set of 31x12.50 thornbirds out in my yard. :icon_confused: I'm thinking about putting them on the mazda for a few trips to Elbe... :icon_twisted:

Anyways, on to the progress, no pics, but I'll get some up soon. I know dogboy and a few others have seen my method of holding the doors shut. While it isn't bailing wire or duct tape, it's pretty ghetto, so I decided to do something about it while I had the welder out. I'll get some pics and an explanation up in a few.

dogboy

02-17-2009, 01:07 AM

That Mazda is just 2wd isn't it? If you take it up to Elbe, let me know, I'll come pull you out, haha.

Loanranger

02-26-2009, 10:03 AM

Yeah, the mazda is 2wd, I figured I'd weld up the rear, and slap these 35" Buckshots on there. :icon_twisted:

Progress has been slow, I've been working long hours at work, and wrapping up an engine swap for a buddy here at home. Then I ran out of gas for the mig, and Pacific was closed saturday, even though it said they were open till two. :icon_confused:

But anyways, I got the passenger side pretty much wrapped up, needs one more bar and it'll be done. The drivers side finally has it's roof slider now, but still lacks gussets and the b pillar and door striker. The more I add to this makes it more evident that I should have scrapped the original rear rollbar, and built from scratch. Building from measurements went out the door a long time ago, and I'm basically just trying to make everything line up the best I can, even if it means making things slightly assymetrical. :annoyed:

I'm hoping to get back out there tonight, to finish things up, I need to get back out on the trails bad.
Once I get the cagework done, I'm hoping to find some new front springs at the swapmeet, and this thing will be done for awhile. Then I can concentrate on getting the SJ in and pulling the body, and start in on cleaning up the frame and adding what I need. :yahoo:

dogboy

02-26-2009, 11:13 PM

I can understand why you threw out measurements... I don't know if you used that bender that was in your garage/ like the one I have, but that thing isn't the easiest to measure bends with. I just counted how many times I pumped the handle and called it good, haha.

What kind of leaves are you going to look for at the swap meet? Just what ever you find that measures up, or something specific?

Loanranger

02-27-2009, 12:17 AM

It's not so much the bender, as it is building off that existing rear hoop that was there. I should have just yanked it out, and started from scratch. I'm getting pretty decent with the bender, you just have to take your time, and learn how much it springs back. I almost always underbend, then work it to the final fit.

I'm going to be looking AT yj springs, I don't know if the centering pin is in the right location for a straight bolt in swap. I've asked two people who have yj's, and neither has come back with an answer yet. :annoyed: Basically it's whatever looks and measures out to work.

I finally got the rest of the cagework done, I'm not happy with how it turned out, but it's kindof growing on me, and I've got Ideas of adding a little in the rear in the future, so maybe I can make it all work. If not, THEN I'll rip it all out and start from scratch the way I should have in the first place. :icon_twisted:

I've got to feather the paint back on the old stuff, and give it a nice coat of shiney black, and it's ready to wheel. I'll get some pics up after paint.

maddhatter

02-27-2009, 06:41 PM

Nice build. :icon_cheers:

I have a few Zuks out back my self.

The one I built for me
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u54/maddhatter1/SnowyFlipper001.jpg

The 1984 SJ 410 I built for my wife.
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u54/maddhatter1/sj%20410/sj3.jpg

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u54/maddhatter1/sj%20410/rockyhillmaintrail.jpg

I'm wanting to put a 2.3 in my rig as soon as I find a 2wd Ranger cheap.
The lil Zuks are fun rig's.

dogboy

02-27-2009, 08:47 PM

maddhatter

02-27-2009, 09:21 PM

I honestly thought that Zuk on AG tires, was a side-by-side when I first looked at it!!

What is the difference between an SJ, and a Samurai? Is it just the lack of a the Samurai name? They looks almost identical from what I can tell.

Look at the SJ 410 grill. Jeep sued Suzuki over that grill and the SJ being to much like CJ and won.
Hence, The Samurai was born. The axles, motor, tranny , t-case are all different then a Sami as well as almost every other part on them but they look the same. The 410 is (4wd with a 1.0 motor) The SJ413 is a (4wd with a 1.3 motor). I put a Sami 1.3 motor and tranny in our SJ.

The SJ's did have 4.10 axle gears (All Sami's had 3.73) and a 11% lower T-case then a sami in 4WL.

Loanranger

02-27-2009, 10:42 PM

Nice rigs. :icon_thumby: Yeah, as a buddy calls them "pocket wheelers". I had so much fun with the first one, I had to start another. :icon_twisted:

I got the cage painted tonight, windshield bolted back up, and as soon as the paint is fully dry I'll hang the top back on, and I'll be ready for a wheeling trip. :yahoo: I went to take pictures, and the camera was dead. :annoyed: So when it charges up, I'll run out and get a few of the complete cage.

Loanranger

02-28-2009, 12:09 AM

Well, here's finished pics.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0448.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0449.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0450.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0452.jpg

doorgunner

02-28-2009, 12:02 PM

I'm payin attention Loanranger--the way my wife likes to roll vehicles, I'm gonna put a roll cage in my '36 Ranger:icon_rofl: (bought the tubing & getting up nerve)

Loanranger

03-02-2009, 11:43 PM

Got a little time for a project I've been meaning to do for awhile now. Recently I picked up some 35x14x15 Gumbo Monster mudders for free. They are probably 75% tread still, but have some cracking and a few of the beads are nicked up. I figure worst case is I get some beadlocks for them. But on to the project part of it. :icon_twisted: In order to fit these massively wide meats on the little LJ, I'd need some 2" backspaced wheels.

Well, if anybody remembers back (or has the ability to read back a few pages) I had some 15x10 chrome mods with 4" backspacing on the LJ when I first started wheeling it. Well these would hold the tires well, but the backspacing was way to deep, so out came the grinder and the welder. :icon_welder:

On the back side of the centers, is 5 welds holding the center to the wheel, I just ground this down, and knocked the centers out, turned them around to make them reverse centers, which is the only way to get a 2" backspaced wheel. They came out actually about 1 3/4 BS to the bead. :icon_thumby:

I stuck the wheel on the Lj, with that corner jacked up, unlocked the hub so it would spin freely, and knocked it around till it spun true to the eye. These will be used for snow wheeling, to get a wider foot print, and hopefully stay on top of the nastiest of snow. Obviously I wouldn't try this on a street driven rig, and I know with the huge tires on tiny backspacing, my wheelbearings are going to hate me. For the most part I will still wheel the LTBs for trails, rocks, that kind of stuff, but when the snow flys, or I get up to Evans next, I'll throw these on for a little more float.

As always, I'll get pics up shortly, my computer went on the fritz so I got a new one..

84projectFORD

03-04-2009, 01:20 PM

Loanranger

03-04-2009, 08:29 PM

I got teh YJ springs on my sami. i can take some pics of where the mount on the front and back if you like? i believe the rear spring center pin is in the same position as the sami but i know on the front you have to extend the front frame 6" to mount the front spring hanger and center the tire under the sami. let me know

Are the pins centered on the spring? Basically I need 24.5" from eye to center pin. The centering pins on the datsun springs are 24.5" on the long side and 22.5 on the short side. If the pins are at 24" or so I can use them, if they're centered, then it would move my axle forward too much for the steering box.

Here's some pics of the wheels and tires.

Two of the wheels, one before, and one after
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0512.jpg
Fronts. Whoa look at that deepdish..haha
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0513.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0514.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0515.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0516.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0520.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0524.jpg

I also had to weld up the valve stem hole, and drill a new one on the new outside of the rim. I started grinding the second one and lost interest for the night. I'll post up some pics when I get the 4 wheels done and tires mounted. Maybe do a little flexing on the mazda.

pickuptrucker

03-05-2009, 05:53 PM

go play with it now! and show us :D

Loanranger

03-19-2009, 02:16 AM

go play with it now! and show us :D

Ok.:icon_twisted:

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0664.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0669.jpg

The new cagework works. :D

After this past weekend, I have a few things to fix before the next run. The first thing I'm working on, because the second is the easier of the two, is the steering. The only reason I went with a traditional tierod and z-link setup with the LJ was cost. I made the z-link for about $40, and it's still working great. :icon_thumby: The tierod, however, isn't. Even though I retubed it with 1.25" .250" wall DOM, I still managed to bend it. Twice. :annoyed:
SO, I decided rather than use off the shelf arms from SKY or TT, or the mercedes arms, I'd just make my own. I have a bunch of 3/4" x 2" stock, so I decided to put it to use.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0680.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0684.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0686.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0687.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0689.jpg

This is the passenger side arm, the drivers will look just like it. For ends, I'm going to use 5/8x3/4 heims. The tierod will go under the new arms, with a spacer under it, to take up the space between the heim and old arm. The draglink will go to the top of the passenger side arm, with a single through bolt going through both heims, both arms (old and new), and the spacer. This will put the tierod in double shear, and the draglink in single shear, unless I decide to add a tab to the arm....
I was hoping for one piece arms, but without a mill, I'm pretty much sol..
So I did everything I could to make sure I got good penetration for the weld. I chamfered the edges, preheated both pieces red hot then welded immediately double pass, then went back with the torch and let it cool nice and slow. I thought about an oil quench, but decided against it, cause I'd have to flip the fans on and lose my heat. These things are way beefier than both the stock arms, and mercedes arms, so I think it'll hold up just fine under the zuk. Not sure I'd try this on a heavier rig though, or with much bigger tires.

Loanranger

03-22-2009, 01:18 PM

It's getting closer. I got the other arm finished up yesterday, I'm going a cheaper route than heims for now, just to get it going again. I'm setting it up for use with stock tierod and draglink, but both will be modified. I wanted to set it up where the draglink is behind the tierod, but the tierod would hit the pitman arm on full stuff. So what I'll have to do is spin the TRE for the draglink around on the tierod, since with the tie rods ends on top of the arms, the whole tierod is essentially upside down/backwards. I'll also have to retube the draglink to lengthen it, since I'm running the IFS box outside the frame, vs. the stock samurai configuration inside the frame.

Here's a few pics.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0691.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0692.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0693.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0694.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0695.jpg

I am also extending/straightening my pitman arm in the process. This is to hopefully increase my turning, since the pitman arm I built originally is 1/2 inch shorter than a stock sami pitman arm, reducing the amount of throw, which reduces how far it will push the steering arms. I'm also straightening it a bit, which will get the draglink up further out of the way of the springs.

*Also, these arms will alter the ackerman angle, though I haven't calculated by how much. If you notice, the tierod ends are in towards the inside of the vehicle a little more than stock (i.e. shorter overall tie rod), which is neccesary to clear the tires. All the aftermarket arms I've seen do this as well, it's the only way around it while running 2.5 BS wheels. IF I were to run some wheel spacers however, my arms have the ability to have a correct ackerman angle, because they are reversible. If you take the arms off and swap sides, the tierod holes line up perfectly with the old arms TRE holes, BUT, the tierod ends rub the tire with the 2.5" BS rims. So like I said, if I swap arms and run 1/2" or more wheelspacers, the ackerman angle SHOULD be correct.

dogboy

03-22-2009, 05:57 PM

Maybe I'm just missing something, but I don't see how a shorter tie-rod would result in incorrect ackerman angle.

The knuckle is still being turned the same in relation to the other knuckle as it was before. Right? I don't know how to word that correctly, but I know the ackerman angle is how far the inner tire turns in relation to the outer tire in a turn.

Loanranger

03-22-2009, 06:38 PM

This http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ackermann_steering_geometry explains it pretty well. In the first diagram, you can see what I'm talking about. Note the steering is backwards of mine in that diagram, therefore, the TRE's on the stock arms are outward of the "perfect ackerman". The TREs used to be further out from the line between the kingpin and center of rear. By moving those points inward, they are actually getting closer to that so-called perfect ackerman, which is the opposite of what most shoot for when dealing with slow moving off-road steering. Basically it should perform better now in high speed cornering, but perhaps drag a tire a little more when turning at slow speeds off-road. Not that any of this is going to affect much in terms of how I will be using it, but I thought it was interesting to check into the changes I'm making, and how they will affect things, both by calculation, and later in real world testing. :icon_thumby:

I've run into a snag trying to get this done on the cheap. I'm not too excited about how I would need to flip the TRE around on the tie rod, so I'm looking into other options. I did however run to Mclendons and got the 4 bolts I needed to bolt the arms to the knuckles.

Loanranger

03-23-2009, 12:47 AM

Well, everything is done except the draglink, which all I have to do is cut a tube to length and slide the blanks in, weld them up, and I'm ready to test it out.
I got the arms bolted on, the tierod is a stock one, with 1" cut out of the adjuster sleeve, and 3/4" cut off the TRE. The passenger side got cut and flipped in between the TRE and the draglink rod end. I just v-notched it real good and welded it, we'll see how it holds up. This is still only to get me through till after my vegas trip in april. :D

The pitman arm got some special treatment. I remembered I had a sami pitman arm (yeah, I know I measured it the other day, but didn't even think about it.) so I cut the steering box end off of it, and after tacking it to the toyota pitman arm box end, I test cycled the suspension, and everything cleared, so I took the torch and got it red hot, and welded the piss out of it, ground it down smooth, so it doesn't have any ridges to form a crack.

The new pitman arm even has a bracket for the factory steering stabilizer. :icon_rofl: The pitman arm at least gives me a reference point for steering angle. It turned out just a (blonde) hair longer than a stock sami pitman arm, and the new steering arms are the same length as the old ones, so I should get a little sharper/quicker steering out of the deal. :icon_thumby:

I'll run the pitman arm till it breaks, then I have a length reference, and can just get a sky pitman arm. That's one of the only things I can't do here is splining. I don't have that much patience with a sawzall...:icon_rofl: Hopefully I'll get a chance to finish it up tomorrow after work, and I'll get pics posted up of the finished product.

***How many TPI to cut 30 splines on an 1.25" shaft?*****:icon_confused:

:thefinger:

doorgunner

03-23-2009, 06:22 AM

hmmmm......12* between splines.......hmmm......1.250 X's 3.1417......hmmmm
........divided by 30.........argh my brain hurts

Loanranger

03-24-2009, 10:25 PM

The highsteer is all done for now. I'd still like to go with heims at a later date, but it works for now.

My toyota/samurai hybrid pitman arm.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0697.jpg
In the picture, it looks as though the draglink would hit the tierod on comression, but it will barely squeek by with the wheels straight, the more I'm turned either way, the further it is away. I did this to have the longest possible pitman arm possible, to allow the most leverage/throw from the steering.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0696.jpg

When I bought the steering box and pitman arm, they were seperated. After playing around with centering it, I got it "close enough", which gave me 2 turns to the left, and 2.25 turns to the right. Well, when I had the pitman arm off, I spent a little more time with it, and got it right this time. 2 1/8th turns either way from center. :icon_thumby: I took it out for a little test drive, and it works great.

When I got back in the garage however, I shut it off, and heard what sounded like boiling... after a quick walkaround, I discovered it was coming from the muffler, which is full of oil. :annoyed:

So now I'm wondering if the oily substance on the rear wheel wasn't just engine oil. I'm still going to pull the axle and check the seal, but I have a feeling it was all just blowback from the exhaust. Great. I guess I'll start by cutting the muffler off, let it run for a while to get the stuff in the pipe to burn off, and see where I'm at.

np205

03-24-2009, 11:21 PM

that don't sound cool

pickuptrucker

03-25-2009, 12:33 AM

very nice indeed great fab work as always! and looks like you are having lots of fun with it!

Loanranger

03-25-2009, 07:57 PM

Oh jeez, I think we have a problem here. :annoyed:

Well, the muffler is full of oil. The oil is running out the back seam of the muffler, dripping onto the lower link, running down it, and soaking the entire passenger side of the axle. It's like it's wicking it out of the motor there's so much. :annoyed: Not sure how much longer this engines going to last. I'm actually surprised the thing still runs concidering the abuse I've put it through. :D

I'm hoping that it just poured the oil into the head and ran out the open exhaust valve when it wasn't running. If it shit an oil ring, this motor is done for now. I don't have the money to throw into a rebuild as of now, but I do happen to have an injected 2.3 sitting here, that I think would compliment the rig perfectly. :D This is one of the reasons I chose to use the ramcharger running gear in the sj410.

Loanranger

05-02-2009, 12:02 AM

Alright, time for a little update.

I got the muffler cut off, and it didn't smoke, so I rerouted the exhaust to the inside of the spring hanger, and threw a cherry bomb on there with a turn out right under the rear body mount. I don't think I have any pics, but it's nothing exciting.

This past weekend, I took the LJ up to Elbe hills for a cleanup/work party, and took it over a small jump a couple times, and ended up bending the front housing, and bending a rear shackle. So I decided it was time for some beef.

I'm replacing the front and rear housings, and trussing them both to prevent them from bending again, the rear was already taco'd when I got it, and it seems to have gotten worse over time.

So here's the start of the front.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0914.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0915.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0916.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0917.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0918.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0919.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0920.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0923.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0924.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0925.jpg

7 Degrees positive caster
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0926.jpg

That's it for now, I ran out of wire, so I'll have to grab some in the morning and get back to it. :icon_welder: I'm going to truss it all the way out to the ends of the tube.

fastford04

05-02-2009, 04:32 PM

Git R Done!!

Loanranger

05-02-2009, 07:07 PM

more....

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0930.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0931.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0932.jpg

Knuckle ball gussets
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0933.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0934.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0935.jpg

Armor and perches capped
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0936.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0937.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0938.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0940.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0941.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0942.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0943.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0944.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0946.jpg

Now for the rear....

Loanranger

05-03-2009, 11:17 PM

Ok, so I lied. I will be building a new housing for the rear, but for the sake of getting back out on the trail, I decided to "try" something. But before we get to that, I was looking at something as I was putting the front axle back in the rig, whadaya think? :icon_twisted:

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0948.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0949.jpg

With the arms flipped around on the knuckles, it puts the tierod about 3/4" above the springs in the BACK. :icon_thumby: This means, theoretically, that I could move the front axle forward something like 12 inches, with no modification to the steering whatsoever, aside from turning the arms around.
This just means in the future, when I go 3-link and coils, I have an easy option for steering, and can move the front axle forward more for stability.

But anyways, on to the rest.
After finishing up the front, setting the wheels straight, and setting the toe to 1/16" in, I decided to center the steering wheel, since in essence, the steering is just how I want it now.
Well this turned into a dillema, since the ranger wheel wasn't splined, but instead has just the two flat spots in it. My thoughts went to a deeper dished steering wheel that Nate had given me, but the center was splined rather than like the ford wheel.

Looking at the center hubs, the ford one just had two rods, under all the rubber, while the new wheel has the 3 spoke flat design. The problem with cutting and welding the centers was, the fords was 1 7/8" OD, and the other was 2 1/16th, a bit wide for me to feel safe welding up.

So I ended up using an 1/8" flat washer, welded both to the ford hub, and the inside of the new wheel. I clamped it all together to a piece of 3/4" flat stock to ensure everything was flat as could be, and welded the front and back.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0953.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0954.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0955.jpg

This way I was able to clock the hub in the wheel before welding, so it would be centered. :icon_thumby:

So now on to the fun part.

I decided to take a whack at straightening the rear housing, and it worked impressively well. The real test will be to see how long till it bends again.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0957.jpg

The piece of steel is a stinger from a tow truck, 1/2" wall, and weighs in at between 150-200#. :shok:

I just used two treesavers, at the outermost part of the housing, and the bottle jack under the pumpkin, with a piece of 1/4" to spread the pressure.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0958.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0959.jpg

Passenger side afterwards
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0963.jpg
Drivers side
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0965.jpg

Lining it up with the tailgate...
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0969.jpg

I also flipped the fuel cell around. It dawned on me last weekend, that when I got down to a few gallons, it would sputter on hillclimbs. So I decided to flip the tank around to make the pickup in the rear, rather than the front, which still isn't ideal, but it'll work till I get a better fuel cell in there.
The jack fits better in there now too, it isn't resting on the fuel cell anymore.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0970.jpg
I plan on making a removeable shelf just above the fuel line, so I can use that bit of space for storage too.

And there it is. For now. I still have to fix the rear shackle, but that shouldn't take long. And then I'll be ready to go play some more. :icon_hornsup:
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0972.jpg

Loanranger

06-13-2009, 05:41 PM

I can't believe it. It came out! :yahoo: I imagined having to at least lift the body up....

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/1244931343.jpg :stirthepot:

Loanranger

06-13-2009, 10:23 PM

Ok, so to fill you guys in on what's going on, I decided to finally swap in the injected motor and 5 speed. :icon_hornsup: Somehow I mismeasured, and the 5 speed is the same length as the TK4. :icon_confused: I mean exactly the same, 33.5 inches between the bellhousing and the center of the ujoint on the slipyoke, with both slipyokes extended the same. *about a 1/2". So basically, I have the old motor/trans pulled, along with all the old wiring and stuff. I also ran a check for codes, and it came back with none. :yahoo: 127,000 miles on it, and aside from a small valvecover leak, it looks to have been very well maintained. Shiney sparkplugs and a newer looking wix filter. I'm excited to get this thing in there.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1261.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1262.jpg
This was why I finally pulled it apart. The clutch was slipping pretty bad after the last trip through the busy.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1263.jpg

Notice the mud packed between the fingers and cover.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1264.jpg

New clutch and slave in the mazda combo. :icon_thumby:
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1265.jpg

I'm guessing a m50d, though I don't know what variant. The shiftrail plugs look good, no leakage.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1266.jpg

Poor little bastard.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1267.jpg

And that's it for tonight. I need to run a return line for the fuel, swap the drivers side motor mount, and maybe make a passenger side. The mounts are at a v type angle to each other, rather than flat like the ranger ones. The drivers side looks like I can bolt up the old one, the passenger side, the alternator bracket is in the way. This should be a fairly simple fix though, and it's on to wiring.

The plan for tonight is to kick back with the chiltons and see what kindof trouble I can get myself into. :D

Loanranger

06-17-2009, 12:35 AM

I've been playing with wiring the last couple nights, and have it pretty much stripped down. I have a couple odds and ends to finish up tomorrow night, and it'll get all wrapped up again.

This is what I'm down to basically, plus the untouched engine harness. This is what used to be the underhood harness, and underdash harness, basically just for the ignition and obd2 stuff. I would also like to get it narrowed down to just one fuse box, but we'll see.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1269.jpg

And this is all the "extra" stuff. :D
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1270.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1271.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1272.jpg

I still need to clearance for the EGR tube...
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1274.jpg

Widen up the trans tunnel a little bit, and make a new trans crossmember.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1273.jpg

That's it for tonight.

militarydave

06-17-2009, 01:20 PM

after spending the last 53 minutes reading every page/post of this thread... all I have to say is:

this is F*$%#&NG sweet!

good job man!

-dave

doorgunner

06-17-2009, 07:17 PM

..I've been playing with wiring.....This is what I'm down to basically, plus the untouched engine harness.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1269.jpg

And this is all the "extra" stuff. :D
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1270.jpg

Now I'm sur I'm on the right track with my '36 Ranger conversion........that's exactly what my wiring harness looks like....:icon_rofl:

Loanranger

06-18-2009, 12:44 AM

Ok, I worked a little on it tonight, but no pics.

First, I got the rest of the "spare" wiring pulled out. At this point, it started to rain, so into the shop I went with the harness, and started in on making the motor and trans fit. After a good couple hours with the plasma cutter and porta power, I got it in about an inch forward of where it should be. At this point, I've only run into two problems, other than all the unforeseen hacking that I've been having to do on the firewall/trans tunnel. The first is that the accesories are a in a little different placement, so the stretch of belt between the crankpulley and p/s pump intersects with the steering shaft, which before it had a 1/4" of clearance. The second is the water pump inlet from the radiator sits right against the frame. Both of these seem to be pretty easy fixes, though I haven't come up with a definate plan of what I'm going to do yet.

A couple other minor issues I've run into, some of the components on the harness aren't in the same place in the LJ as they were in the mazda, like the battery and starter relay, so I'm going to have to reroute a few things before giving the harness a final wrap and strapping it in place. The other thing is the gas pedal may pivot off the back of the intake.... :D

Loanranger

06-18-2009, 10:41 PM

Ummm. I'm not sure if this really constitutes as progress or not....:icon_twisted:

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1277.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1278.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1279.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1280.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1281.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1282.jpg

Where the PCM will go.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1283.jpg

Right behind the glove box
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1284.jpg

And I'll have to make a little dish in the firewall for the intake.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1285.jpg

It's sitting on the motor mounts now, so I just have to build a new trans mount now, and it's mounted up. I got the harness finished tonight. I got the alternator circuit moved over to the passenger side, and the two evap valves over to the drivers side. I need to wire it into the ignition plug for the '83 column/ignition, plug it all in, and hope I didn't miss anything. :D Then I just need to route/plumb fuel lines and I can fire it up. :icon_thumby:

Loanranger

06-20-2009, 12:49 AM

Bolts are in the motor mounts, and I've got one more fishplate to make for the crossmember. It actually worked out nice, because with the crossmember further back, it's closer to the front output on the transfercase. This means the crossmember passes over the slipjoint, which is smaller diameter than the 2" DOM tube for the driveline. This just means a shorter hoop, and more thickness, without cutting into the floor. More.

I'll get some pics of the whole shindig tomorrow when I finish it up. Then it's on to plumbing and hopefully a little WAGGUMM! (Yell that at the top of your lungs with a little hate and enthusiasm, and that's what it'll sound like.) :D

Loanranger

06-20-2009, 08:15 PM

It's ALIVE! :yahoo:

I got the crossmember finished up this morning, and welded the bottom up, this was enough to get it started, so I wired it up and gave it some fuel.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1286.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1287.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1288.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1290.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1291.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1292.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1293.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1295.jpg

It's in.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1298.jpg

And whenever photobucket finishes loading it, I'll post up the video of the first start in the LJ. :icon_thumby:

Loanranger

06-20-2009, 08:22 PM

And for the record, the only wiring I had off, was the alternator and fuseblock wiring I had hooked to the wrong side of the starter relay. :icon_rofl: I noticed right away, cause I didn't have power at the ignition.

Here's the video. :D

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/th_100_1299.jpg (http://s157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/?action=view&current=100_1299.flv)

EDIT* I need a bigger fuel pump is the reason it won't idle. I had the return line just hanging there and nothing came out, so it's definately not getting enough fuel.

Loanranger

06-21-2009, 12:46 AM

I got the engine and trans pulled again and welded the rest of the crossmember. I got the engine and trans back in, and bolted up, got the radiator hoses hooked up, and the floor around the tunnel cut back a little more, just to even it up, and make the seam straight. I had the idea to use some 16 guage I have here in a big sheet, but I looked at the 2'x4' sheets of 1/8 inch, and I'm toying with the idea of using it. Then I wouldn't need to reinforce around the master cylinder and steering shaft like I would with 16 guage. Well, we'll see.

Loanranger

06-21-2009, 10:57 PM

Got the firewall all built and welded in.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1301.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1302.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1303.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1304.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1305.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1306.jpg

I also got the exhaust routed under the body. I decided to go this route since I was into the floor anyways.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1307.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1308.jpg

Firewall plug welded in.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1311.jpg

PCM slid into place in the original jacket.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1312.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1316.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1317.jpg

Tomorrow nights plan is clutch system and brake master and booster. I also need to get the steering collumn back in, and then I can wire everything up. I have a couple circuits to add, fuelpump, headlights and taillights, fan, cb, and tach. It's getting close now. :D

Loanranger

06-22-2009, 10:16 PM

I got the brakes and clutch setup tonight. I need to swap the two lines from the master out of the mazda, because the fittings have a longer thread section than the older ranger ones. It looks like I can swap the two from the mazda though, so I should be good there. The clutch is all hooked up, I even got the grommet in the firewall for it. :D

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1318.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1319.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1320.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1322.jpg

I ran into a little problem with the throttle cable though. :annoyed:
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1323.jpg

I'm going to have to make a custom bracket, and reroute it as low as possible, but I should be able to make it work. I still have the gas pedal to do anyways, which will coincide with the building of the trans tunnel, since the two will be so close.

It's getting so close now I can taste it. Wait....no that's brake fluid. :icon_twisted:

Loanranger

06-23-2009, 10:30 PM

Ok so tonight wasn't as productive. :annoyed:

1. The steering shaft u joint at the box intersects with the serpentine belt on the engine.
2. Upon installing the mazda brakelines from the master to the distribution block, I found that the rear brake line has a smaller fitting on the block side, and I kinked the front line rerouting it into place. This one is semi-simple, just get some new lines at the parts store, find adapter fittings if necessary.
3. I can't mount the gas pedal till I figure out where the steering column is going to go. With out the gas pedal in place, I can't start building the trans tunnel. :annoyed:
4. Needing a fuel pump that run around $100 bucks, with more important things to spend the $100 on.

Edit*
1. Going to remount the box on the frame, rocked down a hair in the front, shouldn't cause any issues with the spring.
2. just gotta go to the parts house some time.
3. should be able to work all this out tomorrow.
4. Thinking of making a new fuel cell, utilizing the pump from the mazda.

I did however get the throttle cable mount made tonight, I still need to make a tiny adjustment, and paint it black.

Loanranger

06-24-2009, 07:48 PM

Got the brakes done. :yahoo: I ended up getting 2 sections of 3/16ths brakeline, and two more edleman fittings, plus a short adaper piece for the one I went to replace. Oh and a coupler. :D Basically, back when I originally plumbed the brakes, the master, distribution block, and rear brakehose were standard, the front brake hoses and rear wheel cylinders were metric. So I basically ran a standard system, with adapters at the front brakehoses, and at the wheel cylinders in the back. Well, now with the mazda brake master (which is metric), I had to adapt from metric back to standard, to avoid replacing all my lines with metric lines. Oh well. It's done now, just need to bleed the system and we're good there.
So on to steering for tonight. :icon_thumby:

pickuptrucker

06-25-2009, 09:34 PM

this build is awsome! looking good with the new motor. it sounds knarley what exhaust is on it in the vid?

Loanranger

06-25-2009, 10:14 PM

this build is awsome! looking good with the new motor. it sounds knarley what exhaust is on it in the vid?

Thanks. :icon_thumby: It's running open header in the vid, I have it dumping under the rig now as you can see in the pics, but I still need to throw a muffler on it.

I played around a little on it last night, got the brakes bled, and the steering column mounted in the firewall. I still need to finish rocking the steering box down, and get the column mounted to the dash, as well as tie the top of the pedal bracket to the dash too. I had to take tonight off, just got home from an I-car class.

doorgunner

06-26-2009, 09:24 AM

:icon_surprised:

:icon_hornsup:

(I better go work on my little toy truk now :icon_bounceblue:)

Loanranger

06-28-2009, 02:54 AM

:icon_surprised:

:icon_hornsup:

(I better go work on my little toy truk now :icon_bounceblue:)

Your little toy truck is shinier than mine. :icon_twisted:

So I got the steering done finally. I had to swap pressure lines over too, cause the fittings weren't quite the same, and I could see a little seapage going on when I was filling it. I also added a dayco trans cooler to the P/S return, so it should keep things nice and cool. :icon_thumby:

I got the underdash stuff finished up too, I had to mount the pedal bracket to the dash, as well as the steering collumn. So this is what I came up with.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1338.jpg
The original plan was to have sleeves this long, and a through bolt, but I couldn't find any long enough, so I improvised. I welded a nut to either end of the sleeve, and it just has a bolt at either end now. :D
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1339.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1343.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1347.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1348.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1349.jpg
Clearance now. I'm way happier about this than an 8th inch.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1346.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1345.jpg
Started figuring out how many different panels I'm gonna need. :D
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1351.jpg

Still need to find a place for this too. I'm thinking right under the pcm, under the dash.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1352.jpg

So tomorrow it's trans tunnel time. Hopefully I can get the gas pedal mounted up too....

Loanranger

06-29-2009, 11:51 PM

I made some headway on the trans tunnel yesterday and today, it's going alot slower than I'd like it to, but I also want to make the work halfway presentable too, so I'm taking my time. Basically, the drivers side is done, except for the ONE piece that I need in there to mount the gas pedal.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1353.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1354.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1355.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1356.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1360.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1361.jpg
This is for access to the reverse sensor...
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1366.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1367.jpg
And this one is for the clutch bleeder.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1368.jpg
Bending the first piece for the passenger side.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1371.jpg
Which turned out to not quite fit because of how the floor sits. :annoyed:
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1372.jpg

I can invision the passenger floor looking like a cluster f$#@, but I'll do my best to make it look good.

I also got the welds around the perimeter of the firewall ground down and polished, I'm still toying with the idea of running the intake into the firewall, I'm not sure if I even have room to run the conventional airbox... everythings definately coming along though, I can see possibly wrapping up loose ends this weekend, I have friday off for the 4th. :icon_confused::yahoo:

Pat is also coming back on the 5th, and I still need to finish putting his rig back together so hopefully we'll have a trip planned for the 11th or so... not to get the carriage before the horse.. :icon_twisted:

Loanranger

07-01-2009, 12:48 AM

If only cardboard and masking tape were structural..... :icon_twisted:

I got some more done tonight, I'm waiting for another piece of 18 guage large enough for the passenger side, so till tomorrow it sits in cardboard. I did get the piece made so I can finally mount the gas pedal, and the starter piece for the passenger floor. I'm hoping to get the rest of the floor made in two pieces, and the whole passenger side of the trans tunnel made from one piece, then it's just the top and it's done. :yahoo:

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1373.jpg

The floor starter
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1374.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1376.jpg
The last bellhousing cover piece.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1379.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1380.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1381.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1382.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1383.jpg

And that's it for tonight.

Loanranger

07-01-2009, 09:54 PM

Getting real close now. My supplier brought some more 18 guage today, so I was able to make the passenger side piece.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1391.jpg
"Close enough for the chicks I go with" :D
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1393.jpg

All welded in.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1395.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_1396.jpg

On a side note:
Since there are no gaps involved, I'm welding it in as I go, basically just to make the clamping easier. I don't want a bunch of screw holes to weld up. If this were say, a rear body panel, where the quarter to decklid gap was a concern, I would clamp it all up and then weld. :icon_thumby:

Aside from the top cover around the shifters, I think 3 more pieces will do the trick. After i get the one on the upper part of the tunnel made, and the floor piece that attaches to the firewall made, I'm going to take a break on the welding and grinding and prep the outside of the firewall for paint. Which reminds me AGAIN, I need to make the little shelf that the right apron attaches to on the outside of the firewall. But after I get it painted, I can hang all the wiring back up, find the routing of it, and start wrapping it back up. That and hang the front clip back on it, (which obviously needs to be done before the wiring) so I can hang the P/S cooler, and run the winch cables back through.

So what's left:
-Sheetmetal work (Bracket dude, bracket) :icon_rofl:
-Prime, seamseal, and paint
-Hang front clip
-Mount P/S cooler
-Rewire winch
-Gas pedal
-air cleaner
-rewrap and install wiring harness
-rewire ignition
-Buy fuel pump and wire it
-wire in tach
-wire in headlights and taillights
-run a return line to the fuel cell
-reinstall seats
-shifter boots
-bleed brakes and clutch
-Wheel the piss out of it. :D

compleckz

07-01-2009, 10:00 PM

awesome work man

mornin151

07-02-2009, 10:07 PM

nice build up... i have a few questions though... new to this stuff... on the rear end you hiems on a bar with gas shocks and on the front you used leafs with a tab welded on it with a bolt that turned... why did you use a hiem or something else there? i would think that would wear out rather fast and be a hard pivot....

Loanranger

07-02-2009, 11:35 PM

:icon_confused: From reading your post, I assume you are talking about the third pivot in the rear shackles?

For some reason I can't find the picture that's posted here of the old one on photobucket, but here is one of the new ones, before welding it up, it also has two half circle gussets to support the two tabs on the bottom of the square tube.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t64/Dcdatsuns/100_0973.jpg
But basically, as you can see, the bottom most piece is actually the stock front leaf eyes, with a couple inches of spring sticking out. The eyelet gets bolted to the housing via two tabs. Then at the middle pivot, it sandwiches plate/spring eye/plate. These are welded to the box tube above, and gussetted like I said. Yes, the third pivot is a high friction joint, but it was free, unlike another "heim".

I ran it like that for the last two years, and finally bent the two tabs that stick down from the box tube, and also caved the bottom wall of the box tube. When I pulled it apart, the threads had barely worn off the bolt. I replaced the bolts when I replaced the shackles, but I'm still running that design. When I build a new rear housing it might get changed, but it works, and works well for this rig. :icon_thumby: