44s under a ranger? how?

[ignerntkneece]

I'm bout to start biulding my 94 ranger and I want to put 44 inch tires or so under it? how much lift and how would i do that? maybe a f-250 lift... i'm not sure help me out? i know i'm gonna put a dana 44 under the front...

[metalmacguyver]

I would start by buying a D60 at the bare minimum but you would be better off with 2.5ton Rocks under there.

[KELLY88]

I would start by buying a D60 at the bare minimum but you would be better off with 2.5ton Rocks under there.

+1 on the Rockwells.

Plus to clear those tires you can have a shop build you a custom suspension. It definitely won't be cheap but I'm not sure there's a kit on the market to jack a Ranger up that high.

[Hahnsb2]

Dana 44 with 44s? Funny joke... You're going to need a retarded amount of lift to clear 44s.

[Todd]

Go with a 60, sterling combo or 2.5 tons. And if you need to ask now to fit 44's on a Ranger then pay someone to build you a lift. And this WILL not be cheap.

[Dishtowel]

if you need to ask now to fit 44's on a Ranger then pay someone to build you a lift. And this WILL not be cheap.

+1

[Branger2B]

ive seen few rangers on 40's.. a few on this site too i believe. how much bigger is a 44''? i think it is doable.. if theres a will theres a way. Hopefuly u know what youre doing when you "build ur lift" (stay away from the 10'' roof truss body lift and the custom Re-Bar /chunk plate "Z" link.. and Remember youre going to need about 5 shocks per corner with tires that big..

heres one of the better examples ive seen of a "wheelinsuspension and 44's on a RBV
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee86/Branger2b/frontsuspension.jpg
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee86/Branger2b/front.jpg

[Toreadorranger]

ive seen few rangers on 40's.. a few on this site too i believe. how much bigger is a 44''? i think it is doable.. if theres a will theres a way. Hopefuly u know what youre doing when you "build ur lift" (stay away from the 10'' roof truss body lift and the custom Re-Bar /chunk plate "Z" link.. and Remember youre going to need about 5 shocks per corner with tires that big..

heres one of the better examples ive seen of a "wheelinsuspension and 44's on a RBV
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee86/Branger2b/frontsuspension.jpg
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee86/Branger2b/front.jpg

You dont need 5 shocks, you just need correctly valved and setup shocks. And with only a Dana 44 under there that truck is gonna Blow that thing up.

[mhughes165]

not truc actually, having owned and built a small block ranger on 44's, the weight of the ranger is a huge advantage to solid axle durability, especially in the mud, i left the eb 44 open in the front, with a set of moly axles and beefier u joints and NEVER had a problem with it, and the 9" can be beefed up aswell to take the abuse......

that ebing said, it would be MUCH cheaper to run 1 tons under it, id run personally a 14blt ff in the back with 4.88's and a detroit with a ford hp 60 up front, get the moly shafts for the 60 and leave it open(will really help save axles) also todo this properly your going to want atleast a 250hp small block, as a under powered motor can cause breakage aswell(getting traction when it should keep spinnin due to lack of power),

now for height wise your goin to want the complete lift kit for a 79 ford, atleast 8" (gives u about 12" on a ranger) and a 3" body lift. your going to have to setup a hydrosteer system if u actually want to turn the truck


you know......this could take forever.....


i think i should just post pictures of my 93 f-150.....you basically NEED everything i have done to it....hold on lemme get some pics

[RWARanger]

you guys and your huge lifts. first off is this truck gonna be driven on the street or just off road only? off road only cut the fenders. no body lift, d60 and d70 6.17 or 7.17 gears with the stock 4.0l, and for suspension coils with radius arms or a custom 4 link. my rig right now has 38's under it and is about the same height as a ranger with a 6" lift and a 3" body lift. cutting fenders and having fw axles helps alot to fit big tires. just my $.02 thats how i'd do it.

[mhughes165]

thats just room to flex the 44's, and im just the kind fo guy that likes the appearance of the rangers without the fenders all hacked out

[Branger2B]

You dont need 5 shocks, you just need correctly valved and setup shocks. And with only a Dana 44 under there that truck is gonna Blow that thing up.

it was a joke :taunt:..... i fugured the 10 inch roof truss body lift would have gave it away? some people have no sense of humor... :c-n:

[Toreadorranger]

it was a joke :taunt:..... i fugured the 10 inch roof truss body lift would have gave it away? some people have no sense of humor... :c-n:

I skimmed your post, looking back at it now I realize it was a joke.:D

[mhughes165]

oh....to the original poster....i REALLY hope u have no intentions of driving a ranger on full width axles and 44's on the street.....

[bobbywalter]

250 hp max with 44's on a d44:icon_surprised:


swap in 60's with 4 in fullsize springs and some fender trimming will fit 44's with room to play. 40 fill my wells perfect

[mhughes165]

250 hp max with 44's on a d44:icon_surprised:


swap in 60's with 4 in fullsize springs and some fender trimming will fit 44's with room to play. 40 fill my wells perfect

do your read whats typed before you respond, i said ATLEAST a 250hp small block, not max, and well duh, 4" fullsize springs(if ur going leaf sprung) gives u about 8" on a rangerthen of cousrs itll clear with fender trimming.

i said u need a 8" fullsize lift to clear 44's, which will give u about 12" of lift staying coil sprung up front(they do sell the radius arm wedges you can weld on the 60 housing) ive done it before, and then the body lift will just give u enoguh room not to cut the fenders, were on the same page if u actually read what i had said

[ignerntkneece]

I was wonderin if an f-150 lift would be more on a ranger than an f-150. i got some stock 79 springs then i got my stock ranger springs and measured them and there is a 3 or 4 inch difference thanks for the info mhughes165.

[metalmacguyver]

Yeah it would lift you more. It would also ride like a brick. Theres more to a lift than just springs.

[bobbywalter]

do your read whats typed before you respond, i said ATLEAST a 250hp small block, not max, and well duh, 4" fullsize springs(if ur going leaf sprung) gives u about 8" on a rangerthen of cousrs itll clear with fender trimming.

i said u need a 8" fullsize lift to clear 44's, which will give u about 12" of lift staying coil sprung up front(they do sell the radius arm wedges you can weld on the 60 housing) ive done it before, and then the body lift will just give u enoguh room not to cut the fenders, were on the same page if u actually read what i had said


yes i read it.


and my statement is 250 hp is the max.


you go over 250 hp and the 44 is a goner. unless your on ice.


4 in lift spring from a fullsize can give you no lift to whatever you want, no hard and fast rule i know of..



i said u need a 8" fullsize lift to clear 44's, which will give u about 12" of lift staying coil sprung up front


what makes an 8 in lift for a fullsize give 12 inches on an rbv?

do you read before you post?

its not semantics....but whats an 8 in fullsize lift to clear 44's?

simply limit up travel and trim the fenders, use whatever you want to spring it.


i sure as hell wasnt baggin on ya, i have 5 in lift 3 in b/l and trimmed fenders. with limiters i can squeeze 44's on like hawgs.

[mhughes165]

we can debate this all day, and i know a 8" f-150 suspension lift will net 12" on a ranger due to weight and spring rate....and the fact that its what i do for a living and have done about 12 seperate trucks with full width f-150 axles.

i think underpowered is worse then being overpowered when it comes to a wheeling rig, theres nothing worse then not being able to keep the wheels spining and snagging all at once and snapping a u-joint because of it

a box bronco 44 with a set of molys, some beefier u-joints will hold 44's of the ground hawg/gumbo mudder variety. i wheeled my old 86 small block ranger with eb rears on 44" gumbo's and i only ever broke a front moly axle once, which actually i got replaced under warranty, so its no biggie.

personally i just dont like the look of hacked out fenders, rather keep a full fender vehicle unless im building a strictly mud truck and i dont care about the vehicel......but then again im the guy that cleans everything on the truck after everytime out.

[mhughes165]

im not trying to come off as a dick, but im just sayin it can be done, do i reccomend it to the average person, no, for the average person you will be snapping axles and ujoints all the time with anything bigger the 38's on a d44

[JohnnyU]

i think underpowered is worse then being overpowered when it comes to a wheeling rig, theres nothing worse then not being able to keep the wheels spining and snagging all at once and snapping a u-joint because of it

In over three years of running a fully locked D35/8.8 in my less-than-90-hp Ranger, I'm going to go ahead and disagree with you. My professional experience will also lead me to disagree with you. Adequate power is the name of the game.

personally i just dont like the look of hacked out fenders, rather keep a full fender vehicle unless im building a strictly mud truck and i dont care about the vehicel......but then again im the guy that cleans everything on the truck after everytime out.

I personally think that whatever needs to be done to fit the desired tire size should be done. I hate the look of an overly tall rig just because someone didn't want to cut their fenders. Stability and functionality should take precedent over aesthetics. If you can get away with a lower lift height because you trimmed your fenders, you'll have a significantly lower COG, thus resulting in greater stability and functionality.

[mhughes165]

In over three years of running a fully locked D35/8.8 in my less-than-90-hp Ranger, I'm going to go ahead and disagree with you. My professional experience will also lead me to disagree with you. Adequate power is the name of the game.



I personally think that whatever needs to be done to fit the desired tire size should be done. I hate the look of an overly tall rig just because someone didn't want to cut their fenders. Stability and functionality should take precedent over aesthetics. If you can get away with a lower lift height because you trimmed your fenders, you'll have a significantly lower COG, thus resulting in greater stability and functionality.


im running 38.5 gumbos on my ranger now with 5.5" lift and a 3" body lift....without trimming the fenders AT ALL. my truck isnt overly tall and i still have room to flex, when i get my camera back i will be taking pictures.

i know about keeping you center of gravity low, but some of the mud i play in id rather be a little bit higher up so it doesnt get caught up under the bed.......

also another reason i run full fenders is chopped fenders unless they have full coverage bushwackers(which will crack with ANY wheeling) are strictly a no no and will get u a ticket for a hazardous vehicle.....i know its ridiculous, but its NJ what do ya want

[bobbywalter]

yes. i see.


i dont like mud, and if a guy needs a "mud truck" due to where he lives, its gonna have to be tall by its very nature. whats the point in driving through 1 foot mud holes with 44 in tires.

a trail truck is a different animal. a rock truck/buggy yet another.

if you were running a truck with 44 in tires on a d44 with over 250 hp....hell 200 hp that had u joints in it and only broke one axle chromo or not....you either only wheeled it a few times, or your definition of wheeling is 6 pages off from mine.


i have wheeled most of the types of stuff this country has to offer newyork on down the carolinas to california, and the fun stuff (for me) is sub 200 hp with chromo 60's a doubler and 40-44 in tires. at that level your still busting d60 shafts, knuckles ect on a regular basis, along with the rear d70 shafts....i watch this happen consistantly along with all the links being ripped off the frame ect, and got it on tape a few occasions.


the medium stuff that i do regularly(due to where i live)easily tolerates 400 hp with 60's, smart driving in single low.....but you better be real smart going past that if your in tractive/slip conditions in areas of pa and tucky/tennesee. a cromo d44 with 40's dont have a prayer for what i get into with a 300 hp rig. i unlocked my d35 and lived with brake bias to get by because a 44 in my particular case would be a pathetic waste of time. on the other hand a 44 with 60 shafts and outers and a 35 spline carrier would work great. till i got into rocks, then there is possible gear issues. but i think it would be fine. eventually i will live where my favorite places are so thats what i am biasing towards build wise.


i have worked on many trucks...dozens with tranny swaps to axles and engines. work on alot of drivability issuse over the last 20 years, mostly jeep big chevy and rbv with swap axle drive complaints...cause thats what i run with, and to say a fullsize 8 in lift gives an rbv 12, i am guesing thats using stock buckets with a stock truck.

i can easily and safely make that same 8 in fullsize lift give that same fullsize truck 12 inches of lift.


theres more then one way to cut and modify fenders ya know. i wouldnt even install bushwhackers on a vehicle without trying to talk em out of it...tube/pipe and sheet plastic with some shears though...some stand offs......yeah.

then again being in jersey your kind of handcuffed to creativty limiters as well.


clearing 44,s with uncut gen 1 fenders would net me a useless tumble weed for where i wheel. glad you can get away with it.

[bobbywalter]

my point is an 8 in fullsize giving 12 on another application is/has not been the case in my experience.


i can take 4 springs from four manufacturers, some with the same advertised rate(i have done this repeatedly, dozens of lift installs) and net different ride heights on the same vehicle with a variance of 1.5+ inches in some cases.

[mhughes165]

in jersey there aint much more then mud, aint really got any rocks, unless i want togo all the way to paragon.

and where theres mud around here, theres MUD, its not uncommon around here to be chewing in mud halfway up the truck, i just dont do rocks as much as some guys on here. if i were to build a rock rig then yes, it will be low to the ground as i can get, best ground clearance no fenders etc......

but like i said, i dont build trucks unless i can actually drive them, and in NJ im SOL on driving a rock style truck.

i said to him i donot suggest runnign a 44, simply that if u know what ur doing with it it can survive, just keep the wheel straight with no see sawing the wheel when ur hard on the gas. the small block ranger was the only truck i ran the front 44 in for a wheeler.

if i was in a state where i could legally lift a truckl and drive it more then 11"(thats for a 1 ton truck) total height including tires then id be happier then a pig in shit and id be able to build a real truck the way it needs to be

but like i said, living in NJ is like being a nutered dog

yes. i see.


i dont like mud, and if a guy needs a "mud truck" due to where he lives, its gonna have to be tall by its very nature. whats the point in driving through 1 foot mud holes with 44 in tires.

a trail truck is a different animal. a rock truck/buggy yet another.

if you were running a truck with 44 in tires on a d44 with over 250 hp....hell 200 hp that had u joints in it and only broke one axle chromo or not....you either only wheeled it a few times, or your definition of wheeling is 6 pages off from mine.


i have wheeled most of the types of stuff this country has to offer newyork on down the carolinas to california, and the fun stuff (for me) is sub 200 hp with chromo 60's a doubler and 40-44 in tires. at that level your still busting d60 shafts, knuckles ect on a regular basis, along with the rear d70 shafts....i watch this happen consistantly along with all the links being ripped off the frame ect, and got it on tape a few occasions.


the medium stuff that i do regularly(due to where i live)easily tolerates 400 hp with 60's, smart driving in single low.....but you better be real smart going past that if your in tractive/slip conditions in areas of pa and tucky/tennesee. a cromo d44 with 40's dont have a prayer for what i get into with a 300 hp rig. i unlocked my d35 and lived with brake bias to get by because a 44 in my particular case would be a pathetic waste of time. on the other hand a 44 with 60 shafts and outers and a 35 spline carrier would work great. till i got into rocks, then there is possible gear issues. but i think it would be fine. eventually i will live where my favorite places are so thats what i am biasing towards build wise.


i have worked on many trucks...dozens with tranny swaps to axles and engines. work on alot of drivability issuse over the last 20 years, mostly jeep big chevy and rbv with swap axle drive complaints...cause thats what i run with, and to say a fullsize 8 in lift gives an rbv 12, i am guesing thats using stock buckets with a stock truck.

i can easily and safely make that same 8 in fullsize lift give that same fullsize truck 12 inches of lift.


theres more then one way to cut and modify fenders ya know. i wouldnt even install bushwhackers on a vehicle without trying to talk em out of it...tube/pipe and sheet plastic with some shears though...some stand offs......yeah.

then again being in jersey your kind of handcuffed to creativty limiters as well.


clearing 44,s with uncut gen 1 fenders would net me a useless tumble weed for where i wheel. glad you can get away with it.

[bobbywalter]

yeah i would want to have at least 38 in tires to play with the pineys...


my truck would be banned in jersey. they dont like it in pa either...:D

[madmax401]

living in NJ is like being a nutered dog
i love jersey as much as getting my teeth pulled

[QuakerShaker4242]

I was wonderin if an f-150 lift would be more on a ranger than an f-150. i got some stock 79 springs then i got my stock ranger springs and measured them and there is a 3 or 4 inch difference thanks for the info mhughes165.

yea if you wanting 44s, a good way to get them without cutting fenders would be to run the 12" chevy leafs from superlift. front and rear 52"ers.

you would have to completely redo the front, but you should expect that part

[mhughes165]

yeah i would want to have at least 38 in tires to play with the pineys...


my truck would be banned in jersey. they dont like it in pa either...:D

well im smack dab in the heart of piney country LOL, the land where the only thing bigger and uglier then the trucks are the women

[cbluepit]

heres mine with 79 dana 60 and gm 14 bolt and 39.5 swampers got rid of the one tone cause i was breaking them 39's and 450 hp motor
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n184/cbluepit1/Picture16621-1.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n184/cbluepit1/mudhole5may07040.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n184/cbluepit1/DSC00277.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n184/cbluepit1/mudhole5may07034.jpg
here it is again with rockwells and 44 boggers 2.5 tons break as well . im fixing to either rebuild this with 5 tons and 57 in tractor tires or build a diffrent truck and give this away
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n184/cbluepit1/S4200323.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n184/cbluepit1/S4200327.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n184/cbluepit1/S4200324.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n184/cbluepit1/MudFest2008_07_p220116.jpg

[cbluepit]

opps i double posted

[bobbywalter]

you need to go to oveurson for parts with rockies and 450 hp....stock rocks dont hold up too well with 450+ real hp and someone not afraid to ride them ponies..


most people dont know that. i watched a guy blow out all of his shafts in the box on the rubicon one time with hardly even getting on it......it was pathetic.


but for big meat they have thier use if you maintain the power ratio.

[cbluepit]

im not willing to spend 3000 bucks just for axles and machine work . when i got my 5 tons for 1000 plus im gonna be pushing 700hp . i spoke with randy ouverson at mudfest in florida he a bunch of his buddies came down they have some sick ass trucks

[bobbywalter]

im not willing to spend 3000 bucks just for axles and machine work . when i got my 5 tons for 1000 plus im gonna be pushing 700hp . i spoke with randy ouverson at mudfest in florida he a bunch of his buddies came down they have some sick ass trucks


i can see that...3000 on 2.5 when you have 5t for 1000....well 3g at that point is turd polishing now isnt it:icon_rofl:

hell when weight is not an issue....go big or go home...(get towed home)


its amazing how reletive this shit can be isnt it:woot:



sometimes i wonder.

[cbluepit]

i have broke 3 axles in an hour right now there are ouversons lockers and axles in the rear but it not the 2 inch axles

[rngrdngr]

i know it would be bad ass to have a ranger on 44s but have u considered buying an old f350 (1970s) putting a lift on it and 44s.save lots of time and money.+ most of the old trucks have big engines anyway so ur gunu have power,and dana 70 and 60 axles. just my 2 cents. best of luck

[mhughes165]

im just tryin to talk some sense into the kid, just becuase its been done doesnt mean he cna pull it off, it takes alot of drive skill not to break even with 1 tons.....

[cbluepit]

i can see that...3000 on 2.5 when you have 5t for 1000....well 3g at that point is turd polishing now isnt it:icon_rofl:

hell when weight is not an issue....go big or go home...(get towed home)


its amazing how reletive this shit can be isnt it:woot:



sometimes i wonder.


the thing is when you put axle these axles in (ouversons) they aren't the weak link anymore the chunk is . randy is working on making new part for the chunk so it doest break anymore along with different gear ratios . they are in the test stages now . oops did i just say that im not sure if i was suposed to leak that out :scare::D:D

[cbluepit]

im just tryin to talk some sense into the kid, just becuase its been done doesnt mean he cna pull it off, it takes alot of drive skill not to break even with 1 tons.....


if this is his only truck then no dont even try till you get another . if it isnt then have at we all had to learn some where

[DieselSmoke]

my buddy let me try on some 42s a while ago and they fit fine, 44s wouldnt be much harder. i wouldnt have much room for upward flex tho with the 6" springs

[mhughes165]

if this is his only truck then no dont even try till you get another . if it isnt then have at we all had to learn some where

i mean, he could ATTEMPT it even if he got a good solid nodular 9" and a 44 w/ 60 outers etc, but then id only run a tire like a gumbo mudder or something of that nature that measures alot smaller then actual size.....

[Punisher]

OK, to the original poster......

Honostly, if you have to ask how hard it is, and what does it take to put 44"s on a ranger, and how to do a solid axle swap, and how much "lift" do I need? Then I am sorry but you need to forget this project and go a lot smaller and more economical.

I am not trying in anyway to burst your bubble, but I promise you it is way harder to get everything right then what you are thinking. It is not a bolt in application by no means.

First off, you might as well plan on your rig being tore down about a minimum of 6 months(unless you have all the time in the world to work on it). And if you are going to attempt to do this yourself then you need to have mad fab skills and all the right tools, chopsaw, good welder, torches, good heavy drills (or drill press) grinders, some sort of heavy frame lift, (or at least a safe way of suspending your frame in mid air for long periods of time. You need to know four link geometry and you need to know how and where to measure off of to get your frame/axle combo squared in the rig.


Again I am not trying to discurage you, I am trying to help you spend your time and money in the right direction, if you have all the tools and skill, I will be glad to help you along the way with questions and answers. But I have seen a lot of people on rigs that thought they knew what they were doing or thought they could do it and they end up scrapping the project after about a year, and all they really did was waste a ton of money, time and a perfectly good rig. A lot of the time people wished they had just left it alone and put some decent size tires on it and wheeled it. The only other way is to take it to a very well known custom shop, (not a trucks accessories or show truck lift store) and then get ready to pour out the bucks.


Now here is my opinion on what you need to do to build what you are wanting. In my opinion lose the radius arms first thing, depending on what you are wanting to do with the rig, either put coils up front with a good four link set up, and leaf the rear, or do coils all the way around with 4 link front and rear.


Don't even give a D44 a second thought, go at LEAST a D60 but if you are gonna offroad only, which with this set up, you are, then go rockwells, cheaper then a D60 and way stronger and actually just as if not easier to work on. Ditch the steering and go hydrolic, your arms and the trucks box, pump and frame will thank you.


Unless I missed it somewhere you really need to say what your intentions with this rig is, show, mud, rocks, trails, snake river record jump, hill climbs, running over Tarus' while messing with the radio, what?
ok those last two were a joke but seriously what are you gonna do with it?


Let me know that and I will give you my opinion on which way I think you should go, or maybe you don't want my opinion since I just opened a monsoon on your parade. :black_eye




Here is my B2 on rockwells and 44"s with four link front and rear, and 8" Xj coils in the front and 4" XJ coils in the rear. I also have a little bit of a moty in her too:D

BTW 6.72 gears in the rockwells still isnt enough gearing in my opinion with 44"s, I would like to had 7.10's
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p24/creepycrawlers4x4/DSC03294.jpg

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p24/creepycrawlers4x4/DSC03292.jpg

[metalmacguyver]

God damn that is a sick looking rig.

[cbluepit]

i do agree with punisher . but on a leaf spring application it can be done a hell of alot quicker mine was done in a week with alot of loooooong nights . i will say that leaf springs suck i will never own another leaf springed truck again . im just waiting to heal from surgery before i start my new 4 link truck with kings coilovers . i think i had around 5000 inthe one ton swap not really sure but i do know that there close to thirty thousand in the ranger all together it would have been alot cheaper if i had built it the way i wanted the first time . i have all the tools needed with a little brother to help . also had all parts there before i started .

[bobbywalter]

so what are we saying here.?.?.?
6 months to make 44's fit?
a 60 isnt or can not be a bolt in swap?


i agree, if you have to ask....you may just be over your head.


but if anyone is stating you can not just bolt 60's on and run 44's in a weekends time with simply some hand tools, a grinder a, drill and some cable with a few trips to a scrap yard and hardware store, i would have to say they are wrong. i would also say that the result would be shitty for running 44,s....but you would be off and runnin. and can upgrade as money allows from there.


first upgrade would probably be steering.

[Loanranger]

so what are we saying here.?.?.?
6 months to make 44's fit?
a 60 isnt or can not be a bolt in swap?


i agree, if you have to ask....you may just be over your head.


but if anyone is stating you can not just bolt 60's on and run 44's in a weekends time with simply some hand tools, a grinder a, drill and some cable with a few trips to a scrap yard and hardware store, i would have to say they are wrong. i would also say that the result would be shitty for running 44,s....but you would be off and runnin. and can upgrade as money allows from there.


first upgrade would probably be steering.

Some cable? Can you elaborate? And I would think you'd have to add a welder to that tool list to move the spring pads?

[bobbywalter]

yeah...cable. so you can weld with batteries or your alternator.



but thats for the rear axle. the front bolts on once you drill some holes.

[cbluepit]

the way i did mine was stripped it down to just a frame and body and fabbed up everything so i could use 12 chevy spring front and rear . there is no way to do this in a weekend

[bobbywalter]

your truck and its goals would definatly take some work.........i would most likely not be able to pull that off in a weekend at home with my tools..


my truck definatly. a weekend solid of time with access to material i would dial it in too. two things i have not had in 15 months.


basically ripped all the shit out one night after it broke and went to bed pissed, woke up still pissed and was testing it the next night...


8.8/d35 one day.....d60 the next with all bolt on front end with shit i had laying around save for the hi steer arm which was covered in dust from waiting so long.. it took a few weeks to get it where i liked it cause i only had an hour or two here and there to change things due to my work schedule which was generally 12-16 hrs a day 7 days a week at that time. i changed it several times with spring experimentation to soften it up. and am changing it again.

when i get it where i like it i will weld up some decent looking mounts and hopefully be done for ahwhile.


grinder and a drill and a battery/alternator setup on my honda powered air compressor along with my metrinch set.


i have @ 10 k on it with most of that freeway. and with some luck my next spring combo will work out perfect.


with the first setup i had double blocks out back to level it:icon_surprised:, 44's would have easily fit...but it was too high for detroit freeway rushhours with 33's. i had to drive thru rush some times then another 150+ miles to get to work when the locations were bad. that and i cant use a tall truck where i like wheelin anyway. with the axle where i wanted it in front i was gonna need a new shaft as well as it was just acceptable with a long yoke on it, and i would have had to cut the k member to wheel. i am still finishing some test work with ttb so i want that k member intact for a spell longer...likely june/july..


so really...in basis....44's are easily fit depending on goals. after i get my preferred ride charactoristics, a guy could copy the setup and be running in hours like any old liftkit and axle swap.


then again, theres guys you will see like mentioned before that take two weeks to do a ttb bracket lift.:icon_confused:


its all in what it is and needs and what you gottz.

[bobbywalter]

as far as stripping down to the frame....


in the rust belt we need to do that every 3-5 years if you want your shit to last and drive it year round massive amounts of miles. even doing that all my spreaders are on there last tour of duty...so i am looking at frames these days, if i can get one for the right price i will do a current production unit. fawkers are tough.

i have had mine since 92 so....thats a 6-8 hr deal to have frame rails exposed and on the ground. of course it takes alot longer to put it back together.


if it got sent out for sandblast and paint its fast and easy....but i dont have money like that


if i had money like that i would buy a jeep.:woot:

[mhughes165]

hes building a "show" truck, for a show truck i would just run 60's front and rear, order the radius arm wedges from bronco graveyard, run some extended radius arms intended for a f-150, you will really want since u dont want to cut fenders probably a 8" lift in which your going to have to get some 79 buckets and drop them 4" lower then stock location, take the truck off the frame, clean the entire fram, have it ceramic coated....

im not going to continue...if u dont know what its going to take to make a shwo truck on 44"s im not wasting my time giving you a idea

lol
and that was to the original poster. in no way to punisher LOL

but then again....i dont think he would EVER build himself a show only rig....and id kill myself if i thought about it...
OK, to the original poster......

Honostly, if you have to ask how hard it is, and what does it take to put 44"s on a ranger, and how to do a solid axle swap, and how much "lift" do I need? Then I am sorry but you need to forget this project and go a lot smaller and more economical.

I am not trying in anyway to burst your bubble, but I promise you it is way harder to get everything right then what you are thinking. It is not a bolt in application by no means.

First off, you might as well plan on your rig being tore down about a minimum of 6 months(unless you have all the time in the world to work on it). And if you are going to attempt to do this yourself then you need to have mad fab skills and all the right tools, chopsaw, good welder, torches, good heavy drills (or drill press) grinders, some sort of heavy frame lift, (or at least a safe way of suspending your frame in mid air for long periods of time. You need to know four link geometry and you need to know how and where to measure off of to get your frame/axle combo squared in the rig.


Again I am not trying to discurage you, I am trying to help you spend your time and money in the right direction, if you have all the tools and skill, I will be glad to help you along the way with questions and answers. But I have seen a lot of people on rigs that thought they knew what they were doing or thought they could do it and they end up scrapping the project after about a year, and all they really did was waste a ton of money, time and a perfectly good rig. A lot of the time people wished they had just left it alone and put some decent size tires on it and wheeled it. The only other way is to take it to a very well known custom shop, (not a trucks accessories or show truck lift store) and then get ready to pour out the bucks.


Now here is my opinion on what you need to do to build what you are wanting. In my opinion lose the radius arms first thing, depending on what you are wanting to do with the rig, either put coils up front with a good four link set up, and leaf the rear, or do coils all the way around with 4 link front and rear.


Don't even give a D44 a second thought, go at LEAST a D60 but if you are gonna offroad only, which with this set up, you are, then go rockwells, cheaper then a D60 and way stronger and actually just as if not easier to work on. Ditch the steering and go hydrolic, your arms and the trucks box, pump and frame will thank you.


Unless I missed it somewhere you really need to say what your intentions with this rig is, show, mud, rocks, trails, snake river record jump, hill climbs, running over Tarus' while messing with the radio, what?
ok those last two were a joke but seriously what are you gonna do with it?


Let me know that and I will give you my opinion on which way I think you should go, or maybe you don't want my opinion since I just opened a monsoon on your parade. :black_eye




Here is my B2 on rockwells and 44"s with four link front and rear, and 8" Xj coils in the front and 4" XJ coils in the rear. I also have a little bit of a moty in her too:D

BTW 6.72 gears in the rockwells still isnt enough gearing in my opinion with 44"s, I would like to had 7.10's
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p24/creepycrawlers4x4/DSC03294.jpg

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p24/creepycrawlers4x4/DSC03292.jpg

[ignerntkneece]

geeze 2 weeks to put on a ttb lift, me and my dad put a 3 inch lift on my truck in an evenin... well prob. like 10 hours but thats cuttin the rivets on the stock brackets and such... it wasn't fun but i don't see 2 weeks to do that?







your truck and its goals would definatly take some work.........i would most likely not be able to pull that off in a weekend at home with my tools..


my truck definatly. a weekend solid of time with access to material i would dial it in too. two things i have not had in 15 months.


basically ripped all the shit out one night after it broke and went to bed pissed, woke up still pissed and was testing it the next night...


8.8/d35 one day.....d60 the next with all bolt on front end with shit i had laying around save for the hi steer arm which was covered in dust from waiting so long.. it took a few weeks to get it where i liked it cause i only had an hour or two here and there to change things due to my work schedule which was generally 12-16 hrs a day 7 days a week at that time. i changed it several times with spring experimentation to soften it up. and am changing it again.

when i get it where i like it i will weld up some decent looking mounts and hopefully be done for ahwhile.


grinder and a drill and a battery/alternator setup on my honda powered air compressor along with my metrinch set.


i have @ 10 k on it with most of that freeway. and with some luck my next spring combo will work out perfect.


with the first setup i had double blocks out back to level it:icon_surprised:, 44's would have easily fit...but it was too high for detroit freeway rushhours with 33's. i had to drive thru rush some times then another 150+ miles to get to work when the locations were bad. that and i cant use a tall truck where i like wheelin anyway. with the axle where i wanted it in front i was gonna need a new shaft as well as it was just acceptable with a long yoke on it, and i would have had to cut the k member to wheel. i am still finishing some test work with ttb so i want that k member intact for a spell longer...likely june/july..


so really...in basis....44's are easily fit depending on goals. after i get my preferred ride charactoristics, a guy could copy the setup and be running in hours like any old liftkit and axle swap.


then again, theres guys you will see like mentioned before that take two weeks to do a ttb bracket lift.:icon_confused:


its all in what it is and needs and what you gottz.

[Shane M]

Even 40's are tough UNLESS your not afraid to cut.
http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p119/Shane_McK/100_3071.jpg

[Evan]

I agree with what Punisher said on this. You need to think about the resources you have and how they'd best be used. The four main resources when it comes to building rigs are time, money, knowledge, and shop capability. Personally, I'd love to have Rockwells and 44s under the Explorer. I have the money and knowledge to do so, but a somewhat limited shop and very limited time. Therefore I decided to do a build based on the stock infrastructure of the truck. Even that was somewhat time consuming.

So you need to build a truck that you can cover with those 4 resources. For some that might be a truck with rear locker and 31s, for others like Punisher it could be the ultimate rig. Either way, the point is to hit the trails and have a blast, and take pride in the truck you worked on and/or built.

[Boggin-B-Series]

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p119/Shane_McK/100_3071.jpg

Im diggin the caution sticker on the forklift:3gears: