Has anyone ever used Royal Purple oil?


How does RP do? It outperforms in manual and automatics.
 
Use specified oil and you'll be fine.

Royal Purple is no better in any sense than any other synthetic, and some of them are worse for street applications (not all RPs are API rated). It's better in a few senses than conventional oil, but your vehicle will do absolutely fine on conventional oil of the proper weight changed every 3000-5000 miles.

If you think you'll gain mileage, it's cheaper (and just as ineffective) to put a magnet on your fuel line....
 
MAKG have you ever used Royal Purple products?
And how have you reached your conclusion that RP is no better than other synthetics?

Oh and I would be interested in your mileage tests as well as compared to other independent studies-and why you would change transmission oil at 3-5000 miles
 
MudSweatNGearz said:
has anyone ever used royal purple oil if so how did it do? does it work good?
has anyone used it in a transmission?
Click to expand...

My Ex g/f insisted on only Royal Purple Oil body rubs...never used in a tranny but it sure got her motor running...:hottubfun:

Now, seriously, what is RPO? I need a good oil for my tranny and was thinking of that TransMedic stuff (used it before and it seemed to work fine)...
 
Define "better." You don't need perfect oil in an engine. Its effects will be indistinguishable from an adequate oil.

Yes, I used Royal Purple once, and AMSoil once. Never again. Far too expensive for no gain. For extended changing intervals, Mobil 1 works just as well (a used oil analysis is the ONLY way to do this right).

Tell me, what independent tests have YOU seen? Virtually everything out there is marketing BS done by the manufacturer.

3000-5000 miles is for crankcase oil. Change all fluids at recommended intervals and you'll be fine. Just make sure you change everything after water fouling due to deep water crossings.

These are not racing applications and racing oils are not appropriate. Just how hot do you think the oil gets? Why do you care if the breakdown temperature is 400 vs 450 deg?
 
Probably helpful for leading competitive racers at the national level, just lightens everyone else's wallet.
 
Given the stress and heat transmissions build up, if you tow a lot it may not be a bad idea. It isn't like an engine where you change the oil every few thousand miles, and most automatics are way undercooled from the factory.
 
So the oil doesn't break down, but the clutches still do. And any other synthetic ATF will work just as well. As will conventional ATF.

Racing transmissions don't have to withstand 150,000 miles of abuse. Why one would think racing lubrication is appropriate for something that does is beyond me.

If that undercooling thing were true (it isn't), the solution would be more cooling.

Frankly, if you're burning conventional ATF, your transmission is slipping and it will burn ANY ATF. And the solution may be to turn the fricken overdrive off.
 
i'm not too sure but isen't there some reason to use gl-4 versus gl-5 because of shifting reasons?
 
MAKG said:
So the oil doesn't break down, but the clutches still do. And any other synthetic ATF will work just as well. As will conventional ATF.

Racing transmissions don't have to withstand 150,000 miles of abuse. Why one would think racing lubrication is appropriate for something that does is beyond me.

If that undercooling thing were true (it isn't), the solution would be more cooling.

Frankly, if you're burning conventional ATF, your transmission is slipping and it will burn ANY ATF. And the solution may be to turn the fricken overdrive off.
Click to expand...

Just extra insurance is all I am saying, general rule of thumb is that around 200 degrees standard fluid starts breaking down. I have not seen racing fluids mentioned anywhere here, and I wouldn't run any oil that doesn't meet the recomended spec, but in that enviroment I don't think synthetic is too bad of an idea.

In some areas of the country with hills and a good load you still shift a fair amount even with the OD off, and build up heat because of it (especially when you tow in July and August like I do) Also if you get stuck and try to rock it out you can build up a lot of heat in the process as well. For a truck that runs around town pretty much empty there isn't much call for it.
 
From the tests I have read about:
Reduced wear
Uniform molecule size
Higher hydrophobic properties
Higher oxidation resistance
Fuel economy increases
Horsepower & torque increases
Temperature reduction
Decreased wear-including reduced start up wear
Higher film strength- better ring sealing- less metal to metal contact
Reduced emissions
Reduced environmental impact
Molecular bonding to metal surfaces
All are benefits of at least Royal Purple products.
Micro polishing of metal surfaces

Add, high quality bypass filters that practically eliminate wear particles and you increase oil life substantially.

I have not yet seen one single test or study that has proven the above false.
BS claims can be handled by litigation however I know of no such cases either.
 
It's no use argueing with mak, you wont change his mind. He is set in his ways and what works for him. He is a traditionalist and sticks with thats worked for him. And theres nothing wrong with sticking with what works instead of trying to fix what isnt broken.
 
Oh I'm not worried about traditionalist opinions however I am more interested in quality, performance and longevity.
 
MAKG said:
Use specified oil and you'll be fine.

Royal Purple is no better in any sense than any other synthetic, and some of them are worse for street applications (not all RPs are API rated). It's better in a few senses than conventional oil, but your vehicle will do absolutely fine on conventional oil of the proper weight changed every 3000-5000 miles.

If you think you'll gain mileage, it's cheaper (and just as ineffective) to put a magnet on your fuel line....
Click to expand...

Actually, ALL of the RP products ARE API certified, and RP is NOT a MLM company like Scamsoil! Scamsoil is the one that only has 2 oil products API certified, and tries to deceive you into believing ALL their oil products are
API certified......But I agree with you, don't waste your money on a synthetic, whan an API certified dino oil will do just fine!!
 
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