View Full Version : 2 topics: driving chirping and not running belt to ac comp?
Shotokan1509
08-28-2007, 09:56 PM
Two topics.. couldn't really put them in a category. By the way, good to be back registered with TRS, been busy but still lurked a bit.
95 ranger 4.0 4x4 auto trans manual hubs
1.) Low speed I hear a chirping, I am guessing drivers side front. The chirping stops if I touch the brakes, and I do not think I hear it at higher speeds. Everything brake job 15-20k ago.. bearings 5k ago. Slight shudder under hard braking, but not a full on warped feel.
2.) Last summer I tried to recharge my a/c and found the leak because the recharge blew a line completely off. I never fixed it and well.. i am guessing my compressor is junk since that line was not capped for a while. Do you think I should run a shorter belt to skip the compressor completely?
The squeak could be a bent dust shield touching the rotor...I'd check that before you take anything apart, or it could be a pad dragging.
And the previous owner of my truck removed the A/C compressor so it has a shorter belt on it.... I couldn't tell you if its still good though.
Wicked_Sludge
08-28-2007, 11:48 PM
why would your compressor be junk? if you want A/C you can just flush and evacuate the system. if you dont want it, just let your current belt right the compressors idler pulley...it wont hurt anything.
or you can convert the compressor for on-board-air use :D
Shotokan1509
08-29-2007, 08:27 AM
why would your compressor be junk? if you want A/C you can just flush and evacuate the system. if you dont want it, just let your current belt right the compressors idler pulley...it wont hurt anything.
or you can convert the compressor for on-board-air use :D
I "capped" the line (tape).. at some point in the middle of last winter I lost the tape and the line (to the top of the compressor) was open to the elements. Just assuming it got junked up. At this point I won't be trying to fix it this summer.
The squeak could be a bent dust shield touching the rotor...I'd check that before you take anything apart, or it could be a pad dragging.
When I did the full brake job I put reman'ed calipers on. Think I just need to regrease the slides? Obviously I really just need to take the wheel off, but need to find the time.. I have to tear apart the parents Taurus dash first.. all the instrument bulbs are burnt out = no speedo at night.
A hard-braking-only shudder is often due to marginal rotors. They get a little too hot and warp temporarily. If this is going on, measuring runout on a cold rotor will very often yield good results. Measure the thickness. If it's below or near minimum, replace the rotors. Warped rotors will shudder under all braking conditions, down to a dead stop.
Shotokan1509
09-03-2007, 10:26 PM
A hard-braking-only shudder is often due to marginal rotors. They get a little too hot and warp temporarily. If this is going on, measuring runout on a cold rotor will very often yield good results. Measure the thickness. If it's below or near minimum, replace the rotors. Warped rotors will shudder under all braking conditions, down to a dead stop.
I'll take a gander sometime this week.
Any opinions on whether I should bypass the never used a/c compressor?
Wicked_Sludge
09-03-2007, 10:39 PM
bypassing the compressor wont accomplish anything...but if your addiment about bypassing it, it wont hurt anything to do so.
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