View Full Version : Doin the 63" Chevy leaf swap.
Woods-Rider
03-18-2008, 10:33 PM
I have been looking around for some lift springs for a while to get rid of my stacked blocks but just cant justify the $$$ for a new pack. I'm planning on swapping in the chevy leafs then making some shackles to compensate for the rest (need a total of 6" to get rid of both blocks). I was out at the local wrecking yard today scoping some trucks out and spotted a '95 1500 4x4 prime for the pickin. one thing though, it had 5 leaves including the overload spring, i thought they only had 4:icon_confused:. I measured from bolt to bolt and it was about 61" so i am assuming these are the correct packs. If i have time i will go pull them tomorrow and do the swap over spring break next week.
also on the agenda is swapping in a new T-case shift motor, sealing up front diff (small leak), and installing some of these on top of my frame rails under the bed utilizing that 3" gap to hold an ax and shovel.
http://www.endroad.com/i//QF-beautyShot3final.jpg
Pics to come!
wahlstrom1
03-18-2008, 10:44 PM
The overload is not counted in the pack, hance the extra leaf. I only payed $275 for a set of brand spankin new 5.5" procomp 88-98' chevy leafs, so I wouldn't say a new set of leafs is out of the question. Sounds like a fun project, and good luck if your not pullin your bed, it's a lil fun.....
-andrew
97BlackBetty
03-18-2008, 10:55 PM
HAHAHAHA My nickname at work is QuickFist. Because I ordered 2 packs of the regulars and one of the Supers and I will be sailing on a boat all summer. Hence the nick name. They freaking rock though. Im doing the same thing with the axe and shovel and the super is for a large fire extinguisher on the back wall of the cab.
Sasquatch_Ryda
03-18-2008, 11:04 PM
I'm using the quickfists aswell, for my shovel and hi lift.
Good luck with the spring swap. It took me a friend about 4 hours to complete, we undid the bed bolts and lifted it up to help with gaining access for grinding and redrilling the holes to move the front hanger forward.
Woods-Rider
03-19-2008, 01:37 PM
It took me a friend about 4 hours to complete, we undid the bed bolts and lifted it up to help with gaining access for grinding and redrilling the holes to move the front hanger forward.
Thats what i plan on doing. just unbolting one side at a time while the other side is pretty loose and holding it up some with blocks to make it easier. The swap should start on monday or tuesday.
JFA_Spyderman
03-20-2008, 12:21 AM
Yo,
I'm gonna be doin this swap soon as well. Any pics would be sweet. Thanks!
Sasquatch_Ryda
03-20-2008, 02:01 AM
Heres a couple of shots I took when I did mine.
This is the front spring mount now grafted into the rear cabmount
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/1/web/601000-601999/601030_160_full.jpg
My extended shackles I built
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/1/web/601000-601999/601030_161_full.jpg
Otherside of the cab mount/ leaf mount combo
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/1/web/601000-601999/601030_162_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/1/web/601000-601999/601030_163_full.jpg
You can see the outline of where the front leaf mount used to be on the frame and how I moved it forward and used one of the factory rivet holes on each side to keep everything square.
Any other questions fire away
Woods-Rider
03-20-2008, 10:11 AM
thanks Sasquatch_Ryda, I'm sure I'll reference these at some point next week.
JFA_Spyderman
03-20-2008, 07:49 PM
Yo,
On my std. cab, it looks like the cab brackets are smaller and not going to interfere. Any ideas on if this is actually the case? Thanks!
4x4junkie
03-20-2008, 08:05 PM
On my Ranger, there's gobs of room to move the brackets forward (like about 16").
IIRC yours is a shortbed?, which I would think would cut that room down to 10" (still plenty of room).
Woods-Rider
03-23-2008, 10:56 PM
yeah, i measured my ex. cab short bed and there is plenty of room.
sweetsride
03-24-2008, 12:07 AM
Ya, that was a good swap we did on Sasquatch_Ryda truck, well worth the work and time of the swap. The amount of flex he gain over the stock set up was fricken awsome.
Good, luck on the swap, post some before and after flex pics when done
later
kris
Woods-Rider
03-24-2008, 12:19 PM
will do. the swap and pics should start tomottow!
Woods-Rider
03-25-2008, 05:14 PM
So i got the bed off and one of the leaf packs out. i put it next to one of the chevy packs and the arc is about the same. Is it supposed to be like that? In both pics the ranger pack in on top of the chevy pack.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2539000-2539999/2539158_53_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2539000-2539999/2539158_54_full.jpg
Need feedback ASAP. I dont want to continue if i have the wrong leaf packs.
Woods-Rider
03-25-2008, 06:58 PM
Ran into another problem. it looks like the four bolts that hold on the front hangers also connect two parts of my frame. the frame under the bed is just bolted onto the frame under the cab. here's some pics to help you understand what i am trying to say. I assume that if i put four 1/2" grade 8 bolts back in those holes after i move the hanger forward it should be fine but just wanted some opinions first. looks like i need to make another run to the hardware store.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2539000-2539999/2539158_55_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2539000-2539999/2539158_56_full.jpg
Woods-Rider
03-25-2008, 07:02 PM
Sasquatch_Ryda, got any more pics of those shackles you built?
Sasquatch_Ryda
03-25-2008, 09:00 PM
Hmm mine didn't have that crossmember there, but if you stuff the holes with some grade 8 bolts you'll be golden. I can get you some more pics of the shackle if you want, I just extended the stock shackle so it was 7.5" eye to eye. My chevy leafs didn't have much arch to them either, I also took the overload out the of pack aswell on mine. I'm running the chevy leafs with the stock block plus my extended shackle for about 5" of lift, so the cehvies give you about 2-3" of lift.
Woods-Rider
03-25-2008, 11:30 PM
And yet another problem. I ground down one of the rivets on the front hanger all the way but couldn't pop it out so i drilled a 7/16" hole all the way through and still can't get it out. How do i get it out of there??? In the pic you can see the outline of the rivet around the hole so i know i have it ground down all the way.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2539000-2539999/2539158_57_full.jpg
wahlstrom1
03-25-2008, 11:46 PM
I cut the heads off with a torch and used and air hammer to take them out....use a large drift (big punch) and knock them out with the BFH.
-andrew
Dishtowel
03-26-2008, 10:09 AM
In the past I have drilled the rivet just as you have then if the BFH couldn't bother it I cut a slot in it with the torch. Like so.http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/1/web/2929000-2929999/2929003_302_full.jpg
CopyKat
03-26-2008, 10:50 AM
Drill it 1/2". Better yet drill all of them 1/2"
That's what I did.
Woods-Rider
03-26-2008, 02:15 PM
I dont have a torch and the only 1/2" bits i have are chepo chinese ones that don't cut worth shi*. I got one out (came out pretty easy for some reason) but the other three are being stubborn. I am trying the BFH approach with a punch wuth not much luck.
Try using an air chisel, those things work great for getting those rivets out.
I would take the bed completely off, makes things way easier, you've already done the hard part anyways by taking the bolts out of it, all you need to do it unplug the lights and take the three screws out of the gas filler neck.
I have a std. cab short bed also, and there was no interference with the cab mounts for me either, I take it only the ex. cabs have that problem.
Woods-Rider
03-26-2008, 02:51 PM
I did decide to take the bed all the way off, its hanging in an oak tree in our front yard building style points for the nieghborhood lol.
That air chisel worked great, now for the other 6 lol.
Woods-Rider
03-26-2008, 06:54 PM
Got both hangers off (damn, that was a lot of grinding and drilling) then went to mark the new holes to drill and discovered this.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2539000-2539999/2539158_59_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2539000-2539999/2539158_60_full.jpg
the holes are not the same distance apart on both sides. since the holes on both sides are lie on parallel lines i thought i could just use both existing forward holes for the rear bolts on the hanger. here's what the top rear hole looks like when the bottom rear holes are lined up.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2539000-2539999/2539158_61_full.jpg
Do you guys think i can just drill a new hole there anyways and it will be fine?
Sasquatch_Ryda
03-26-2008, 08:28 PM
hmmm I never realized how different the hangers were on the newer ones. I think you would be fine to drill a hole and run a bolt through there with a flat washer.
Woods-Rider
03-27-2008, 12:44 AM
Good cuz thats what im startin now after 5 glasses of wine and 4 beers from a family dinner. (gonna be an uncle in about 3 weeks)
Sasquatch_Ryda
03-27-2008, 01:46 AM
The other 3 bolt holes you drill will keep it from moving around, so you should be fine with one so so bolt hole like that. If you were worried about it you could drill another hole in the bracket below that one and drill another hole in the frame so all the bolts have a proper hole.
Congrats on the uncle status!
reddog5
03-27-2008, 09:32 AM
I welded the holes closed and drilled new ones. If you drill new holes with the exissting use some large washers to maximize surface area.
Woods-Rider
03-27-2008, 09:09 PM
Got the hangers bolted in their new locations and the springs in. I thought i could use my stock U-bolts but the thread doesn't go down far enough so i either have to get new ones tomorrow or just keep the stock block. anyone know how long i would need to make the shackles if i wanted 6" of lift from the new leafs and shackles? I should probably just keep the stock block so i only need to make up for removing the 4" block. what do you guys think? oh and some pics.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2539000-2539999/2539158_62_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2539000-2539999/2539158_63_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2539000-2539999/2539158_64_full.jpg
Woods-Rider
03-27-2008, 09:18 PM
Does the E-brake cable on the pass side go over or under the springs? I put it over thinking it would be more protected but there isn't much slack for down travel. I just can't remember how it was before i took it apart.
Sasquatch_Ryda
03-27-2008, 11:56 PM
I had to build and extension for the ebrake cable mount where it attaches to the front hanger to relocate it back to the stock position. My cables are ontop of the springs. Right now i'm running my stock block with the chevy leafs and an extended shackle that measures 7.5" eye to eye for around 6" of lift.
Install is looking good, wait till you flex it out, you'll love it. The on road ride is much improved aswell compares to the stock leafs.
Woods-Rider
03-28-2008, 12:02 AM
Did you leave the overload leaf? was your pack from a 2wd or 4wd?
bobbywalter
03-28-2008, 12:21 AM
you can run some angle at the bottom of the rail and drop the hanger as well you know to dump the blocks and tune the lift to needs.
Woods-Rider
03-28-2008, 02:00 PM
Slow progress today. I need to make a trip to Napa to pick up some longer U-bolts and decided to go with the belltec 6400 shackles, but i need to coordinate with my brother to use his truck. should wrap things up today though and ill post up some before and after flex shots.
Woods-Rider
03-28-2008, 04:15 PM
anyone have any pics of their E-brake bracket after this swap?
Woods-Rider
03-28-2008, 06:51 PM
Got everything together minus the bed and took it for a test drive. It was REALLY stiff but thats what i expected since i left all 4 leafs and the overload on. So now ill go back and take some off, just have to decide which ones and how many.
Hondafreak08
03-28-2008, 09:42 PM
so i really want to do this swap. Let me get ths right 88-98 chevy 1500 4x4 or 2wd 63'' leafs.. And use the stock ranger shackles/brackets.
Sasquatch_Ryda
03-28-2008, 10:15 PM
Did you leave the overload leaf? was your pack from a 2wd or 4wd?
I believe mine were out of a 2wd, i removed the overload and have 3 leafs left in my pack.
I don't have any pics of my e brake hanger extension, but its just a piece of flat par that is 6" long welded to the stock bracket.
Sasquatch_Ryda
03-28-2008, 10:16 PM
you can run some angle at the bottom of the rail and drop the hanger as well you know to dump the blocks and tune the lift to needs.
Either its been a long day or I don't quite understand what you're getting at bobby...?
Oh and hondafreak...to complete this swap you need a set of the 63" leafs, you need to remove the front spring hanger from the frame and move it 6" forward, you will also need a set of extended shackles.
Woods-Rider
03-29-2008, 11:45 PM
so now its all done minus the bed still since i need my bros help to get it on. With the 5 leafs is was really stiff and didnt flex too well since my shock was maxed (just over 12" of travel).Oh and i threw on some Belltech 6400's.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2539000-2539999/2539158_66_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2539000-2539999/2539158_65_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2539000-2539999/2539158_67_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2539000-2539999/2539158_68_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2539000-2539999/2539158_69_full.jpg
So i went back to the drawing board and took out a leaf and the overload which left me with three leafs. It rides like a caddy now! all tires are still on the ground in (unlike in the pics above) and looks to have the same flex. I am pretty confident that it will perform better with the bed weight back there also. It is yet to be seen as to whether or not i will need some longer shocks. still have about 3" left with the three leaf setup and no bed weight.I dont have too many pics yet but will get more hopefully soon.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2539000-2539999/2539158_70_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2539000-2539999/2539158_71_full.jpg
Here are some before flex pics for comparison even though the bed is on in these.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2539000-2539999/2539158_47_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2539000-2539999/2539158_48_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2539000-2539999/2539158_49_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2539000-2539999/2539158_50_full.jpg
bobbywalter
03-29-2008, 11:46 PM
you can tune the ride by removing leafs...or adding thinner leafs ect....
and then set ride height by lowering the front spring hanger on the frame
and maybe adding a longer shackle, or lowering the rear shackle hanger.
dodge dakota rear shackle hangers will raise ride ht over an inch. but remember your d shaft angles...
to support lowering the spring hangers bottom holes past the rail, put plate to the side of the frame that extends down past the rail and or angle on the bottom of the frame to support the two lower mounting holes on the spring hanger. similar to a fullsize chevy.
alot of people do that to shitcan the factory block.
Woods-Rider
03-30-2008, 11:25 PM
Here is a back to back comparison from before the swap and after. before I had stock leafs with 6" of stacked blocks:shok:. after i have the stock 2" block, 3 63" chevy leafs and Belltech 6400 shackles. FYI, i know in the before pic the tire is not off the ground but there is no weight on it, i could pull up on the bumper very lightly and it would lift.
Before is on the top, after is below for each view
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2539000-2539999/2539158_47_full.jpghttp://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2539000-2539999/2539158_72_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2539000-2539999/2539158_48_full.jpghttp://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2539000-2539999/2539158_73_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2539000-2539999/2539158_49_full.jpghttp://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2539000-2539999/2539158_74_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2539000-2539999/2539158_50_full.jpghttp://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2539000-2539999/2539158_75_full.jpg
Redneckryder
03-30-2008, 11:37 PM
ok---i am not trying to hijack, but could you get the 63 inchers, and re-arch them to fit the ranger mounts?
Sasquatch_Ryda
03-31-2008, 12:47 AM
that would be a pretty big arch and most likey ride like crap and not flex at all, which would defeat the purpose of the swap the first place.
Woods-rider - looks good, gained some flex too. Are the shocks to short now? Also, how long are the belltech shackles eye to eye?
JFA_Spyderman
03-31-2008, 08:49 AM
Yo,
Take off the shocks and see how much flex you have the possibility of. Lookin Good!
CopyKat
03-31-2008, 09:16 AM
Move the shock mount on the axle from under to tube centerline or slightly above. Shouldn't need more than a 12" travel shock in the stock location. If you move them out then you'll eat up 12" travel easily.
Woods-Rider
03-31-2008, 11:35 AM
Woods-rider - looks good, gained some flex too. Are the shocks to short now? Also, how long are the belltech shackles eye to eye?
Yeah the flex is awesome and ride is great. in that flex pic i still have about 2.5" left of shock travel and the tire is off the ground so i think i am good. I'll keep an eye on it though just to make sure. IIRC the shackles were 7.5" eye to eye. I got about 5 or 6" of lift from this swap and took out a 4" block so i have a little rake now, but a torsion crank can fix that!
Woods-Rider
03-31-2008, 11:39 AM
Move the shock mount on the axle from under to tube centerline or slightly above. Shouldn't need more than a 12" travel shock in the stock location. If you move them out then you'll eat up 12" travel easily.
yeah i thought about that but they are the shi**y superlift shocks so i think i would just use it as an excuse to upgrade.
reddog5
04-10-2008, 04:04 PM
How are the rear brake lines at full droop?
Sasquatch_Ryda
04-10-2008, 08:42 PM
I'm running a stock rear flex line still on mine, i just extended the bracket that it mounts to on the frame as there is alot of hard line up there.
Woods-Rider
04-11-2008, 11:33 AM
Yeah, there seems to be plenty of line, just had to make a bracket to relocate the mount to the stock position
MEAKIN
12-03-2009, 05:48 PM
any pics of e-brake extension?
Woods-Rider
12-03-2009, 08:03 PM
Yeah. It took me a couple of trys since I under estimated the tension on the cable when the brake is engaged.
Here is the gap I had to bridge.
http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll217/Woods-Rider/IMG_0841.jpg?t=1259891959
This was my first attempt and obviously didnt hold up.
http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll217/Woods-Rider/IMG_0840.jpg?t=1259891910
Second attempt. This one probably would have worked but I ended up welding on a top peice to make it like a piece of angle steel and it has held up just fine. (dont have a pic of it though)
http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll217/Woods-Rider/IMG_0839.jpg?t=1259891979
http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll217/Woods-Rider/IMG_0843.jpg?t=1259892059
And a whoring pic of my latest creation for good measure.
http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll217/Woods-Rider/IMG_1516.jpg?t=1259892125
http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll217/Woods-Rider/IMG_1518.jpg?t=1259892184
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