Long travel TTB suspension with EB coils

I'm sure by now most have you have at least glanced at my build thread.

I noticed awhile back that there was no information about adapting EB (Early Bronco) coils onto the TTB suspensions. I figured I would pass on my knowledge from my build.


I started my build by grabbing a set of stock Dana 35 TTB radius arms. I ordered up 6 feet of 2" O.D. square tubing 1/4" wall. I cleaned up my radius arms and cut measured where 2" would fit snugly inside them. I incorp. 4 degrees of caster into the beams when I welded them up. I also welded new shock tabs onto the arms to eliminate the stud design. Im sure most of you have replaced their fare share of them. It's a good idea to drill 2 or 3 holes in the arm and plug weld them back shut. I also ended up plating the bend in my arms with 1/8" plate. I used rod ends for the end of my arms. Ended up using Ballistic Fab rod ends with a 1.25" thread and 9/16" through bolt. Here's where I got creative. Everyone I talked to said they hated the tires rubbing on their arms. So, I got the bright Idea to put a bend in them. Doing some measuring, I came up with 18 degrees. That angle is perfect for eliminating any tire rub within reason and still keep proper suspension geometry throughout the suspension cycling.






Here are my mounts. Everything is 1/4" plate welded with a 220 Mig welder. I also welded washers to the rod end mounting point for extra strength.






With the amount of suspension travel you're creating, you've got to remake your transmission crossmember. I ran into trouble with clearance having an auto transmission. Here's my finished product.

Lost a little ground clearance and had to remove my skid plate. No big deal.







Driveshaft clearance.



I had to get skyjacker beam drop brackets due to clearance problems with the "ever popular" drop plate drive side bracket.

To adapt EB coils to the ranger TTB you need to do 2 things. Make an adapter plate for the bottom of the coil spring, and cut the FRONT tabs off the coil bucket. I used BC Bronco's 3.5" coils. Looking back, I should have gotten their 3.5 coil with winch due to having to add 5/8" spacer to level the truck.




For the upper coil retainer, I used a piece of 1/8" flat stock and bent it up around the coil and bolted it together, acting as a clamp



Here you an see the difference between a stock extended cab coil, a 4" TTB coil, and a 3.5" EB coil


To properly use the flex you've now created, you need to have a shock long enough to not limit it. My solution was cut the stock coil bucket, plate it, and bolt an F250 shock tower next to it. I ended up using a BDS shock with 35.5" extended and 20.4" collapsed length.



Steering is another thing that DEFINITELY needs to be addressed when using flexy coils. TRE binding WILL occur with stock steering and suspension traveling while driving WILL occur. I used a modified stonecrusher steering setup with 3/4 ton GM T.R.E's but you could also use Superunner steering. I later modified this setup with some bends for clearance issues and swapped out the FA600 for an FA400



* DO NOT FORGET TO CHECK FOR CLEARANCE ISSUES!!!!* I ended up trimming my passenger side axle shaft due to binding as well as opening up the passenger side window for the shaft.

Final Product:





Full droop:

good way to go on a level system.

theres several threads with pics of setups from bolt it parts to full mod. i remember posting pics of bolt ins.

excellent setup you have honed.

Thanks dude. Mean a lot coming from you. And I know there are threads out there. "ThatFabGuy"'s build is the one that really got me dead set on building the TTB. I just wanted to add to the tech library.

1.) I know for a fact there are no "fabricated" arms out there with a bend in them eliminating the rubbing issue.

2.) This shows in a step by step manner how I set up my suspension.

Hopefully Jim Oaks will add this. I think it will be a great addition.

got my vote for tech based on the arm clearance alone, as to this point all offered arms do rub to some extent. my duff arms were maintenance intensive but got by. most likely i will mod those on the next ttb build to work like yours do.

Do you have a sway bar set up on there? The last pic makes it look like there is? or is it a quick disconnect?

I used Heim joints for my sway bar links. I just have a pin with a clip that I remove and tie it out of the way when I wheel.

So how well does the square tubing hold up compared to the DOM that most everyone uses?

How did you do the bend?

it will require work with a big engine and tires....i bent mine a few times...it lightened caster 2 deg or so before i would straighten it...



with stock power and reasonable tires i could see them being issue free.

country0001 said:

So how well does the square tubing hold up compared to the DOM that most everyone uses?

How did you do the bend?

Click to expand...

Just exactly what Bobbywalter said. With reasonable size tires (I wouldnt go any bigger than 35s on the TTB anyways) and a smallish engine (4.0L) they should last quite a while.

I DID plate mine with 1/8" at the bend though for extra strength.

I took my tubing down to Worthington Trailer's fabrication shop. They have an industrial tubing bender for their frames. They bent it for free.

I like this, this should go in the library

I'm hoping Jim will see this momentarily.

nice write up. I like it.

If I could ask, what drop brackets are you using?

I like your setup - I have plans to modify mine once I complete the V8 conversion.

Thanks.

EDIT: I just re-read it, and saw you listed Skyjacker brackets. Question answered.

I tried to go in depth as much as possible on parts/brands used.

That's impressive nice work. I wish I had TTB