Location of drain hose?

reno · Mar 12, 2008

I was looking for my drain hose for the A/C, but can't seem to find it. So I started the truck, ran the A/C on Max to make it drip, I seen some dripping,but that was coming from the box cover where the evaporator\heater core\Fan is at. Where is the drain line at on a 93 Ranger 4wd?

MAKG · Mar 12, 2008

It's on the firewall right below that box. Maybe that's what you saw?

reno · Mar 12, 2008

That is where I figured it should be, but no, the water dripping was from the front of the box (the back would be at the firewall). Not to worried about it now, I have been reading my book I bought and have reviewed the DVD twice, to get ready to check out this system once my manifold gauges arrive.

Hey Makg, how do I tell what oil is in the system? I noticed this was a R-12, but now is R134A, just want to make sure the former owner did not just fix a simple leak, then goto Wal-mart, buy a conversion kit, and of ya go. We know what will happen if the 2 different oils are mixed. I have not been running the system until I check it out, yesterday was the first time in a month. And what is the easiest way to change the oil from the Compressor?

MAKG · Mar 12, 2008

There is no way to tell what oil is in the system if it doesn't say on the retrofit sticker.

If there is no retrofit sticker, get the sucker flushed. As you have surmised, you don't know what crap the PO put in there.

Ester and PAG oil are compatible; no worries. Ester and mineral (R-12) oil are also compatible. PAG and mineral oil aren't.

There really is only one way to drain oil from the compressor. Remove it and put it butt-down in a reasonably clean pan, and turn the hub by hand until the oil stops coming out. DO NOT flush a compressor.

Whenever opening the system, change the orifice tube and receiver/drier. Often, the tube catches a sample of goop circulating in the system (such as old stop-leak or bits of compressor) that might clue you into a latent problem. Should be nice and clean.

You'll need an electric vacuum pump. Check Craigslist. I got one for $30 that way. The venturi type pumps are useless and will work your air compressor very hard.

NEVER just top off the system. You will almost certainly overcharge it, and whatever is leaking will continue to leak. Similarly, never use stop-leak.

reno · Mar 12, 2008

I was given a Venturi type, will have to check craigslist. I know how costly it can be to run the Venturi pump. Might even look for a cheap refrigerator or freezer just to steal the pump from it, solder the correct fitting on the suction side, then Viola! a vacuum pump.

MAKG · Mar 13, 2008

If you "make" a vacuum pump, it must be capable of at least 24.5 inches vacuum at your altitude (29.5 inches at sea level). That a refrigerator might be able to do this is not at all obvious. Seals in that compressor are designed for pressure, not vacuum.

If it will only do a few inches, you can't tell if your system is leaking and you won't boil off remaining water. I.e., you're wasting your time.

skippy · Mar 13, 2008

3cfm professional pumps run about $300 new in the box and give years of service.also you can check pawn shops,i've seen them from time to time.

i've done the small refer compressor deal and it's not worth it,as mike said,won't be adequate.

94Rangerfcb · May 1, 2008

Where exactly is the drain?

I had my AC fixed for the season. It cools great. I never see any water dripping under the truck. And it smells a little musty.

Mine also leaks from the front of the evaporator. Is it just a hole close to the firewall? Any drain tube?

skippy · May 1, 2008

94Rangerfcb said:
Where exactly is the drain?

I had my AC fixed for the season. It cools great. I never see any water dripping under the truck. And it smells a little musty.

Mine also leaks from the front of the evaporator. Is it just a hole close to the firewall? Any drain tube?

yes,should be a rubber drain tube on lower fire wall passenger side.look between engine and a/c box down low.

Location of drain hose?

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