Mark_88
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Aug 11, 2007
- Messages
- 18,554
- Reaction score
- 240
- Points
- 63
- Age
- 68
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
- Vehicle Year
- 2007
- Make / Model
- Dordge
- Engine Size
- 3.3 Fuel Injected
- Transmission
- Automatic
- My credo
- Love Thy Neighbor
Original Poster: Mark_88
Difficulty: 1 out of 10
Time to install: About 30 minutes
Disclaimer: The Ranger Station.com, The Ranger Station.com Staff, nor the original poster are responsible for you doing this modification to your vehicle. By doing this modification and following this how-to you, the installer, take full responsibility if anything is damaged or messed up. If you have questions, feel free to PM the original poster or ask in the appropriate section of The Ranger Station.com forums.
Brief Explanation:
On carbureted 2.0 and 2.3 engines there is a vent pipe from the Valve Cover (VC) or oil filler cap that goes into the breather. With a bit of excess pressure in the engine this can lead to oil or foam pooling in the breather which is both messy and generally destroys a good air filter. This, hopefully, will allow the oil to be trapped in the container and the air can then be vented back to the breather.
UPDATE: My engine needs a rebuild but I recently had to modify the catch can to control oil burning. The oil was being sucked up into the base of the carb and resulted in plenty of smoke. I have included photos of the mod.
Tools Needed:
- screw driver (slot head)
- blade knife
Parts Needed:
- container (varies) to catch the oil
- hoses to fit both the breather connector and container (varies)
- clamps for the hoses (I used only 1 but will need more)
Notes: I found an F350 Turbo diesel that had a perfect container. It was the coolant reservoir and it had the correct size spouts for the inlet and outlet hoses to match the ones on both my valve cover and breather connector.
You can pretty much use anything here, but the one I used was deep enough to prevent the oil from climbing up the hose and had a few chambers that were connected but allowed the air to flow while trapping the oil. It may be necessary to stuff the top of the air return with some steel wool that will help trap the oil and keep it in the container.
The connector hose from my VC to the container came from a Mazda 2.3 circa 1997 and fit almost perfectly. I just had to cut a small chunk of fuel line (3.8” diameter x 4” long) and it fit both connectors on that line exactly.
The outlet hose of the container was actually bigger than I anticipated (1”) so I stuffed an old VC vent hose (like the one on the VC end of the Mazda) into the hole and it was tight.
Modification images
This one shows the hoses running from the base PCV connection that normally would go into the PCV and then into the base of the carb. This actually routes the oily blow by into the catch can through a 5/8" heater hose. The 3/8" fuel line can be seen running back to the base of the carb.
http://i1179.photobucket.com/albums/x399/akwarian8/IMG-20120810-00130.jpg
This one shows the added connector about half way down the catch can. There is a removable lid on the catch can that I opened and stuffed in 3 or 4 bats of steel wool.
http://i1179.photobucket.com/albums/x399/akwarian8/IMG-20120810-00131.jpg
This one shows the top end where the cleaner air is directed to both the working PCV and a down and out hose that routes excess to the side of the truck. This will eventually lead back to the breather on the carb once I can be sure that it is actually eliminating most of the oil.
http://i1179.photobucket.com/albums/x399/akwarian8/IMG-20120810-00132.jpg
I have been looking for an oil separator that would be put on that line to eliminate the really messy oil that may make it past the steel wool.
The Container from F-350 Turbo Diesel
http://i1179.photobucket.com/albums/x399/akwarian8/Truck/Oil-Catch1.jpg
---------------------------------------------------------
Steps 1:
Once you find a suitable container to catch the oil, find a place on the passenger side of the engine bay and mount the container so it is easily accessible and can be removed to drain.
this image shows the placement of the container. It is only zip tied in but you can bolt yours in if desired.
http://i1179.photobucket.com/albums/x399/akwarian8/Truck/Oil-catch2.jpg
---------------------------------------------------------
Steps 2:
Once the container is in place, connect the hoses and take it for a spin.
This image shows the VC exit and return hoses connected. Much neater than before and, hopefully, I won't be leaving $$$ dollar $$$ drops on every paved surface.
http://i1179.photobucket.com/albums/x399/akwarian8/Truck/Oil-catch3.jpg
---------------------------------------------------------
---------------------------------------------------------
That’s pretty much all there is to it…
Difficulty: 1 out of 10
Time to install: About 30 minutes
Disclaimer: The Ranger Station.com, The Ranger Station.com Staff, nor the original poster are responsible for you doing this modification to your vehicle. By doing this modification and following this how-to you, the installer, take full responsibility if anything is damaged or messed up. If you have questions, feel free to PM the original poster or ask in the appropriate section of The Ranger Station.com forums.
Brief Explanation:
On carbureted 2.0 and 2.3 engines there is a vent pipe from the Valve Cover (VC) or oil filler cap that goes into the breather. With a bit of excess pressure in the engine this can lead to oil or foam pooling in the breather which is both messy and generally destroys a good air filter. This, hopefully, will allow the oil to be trapped in the container and the air can then be vented back to the breather.
UPDATE: My engine needs a rebuild but I recently had to modify the catch can to control oil burning. The oil was being sucked up into the base of the carb and resulted in plenty of smoke. I have included photos of the mod.
Tools Needed:
- screw driver (slot head)
- blade knife
Parts Needed:
- container (varies) to catch the oil
- hoses to fit both the breather connector and container (varies)
- clamps for the hoses (I used only 1 but will need more)
Notes: I found an F350 Turbo diesel that had a perfect container. It was the coolant reservoir and it had the correct size spouts for the inlet and outlet hoses to match the ones on both my valve cover and breather connector.
You can pretty much use anything here, but the one I used was deep enough to prevent the oil from climbing up the hose and had a few chambers that were connected but allowed the air to flow while trapping the oil. It may be necessary to stuff the top of the air return with some steel wool that will help trap the oil and keep it in the container.
The connector hose from my VC to the container came from a Mazda 2.3 circa 1997 and fit almost perfectly. I just had to cut a small chunk of fuel line (3.8” diameter x 4” long) and it fit both connectors on that line exactly.
The outlet hose of the container was actually bigger than I anticipated (1”) so I stuffed an old VC vent hose (like the one on the VC end of the Mazda) into the hole and it was tight.
Modification images
This one shows the hoses running from the base PCV connection that normally would go into the PCV and then into the base of the carb. This actually routes the oily blow by into the catch can through a 5/8" heater hose. The 3/8" fuel line can be seen running back to the base of the carb.
http://i1179.photobucket.com/albums/x399/akwarian8/IMG-20120810-00130.jpg
This one shows the added connector about half way down the catch can. There is a removable lid on the catch can that I opened and stuffed in 3 or 4 bats of steel wool.
http://i1179.photobucket.com/albums/x399/akwarian8/IMG-20120810-00131.jpg
This one shows the top end where the cleaner air is directed to both the working PCV and a down and out hose that routes excess to the side of the truck. This will eventually lead back to the breather on the carb once I can be sure that it is actually eliminating most of the oil.
http://i1179.photobucket.com/albums/x399/akwarian8/IMG-20120810-00132.jpg
I have been looking for an oil separator that would be put on that line to eliminate the really messy oil that may make it past the steel wool.
The Container from F-350 Turbo Diesel
http://i1179.photobucket.com/albums/x399/akwarian8/Truck/Oil-Catch1.jpg
---------------------------------------------------------
Steps 1:
Once you find a suitable container to catch the oil, find a place on the passenger side of the engine bay and mount the container so it is easily accessible and can be removed to drain.
this image shows the placement of the container. It is only zip tied in but you can bolt yours in if desired.
http://i1179.photobucket.com/albums/x399/akwarian8/Truck/Oil-catch2.jpg
---------------------------------------------------------
Steps 2:
Once the container is in place, connect the hoses and take it for a spin.
This image shows the VC exit and return hoses connected. Much neater than before and, hopefully, I won't be leaving $$$ dollar $$$ drops on every paved surface.
http://i1179.photobucket.com/albums/x399/akwarian8/Truck/Oil-catch3.jpg
---------------------------------------------------------
---------------------------------------------------------
That’s pretty much all there is to it…
Last edited: