Helga, My 88 B2 Build...

[Hahnsb2]

OK I just copied this from my build thread on B2.org. I will keep it updated!



Well I dont have any pics of when I first got it because my comp had to be reformatted.
Heres the specs which I will try to keep up-to-date.
88 EB edition
94 4.0 From Sploder Sport
M5OD 5 speed
Manual 1354
Warn manual Hubs
U-joint rear driveshaft
D35 front, aussie locker, e-clip eliminator
8.8 31 spline rear, Aussie locker
4.56 gears
3" PA body lift
34x10.50 Super Swamper LTBs
Custom made bumpers front and rear, warn 6k
Rear sploder springs with overloads removed
Full 2 1/2" exhaust, flowmaster 40 series and a before tire exit that run between the frame and body so I cant smash it.
4.0 auto radiator
Half Doors for wheelin
2X100Watt off-road lights
Oil pressure, water temp and vacuum gauges added
Heres right after I put the wheels and tires and brush guard from my parts rig on it, last spring break.
http://myspace-457.vo.llnwd.net/00630/75/41/630091457_l.jpg
Heres a pic of me on that same rock pile with snow.
http://myspace-367.vo.llnwd.net/01487/76/36/1487816367_l.jpg
Had to add this. See my sweet windshield crack?
http://myspace-399.vo.llnwd.net/00858/99/30/858090399_l.jpg
I made onboard air for free with shit I had laying around!
http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/186/onboardair15ku.jpg
http://img72.imageshack.us/img72/7792/onboardair22hi.jpg
Next came the 3" body lift and tires.
http://a527.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/17/l_f1227129b0e8b80ddff27fcf9414422e.jpg
http://a154.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/11/l_94b953eceafadb9a04b34f16f585aef1.jpg
Body lift gap fix.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2383000-2383999/2383636_14_full.jpg
The I finally settled on an exhaust I like and one that i cant smash. Flowmaster 40, no cat (I have hi flow im gonna install) full 2 1/2" pipe and a 12" long 3" tip.
http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/2039/exh1qj5.jpg
http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/6895/exh2dd1.jpg
http://img180.imageshack.us/img180/8250/exh3vr3.jpg
http://img226.imageshack.us/img226/3881/exh4sm5.jpg
I have done many more things to it, I just dont have many pics...

Installed the rear 4.10 LS axle tonight, took it for a test drive and it feels like a rocket compared to what it used to!!! It also got rid of the terrible drivetrain slop it had. I hope to get the front in by sunday but I dunno.
Only pic I got.
http://img170.imageshack.us/img170/9102/rearswapyl6.jpg

Well still havent got the damn 4.10 TTB in yet :banghead: Weathers been crappy on my days off and the days I work its been nice (like right now). Ive only ben able to do small projects. I pulled the crappy non a/c rad out and slapped in a good auto w/ac rad thats twice as big and flushed the cooling system, hopefully it wont get over 200* anymore up in the woods. I also pulled my grill, masked it and painted the center portion gloss black. It lookin like the ttb wont be in till after spring break is over because I work all but 3 days of it and the 3 days im not worin ill be in newport :banghead:
http://img503.imageshack.us/img503/8059/grillho2.jpg

My Lock-Right arrived today! Cant wait to put it in! Thanks Todd!
http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/4172/lockrightts8.jpg

Well as I pormised, the 4.10 ttb went in today and we managed to get the lockright in too, what a bitch!!! Had to swap in an open carrier to use it, had to grind down the ring gear to get the full crosspin in, the notched 4.10 crosspin wouldnt allow us to put the c-clips on with the lock right because it didnt allow the spacers to move inwards, so out came the dremel and in the went the stronger un-notched crosspin.
I took it for a quick drive, couldnt feel or hear it click, deffinalty pulls to one side after you let off and give it gas but its only for a second and according to the booklet its normal, deffinalty wants to go straight if ya give 'er gas while makin a sharp turn, all in all it seems pretty damn streetable, im impressed! Of course its dry right now, it could be another story when its wet...
Out with the old 3.45s, Took about an hour to remove, not bad...
http://img373.imageshack.us/img373/6594/345fo2.jpg
In with the 4.10s! took about 2 hours after swaping camber bushings, brake rotors and bearings.
http://img473.imageshack.us/img473/6057/410wj7.jpg
Dad grinding on the ring gear, note the tape everywhere to minimize metal shavings in the diff.
http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/250/grindtc6.jpg
Lock-Right in! Total time spent on the locker was about 8 hours! Who needs spider gears?!?!
http://img454.imageshack.us/img454/2045/lockersd9.jpg

I put the 4.0 radiator in today with some free time I had. I got the rad from Brian, its from the Danger Ranger.
Heres a pic comparing it to my old radiator from a 2.9 auto which is twice as thick as a 2.9 manual! So in short, the 4.0 auto rad is 4 times thicker than a 2.9 manual!
http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/5564/comparoym9.jpg
Heres it is installed, hopefully this means cool running for the 2.9.
http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/694/radac5.jpg

Picked this up from Joe (BRONCMAN) this morning, and I installed it before I went to work, its pretty stout and fits very well. I had to do some minor grinding at the end of the frame. Its also made a for a 2" body lift, so it sits up like it should and the gap is much less.
http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/2351/bumper3kf6.jpg

Well I finally grabbed a door from the parts rig and started cuting it down today for half doors. I didnt get too carried away but I took a good 8"s out if it, I just cut then folded it over and welded it. I then too some of that black plastic trm stuff and put it over the the area I cut so I dont cut myself ( I already cut my finger before I put it on, damnit). I also slapped on an extra flag mirror to keep it "legal". I think Ill paint em black when Im done or blue if I can find a close match to my paint in a rattle can.
http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/600/halfdoorrx5.jpg

Finished chopping the other door. Now I just need to get another thing of that plastic trim and some spray paint and they'll be ready to slap on for some wheelin. Not sure how Im gonna work around the fact that my doors have power windows and locks so trying to snake the wires through the fenders is going to be a bitch, maybe a coathanger would work?
http://img509.imageshack.us/img509/104/halfdoorsqg7.jpg

Here they are on the rig. They dont appear to be cut a whole lot but theres enough of a cut out to lean out just fine.
http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/7645/halfdoorsonoy2.jpg

Well I started work on this bad boy! I added 4" c channel to my Smittybilt push bar and ditched the stock bumper, still lots of work to do like add metal on the top, d-rings, finish the ends, ect. Im happy with it so far :thumby:
http://img71.imageshack.us/img71/1237/bumper1bh6.jpg
http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/5079/fbumper1zi7.jpg

I added some aluminum diamond plate to the top for now, not sure if Im gonna keep it or go with steel...
http://img186.imageshack.us/img186/7312/87432951zx1.jpg

Well I bought some d-rings today for it. I went down to the shop again after school today and started welding on it and reinforcing it and added the d-rings on. Only real thing left to do now is finish the ends and the front pie shaped piece that will blend the inner and outer pieces together. I like how my welds turned out, too much spatter but changing wire speed wouldnt solve the problem so I just kept welding, it seemed to have good penetration.
I used some square tubing to help reinforce the outer pieces.
http://img113.imageshack.us/img113/9499/fbumper6ov8.jpg
D-rings welded on.
http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/7333/fbumper7ww0.jpg
Heres a shot of the brace again.
http://img470.imageshack.us/img470/1431/fbumper8av4.jpg
Here it is installed.
http://img470.imageshack.us/img470/1117/fbumper9bm2.jpg

Well I did a lil more work today. Added the angled pieces that tie the ends into the center section and used a blending wheel to make it pretty smooth. I also capped off the ends of the c channel. I just need to beef up the mounts and get some bedlinder on it!
http://img161.imageshack.us/img161/8702/bumper10jj3.jpg

Thanks Pat! I plan on beefing it up soon before any major pulls happen. I bought some Duplicolor spray on bedliner today and sprayed it. I like the way it turned out! I still need to beef up the mounts soon but at least its protected from the weather now! I left the diamond plate bare, Im gonnaa see how I like it in the long run, if I end up not liking it Ill coat it too.
http://img184.imageshack.us/img184/3684/bumper11fa6.jpg
http://img235.imageshack.us/img235/879/bumper12zs6.jpg

Well I started work on the spare tire carrier. I plan to make a hi lift mount too and possibly a jerry can mount. I just need to cap the tubes, weld on the latch and bed liner it.
http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/8311/tirerack1hz1.jpg

[chico4554]

looks like a great buildup! seems like youre having fun with it too which is awsome.

[Hahnsb2]

Well the tire carrier is pretty much done now, its nothing fancy like the piece of art BRONCMAN made, I just needed somethin functional for now, I bed linered it and the bumper I got from BRONCMAN, the only tweeking it needs it that I need to cut the mount and extend it a couple inches so the tire fits without contacting the tubing, Once I get a chance that'll take all of 10 minutes. I still plan on making a hi lift mount but since I dont own a hi lift right now, Ill wait till that time comes.
http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/449/tirerack2gg6.jpg
http://img240.imageshack.us/img240/6146/tirerack3vp6.jpg

[Hahnsb2]

I figure I better update this... I took the shifter out yesterday and welded on the threaded end of a bolt to accept a Mack "Bulldog" shift knob my grandpa gave me, and I also added a piece of aluminum plate to the overhead push button 4x4 console (Dont have electric 4x4 anymore) to accept switches, I currently have my off road light switch and my reverse light switch in it so far. Sorry for no pics, my camera is messed up and my phone has been acting up lately and I threw it today cause it pissed me off and I ****ed it up more!

[josh-the-ranger]

awesome bumpers! i would advise a roll bar/cage. looks good!

[Hahnsb2]

awesome bumpers! i would advise a roll bar/cage. looks good!
Thanks! At this point I really think a cage is overkill... I'm trying to find a 4.10 d35 right now so I can have a locker up front but 4.10 d35s are rare...

[Hahnsb2]

Well this is way out-dated. My father bought a 90 4 banger 4x4 ranger which has a full 4.10 D35 which I will be trading him soon. My Aussie locker for it arrived today. Being locked front and rear is going to be epic :icon_thumby:
http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/2924/hpim0322qt5.jpg

[danger88ranger]

Sick dude, cant wait to see how it works

[Hahnsb2]

Well as some of you may know I picked up a 94 sploder sport with a blown M5OD for $400, I will be performing a 4.0 swap once the weather shapes up a bit. Tonight I scored a 4x4 M5OD for $250, supposedly rebuilt 20,000 miles ago and it even had the extension for the body lift I'll need. So right now I've got a 4.10 D35 with aussie locker, 4.0 and M5OD all set to be put in my B2. I started today by pulling apart the dash of the sploder and labeling all the wires as I go. Also found a sploder Chiltons under the seat so that may help me a bit with wiring if needed. And I already sold the cat off of it for $50.
http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/271/sploder1np9.jpg


Got the 4.0 out and its sitting in the shop. Rear of intake manifold leaks oil pretty good like my 2.9 does, may have to do something bout that.

http://img299.imageshack.us/img299/9978/rangertn1.jpg
This is my dads ranger that will be donating my it's 4.10 D35.

Also thinking about just swapping the 4.0 harness and leaving my dash and do some splicing.

[mjonesjr]

i can guarantee that that "Dana 35" is really a hybrid Dana 35/28. All 4 cylinder 4x4 Rangers had the hybrid. You might as well keep the Dana 28 in your truck, it has the same internals; if that Aussie is for a Dana 35, it won't fit in the Dana 28 carrier.

[Hahnsb2]

i can guarantee that that "Dana 35" is really a hybrid Dana 35/28. All 4 cylinder 4x4 Rangers had the hybrid. You might as well keep the Dana 28 in your truck, it has the same internals; if that Aussie is for a Dana 35, it won't fit in the Dana 28 carrier.
Tis not a hybrid, ribbed housing means full D35. And hybrid didn't start till 93. Thanks for trying to look out for me though :bye:

[LittleBigFoot]

Tis not a hybrid, ribbed housing means full D35. And hybrid didn't start till 93. Thanks for trying to look out for me though :bye:

OH snap!

[BlackBII]

hmm, lock rite in the rear and and aussie in the front, 2.9 and FM14suck, warn hubs, flowmaster 40.........

Its like deja vu, lol

Looks good man! Come to utah, and wheel!

[Hahnsb2]

D35 is in. Just waiting for the parts sploder with the manual 1354 to get here and I'll have 4wd.

D35 out and apart, notice mikly gear oil :eek:
http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/5114/hpim0417hc5.jpg
Beam pressure washed and wire wheeled.
http://img174.imageshack.us/img174/7323/hpim0420lk0.jpg
Letting the torch work alone on the radius arm bolts.
http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/8237/hpim0421vd1.jpg
Aussie in, notice the rusty spot on the carrier, I'm sure it has something to do with the mikly gear oil, I'm not worried though, my original 7.5 had rust halfway up the inside of the diff and the ring gear was all pitted when I got it but it never gave me any trouble.
http://img237.imageshack.us/img237/6777/hpim0424sf9.jpg
E clip eliminator spring.
http://img72.imageshack.us/img72/2224/hpim0426eq9.jpg
D35 in.
http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/4853/hpim0427ex8.jpg
Fawk you spider gears!
http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/9467/hpim0428ol3.jpg
Sticker
http://img161.imageshack.us/img161/1941/hpim0429fh1.jpg
Poser shot.
http://img108.imageshack.us/img108/4514/hpim0431gw0.jpg

[Sunk]

Man, I've been waiting to get my D35 in for weeks, I'm jealous! I'm just waiting to get it back from the shop doing the gears... Looks good though!

Any info on that spring you used for the e-clip eliminator?

[Hahnsb2]

Man, I've been waiting to get my D35 in for weeks, I'm jealous! I'm just waiting to get it back from the shop doing the gears... Looks good though!

Any info on that spring you used for the e-clip eliminator?
Thanks! It's nice to get this done finally, been looking for a damn 4.10 D35 for almost a year! The spring I picked up at Wilco Hardware/farm store here, It was 1 1/4" OD, biggest they had, I took pliers to it and worked it over to make it big enough, needs to be about 1 3/8" ID, worked pretty good, not the greatest fit right now but it pushes the axle in if I pull it out, I'll probably get some sort of collar on the shaft to prevent it from sliding. I deffinatly wasn't gonna put the e-clip in, would be a son of a bitch to replace that inner shaft if you had to pull the pig.

[Sunk]

Thanks. I think 4x4Junkie suggested using hoseclamps as a collar for the spring. Or you can put a smaller spring inside the splined part if you take weld the back of the female side to prevent from backing out.... if that doesn't work out for ya.

I thought about putting the clip back in since I've to break anything in the D28 yet, but since I'm stepping up to 33s and will be locked f/r I figure it'd be better not to...

[Hahnsb2]

Put the manual 1354 in today after work, it was 99* outside. I had to put on the small lever from the 1350 because I'm not using an M5OD yet and the one on it was bent for the M5OD linkage, then in low range the linkage hit the driveshaft yoke/cardan joint, and had to be heavily clearanced with a grinder.
I took her down on my lower property to test 4x4 and everything seems well, the Aussie is silent, you get some pull on the wheel when you turn that tries to straighten out but it's really not bad at all.
Only pic I got was me tightening the flange on the rear since it was loose, I put the yoke in the vice to keep it still. And yeah it appears the output seal leaks but whatever, I just wanna wheel.
http://img524.imageshack.us/img524/9738/hpim0432di1.jpg

[danger88ranger]

Lookin good :word:

[Hahnsb2]

4Wheel parts had everything 10% off so I went down to the store today, 34X10.5 LTBs, came to $600 even and that included the no questions asked warranty and shipping for the other 2 tires from seattle which should hit my house on wednesday. The front fenders are gonna take trimming.
http://img167.imageshack.us/img167/5066/ltbssk3.jpg

[danger88ranger]

4Wheel parts had everything 10% off so I went down to the store today, 34X10.5 LTBs, came to $600 even and that included the no questions asked warranty and shipping for the other 2 tires from seattle which should hit my house on wednesday. The front fenders are gonna take trimming.
http://img167.imageshack.us/img167/5066/ltbssk3.jpg

Your going to love those tires, best mod i ever did to my truck was my swampers :headbang:

[AngloSaxon]

Very nice work!

[Hahnsb2]

Thanks

After measuring things yesterday, at full stuff against the bump stops I'll have 1.5" between the top of the tire and fender, it looks like I only need to cut the forward and rear openings on the front fenders, possibly on the rear too but it's hard to say without getting them on.
Just a comparison. FWIW my 31s are 29" and the 34s are a hair over 32"...
http://img65.imageshack.us/img65/8638/ltb2hq4.jpg

[Thighman]

not sure why they dont just call them 33s? Cuz that is what they are

[Boggin-B-Series]

man i love that build!

[Hahnsb2]

That dickbag I was getting wheels from totally flaked, fawk people on craigslist with a rusty spoon... I ended up using the wheels from my dads ranger like I was originally going to, it just took a lot more work since he wanted the 5 spoke wheels from one of the sploder parts rigs but he wanted the new tires from another sploder parts rig, so it took a shit ton of mounting and dismounting (like 12 dismounts and 8 mounts), I bought a tire mounter/dismounter from harbor freight for $40, actually worked really well, much better than by hand with pry bars. By the time I finished I didn't have time to trim fenders but I put em on one side to see what they'd look like and then just on the rear for a drive to check out my gearing, which actually isn't too bad, much better than when I had 3.45s and 31s, I hardly noticed much difference and 5th is still usable... The really aren't any noisier than my current tires either but then again I only had the rears on. My measurments turned out to be true, only have to trim the forward and rear openings on the front fenders, rears are close but should be fine.
I'm glad I went with 34s, the 33x13.50s were too wide, the 31x11.5s are just too short and these look just right and the price was right too.
http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/1550/ltb3go3.jpg
http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/308/ltb4lp0.jpg

[mkpecor]

the only swomps that are what size they say are= truxes , iroks , tsl , ssr , boggers. the ltb is 33.6'' so in my book its a 34''.

[Hahnsb2]

Fender trimmage. Just like I thought, only had to trim the forward and rear openings on the front, the rears have like 1/2" of clearence on either side of the tires when stuffed. They don't even hit the radius arms at full lock on the front :D . I want to extend the bumper a bit to fill in the spot where I cut.
http://img136.imageshack.us/img136/411/ltb5wc4.jpg
http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/8188/ltb6yh3.jpg

[Loanranger]

the only swomps that are what size they say are= truxes , iroks , tsl , ssr , boggers. the ltb is 33.6'' so in my book its a 34''.

33 boggers are only 31.5, and thats at 50 psi, run them at 10-15, and you're looking at around 30-30.5 inches. :icon_confused:

The 34s with 5 pounds only measure in at 31.5, but they are a damn good tire. Nice and soft compound, and reach out and grab anything available.

[Loanranger]

Fender trimmage. Just like I thought, only had to trim the forward and rear openings on the front, the rears have like 1/2" of clearence on either side of the tires when stuffed. They don't even hit the radius arms at full lock on the front :D . I want to extend the bumper a bit to fill in the spot where I cut.
http://img136.imageshack.us/img136/411/ltb5wc4.jpg
http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/8188/ltb6yh3.jpg

You may want to trim a little bit more from the rear if you only have a half inch, they'll expand when you spin them, and if you're at full stuff spinning, they'll gouge pretty easy. I did this with one of the rear swampers on my ranger.

[danger88ranger]

The tires will most likely rub on the bottom 1 1/2 inches of the fender. I know i had the same problem with mine, how wide are you rims?

[Hahnsb2]

The tires will most likely rub on the bottom 1 1/2 inches of the fender. I know i had the same problem with mine, how wide are you rims?
Where will they rub now?? I've flexed it out and no rub anywhere. They're 7" rims.

Thanks for the tip Loanranger, I don't really see myself spinning them at full stuff but I'll keep it in mind!

[Loanranger]

Where will they rub now?? I've flexed it out and no rub anywhere. They're 7" rims.

Thanks for the tip Loanranger, I don't really see myself spinning them at full stuff but I'll keep it in mind!

No problem man, I know how it feels to lay down cash on some tires, and then gouge them up. It sucks. :pissedoff: Those look really good on your rig, and I'm sure you'll love the traction. I've got the same tires on Fordzuki, and ran them at 3-5 pounds for the first few trips out, then once the sidewalls started flexing, I ran them up to 10 pounds. 10 lbs seems to be about the right pressure to keep your diff clearance, but still let the tires wrap around rocks and stuff. This is on a 1500 lb rig though, so you might want to go for 12 or a little more once the sidewalls break in.

[dogboy]

No problem man, I know how it feels to lay down cash on some tires, and then gouge them up. It sucks. :pissedoff: Those look really good on your rig, and I'm sure you'll love the traction. I've got the same tires on Fordzuki, and ran them at 3-5 pounds for the first few trips out, then once the sidewalls started flexing, I ran them up to 10 pounds. 10 lbs seems to be about the right pressure to keep your diff clearance, but still let the tires wrap around rocks and stuff. This is on a 1500 lb rig though, so you might want to go for 12 or a little more once the sidewalls break in.



Hell, with my 33" procomp, Sombody let all the air out of them at my school (don't you hate punks?...) and there was maybe 2 psi in them and it hardly looked like they were low... I'm not joking either. I didn't notice it untill I got home (only a mile from school to my house at 25mph)

I need onboard air, it would be so nice to air down the tires and or fill a flat etc. Sounds like a summer project!

[danger88ranger]

Where will they rub now?? I've flexed it out and no rub anywhere. They're 7" rims.

Thanks for the tip Loanranger, I don't really see myself spinning them at full stuff but I'll keep it in mind!

My bad, i didn't take into consideration you had 7" rims, the 2.9 still have power?

[Hahnsb2]

the 2.9 still have power?
Nah, it's a pig with the 34s.
I bought a Lincoln MIG welder last week. I'm reworking my front bumper to accept my Warn winch. I also plan on sliders too.

[Hahnsb2]

Got my winch mounted up. Needs more welds on the back side but I ran outta wire. I also added large mounting plates that bolt to the side of the frame rails instead of the wimpy tabs that bolt in the stock location.
http://img295.imageshack.us/img295/128/hpim0461aq8.jpg
My welder.
http://img398.imageshack.us/img398/8744/hpim0460ij7.jpg

[Loanranger]

Looks good. :icon_thumby: I'm thinking I'll probably do something like that to the sides of my dads sometime soon. Just built the winch cradle for now, but I've always liked that style of bumper.

[rickcdewitt]

looks good,how much did the front squat?

[Hahnsb2]

I don't think it really made it squat hardly at all, I'd guess the winch weighs less than 70LBs, but man the winch combined with the bumper is one heavy SOB to lift in place. My camber was a hair positive, if anything it helped with that.

[rickcdewitt]

the stiff stock springs are good for something i guess,now we both need to work on getting some good recovery pics with the swampers on:icon_cheers:

[Hahnsb2]

I've got 3" duff brackets and coils for up front but those will prolly wait a while. I hooked up the winch and spooled the cable out and respooled it all nice and neat so no more birds nest shit.

[danger88ranger]

I've got 3" duff brackets and coils for up front but those will prolly wait a while.

I'm thinking a look alike of stumpy?:icon_idea:

[Hahnsb2]

Pulled the bumper off yesterday and got all the welding on the back side finished up and added light tabs to the top tube.
http://img241.imageshack.us/img241/8249/lightsao4.jpg

[compleckz]

looks great

[dangeranger01]

Looking good man. Keep up the good work.

[Hahnsb2]

I bought some FelPro intake manifold and valve cover gaskets for the 4.0 before I put it in, hopefully get started on the swap next weekend!
I bought myself a HiLift. Here's a pic of testing it out.
http://img56.imageshack.us/img56/5964/hpim0475xs9.jpg
Here's how it's "mounted", untill I build a new rear tire gate, I was never really happy with the one I built (mainly the pivot part), it'll have a mount for the hi lift and a jerry can.
http://img512.imageshack.us/img512/8332/hpim0477mw0.jpg
Random flex pic.
http://img361.imageshack.us/img361/9147/hpim0474mn0.jpg

[Boggin-B-Series]

Awesome build you got goin on


also, you got a 4X4 with a 3" BL and 34's,
I got a 4X2 with a 3" BL
and since 4X2 is approximetly 3" shorter than 4X4,
My truck is approximetly your 4X4's stock height,
so if i added another 3" suspension lift
(seems another 3" BL would make 6" bl and would be just dangerous)
if i added another 3" susp lift i could fit 34's?
awesome!

:threadjacked:

[Hahnsb2]

Awesome build you got goin on


also, you got a 4X4 with a 3" BL and 34's,
I got a 4X2 with a 3" BL
and since 4X2 is approximetly 3" shorter than 4X4,
My truck is approximetly your 4X4's stock height,
so if i added another 3" suspension lift
(seems another 3" BL would make 6" bl and would be just dangerous)
if i added another 3" susp lift i could fit 34's?
awesome!

:threadjacked:
Pretty much, you'll still need some fender trimming though.

[Hahnsb2]

Well, Loanranger, I did manage to cut up one of my tires... But not from spinning at full stuff.

Also I bought a 4.56 D35 which should be here within a week. Now I need to find a 4.56 8.8...

Well, a new LTB arrived today. When I put them on and test flexed it, I only flexed it one way, the rear had a bit of clearance when stuffed in the passenger side. Being the mild jackass I am, I was fine with it and did no further testing. A couple weekends ago I took the B2 out on a trail with a couple friends for a just small shakedown run. Apparently there wasn't as much room in the drivers rear wheel well, so every time it stuffed, it cut up the tire, I figured since they aren't too expensive I'd buy another one and use the cut up one as a fullsize spare.
New
http://img234.imageshack.us/img234/9373/ltb6ee6.jpg
Damage (a couple of the outer lugs(not pictured) were tore up pretty bad.
http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/6813/ltb7gv7.jpg
Tire changer from harbor freight, for $40 it's an awesome tool I'll never go without again.
http://img512.imageshack.us/img512/4420/ltb8gx4.jpg

[rickcdewitt]

yo hahn,what do those measure out to?

[Hahnsb2]

About 32.5. Seems like all tires run short though, my Wildcat 31s measued that much short and so do my friends 31" BFGs.

[rickcdewitt]

yeah i think all my 33's so far were 31-31.5"

[nick6053]

sweet build i would like to know if the ac mod was just like in the tech library or did you do it different?

[Hahnsb2]

I just put in the AC pump (My rig had ac from factory but pump was gone when I got it), I hooked a hose and a pressure switch from an air compressor and wired it into the same place the original AC line pressure switch was to shut it off at 130 PSI and turn it on at 90 PSI.

[Hahnsb2]

Well finally started my 4.0 swap. 2.9, tranny and t-case are already pulled out, start on cleaning up the engine bay tomorrow and slinging the 4.0 in.

[rickcdewitt]

so how are you going to splice on your first gen?

splice the pass. side cpu harness into the b2?

[Hahnsb2]

I'm not exactly sure yet but the goal is make the engine harness stand alone and adapt the 2ng gen charging system to my 1st gen charging system..

[rickcdewitt]

the 4.0 alt. harness is a cake walk,but the rest might be fun:fie:.have you seen the factory EVTM manuals?one for each truck will be the best thing you can do for the swap.:icon_thumby:

[Hahnsb2]

I've got a B2 Haynes and sploder Chiltons that was in my parts sploder when I got it. I've got the 4.0 harness and computer in, the more I'm looking at it it looks like it may be easier than I thought. I'm gonna spend the rest of the day going over wiring stuff, and buy a few parts like a slave, fluids, t-case output seal, exhaust flange gasket and a t-stat and probably drop the 4.0 in tomorrow. The 1 wire alternator looks simple. Speed sensor is dead simple. Basically setting up the ignition will be the harder part. I'm not worried about any dash gauges except maybe my tach, I've got mechanical temp and oil and vacuum already, I'll probably add a ammeter or voltage gauge.

[Hahnsb2]

Got the 4.0 dropped down in last night before I came in, going to start the wiring today, put the tranny/t-case in tomorrow when my dad gets back from the coast. Already sold my 2.9 yesterday :D

[88ranger2.95sp]

I've got that same tire machine. Works awesome.

Rob

[Hahnsb2]

Yeah, they're a good deal.

Sweetness, making progress on the wiring. Ignition is wired so the coil is getting power with the key on, I still need to wire the fuel pump and computer relays, and the starter, then it should run. Also need to figure out what I'm going to do for fuel lines, I think I can use the line from the filter forward from the sploder, not sure about a return yet. I'm also making wiring pig-tails from the original 2.9 harness and sploder power ditribution harness so I havn't had to splice a single wire on the 4.0 engine harness and shouldn't have to.

[Hahnsb2]

Most of the wiring is done, only need to wire in the fuel pumps (having touble locating the wires right now since my B2 hayne manual doesn't show anything for the B2 fuel pump wiring) and hook up the fuel lines and it will run! I'm really surprised on how easy the wiring is for this swap considering I left my original B2 harness and dash, it was just really intimidating to look at the pile of wires for the engine harness. Also got the M5OD and y-pipe in yesterday.

Not much to look at but a messy engine bay and some wiring books right now. After it's up and running I really want to take my time and clean up all the wiring and make it look good, luckily there isn't much wiring to cover up. Also the charge indicator light (I have a tach dash so no ammeter) is hooked up and works, which I'm happy about because it let me know in the past when my alternator took a dump. Unsure if my tach will work... There's so many little details left to do like the cooling system, oil pressure line, t-case, driveshafts, shift linkage, floor plate, shift boots, fluids, bleed clutch, exhaust but there's no reason why it shouldn't be mostly wrapped up by this weekend. This picture was taken sunday I think.
http://img356.imageshack.us/img356/9896/40xk7.jpg

[Sunk]

Awesome! I'm a little jealous....

[Dishtowel]

Fuel pump connector *should* look like this. Should be just under the brake fluid reservoir on the engine side of the frame. I am 80% positive this connector is the 'big power' (or 'switched power) from the relay going to the fuel pump.
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc163/Dishtowel86/P4190393s.jpg

Looks good man, I hope you set up gremlin traps when you where doing this to keep the gremlins from getting into/onto Helga. Gremlins are a terrible thing. Best of luck!

[Hahnsb2]

I really hope the 4.0 is worth all this work, just by pure numbers it kills the 2.9 in torque, can't wait to drive it and I'm curious what my fuel mialge will do since I drove my 2.9 like a rented mule to make it go anywhere (I seriously was super hard on it the last year or so, amazing I got the milage I did), never thought I'd actually do an engine swap other than using another 2.9 but really, the wiring isn't bad at all if you can read the diagrams. So officially now none of my original drivetrain is in left in my rig except the rear carrier, before the 4.0 swap only my engine was the only thing I hadn't swapped. If you ever do a 4.0 swap, deffinatly get a running donor, I'd hate to have to hunt down all these little random parts. I've got somewhere around $350 in my swap including the tranny, and I've sold hardly anything of the donor splodor yet, also my old tranny is for sale so that will help too.

EDIT: Thanks Dishtowel!
Gremlins shouldn't show up, all but a couple wires that I'm splicing and adding length to are being done with the same color coded wire taken from the power distribution and 2.9 harness for easy tracing in the event something does show up.

[Sunk]

Yeah, the 4.0 is a sweet motor. I'm pretty sure the 4.0 in my buddy's 94 Ext. cab mandles the 33s with 3.73s better than my 2.9 handles my 31s with 4.56s. He does get 13 MPG though...

[Hahnsb2]

Spent the evening running the fuel pump power (it ended up being a wierd round connector Dishtowel), change engine oil/filter, run fuel lines, hook up cooling system and add water...

It's alive!!! I'd like to say first try but after cranking the first time I realized the plug wire order was wrong, then she fired right up! Still have a shit ton of work to do but it does run!!!

[Dishtowel]

WOOTWOOT, good work man!

I unfortunately did f'all tonight due to work draining me dry. boooo work. The end is in sight for you!

[Loanranger]

Is it done yet?






































What about now?















































What about now?






































Haha JK, I gotta give you props for taking on this kindof a project. The wiring would be what would slow me down. Hope to see you out on the trails soon. :icon_cheers:

[Hahnsb2]

Thanks guys. Man the wiring looked so intimidating at first but really I think most people could handle this project, the chiltons book for the explorer has an awesome wiring diagram for the 4.0 and I never did cut/splice any of the 4.0 harness or B2 harness and I kept my original dash which saved a lot of work, which is really cool to me. I have this awesome sense of accomplishment I haven't felt from working on any other part of my B2 before. Tomorrow should pretty much complete it and It might be ready to drive it to work on friday, I had planned on 2 weeks of wiring! I need to go back and replace some heater hoses, they're kinda dry, I'm sure my water pump will probably die soon too.

[rickcdewitt]

Thanks guys. Man the wiring looked so intimidating at first but really I think most people could handle this project.its a lot different once you're looking down the other end of the barrel eh?
is your 8.8 open or L/S?my truck felt like a hot rod when it was an open legger- grabbing second and third gear on pavement:D

[CopyKat]

You'll love it. I can't almost guarantee it!

[BlackBII]

Killer man!!

I did a 4.0 swap on an 89 BII I had, it actually got better mileage afterwards....

[CopyKat]

Killer man!!

I did a 4.0 swap on an 89 BII I had, it actually got better mileage afterwards....

33's with 3.73 and the 5 speed I can average 21 on the highway.

[BlackBII]

33's with 3.73 and the 5 speed I can average 21 on the highway.

That's about what I was getting, I had 3.27's and 31's at the time, around 20-21 highway

[rickcdewitt]

i haven't used a tank of gas on the open road yet but i've managed 18mpg.

[Hahnsb2]

its a lot different once you're looking down the other end of the barrel eh?
is your 8.8 open or L/S?my truck felt like a hot rod when it was an open legger- grabbing second and third gear on pavement:D
Rear 7.5 locked for now, need to find a 4.56 geared 8.8 to match my other pig. I imagine it wont have any problems lighting up both tires, wet pavement may be intersesting :D Curious how the 7.5 will hold up with my 34s off-road.

[Hahnsb2]

Worked my ****in ass off after work today to make it driveable, get everything done and the cock sucking clutch wont stay bled. MC is 4 months old, slave is brand ****ing new, I'm so ****ing pissed! I'm not going to be happy if I have to pull that tranny! I've about ****ing had it with this bullshit hydraulic clutch, I had nothing but ****in problems the first time I swapped my tranny.

[Boggin-B-Series]

sick truck man, I love it, and your doing some really good work there, keep it up,

oh yea, Im always watching your vids on youtube, lol, you got me wanting a Flowmaster now, haha

[Hahnsb2]

Thanks.

Still having problems with the clutch, my dads crawled under it and done some looking around, doesn't see the slave fading at all or any leaks, just wont bleed all the way. It's barely able to go in gear right now but I've driven it a little bit and man it kills the 2.9, not quite as much as I was expecting but but I'm not even sure if it's running right and my tach is waaay off too. Just from my little time driving it I'll say I'll pick up some MPG, don't have to work it nearly as hard as the 2.9. The sound of an explorer starting up is going to take a little getting used to :D

[engdept]

wait till you put those 4.56 gears in it, then it wills scream with the 32's!

[crazy horse]

Ew! I'm trying to stay focused. Very Nice build. but, what is that sticking out of your garage. :drool:


http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/1550/ltb3go3.jpg

[Hahnsb2]

69 RoadRunner Big Bad Green (AMC color), Dad's work in progress, 383 big block, 727 auto, LS rear. Outside is mostly done, just the interior needs to be finished.

On a side note I'm loving this 4.0, just want this damn clutch bled all the way so I can drive it worth a damn though.

[Boggin-B-Series]

Your truck will deffinetly be my inspiration only flat black, do you plan on fender trimming any time soon?

[Hahnsb2]

The fronts have already been trimmed, couldn't even steer with 34s without them hitting badly. Rears still need a small touch of trimming.

So driving in the rain earlier (Because that's what washington is like in august :rolleyes: ) going around corners just putting along in 2nd about 1500 RPMs, slowly roll the throttle and it's spinning both tires and I'm goin sideways, took everything the 2.9 had to break em loose in 1st, 4.0 does it without thinking twice in 2nd and this tranny is higher geared. Here's a pic under the hood, still some wiring to organize but overall it's 98% done.
http://img82.imageshack.us/img82/3226/402jl6.jpg

[Mechanickid]

looks shweet! I wish explorers were as easy to mod a 1st gen bronco ii / rangers

[Hahnsb2]

Well I dunno about that. You have the luxury of having all the good parts on your sploder already. After working on my sploder parts rig though I deffinatly prefer my B2 for various reasons, even if I have to spend a lot of time turning my rig into an essentialy glorfied sploder sport.

[84projectFORD]

The fronts have already been trimmed, couldn't even steer with 34s without them hitting badly. Rears still need a small touch of trimming.

So driving in the rain earlier (Because that's what washington is like in august :rolleyes: ) going around corners just putting along in 2nd about 1500 RPMs, slowly roll the throttle and it's spinning both tires and I'm goin sideways, took everything the 2.9 had to break em loose in 1st, 4.0 does it without thinking twice in 2nd and this tranny is higher geared. Here's a pic under the hood, still some wiring to organize but overall it's 98% done.
http://img82.imageshack.us/img82/3226/402jl6.jpg


very nice. i hope my 84 turn out like that, lots more work though due to fuel lines and fuel pump, little more wiring, and teh adition of a m50d w/ a 8.8

[Boggin-B-Series]

The fronts have already been trimmed, couldn't even steer with 34s without them hitting badly. Rears still need a small touch of trimming.

So driving in the rain earlier (Because that's what washington is like in august :rolleyes: ) going around corners just putting along in 2nd about 1500 RPMs, slowly roll the throttle and it's spinning both tires and I'm goin sideways, took everything the 2.9 had to break em loose in 1st, 4.0 does it without thinking twice in 2nd and this tranny is higher geared. Here's a pic under the hood, still some wiring to organize but overall it's 98% done.
http://img82.imageshack.us/img82/3226/402jl6.jpg


looks very sweet, congrats!

[Hahnsb2]

Drove to Hillsboro for my monday delivery today without any problems, nice to have power to cruise, hard to train myself to stop downshifting when I don't need to, it pulls most hills in 5th. Worked on covering up most of the wires and it's lookin a lot cleaner under the hood. Also took care of a couple exhaust leaks, I just can't stand exhaust leaks. Pic's a little dark but as you can see the wires are wrapped up nice and tidy.
http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/8903/wiregi0.jpg
Here's a glimpse of what's to come. 3" JD lift, home made extended arms I got from 84EB on B2.org for a pretty cheap (I'll beef em up a little since I've got a welder/time) and a 4.56 D35 pig.
http://img53.imageshack.us/img53/6774/liftpv1.jpg

[rickcdewitt]

hard to train myself to stop downshifting when I don't need to, it pulls most hills in 5th. 4.56......
4.56 will probably seem too low geared.cruising in 5th at 55 to get a reasonable rpm sucks.your trucks not going to like 65 or more.but oh well thats the tradeoff.

make sure you check the clearance on the drop bracket for the driver side to the steering linkage while turned. the reinforcement that goes forward to a non stock bolt hole hit the linkage at full stuff on my truck before i relieved it with a grinder(the tab that goes out of the pic to the right

[BlackBII]

Yeah, 4.56 on the highway kinda sucks, depending on your tire size of course..
You running 34"s?

I had 33's and 4.56 and a FM146, I was at nearly 3000rpm at 65-70mph or so(My speedo was way off, I was going off my girlfriends car riding next to me) and with a 2.9, that worked out pretty well, with the 4.0, I would think 34" and 4.56 should work quite nice at 65 or so

[rickcdewitt]

yeah that is if those 34" tires see much highway use. cheap 33" at's are what i run around on when the swamps aren't on.

now my isuzu p-u with factory 4.55's, 31's, and a sub-100 hp 4 wheezer feels fine at 70

[BlackBII]

yeah that is if those 34" tires see much highway use. cheap 33" at's are what i run around on when the swamps aren't on.

Depends on if he listens to radio or not, when I was running boggers on the highway, the only thing I could hear was the jets flying overhead when passing the air base ;missingteeth;

[rickcdewitt]

Depends on if he listens to radio or not, when I was running boggers on the highway, the only thing I could hear was the jets flying overhead when passing the air base ;missingteeth;are you sure YOU weren't the bomber coming in for landing? LOL. thats what my ranger sounds like with the boggers on.i let a buddy go on a beer run with it and was surprised how loud it is coming in for a landing,er pulling up i mean. and yeah my stock stereo with 1.5 speakers working can't be heard,haha.

[Hahnsb2]

I'll be running 33s on the street. According to my calculations I'll be right around 2700 RPMs at 70, that's assuming they measure 1.5" short I'll try to find the tallest 33s I can.. 65 drops it to 2500, a better spot for a 4.0, I like to do 65-70 on the freeway so it should be alright. It drops it another 100 RPMs at the same speeds with 34s on. With my 31s and 4.10s I'm at 2600 RPMs at 70.

[rickcdewitt]

i'm at 2500rpm at 65 in overdrive,with 4.10 and 33's(31.5")

[engdept]

FYI, Maurice (mjones) '97 Ranger with the 4.0, M50D-R1, 4.56's, and 35's (actually 34.7) ran at about 2500 rpm at 75 mph. He got around 18 mph on the highway with that configuration.

Looks like it is coming together.

[Hahnsb2]

Boxed radius arm with 3/16 plate.
http://img258.imageshack.us/img258/508/ralx4.jpg

[danger88ranger]

Nice work.

[Dishtowel]

I like the beef man.

I worry about boxing stuff like that because: if you weld it 99.999% closed and get stuck in a puddle/swamp it will fill with water then when JackFrost comes to visit he bursts things. IF you drill a drain hole then earth/moss/corruption gets in and never seems to want to get out. These things may not apply to you, but I know they apply to me.

[Hahnsb2]

Nah the front is still open on the arms. Probably gonna spend the whole weekend fabbing shit with my buddy since labor day means everyone is everywhere and I want to kill the general public on normal days as it is. Going to attempt to re-make my tire carrier, got a TIB spindle and rotor I plan to modify for the pivot and we're prolly gonna make a bumper for his XJ.

[Hahnsb2]

Been too busy working on my friend's junk, like this bumper we (mostly me) made for his Heep, bottom tube is temporary until he gets a winch and we weld in a winch plate.
http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/220/heepof1.jpg
http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/5820/heepbmc0.jpg
Started work on some sliders (you can see some of the 2x2" 3/16 wall tubing leaning on my rig) but really haven't had time to work on them since building the heep bumper and now in the middle of building a bumper on another friends toyota.

[Hahnsb2]

Well I've decided to go ahead and regear a 31 spline 8.8 I have laying around since I cant find any with 4.56s local. I've already ordered an Aussie for it since they go out of stock ofter figured I'd better do it now. I've found package deals on Yukon 4.56s with master install kit for $230 as well which I don't think is half bad, I'll also stick in a crush sleeve eliminator while I'm at it. Just need a few tools and this should be an interesting experience.

[Ranger44]

Awesome!

[fordwheelinman]

what comprises this crush sleeve eliminator you speak off???

[Hahnsb2]

I believe it's just a solid spacer.

Started work on my sliders agian yesterday, got the passenger side mounted up today, I will be running one more brace down to the bottom of the frame rail and it will use the same holes as the t-case skid plate. The main mounts bolt to the body mounts on the frame. The drivers side will be a bit more tricky because of the parking brake cable. The last picture it's hanging down a bit further than it it normally does because the bolts werent tight. They stick out a bit further than I anticipated but it'll give a bit more protection from things from the side and it'll be easier to get a hi lift on and you can stand on em as well.

http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/3750/slider1kl1.jpg
http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/9521/slider2zs7.jpg
http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/7466/slider3yk3.jpg

[rickcdewitt]

looking good,
yeah the eliminator is a solid spacer and some shims.

on a side note i thought it was funny i used my left over tiny shims for the eliminator on my brothers d30 when we set it up.the 4.56 R&P and bearings are tiny in those axles

[Hahnsb2]

Drivers slider mounted up. Need to do the middle mounts for triangulation, and paint em and they should be good to go. Also need to weld up a couple brackets for the E brake cable, should have done it when I did the body lift in the first place anyways.
http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/2205/slider4xm0.jpg

[Todd]

lookin good man. Sliders are one thing thats on my list. Made a bling set for the g/f's jeep this summer. Now I just got to get around to making my own.

[twitch]

hey by any chance do you have any 4.10 gears you could sell me after you upgrade?

[Hahnsb2]

Possibly my 7.5 (minus the locker) if non of my friends want it.

[fordwheelinman]

Thought you got lost todd

[odie1969]

sweet I really like that style. Any chance you can show how they bolt up. and what bracket you used. thanks

[twitch]

ok just send me a message or ill send you one and ask once its out alright, thanks.

[Hahnsb2]

Another bumper down, built for my friend's yota.
http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/2026/yotass6.jpg

Fixed a couple things on the B2 like the windshield motor that was slowly taking a dump on me for the last year, and my license plate light wires shorted out and popped the fuse for my tail lights and dash lights so I had to track that down.
Maybe finish up the sliders this weekend.

[engdept]

Your getting pretty good at building bumpers.

[Hahnsb2]

Thanks, already have another person who wants one built for their XJ. Here's a slightly better view of the yota bumper.
http://img296.imageshack.us/img296/9122/yota2iu2.jpg

[Dishtowel]

Thanks, already have another person who wants one built for their XJ. Here's a slightly better view of the yota bumper.
http://img296.imageshack.us/img296/9122/yota2iu2.jpg

You do real nice work man, but... theres no winch... He needs a winch.

[danger88ranger]

You do real nice work man, but... theres no winch... He needs a winch.

:agree:

[Hahnsb2]

Thanks. He's not much into wheeling yet but if that time comes I'm sure I can "winchify" it for him, the main problem is that he has a 3" BL and the stock bumper and lift brackets were really flimsy. That XJ bumper a couple pages back however now has a winch plate in it and is just waiting on a winch. And damn this rain! I want to work on my rig!
Heres what it looked like with stock bumper and brushgaurd (which was cut up and used in the new bumper).
http://a184.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/58/l_cfb085d4190e93000ce135a3a12e7667.jpg

[Hahnsb2]

Thinking of buying a set of these in 33x10.50 this saturday at 4WP, they're supposedly having a sale on saturday. BFG is the only company I know of that makes a 33x10.50, the KM2s aren't much more than the regular MTs and I've heard nothing but great things about them.
http://www.4wheelparts.com/aux_incl/images.ashx?i=MudTerrainTAKM2.jpg&partNo=BFG&w=380

[Maverick]

LTB's worn out already?

[Hahnsb2]

No-no, I use the LTBs off-road only (still run 31s on the street), I'm adding 3" of lift and need 33s to fill the space and I'm regearing to 4.56 as well and I don't think the 4.0 will like 4.56s and 31s.

[Sunk]

Yeah my 2.9 doesn't even like the 4.56s with 31s on the highway. If I decide I like the truck next long break I have it'll get 32s... along with another engine and other stuff. Lol.


Those KM2s look a lot like the Krawlers and I've heard they are absolute crap in the snow, so keep that in mind if you like snow wheeling I guess... Well maybe not if you'll still have the LTBs.

[Hahnsb2]

Well, MTs in general aren't the best in snow im my experience, siping is needed for good snow and ice traction and most MTs lack it. I'll probably cheap out anyways and get regular MTs, I know they last well, the KM2's longevity is still kind of an unknown.

[mjonesjr]

Yeah my 2.9 doesn't even like the 4.56s with 31s on the highway. If I decide I like the truck next long break I have it'll get 32s... along with another engine and other stuff. Lol.
My 2.9 with 4.56 gears and 31's isn't all that bad on the highway. I consistently get about 18 mpg on the highway with that combo.

I have heard good things about the KM2's.

[Hahnsb2]

Ended up getting 33x10.50 BFG MTs (original design), coming from Cali, should be on my doorstep thursday.
Got my Belltech shackles in the mail along with my drop pitman arm, put the shackles on, rear flex increased quite a bit. Articulation ramp we built out of some scrap steel we had laying around. 29" vertical travel or 900 RTI on a 20* ramp.
http://img112.imageshack.us/img112/3160/flex1ag0.jpg
http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/3851/flex2am7.jpg
http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/7018/flex3il9.jpg
http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/81/flex4ih2.jpg
http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/9148/flex5sp0.jpg

[Hahnsb2]

Tires came wednesday, mounted them yesterday but didn't have my camera or phone till after dark. 33x10.50 BFG MTs. Since I mounted them myself they aren't balanced, had it up to 65 and no vibes though. They are just as tall as my 34s which will be nice when I get my 4.56s in, it'll be just barely lower geared than with 4.10s and 31s.
http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/9826/33spz7.jpg

[danger88ranger]

So Hahns what does that 4.0 sound like with your exhaust on it?

[Hahnsb2]

So Hahns what does that 4.0 sound like with your exhaust on it?
Funny you should ask, I just uploaded a video. Sounds about the same, a little quieter and deeper than the 2.9.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-vgdIYBm34I

[danger88ranger]

Funny you should ask, I just uploaded a video. Sounds about the same, a little quieter and deeper than the 2.9.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-vgdIYBm34I


I like!

[Loanranger]

Funny you should ask, I just uploaded a video. Sounds about the same, a little quieter and deeper than the 2.9.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-vgdIYBm34I

good sound. I take it your tach isn't quite right though? :huh:

[Hahnsb2]

good sound. I take it your tach isn't quite right though? :huh:
Nah it's way off, wasn't designed to work with the EDIS, wish I could figure out how to make it read correctly, I'll probably bite the bullet and buy an aftermarket tach.

[Hahnsb2]

Spent yesterday after work pulling the 8.8 out of my parts sploder, man I forget how nice it is to work on my B2 without swaybars, that rear bar was a bitch and the e-brake cable on those sploders is just an abortion. Today I loaded it in my dads ranger and brought it up to the shop and only had time to pull the cover off and remove the crosspin bolt, which is the 4th or 5th 8.8 or 7.5 I've had no trouble with removing the crosspin bolt like everyone seems to have :dunno: Gears should be here soon as well.
Winching it out of shard stain (name bestowed upon my dads ranger by my nice friends). It's a lot heavier than it looks.
http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/2035/88ik3.jpg

[mjonesjr]

nice!

[Hahnsb2]

Aftermath from today. Tore the 8.8 down, I think I'm not going to change the carrier bearings, they seem to be in good shape, the shafts are free from any grooves from where the bearings contact which seems like a problem for these axles, I'm going to change the seals but I'm undecided about changing the axle bearings.
http://img260.imageshack.us/img260/1563/88wh9.jpg

[mjonesjr]

Can't wait to see it under your ride.

[Hahnsb2]

Schwing. Gears and install kit as well as crush sleeve eliminator arrived today, I'm busy tomorrow but maybe sunday I'll get some of the basic things put together, I still need to pick up calipers, in/lb beam tq wrench and a dial indicator so I'm pissing into the wind till I pick them up. Just like the 4.0 swap at first I was pretty unsure but the closer I get I think I can handle this. I'm also gonna pick up a riddler diff cover, here's a video of them testing it, $99 shipped to boot. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0G5upBGBej0
http://img389.imageshack.us/img389/4880/gearzoe9.jpg

[mjonesjr]

What is a crush sleeve eliminator?

[Hahnsb2]

It's a solid spacer with shims that replaces the crush sleeve that you dial in to the correct thickness so you dont have to crank out like 400ft/lbs to crush the crush sleeve to obtain proper pinion bearing pre-load. And if you go too far with a crush sleeve you have to replace it and start over.

[86ford]

What is a crush sleeve eliminator?

a washer. only reason i know the application of the crush sleeve eliminator is that its one of the biggest weaknesses in toyota axles. the crush sleeve goes in the pinion assembly ( i dont know were i have never set up gears). they are known for causing to much slop in the R&P causing catastrophic failure.

86

[Sunk]

Spent yesterday after work pulling the 8.8 out of my parts sploder, man I forget how nice it is to work on my B2 without swaybars, that rear bar was a bitch and the e-brake cable on those sploders is just an abortion. Today I loaded it in my dads ranger and brought it up to the shop and only had time to pull the cover off and remove the crosspin bolt, which is the 4th or 5th 8.8 or 7.5 I've had no trouble with removing the crosspin bolt like everyone seems to have :dunno: Gears should be here soon as well.
Winching it out of shard stain (name bestowed upon my dads ranger by my nice friends). It's a lot heavier than it looks.
http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/2035/88ik3.jpg

It helps if you take the tires and springs off the axle first. :haha:

Looking good man.

[Hahnsb2]

I didn't want to deal with the spring under BS with hand tools so it was easier to pull it off at the springs and leave the tire on it to roll it around, then once I brought it up I busted out the impact wrench :D After I pulled the springs and tires off I could pick the whole thing up, before I could barely budge one end.

[PaleBlue90]

check out the blue torch 8.8 covers. there alot cheaper then the riddler ones.
http://bluetorchfab.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=286
i got this one and welded it up myself for my 90

[Hahnsb2]

Yeah I've seen those and about every aftermarket cover made, I think I've decided the riddle cover is the one for me though :icon_thumby:

[PaleBlue90]

Yeah I've seen those and about every aftermarket cover made, I think I've decided the riddle cover is the one for me though :icon_thumby:

i gotcha, just thought id toss it out there, especially since there so cheap for what they are:headbang:

[Hahnsb2]

Didn't do much today, I did get all the tools I needed, except a damn in/lb beam torque wrench, cant find one anywhere. I did get the pinion races driven in to the housing and got the old pinion bearing off of the pinion. I think I've decided I will change the carrier bearings after all.

[Hahnsb2]

Setting up gears for my first time, both exciting and frustrating at the same time.
Here's what I've come up with so far...
Drive
http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/5263/gear1ys1.jpg
Coast
http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/4766/gear2wv3.jpg

[84projectFORD]

kinda looks like the ring gear needs to be set in closer to the pinion. what is yor backlash on the ring gear?

[Hahnsb2]

Still workin on the 8.8...
I do have something else on the way which should slow things down a bit :D
Too much to do so little time :bawling:

[Hahnsb2]

Damn, should have finished my 8.8 faster... My lock-right finally blew up tonight, I got a bit to clutch dump happy when some slow bitch in front of me took forever to take a turn, it went "BAM, click, click, click". So I pulled in to Fred Meyer (where I was going anyways), came back out, wouldn't even move, pulled the rear driveshaft and drove home on the front axle, that's pretty damn interesting with a locker up there. The lock-right and been popping and banging and slipping for about a month now, the 7.5 was never designed to be behind a 4.0 therefore the lock-right wasn't either, I had been pretty hard on it as far as lighting tires up and so forth. So I'm driving the Taurus right now, I'll pull the cover off and post carnage pics tomorrow.

[240cubes]

:headbang:

[Sunk]

I was wondering what you've been up to... I've done a bit of driving on just the front shaft, like 80 miles home on the highway one night after snowboarding and to school a couple days the next week till I could grab another shaft. That was weird enough, I bet it was real fun with a locker. :icon_twisted:

Did you get that 8.8 done?

[Hahnsb2]

I was wondering what you've been up to... I've done a bit of driving on just the front shaft, like 80 miles home on the highway one night after snowboarding and to school a couple days the next week till I could grab another shaft. That was weird enough, I bet it was real fun with a locker. :icon_twisted:

Did you get that 8.8 done?
Yeah I tried doing only one hub locked, pulled super hard and as soon as I would let off it would shoot into the next lane because of how much I had to compensate, so I stopped and locked both, sharp turns was a bit harder but at least could stay in my lane.
8.8 isn't done, I need to lathe down a piece of the crush sleeve eliminator down .090 at work and I finally ordered the perches, I welded the tubes up, just need to install the gears once I lathe that down and weld the perches home.

[Sunk]

Sweet, sounds good man. I'm on winter break now and totally itching to get at my truck..

[fordwheelinman]

carnage pics?

[Hahnsb2]

Well, as soon as I popped the cover I heard chunks falling into the pan, the cross-pin went chernobyl!!! It's amazing the large chunk did not fly out while I drove 10 miles home, seeing how it was partially out and I was able to remove it by hand. And of course it's supposed to snow this weekend, sweet, no 4wd to drive, **** me.
As promised, pics.
http://img355.imageshack.us/img355/4131/755de3.jpg
What awaited me when I opened the cover, that's a piece of crosspin laying in the housing.
http://img409.imageshack.us/img409/3694/754lv5.jpg
Chunk of crosspin sticking out of it's hole.
http://img265.imageshack.us/img265/9165/753he7.jpg
****ing crosspin bolt without a scratch on it, and most people can't even remove them without breaking them!
http://img386.imageshack.us/img386/7752/752yu8.jpg
Chewed up pinion teeth.
http://img126.imageshack.us/img126/1531/751mm5.jpg
Pieces
This was the lock-right cross-pin to boot! I imagine I would have broken a notched one MUCH sooner!

[04 EDGE]

man that sucks

my loc-rite has been in use for over 3 years. hard use.

still on my stock cross pin.

[Totalled]

Throw a stock pin in and run it... it doesn't have to last long anyway...

[Hahnsb2]

I thought about that but the pins are wasted too...

[97BlackBetty]

I think a pin pack is like $16. Or at least from Aussie, hell I dont know.

[danger88ranger]

Nice job! So when is that 8.8 going to be done?

[Sunk]

I think a pin pack is like $16. Or at least from Aussie, hell I dont know.

Yeah, I think I paid like $22 or something for the pins and springs when I lost the ones that came with my front locker.

[Loanranger]

http://www.ringpinion.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProdID=5392

[Hahnsb2]

Thanks for the help guys but I don't need to drive it right now. I got my crush sleeve eliminator spacer lathed down at work today so I can hopefully do one final set up of the gears.

[rickcdewitt]

I got my crush sleeve eliminator spacer lathed down .:icon_confused: couldn't get preload even with all the shims out?

[Hahnsb2]

Nope, still too thick :icon_confused:

[PaleBlue90]

ouch! that sucks about the locker blowing up, i guess the good side is it didnt happen 100 miles from home and you had tools to take the rear shaft out.

[Hahnsb2]

Yeah, it took me forever to find that damn 12 point 12mm socket in my toolbox, almost gave up.
Anyways I welded the perches up last night, I'll do shock mounts today and do a final install of the gears, hopefully drivable in a week.

[Hahnsb2]

Well I finally rolled it out of the shop last night, still need a rear driveshaft and swap the e brake cables but it's out of the way in the shop now. Need to figure out what I'm going to do for a D-shaft, either shorten the sploder one or get the u-joint flange off of a 90+ ranger, the sploder uses bigger u joints than my driveshaft. I think but I'm not sure my shaft is 1310 joints and the sploder joints are 1330. Maybe just use a conversion joint, I dunno. As you can see I welded the shock mounts up levelish with the tubes so they don't hang down like stock. I pray my gear install is right.
http://img168.imageshack.us/img168/5883/88hr7.jpg

[PaleBlue90]

looks good. i hope ya get everything to get it on the road

[Combs Customs]

http://www.performanceoffroadcenter.com/oscommerce/product_info.php?cPath=37_382&products_id=2533

Flange for the 1310 joint with the bigger explorer bolt pattern.

[Totalled]

91-94 sploders were 1310 joint...rear flange yoke should work fine...

Or, do you have a 1210 joint shaft in your BII?

[Hahnsb2]

I guess mines a 1210 then, I just pulled the flange from a 90+ ranger 7.5 since it used the bigger bolt pattern but the joint was the same as on my driveshaft.

I did just drive it, drives great, the gears are perfect and the initial impressions on the Aussie is that it's smoother than my lock-right.

On a side note I'm picking up a 92 sploder sport 5 speed tomorrow, guy broke an auto hub during the snow and is selling it, other than dent in the passenger door it's pretty clean outside and the inside is about perfect with a tan interior. I test drove it drives good but 3.27s bring the suck :puke: Should be a more comfortable DD and something to drive when I break my B2.

[jaymegriffiths]

why are the wheels like that?(tilted bad)

[Hahnsb2]

why are the wheels like that?(tilted bad)
You mean in my avatar? Because the front end is jacked up...

Well, I need to drop the tranny out and give it a pilot bearing, shifting is becoming next to impossible. At least I've got the sploder to drive now.

[Hahnsb2]

91-94 sploders were 1310 joint...rear flange yoke should work fine...

Or, do you have a 1210 joint shaft in your BII?
Sorry Pat, unless the sploder driveshaft I have isn't original, it's a 1330. I took the correct flange (from a 91 2.3 2wd ranger, which is my dads friend's, that's why I couldn't keep it) down to Six States today, they confirmed it's a 1310. $30 for the flange.
Here's a side by side of my original 1310 small pattern flange next to the 1310 large pattern.
http://i391.photobucket.com/albums/oo356/HahnsB2/flange1.jpg
And here's a comparison of the 1310 flange compared to the sploder flange which I presume is a 1330.
http://i391.photobucket.com/albums/oo356/HahnsB2/flange2.jpg
So now I've got a driveshaft again, assembled with new Spicer 1310 greasable joints. I need to spend some time this weekend fixing everything else that's wrong with it.

[CopyKat]

That small pattern flange is the same as the one on the t-case. The 7.5" and t-case output share the same pattern. The 8.8 pattern is the larger one. I've heard of a dual pattern flange on the axle side, but have yet to see one in real life. Old User by the name Merlin had one on his 8.8 Explorer axle he put in his B2.

[Hahnsb2]

That small pattern flange is the same as the one on the t-case. The 7.5" and t-case output share the same pattern. The 8.8 pattern is the larger one. I've heard of a dual pattern flange on the axle side, but have yet to see one in real life. Old User by the name Merlin had one on his 8.8 Explorer axle he put in his B2.
Correct, BUT somewhere around 90 they converted the 7.5 to the large flange as well (from what I've seen).
The dual pattern flange would be handy, never seen one though.

[Loanranger]

I think you're right, it was 90 when they went to the large flange on the 7.5.

IIRC, both flanges have dual patterns (or options) but they aren't the small and big patterns, I think it's the same pattern for both sets of holes.

[Hahnsb2]

Well I sealed up my windshield finally, those leaks are annoying, my carpet is soaked. I drove it around some today, tranny definitely needs to come out and the pilot bearing/slave needs to be replaced, after 20 minutes of driving it's nearly impossible to get into gear.

[fordxranger]

have you gotten the riddler diff cover yet? id like to see it actually in a truck, i'm tied between getting that cover or a ruff stuff specialties cover for my 8.8.

[ronclark]

I was wounding if you are selling any of the bumpers you are making.



Thanks, already have another person who wants one built for their XJ. Here's a slightly better view of the yota bumper.
http://img296.imageshack.us/img296/9122/yota2iu2.jpg

[Hahnsb2]

have you gotten the riddler diff cover yet? id like to see it actually in a truck, i'm tied between getting that cover or a ruff stuff specialties cover for my 8.8.
Its sitting in the garage, I haven't got a chance to put it on yet...
I was wounding if you are selling any of the bumpers you are making.
Not at this time...

[Hahnsb2]

Well, the BFGs are sold. Don't need them anymore since ol' helga isn't the DD anymore. I also got the Riddler diff cover installed. I'm off all this week since work is real slow so I think I'll get the 4.56 pig swapped in and maybe she might be trail worthy finally.

[Hahnsb2]

Well a couple weeks ago Grunizzle and I swapped my pig so I have 4wd again. And today I modified my t-case shifter finally so it doesn't interfere with the trann shifter when in low range anymore and I also cut and extended the clutch rod 1/4" and the pedal still hits the floor before bottoming out the MC and the clutch works MUCH better.