2008 4cyl 5spd wont return to idle

[RShrimp]

I just picked up a 2008 extended cab XLT with a 4cly and 5 spd. Seems to run great and have plenty of power. (I traded a 93 with over 300K) Couldnt pass up the rebates.
Anyway, one issue right now.
When shifting (when you let off the gas and push in the clutch)the engine just continues to rev for several seconds and then slows down very slowly.
To shift without a jerk you have to hold the clutch for 5 -6 seconds.

Is there a way to disable this feature? In the old days of carbs they used to put a little shock absorber (for lack of a better term) on the carb that made the throttle close slowly.

If the engine wont slow down quicker I am going to have trouble enjoying this truck.
Thanks in advance for your help.

[zilla]

I have an 05 with the same setup too. The only time i've had that problem is when I hit the brake and catch the throttle with my foot.

Seriously though, being an 08 and all, i'd take it and get it checked.

[Engine7]

I have a 2004 Mazda that does the same thing. Been to the dealership about 6 time, going next week for trip number 7. They say this is normal, I use to work for the dealer and talked to a buddy that works there. He said they all do it, and had no good answer for me??? So I know what you mean, I wish mine was like my old Nissan. Good luck, if you find something post it for the rest of us.

[RShrimp]

Thanks, That's exactly what I wanted to know. If they all do it then I wont bother with trying to get a solution from Ford. I guess I may be going to the chip guys and see if they can fix it. I didnt really want to chip this truck (If I wanted more power I would have bought the V-6) but ..........if they can solve this one then it may be worth it.
Thanks again!

[fixizin]

Sounds like a SAFETY issue... I'd threaten LEGAL action. Start a class-action right here on TRS... that ought to light a fire under Ford's lazy ass.

It's ridiculous to need an aftermarket chip on a brand new truck.

PS: When you look under the hood and have someone else operate the pedal, are you sure the throttle linkage is not hanging up?

[2.3slow]

you know there might be something built in to this engine control that does this for a reason. yes i too like to coast down hill with it in neutral because brakes are cheaper than gas. i work at an acura garage we all drive fords(our owner hates it because he owns a chevy franchise) and the parts counter guy has an 05 mustang 4.0 manual trans. i was road testing it for a state safety inspection and that car did it too. i was going down hill in fifth gear and the rpm was about 1500 put into neutral it went up to 2100 or more depending on how fast i was going. i dont know why it does that.


john

[Rammunition360]

yeah ive driven a few cars that do this...but speaking of carbs my 83 ranger does it to haha...of course the carb needs rebuilt but my dodge idles right down when in nuetral...im curious now lol

[Blue Danger]

Hey All,

I just bought an 08 Ranger as well with the 2.3L 5-speed setup. My truck does the exact same thing; I joined TRS to ask you all the same question. Sounds like it is somewhat normal, which sucks because I don't want to bake the clutch or slow-shift everywhere. I had a sports car that shifted quick before this so shifting slow is going to be annoying. I have a theory that they installed a lighter flywheel on the truck to improve throttle response and power with the automatic transmissions, neglecting the 5-speed as a result. It really just feels like they used a flywheel that's too light, not so much an ECU issue, though what do I know. It really does hold the revs though and I am going to badger Ford about the issue. It's not terrible, but damn it's annoying. I've driven Kenworth 18-wheelers that shift faster.

[Blue Danger]

Okay, so I spoke to one of the largest dealers in the area today. They said that the trucks do have heavy flywheels (I had it backwards earlier) so that newbies don't stall the truck, which in turn makes the truck hold its RPMs longer. He said that this is a common complaint with the 2.3L 5-speed and that the issue has gotten better with newer Rangers like mine. He also said that Ford makes or made a lightweight racing flywheel that you can install that will drop the RPMs much faster after engaging the clutch. Also, other aftermarket parts manufacturers were said to make lighter flywheels for Rangers that will alleviate the issue. Honestly, I am not surprised Ford designed it's manual transmission for newbies. Hardly any Americans know what to do with a stick shift these days, it's sad.

Personally, I am not going to mess with my new truck at all until the warranty expires, then I might ditch the seats and replace the flywheel with a lightweight unit to speed up shifting. In the meantime, I'll be shifting like gramps so as to not excessively wear the tranny or the clutch. All in all, I still absolutely love my new Ford Ranger! And when I hit 60,000 miles, I'm going to love it just that much more. I am definitely a proud Ford owner.

[Earl43P]

I'll bet you a donut that if you disconnect the VSS on the rear axle, it'll quit having that high rpm "problem" while rolling. Sure, the ABS light will come on, etc. but it will PROVE that the PCM is propping up the idle during shifts, while rolling, as designed.

Just shift faster.

FWIW, I hardly use the clutch to upshift on either of my trucks. You'll find that sweet rpm spot that lets you pop it smoothly out of gear as you let off the gas, then lightly hold pressure toward the next gear. When the rpms match, it'll snick right into the next gear, gas it and go. I do it all the time. 1st to 2nd can be tricky, but all the rest go like butter.

I think the "dealer" fed you a big line of BS with all that flywheel talk. If he were correct, it would act the same at a dead stop, which I'm certain you can confirm is not the case.

[Blue Danger]

Thanks Earl, but I'm confused about what you mean by "just shift faster." When I shift fast it is jerky and heavy on the clutch. Will the computer recognize my shifting style and adjust like some Euro cars do?

I understand clutchless shifts, I've done it with 18 wheelers for some time now. You just shouldn't have to do that on a new pickup. But, I'll give it a try and see what the RPMs do. Like you said, if they don't float up high after disengaging the gear then the dealer would have gotten it wrong and I should be looking into an ECU reprogramming.

[One Sick Puppy]

I'm not sure I totally understand this high-rpm issue. I'll be getting my 2008 2.3L manual Ranger in a couple days and hope I don't get annoyed with it.

[chevys]

Here is the answer to the hanging rpms.

http://www.rangerpowersports.com/forum/showthread.php?t=229423

Try it and you will like it.

[jax4bangin]

hey guys, after reading all the info in this thread i went to my friends shop and made a restricter plate by tracing the solenoid outline and bolt holes with a sharpy on a thin sheet of aluminum .. it covers the holes of the solenoid only letting it breath through much smaller holes i made wit a drill bit(dont remember the size but start amall u can always go bigger) bolted it back on the truck and it worked bitchen first try!!! i was so pumped, its way smoother to shift and u can shift way faster because the rpm drops much quicker.. it also sounds pretty sick jus revving it cause the rpms dont hang all day.. total time it took to take the solenoid off my truck, figure out wat i needed to do, make the plate and drive down the roar with a grin ear to ear was about 30 minutes!!!!!!!!!!!!! u will be stoked its like a whole different truck. let me know if u need any more info i know that was a lil scattered

[gordo]

I tried restrictor plates with holes ranging from 5/32" to 9/32". The 5/32 thru 7/32" holes caused a "check engine light" after driving a few miles. The 1/4" and 9/32" holes didn't cause a "Check Engine Light"... However, the computer was never ready to do the emissions tests. I didn't go to anything larger than 9/32" because it was hanging RPMs again, with that size hole.

To see if your ECU is ready to run emissions tests, turn the key to the "ON" position and wait about 10 seconds. If the "Check Engine Light" flashes (8) times, the the tests aren't being run. Once I took out any of the restrictors and drove around a little, the "Check Engine Light" stayed lit solid when the ignition was turned to the "ON" position... this means the tests can be run.

I have an OBD II reader, and the "Yellow" LED was always lit with a restrictor plate on the IAC valve, even after you hit a reset. The code was P0500 which is "vehicle speed signal not detected".

If anyone else tries this, let me know how you make out. In a lot of States, your vehicle will fail inspection if the emissions checks are not being run - even if the "Check Engine Light" is not lit with the engine running.

I am back to letting off of the gas a second before pushing in the clutch to shift. That seems to give me the smoothest shifts. It sucks !!

[jax4bangin]

yea i know where ur comin from. i had a plate in with the holes really small and i loved the way it drove.. it dropped revs really quick but it did trip the engine light.. so i kept makin the holes bigger untill it wudnt set off the light and the one i am currently runnin drops revs much faster than stock. not as fast as i wud like but like 20 times better than pushin the clutch in a few seconds after lettin off the gas.. u can actually shift normal

[gordo]

Does your ECU do the emissions check? When you just turn the key, "ON" but not start the engine, and the "Check Engine Light" flashes after about 10 seconds, it ain't doing the tests. It should not flash. If it does, you'll flunk inspections.

I made a "blank gasket" using filter material (actually from a shop-vac filter ... that stuff is so tough you can't rip it - you have to cut it) which seems to work much better than any of my restrictor plates. I put it in between the valve and intake.

I have a whole theory about why the restrictor plates aren't working so good!

[jax4bangin]

o i havnt tried that to see if any codes are thrown.. but my check engine light hasnt been on since a switched up the plates a bit(bout 3 weeks so far) my truck is an 07 maybe the computer system is a lil more strict or 08? but anyways wats ur theory??

[jax4bangin]

whoa hang on a sec.. are u runnin the filter material with holes such as the restricter plate set up.. or .. no holes in the material, jus the material restricts it enough?? if so thats a great idea!! i gotta try somethin like that. is it trippin ur engine light?

.. its funny cause right after i had sent the message sayin my engine light was stayin off the dam thing goes on!! like it knew i was talkin bout it lol..
but yea im pretty bummed, i dont want an engine light showing. i just reset the battery to turn the light off but who knows how long that will last:annoyed:

[jax4bangin]

i jus tried wat u were talkin bout like with the shop vac filter.. i didnt have a filter so i actually used a piece of sham wow lol.. it worked good on the test drive.. after a 10 min drive i took it back out to see how it holds up and it looked kinda tore up already so i dont think it will last.. i need to get some of the material ur talkin bout..

untill then im runnin the restricter plates...
o and i turned the key to "run" bu tdidnt start it, the engine light just stayes on solid and i did it for bout 30 seconds.. what does that mean?

[gordo]

What I used was from a Shop-Vac (Wet -Dry vac). Inside there is the sponge-rubber filter sleeve for Wet-Vac. Then, for Dry-Vac you add a big vacuum cleaner bag and a blue/gray filter-cloth that goes over the sponge rubber sleeve.

I used a piece of that blue/gray filter-cloth. It's designed to let air flow through it and it's tough - you can't tear it. I checked mine and it doesn't show any signs of abuse. I'll bet a piece of vacuum cleaner bag would also work OK.

My CE light has never come on with this in place - however the light will flash if I just turn the key on. If I check it after the truck has warmed-up and been driven around a little it won't. The fact that your light doesn't flash means that the computer has run the emissions checks - which is good.

Have you found that once you disconnect your battery, the back-lights in your radio won't work! You need to turn the dashlight dimmer control all the way down and then back up to "re-teach" it.

Beyond these little things, I really like my Ranger !!

[jax4bangin]

dude thats rad i gotta get some of that stuff.. but idk bout the radio i got a lil alpine aftermarket one that i have to reset everything everytime i pull the ground on the battery.. pain in the ass! lol

[SK33T3R]

I found this page through the use of google and was posting/registering to find out if anyone has found I definite solution to this hanging RPMs problem.
I own a 2008 Ranger 3.0 2WD Automatic Ranger Sport and I've had this high idle issue since a month after I bought it a year and a half ago. Many of you seem to be having the same issue with your rangers but mines the V-6 automatic and it still idles high. The RPMs are higher than normal whenever! When i put it in neutral (moving or stopped) it goes to 1500-2200 Rpms, when its in park it does the same. When I come to a complete stop it in drive it idles at 1200. I use to be able to hit the gas real quick and it seemed to clear out and the Rpms would drop down to 700 like normal. I've taken it to the dealer about 20 times with no exaggeration to get this problem fixed. I'm really regretting purchasing this truck seeing how I've had so many problems with it. heres to list a few:
2 inertia switches (both went out the first 3 days i had it)
AC Compressor Relay switch (less than 10 days after purchase)
Thermostat (month later)
Oil pan gasket (3 months ago)
Rear main Seal (4 months ago)
Alternator (6 months ago)
Fuel rail (which was damaged by a mechanic at Lake Elsinore Ford)
Inside the cab, both of the seat belt button adjusters have broken
Auxiliary connection on dash broke
ABS in rear was locking up
And it currently leaks oil. (coming from the rear main seal again)

And as of this morning my transmission keeps slipping causing the rpms to jump up 300 revs for only a second then goes back down.

Any ideas?

Its a great looking truck but im so sick of all the problems!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v487/thisnot4urizz/Picture037.jpg

[jax4bangin]

i have herd of the 3.0s doin this. its a faulty IAC valve(idle air control) i have herd that the only solution is to replace the valve.. but u shudd check on the v6 threads prolly get more info on ur truck.

[SK33T3R]

ya like i said i just registered and I am completely unfamiliar with this forum. I found this page here from google so i registered and posted on it before scanning the rest of the forum. I'm gna go post up in the 3.0 part. thx and sorry for the confusion.

[jax4bangin]

its all good man good luck wit ur truck