Shouldn't EGR vac solenoid seal against vacuum?


macx

10+ Year Member

Joined
Oct 21, 2011
Messages
94
Points
1,601
Vehicle Year
1993
Transmission
Manual
Been chasing a vacuum leak, vacuum is steady but 2+ pounds low in most situations. Checking anything and everything that has vacuum to/thru it.

Found one - the plastic fitting going into the brake booster had a crack in it.
Was able to suck air thru the crack quite easily when sealing the other end
with my finger, and that's on probly the biggest vacuum line from the engine.

Haven't run it yet to see if it makes any diff on the vacuum gauge.

When I checked the EGR vacuum solenoid I found I was able to suck air
thru it fairly easily from the nipple that hooks to engine vacuum. When I
blow thru that nipple I can hear the solenoid valve inside unseat and I can
blow thru it easily.

Does that valve seal when voltage is applied, or do I have a leaker that needs
to be replaced?

Thx!
 
The EGR valve should be closed with no power applied. BUT, EGR flow at idle will kill the engine pretty easily.

Get your booster hose fixed, then start the engine and put your finger over the line at the EGR valve. If you feel vac, get a new solenoid.
 
Thought of doing that of course AFTER the post. Was so wrapped up with not being able to extract codes.

Got the brake booster fitting fixed - the crack glued shut - helped a little bit.
Still feel like I've got some vacuum leaking somewhere, that's why I thought of
that valve.

I found the nipple on it from the manifold tree was cracked also, glued it, think it's
OK - at least not leaking vacuum.

I'll check it at the EGR and see. Had to watch football this afternoon, was tired of fighting with that thing and needed a break anyway.
 

Sponsored Ad

TRS Events & Gatherings

Featured Rangers

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

TRS Latest Video

Official TRS Merchandise

Follow TRS On Instagram


Product Suggestions

Back
Top