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F my life....


Swiftkid

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Well guys i was going to replace my bearing and axel seals on my 89 Bronco II rear axel because one is leaking. After taking off the diff cover and trying to remove the 5/16 bolt that hold the spider gear pin in...i have failed. The bolt is pretty much seized up, i rounded the corners off and tried getting vice grips on it but even chewed it up more. Even got some special sockets that takes out messed up bolt heads but it chewed it up more. I'm gonna put the the diff cover back on and filler back up for now probaly drive it like that till it goes out. Any preferences on new rear ends that'll go right in after i pull out the old one this summer? What do you guys like for rear ends?
 


bobbywalter

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it is easier to fix and understand than "her"
most areas a working complete replacement rear diff is 100-250 bux.


take it to a shop with a torch and they can likely get it loose for a few bux as well...
 
06RangerXLT

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mmm torch and diff fluid. lovely smell.

you could swap a 92 or earlier axle from a ranger, or find one from a bronco. may have the same problem though.
 
85_Ranger4x4

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06RangerXLT said:
mmm torch and diff fluid. lovely smell.

you could swap a 92 or earlier axle from a ranger, or find one from a bronco. may have the same problem though.
Click to expand...
Rangers have a different width between the spring perches and overall width. A straight Bronco would be very much different.

If you can't get the bolt out you will need one from another BII if you want a bolt in, if you want to get custom anything will work with varying amounts of effort.
 
bobbywalter

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there is a slight difference in perch...never had an issue bolting them in. seen where some say it was...i have never had an issue...have to pry a bit to pop the pins in but the bolts cinch it down fine.:dunno:


problem was diff offset...b2 is more center

the ranger diff can cause exaust clearnace issue in b2


the b2 diff can cause gastank skid rub issue in certain ranger application. then there is the generational overall width and actual yoke/flange variances.

all easily navigated with oem parts.

best bet is b2 for b2 in any event.
 

CraigK

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I'm not familiar with this bolt, but can you not drill it out?

CraigK
 
88_Eddie

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got any of these? i have a craftsman set and they've never let me down

 
adsm08

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CraigK said:
I'm not familiar with this bolt, but can you not drill it out?

CraigK
Click to expand...
It's kind of a pain to drill the Jesus bolt. It sits below the level of the case and so it is really hard to put a drill on it.
 
F150hybred

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Last time I had an issue like this, all I did was get a drift and a BFH. Hit the spider pin with all you got and it will break the bolt. then you can remove the spider pin, axles... and then the carrier to gain access to the bolt.
 
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