D60 and 14b build

[brendank69]

I've been working alot lately on my build, so I thought it was about time to post some pics.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a363/brendank69/DSC00234.jpg

It's a D60 from a 91 F350. I bought the whole truck as a dually for $800, took out the axle and sold it as is for $800. So the 60 was free, and the 14 bolt was $200 at the junkyard. Both have 4.10's. Scored when I found out that both also had recent brake jobs.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a363/brendank69/DSC00236.jpg

If people are wondering why I used a gm axle, it's because of a few reasons. The width was good, bolt pattern matched, and it's stupid strong even in stock form. Not to mention, their dirt cheap and common as a bellybutton.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a363/brendank69/DSC00237.jpg

I relocated the perches on the 14b to match the rear leafs on my '93. That was no problem, but I also found out that I needed to trim the gas tank skidplate a bit a bit because it was very close to the pumpkin. I'll also be adding some 6" skyjacker leafs in addition to the belltech shackles.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a363/brendank69/DSC00233.jpg

For the front, I'm using these brackets from ballistic fabrication. They look real nice, and I'll easily be able to modify one of them to fit on the driver's side beam between the pumpkin and the knuckle. It's pretty tight, but I should be able to make it happen by moving the upper buckets outward on the frame a bit as well. Also waiting for some Cage radius arms to tie the axle in.

I'm still undecided on the coils, but I'd like to get the brackets burned on and the rear installed so I can estimate what the ride height is going to be. The axles are staying fullwidth, and I've got a set of Bushwacker cut-outs to top it all off. Hoping to end up with somewhere around 38's.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a363/brendank69/DSC00239.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a363/brendank69/DSC00240.jpg

Had to sneak a pic of the can-am in there! :icon_cheers:

[BDAB]

you aint kidding about GM axles being cheap, I just picked one up for the Suburban with 4.10's for $75............. looking for either a dodge or a GM Dana 60 with 4.10's.



good luck with your project.

[Cameron]

I have the same front rad arm/coil mounts and I love them!! I think they are awesome!!

Build looks good, ready to see it on wheels.

[Mutant Pony]

The 14 bolt Full floater is far stronger than a 60 rear, even stronger than a 70 in my opinion. The parts are easy to get and cheap.
They are designed after a ford 9" just bigger and with a removeable cover. The pinion has three bearings which is a huge benefit.
It is also the only chevy part I won't get mad at people for using on a Ford.

[JohnnyU]

I'm also using the flat bottom link/coil mounts from Ballistic.


Looks good so far.
:icon_cheers:

[brendank69]

I'm also using the flat bottom link/coil mounts from Ballistic.


Looks good so far.
:icon_cheers:

Yeah, they're sweet. Saved a ton of work. I wish I could have struck a better bead on them though. The mig has been pissing me off lately, but I found today that the ground clamp wire was all messed up. Caused it to weld really erratic and mess up right in the middle of a weld. Oh well, at least I'll be able to weld them on the axle properly. :icon_twisted:

Any suggestions for coils? I've been considering some 5.5" EB springs, but I'm not sure if that will match the rear. At this point I haven't really looked into them much though.

[hairyboxnoogle]

the 4.5 crawler coils from wildhorses will net about 6-7" lift, give or take when stock... or so im told.

[Cameron]

I am using 3 inch TJ coils on mine, but mine is a lot lighter as well. Same 5.5" diameter. I believe they are 180 lb/in

[hairyboxnoogle]

the wildhorses are 200lbs per inch to 375 lbs per inch 10%. Ive heard the flex really well, and they arent too stiff... i bought a set of TJ springs 175lbs.... will flex insane probably, but theyre stupidly soft.

[Will]

That looks like a 3/4-ton 14-bolt, by the way. The one-ton has 3.5" wide rear brakes and the 3/4 has 2.5" wide. That's the only difference. I think a real Detroit Locker (Trac-Teck No-Spin) can be installed without changing the carrier--no gear set-up.

[brendank69]

Didn't even know there was a difference. I plan on doing a disc conversion sometime down the road anyways.

I had some time to lathe the dually hubs down to work as srw hubs this afternoon.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a363/brendank69/DSC00250.jpg

:cool:

[arrabil]

I think a real Detroit Locker (Trac-Teck No-Spin) can be installed without changing the carrier--no gear set-up.
Yeah, ain't that crazy?!

[brendank69]

Got the rest of the 14 bolt together yesterday. New bearings and seals. Also picked up the FR36 skyjacker leafs and had a chance to put them in. I should have time to put the rear in tomorrow and get some pics up. I'm told the cage radius arms are at the border going through customs, so it should only be a few more days before I can start buttoning up the front. :icon_welder:

[JohnnyU]

Oh, you're using Cage radius arms? I thought maybe you were going to use a Link setup similar to what FireZapper (Ed) used on his Explorer.

[brendank69]

Yeah, I considered using some type of link setup but the truck is also my DD and there's really no need to do that at this point. I don't really need the extra benefits of the links over the radius arms. A well designed radius arm setup should work quite well anyways.

I had a hard time justifying spending $725 on a set of radius arms, but if you think about the cost of a high quality rod end x 8 + tubing and brackets, it's not that far off.

[brendank69]

Cage arms finally came in! These things are fricken' huge. They came in at 65lb each with rod ends and fasteners. Some pics...

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a363/brendank69/DSC00257.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a363/brendank69/DSC00258.jpg

Can't wait to get them on! :icon_welder:

[zainyD]]

Updates?

[brendank69]

;21019']Updates?

Well, I went back out to the farm last weekend and got basically nothing done. :huh: I bought some F250 shock mounts and some 5.5" w/ winch EB springs from BC Bronco's. Just a matter of finding time now.

The 14 bolt and skyjacker leafs are in also, but no pics.

[Danger-Ranger96]

lookin good Brendan, i see you went with the cage rad arms, you weren't jokin, those things are ****in sick!

[badblue]

they look just like my james duff one same joint and all

[zainyD]]

That's because they are designed by the same person. The designer left Duff and went to Cage.

[brendank69]

Pulled the transmission this weekend. It died a few months ago just before I pulled the diffs for the swap. Turns out that the output shaft from the trans to the t-case broke. Looks like a pretty normal break, but I thought the stress cracks were kinda unique because I've never seen them before.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a363/brendank69/100_2437.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a363/brendank69/100_2438.jpg

Here's some more of getting the 60 mocked up and set at ride height so I can figure out where to mount the radius arms on the frame. I also spaced the coils out a bit temporarily with a 2x4, just for mock-up. I'll build a spacer to go in there later.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a363/brendank69/100_2442.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a363/brendank69/100_2444.jpg

[wahlstrom1]

Whats your height gonna sit at from spindle center to wheel well? Mine's gonna end up around 27", running 35's first and eventually 37's.

-andrew

[krazybronco]

just something to think about if you are running 38s on a 14 bolt you are going to be draging it everywhere because the diff is so big i would go to 40s or shave the rear alittle

[zainyD]]

...i would go to 40s or shave the rear alittle

I would do both.

[brendank69]

Whats your height gonna sit at from spindle center to wheel well? Mine's gonna end up around 27", running 35's first and eventually 37's.

-andrew


I don't really know, I've never measured it. I'll have to check next time I go to the farm.

As for the 14 bolt, I don't think I'm going to shave it just yet. It's only a few inches larger than the old 8.8, and for what I'll be doing with the truck, it's not that big of a deal. Not to mention, I've already got huge gains by swapping out that mud/snow plow that we know as a ttb.

[Danger-Ranger96]

hey brendan that output shaft picture looks familiar to the way mine looked! HAHAHA

http://photos-552.ll.facebook.com/photos-ll-sf2p/v107/81/22/501784552/n501784552_150061_5912.jpg

[brendank69]

More pics of progress:

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a363/brendank69/100_2467.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a363/brendank69/100_2465.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a363/brendank69/100_2462.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a363/brendank69/100_2461.jpg

[madmax401]

I just got a dana 60 and a 14 bolt and doing what you did. my problem is the dana 60 is a GM with a passenger drop . the other guys are saying i can still use it .....only i have to drill the plug welds and swap the tubes. is it true that the inner c's are the same and won't be a problem. did you shorten you 14 bolt at all or just threw it in there wide? what else do i need to know about this swap?

[brendank69]

Pics of the trac bar and other goodies:

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a363/brendank69/000_0117.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a363/brendank69/000_0116.jpg

The top rod end goes to the engine crossmember, and the bottom is for the trac bar. I used the steering box bolts, the bolts from the engine damper, and I'll also be putting a couple of beads on each side to help distribute the load. It also still needs to be removed, cleaned up, and painted.


http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a363/brendank69/000_0114.jpg

[-ROKTOY-]

Build is looking good! Love those CAGE ARMS...

Now hurry and get it done... :thefinger:

[madmax401]

where did you get your cage and how much did you pay for it ? i was going to go leaf springs and a d44 on my 88. looks simpler with the cage and coils ,so maybe i'll leaf spring it later .

[brendank69]

where did you get your cage and how much did you pay for it ? i was going to go leaf springs and a d44 on my 88. looks simpler with the cage and coils ,so maybe i'll leaf spring it later .

The solid axle swap arms and weld-on brackets were $725. I ordered them through a dealer here in town. You can find a dealer in your area on cage's website, www.cageoffroad.com

The lower coil mounts are from ballistic fabrication, and they were in the $20 range.

[wahlstrom1]

Were you ever able to get that fender to spindle measurement? I'm kinda curious as to the different heights of everyone's trucks, comparing spring heights/applications etc.

-andrew

[brendank69]

Were you ever able to get that fender to spindle measurement? I'm kinda curious as to the different heights of everyone's trucks, comparing spring heights/applications etc.

-andrew

Funny you ask.

I measured it at full droop, but I can't remember what it was.

I haven't had the weight of the truck on the springs yet, but as soon as I do I'll get a measurement. It's going to be higher than I originally expected.

[madmax401]

Is that an R D sittin over there ? the can am is cool but not as cool as my old husky 250 xc was . can ams are cool. ya just dont see them anymore.

[brendank69]

Whats your height gonna sit at from spindle center to wheel well? Mine's gonna end up around 27", running 35's first and eventually 37's.

-andrew

The truck is sitting on it's own weight now, and I had a chance to take a measurement. It looks like it's going to sit at around 31". That's without the bushwacker cutouts.

The front axle is in, and just needs some tweaking in order to be used properly. The BC bronco EB coils fit fairly well in the JD coil buckets, although they are slightly larger in diameter than the RBV coils. I had to grind some material from the buckets in order to get a good fit.

It looks like I'm going to have to re-think the trac bar mount because the pitman arm comes in contact with it before full lock is achieved. The trac bar also hits the engine crossmember, but I can cut it out and make something else work. I also need to turn the inner c's so that I can get the truck aligned.

The new mainshaft is in the M5OD, and it's back in the truck. Definitely a cool job for someone who's never been inside of a standard transmission before. I always enjoy taking apart something when I have no idea of it's inner workings, especially when I come out of the situation with a much better understanding of it.

I'm having some unanticipated problems with what I'm sure is lifter noise. The motor ticks like nothing else. The funny part is that it never did this when it was parked, but it has been sitting for almost 6 months with only very intermittent starts. I've had the same noise in the past, but not as severe and it has never lasted more than a minute. I left the truck idle for almost an hour and there was no change. Any ideas?

[Little X]

Is that an XS-650? I love those things, used to have a '75 myself. GREAT bike!

[brendank69]

Is that an XS-650? I love those things, used to have a '75 myself. GREAT bike!

XS500, I'm pretty sure it's a 75 as well. Under 5000 original miles on that bike. It's fun to drive, but the electrical system is so old and haggard that it's hard to keep the damn thing alive for more than a few days without something else going wrong.

I guess I'll throw in a bit of an update - Everything is in and drive shafts are being made. As soon as money and time permit, I'll be buying kingpin rebuild kits and new inner c's for both sides. I definitely mangled the old c's when i was taking them off. They pissed me off so I went at them with the torch. :)

[zainyD]]

Update pics??

[younggunmarshall]

hey brendan
younggun from s4wda here..
trucks looking great man!

any updates? what did you end up doing with your old lift?
i may possibly be falling into a 89 BII

[brendank69]

hey brendan
younggun from s4wda here..
trucks looking great man!

any updates? what did you end up doing with your old lift?
i may possibly be falling into a 89 BII

I'm just waiting on a set of inner c's and a kingpin kit to come, then I can get the front mostly finished up. I'm also going to measure up some driveshafts this weekend. I bought a set of 4 38.5" Thornbirds w/ 99% tread for $600, so they should get me by until I can buy some real tires. For that price, I can at least use them for the highway driving over the summer, and then recoup most of my costs when I sell them.

The tax return gave the truck fund a nice boost, so I'm hoping it will be done in the next month or so. :D

I sold the old lift to member on this board. What's the scoop on the BII??

[Toreadorranger]

I'm just waiting on a set of inner c's and a kingpin kit to come, then I can get the front mostly finished up. I'm also going to measure up some driveshafts this weekend. I bought a set of 4 38.5" Thornbirds w/ 99% tread for $600, so they should get me by until I can buy some real tires. For that price, I can at least use them for the highway driving over the summer, and then recoup most of my costs when I sell them.

The tax return gave the truck fund a nice boost, so I'm hoping it will be done in the next month or so. :D

I sold the old lift to member on this board. What's the scoop on the BII??

Not to burst your bubble but you get hosed on those tires. You can buy a slightly used set of real swampers for that.

[brendank69]

Not to burst your bubble but you get hosed on those tires. You can buy a slightly used set of real swampers for that.

What you're saying is true for a set of 35's or similiar on a 15" rim. These are 38.5" on a 16" rim. MUCH harder to find. You'd never find a set of swampers for that around here, unless they were 50% or less. Everyone wants to get $100 less than what they paid new, even though what they have is used. I'm not really interested in buying in to that crap.

These will be acceptable tires for the highway, and I'll buy a new set of boggers or swampers for offroad. This way, I won't be wearing them out for no reason.

[younggunmarshall]

th BII is at PBR
"1989 Ford Bronco II
2 door, grey, V6, auto, power steering, power brakes, air, cruise, tilt, power windows, power locks, power seats, cd, 4x4, remote start, 269,478 kms"
hoping it wont go for too much

for pices on swampers
dont forget bout JR designs here in stoon
JR Designs Offroad Division
Bay 3-1707 Saskatchewan Ave

shop (306) 374-5438 thats 374-LIFT
cell (306) 280-5039
fax (306) 244-0683
Hours are 9:00am-5:00pm Mon-Fri 10:00am-6:00pm Sat closed Sunday an Holidays.
e-mail jrdesigns@sasktel.net.
on the web
www.jrdesignsoffroad.com

but enough hi-jack.
what kind of inners did you get? dedenbear knuckles?

[QuakerShaker4242]

hey brendan i have a question for you.

what vehical and year did you get your 14 bolt out of?

and how much did you cost you?

thanks!
-cody

[JohnnyU]

what vehical and year did you get your 14 bolt out of?

All you could ever want to know about the GM Corporate 14 bolt Full Floating Axle: http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/14b_bible/index.html

I've been seeing them sell lately for $50-$300. I got mine for free with 4.10 gears. :D

[bobbywalter]

i been looking for a 14 bolt with 410's and cant find one...:dntknw:


pisses me off to no end....i wonder if eaton has a e locker for them yet.

[bobbywalter]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GMC-14-Bolt-Rear-Axle-8-Lug-4-56-Ratio-with-Locker-New_W0QQitemZ360036059300QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item3 60036059300


new axle with 456 gears and a locker....;missingteeth;


if only fronts were this easy

[wahlstrom1]

14 bolts are cheaper then dirt around here, d60's are almost cheaper to purchase in a vehicle then they are seperate.

-andrew

[brendank69]

hey brendan i have a question for you.

what vehical and year did you get your 14 bolt out of?

and how much did you cost you?

thanks!
-cody

The 14 bolt was $250 at the junkyard, and it was already removed so I have no idea what it's actually from. It's open w/ 4.10's and has damn near new brakes.

[mhughes165]

i had bought a 83 1 ton diesel suburban for $400, had a 60 front and a 14blt ff rear. 4.10's with the factory gov lock. i beat on that thing for a couple months doing offroad recoveries, then sold the set of rear out from under it for 1000 together.....

the 14blt is worth TOPS 400, the front 60's is where the money comes in

[AKBroncoII]

Most of the CUCV military rigs have 4.56's and detroits in the rear. If you can, look for one of them. There are a lot of them running around up here.

[JohnnyU]

...with the factory gov lock...
The open carriers are more desirable than the Gov lock carriers. In a worthwhile wheelin rig, limited slip isn't worth much anyway.

the front 60's is where the money comes in

GM Dana 60's are low pinion, passenger side drop, not real desirable. The Ford-spec 60's were High pinion, driver drop, and the 78/79 vintage had kingpins instead of balljoints.

[Toreadorranger]

The open carriers are more desirable than the Gov lock carriers. In a worthwhile wheelin rig, limited slip isn't worth much anyway.



GM Dana 60's are low pinion, passenger side drop, not real desirable. The Ford-spec 60's were High pinion, driver drop, and the 78/79 vintage had kingpins instead of balljoints.

All ford front 60s from 78-90 or 91 are Kingpin they went to balljoints after either 90 or 91 cant remember which.

[mhughes165]

i know the open carriers are more desireable, however the govlock actually works really well if its in good working order. if u can find a chebbie front d60 for under $500 then u are a god to the guys out here, normally sets like i sold out here sell for like 1200+

The open carriers are more desirable than the Gov lock carriers. In a worthwhile wheelin rig, limited slip isn't worth much anyway.



GM Dana 60's are low pinion, passenger side drop, not real desirable. The Ford-spec 60's were High pinion, driver drop, and the 78/79 vintage had kingpins instead of balljoints.

[JohnnyU]

All ford front 60s from 78-90 or 91 are Kingpin they went to balljoints after either 90 or 91 cant remember which.


The earlier axles also had the narrower spring pad width, making them easier to add link brackets and moving the differential closer to the center of the axle. If I remember correctly, the last year to get a KP axle would have been 91. I think 92 marked the beginning of the Ball Joint axles.

[Toreadorranger]

i know the open carriers are more desireable, however the govlock actually works really well if its in good working order. if u can find a chebbie front d60 for under $500 then u are a god to the guys out here, normally sets like i sold out here sell for like 1200+

Limited slips dont do crap when a tire is off the ground, they only transfer a percentage of power. any percent of 0% is 0. worthless offroad.

[Toreadorranger]

The earlier axles also had the narrower spring pad width, making them easier to add link brackets and moving the differential closer to the center of the axle. If I remember correctly, the last year to get a KP axle would have been 91. I think 92 marked the beginning of the Ball Joint axles.

Yea they are worth more then the 80-91 fronts. I just sold my 79 F350 front for 1000.

[brendank69]

Thought I'd add a bit of an update to the longest fricken' build ever... :nopityA:

Here's a pic of how it sits as of today:
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a363/brendank69/100_2659.jpg
It's 31" to the bottom of the frame rails in the front. It's a bit higher than I would have liked, but the cutout flares still need to be put on so I will lower it after if I have enough room in the wheel wells.

Still to be done:
-Make a proper steering and trac bar setup from DOM
-Put on the 14B disc brake kit
-Finish off shock mounts
-Make a transmission crossmember that ties the radius arm mounts together
-Build exhaust
-Get an alignment
-Put on cutout flares
-Install 5.38's and Detroit rear/Lock-right front

[metalmacguyver]

Sweet!!!

More pics!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Toreadorranger]

now it just needs a real set of tires.

[dburton07]

now it just needs a real set of tires.

X2 lol

that thing looks mean though, i want to do that with mine

[brendank69]

now it just needs a real set of tires.

I know. I didn't buy them intending to use them for anything except mockup, fitment, and possibly a small amount of road use until I have the cash to get a new set of something decent.

[metalmacguyver]

A tire groover could make those tires worth running.........

[Toreadorranger]

A tire groover could make those tires worth running.........

Nah lots of guys have tried it, the tread compound is too hard to get good traction even with liberal grooving.

[ChampiBoy]

Can you post a picture from the front of the truck to see how the tires exceed the truck?

[brendank69]

Can you post a picture from the front of the truck to see how the tires exceed the truck?

Slightly less than half of the width of the tire is out past the fenders. I'll be working on it next weekend so I'll get that pic and more if I have extra time.

[ChampiBoy]

Slightly less than half of the width of the tire is out past the fenders. I'll be working on it next weekend so I'll get that pic and more if I have extra time.

Thanks, I think I'm gonna do the same next summer (D60 and 14B). Do you have offset wheels?

[brendank69]

Thanks, I think I'm gonna do the same next summer (D60 and 14B). Do you have offset wheels?

They're American Racing Outlaw II's. I'm pretty sure they only come in one offset for 16x10.

[dburton07]

sooooooooooooo anything new????

[rangerbum]

Hey, what are you gonna do about that toothpic driveshaft?

[sasdranger]

I've already got huge gains by swapping out that mud/snow plow that we know as a ttb.


i hear ya there, i had IFS and that's worse if you ask me.


Nice truck, i like how its turning out.

[brendank69]

sooooooooooooo anything new????

Sawzall'd the fenders out last weekend, applied POR15, and then put the bushwacker flares overtop. I've got a few tube adapters and some taps on the way from Ballistic Fabrication to finish the steering. It should have been done, but my welder f'd some of them up when he burned them in too hot. The transmission crossmember is about half done and should only take another couple hours.

I know, this build is seriously lacking in the pictures department. :icon_twisted: Every time I go out to the farm (4 hr drive) and work on it, I end up working until I absolutely have to leave due to time. I promise that when I'm out there in a couple weeks I'll take plenty of pics. :icon_thumby:

[brendank69]

Hey, what are you gonna do about that toothpic driveshaft?

Toothpic driveshaft??? Not sure what you're referring to. Both the front and the back are at least stock tube sizes. Definitely sufficient.

[brendank69]

Well, the truck is finished for the most part. I'll be going in for a wheel alignment and a new exhaust system hopefully tomorrow or on tuesday. There are still some random parts that need to be painted(like the steering), and I need to put on the mudflaps in order to be road legal. It's also pretty obvious that I'm going to need to build an antiwrap bar for the back. The wheel hop is BAD, even when I'm not on the throttle much. I like the shackle type antiwrap setup, and I have lots of room for it. Lockers and gears will be put in after I get some miles on the new setup, hopefully by mid January.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a363/brendank69/100_2800.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a363/brendank69/100_2807.jpg


http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a363/brendank69/100_2801.jpg
The steering

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a363/brendank69/100_2802.jpg
Crossmember to stop the nasty frame flex

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a363/brendank69/100_2803.jpg
Finished axle track bar mount and RA setup.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a363/brendank69/100_2804.jpg
Finished frame-side track bar mount and upper coil bucket.

[badblue]

looks good man I like it.

I have going to go with my D44 and 9in till i get my D60 and 10.5 narrowed go to get the truck done before Pigenforg.

[dburton07]

is it just me or is it leaning on the passenger side a little bit?

otherwise looks killer, lose the thornbirds and you'll be golden:headbang:

[brendank69]

is it just me or is it leaning on the passenger side a little bit?

otherwise looks killer, lose the thornbirds and you'll be golden:headbang:

It's just the ground that it's sitting on. When it's on level ground, its actually about an inch low on the driver's side(like every other ranger). :icon_twisted:

The thornbirds won't be around for long.

[sniper_101]

I was following this build for a while before I registered, glad to see it complete. Any plans for an engine upgrade in the future (say 4BT or 351?)?

I'm going to have to see this truck one day.

[brendank69]

I'm on the fence between a 302 and 351W. I don't know, I guess it's whatever is more readily available when it's time for the swap. Won't be for a couple of years, probably.

Where in Sask are you, sniper?

[sniper_101]

I'm on the fence between a 302 and 351W. I don't know, I guess it's whatever is more readily available when it's time for the swap. Won't be for a couple of years, probably.

Where in Sask are you, sniper?

What ever you decide, please keep us updated, a V8 swap is one of the best steps in making a Ranger that much better! (I'm currently about to under-go it myself this spring/summer)

I'm located on farm near Moose Jaw (the Marquis area, North of MJ).

[dburton07]

It's just the ground that it's sitting on. When it's on level ground, its actually about an inch low on the driver's side(like every other ranger). :icon_twisted:

The thornbirds won't be around for long.

Gotcha, sick lookin truck!:icon_thumby:

[machinist]

great build.

how much do you think you have invested.... just curious because i know i spend way to much on mine and mine sits

[Live 2B OffRoad]

could you post up some pics of the trac bar setup? it looks like you have a link running across from the trac bar mount maybe as a brace? any way im interested in some more pictures of it if you got em. thanks

[brendank69]

great build.

how much do you think you have invested.... just curious because i know i spend way to much on mine and mine sits

Do you mean just on the SAS or everything that's been done to the truck since stock? If it's the latter, I don't want to think about it. :D

The SAS is kinda a hard one to add up. There's lots of stuff that's not really part of the SAS, but was done because of it, like the fender flairs. I'd guess just the axles, brackets, gears, lockers, leafs, shocks, coils, radius arms, and other misc parts needed to get the axles under would be in the 4g area.

[brendank69]

could you post up some pics of the trac bar setup? it looks like you have a link running across from the trac bar mount maybe as a brace? any way im interested in some more pictures of it if you got em. thanks

There's a rod end there, but I haven't been happy with any of the mounting locations. I would prefer to go across to the other frame rail for support but the steering box sector shaft and nut are in the way, and below that is too low. If I'd mount it back more, the stupidly large engine crossmember is in the way.

Eventually I may lose the engine crossmember in favor of something a bit more compact, like some thick walled 2x2 or 3x3. Now that the TTB doesn't rely on the crossmember, I don't think it's as necessary as before. The winch mount in the front also helps to tie the frame rails together anyways.

If I have time tomorrow, I can take more pics. Could also pimp my new exhaust setup. :icon_welder:

[Live 2B OffRoad]

pimp it.

and so as of now the extra rod end is not being used? could you just run it to the engine cross member?

and how bout some winch mount pics?

[metalmacguyver]

Lets get some wheeling pics of this beast!!!!!!

[brendank69]

pimp it.

and so as of now the extra rod end is not being used? could you just run it to the engine cross member?

and how bout some winch mount pics?

That's right, its not being used. The crossmember is fairly far back, and the rod ends would be at max angle in order to just barely hit the edge of the crossmember. It just doesn't fit well enough for my liking.


Lets get some wheeling pics of this beast!!!!!!

Just ordered a rear truss from BTF. Should work perfect to add the antiwrap setup to. I don't think I'll be doing any hard wheeling until that's on. Without it, things will break. The axle wraps down in reverse bad enough that I can feel and hear the yokes hit. :eek:

I also found out after the alignment that the rear housing is slightly tweaked. Looks like I'll have to replace it with my spare, which is going to be a bit of a PITA. There's no sense gearing/locking/trussing a housing that's pooched.

[68Mercury250Ranger]

Wow an impessive build. I even like the truck it started out as.:icon_thumby:

I have a 94 explorer that I was planning to put 60/70 in but I'm only running a max tire of 38 12.5s .
I already have the axles ,gears and lockers from my previous fullsize 4 wheeling but wanted to try an explorer.

I will be needing it as a driver to/from work as well, so it won't be as big as yours or as cool:icon_cheers:

I bet those Tbirds won't break as many parts as swamper or boggers:D

any bare ground out there yet? a nice mid winter thaw makes for some fun easy wheeling.

[brendank69]

Wow an impessive build. I even like the truck it started out as.:icon_thumby:

I have a 94 explorer that I was planning to put 60/70 in but I'm only running a max tire of 38 12.5s .
I already have the axles ,gears and lockers from my previous fullsize 4 wheeling but wanted to try an explorer.

I will be needing it as a driver to/from work as well, so it won't be as big as yours or as cool:icon_cheers:

I bet those Tbirds won't break as many parts as swamper or boggers:D

any bare ground out there yet? a nice mid winter thaw makes for some fun easy wheeling.

Thanks. Your right, I probably won't break as much with the turd's than boggers. They're still quite heavy though. Bias ply doesn't help. BTW, this truck is my only vehicle. :D

Got the spare housing in. Going to change up the shock mounts in the rear again, for probably the 3rd time:rolleyes: Mudflaps are almost done as well. They're a pain to design a mount for, because I want them to be study, and not have to rely on the bushwacker flares at all. If I tied them into the flares, it would surely crack them.

Here's a pic of the winch mount, from the bottom. It was a pita to get a better pic of it. This should at least give an idea of what was involved.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a363/brendank69/100_2805.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a363/brendank69/100_2806.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a363/brendank69/Brendans_Truck_2009.jpg

I also canceled plans for the BTF truss. I'm going to build my own, and use their poly bushings to do the anti-wrap.

[wahlstrom1]

Can I ask what the hefty chunk of angle iron is below the front bumper? My guess is thats the 'legal' bumper height?

-andrew

[brendank69]

Can I ask what the hefty chunk of angle iron is below the front bumper? My guess is thats the 'legal' bumper height?

-andrew


For plowing snow http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a363/brendank69/thefinger.gif



lol, I was wondering if anyone would post up about that. Yeah, in Sask., a bumper must be at least original manufacturers track width, no more that 29.5" to the bottom, and have at least a 10cm face vertically. Before I put the shims in to correct the coil spring bow, I was right on 29.5". Since now I'm just over 30", I need something that will meet the above requirements.

In early spring, SGI will be coming out with new lifted vehicle specific regulations that will more closely address some of these issues. I know, because I was involved in the discussions with them over what kinds of modifications should be considered reasonable. This "bumper" was made to meet the current rules, and will be changed when the new laws are released and put into effect. The mudflap that you can see in the back is another thing that needed to be done to meet regulations.

Basically, I didn't want to put a bunch of work to build a new bumper to meet the current laws just to be told a month later that it's no longer legal.

[brendank69]

I had some spare time today, so my brother and I went to his work shop and built a truss that will be the main mounting point for the antiwrap bar. It was certainly nice to have all of the tools that a large metal fabrication shop has lying around.

I also meant to take my camera with me, but i forgot, so you guys are stuck with my shitty camera phone pics. :thefinger:

The truss was built with the basic design of the BTF truss in mind. I really liked the strength of it, the simplicity, and the ease in reproducing it. We were going to do a pinion guard as well, but decided against it.


3-40 tonne cranes, anyone? :icon_twisted:
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a363/brendank69/truss/31-01-09_1414.jpg

First, we cut a piece of 3/8" plate to the proper width. Since we were using free scrap, we had to compromise with what was laying around. It's diamond plate, but whatever. Cutting with the 100 amp Hypertherm plamsa.:icon_hornsup:
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a363/brendank69/truss/31-01-09_1653.jpg

Bending:
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a363/brendank69/truss/31-01-09_1500.jpg

Oops, too far.
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a363/brendank69/truss/31-01-09_1509.jpg

Cleaning up the ends after cutting the piece with the shear:
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a363/brendank69/truss/31-01-09_1546.jpg

Notched for the tube. 1/2 done the main part.
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a363/brendank69/truss/31-01-09_1521.jpg

Figuring out the last 2 bends. New exhaust is still lookin' good!
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a363/brendank69/truss/31-01-09_1551.jpg

Last bend done.
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a363/brendank69/truss/31-01-09_1606.jpg

This shear is an amazing machine. Definitely on my list of machinery/tools that I want to own someday. Who needs a drill press? :icon_twisted:
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a363/brendank69/truss/31-01-09_1806.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a363/brendank69/truss/31-01-09_1716.jpg

Seems to work on the bench. :headbang:
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a363/brendank69/truss/31-01-09_1817.jpg

Works on the axle, too!
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a363/brendank69/truss/31-01-09_1830.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a363/brendank69/truss/31-01-09_1831.jpg


Episode 2, building the antiwrap bar, crossmember and shackle should be coming soon! I've also got a surprise for the disc brakes. I decided not to go with the crappy generic 14B disc brake setup that leaves you with a pathetic parking brake at best. This truck is driven on the street, so I need one, no excuses. Custom brackets should be done getting cut at the end of next week!

[SAS_RANGER]

That is a great looking truck that can go anywhere. I love the d60 and 14b axles and want them under my ranger. Also that is one of the cleanest rangers I've ever seen.

[Evan]

Good call with the h.p. 60 and 14 bt.

Get rid of those Thornbirds!!!!!! That thing is too awesome to run crappy tires.

[brendank69]

So I did my first gear install on the weekend. Finally put the 5.38's in the 14B. All went well. I had a good drive pattern to begin with, but the coast was too far to the toe for me to be comfortable with. After some adjusting, I got it fairly close to centered. Backlash is at .007". Sorry, but no pics. Good thing the Yukon kit came with two crush sleeves, because I crushed the first one too far.

The instructions on setting carrier bearing preload via the adjusting nuts is a bit of a joke. It's certainly very convenient compared to shims, but the instructions were a bit vague in each place I looked. It's definitely nice for setting backlash, though.

I'd like to do the D60 myself as well, but I think I need to do alot more reading before then. This whole case spreader and carrier bearing preload adjustment via shims thing is freaking me out a bit.

[dangeranger01]

Wish I had a D60...... Nice build.

[brendank69]

So I went ahead and did the 5.38's and lockright in the D60 this weekend. It wasn't too bad, but after having that carrier in and out about 20 times without a case spreader, I don't really want to ever do it again. :dunno:

Up on jackstands. (Steering stabilizer is temporary. I had it laying around and wanted to see if it would help with the wandering/tramlining. It didn't -> it must be coming from the bias ply tires. Almost every component in the steering is brand new. Toyo Open Country M/T's are on order, anyways.)
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a363/brendank69/gear%20change/DSC00389.jpg

Diff cover off and steering out of the way:
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a363/brendank69/gear%20change/DSC00390.jpg

Close up of the 4.10's and open diff:
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a363/brendank69/gear%20change/DSC00391.jpg

Calipers off:
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a363/brendank69/gear%20change/DSC00392.jpg

Spindles and shafts out:
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a363/brendank69/gear%20change/DSC00393.jpg

mmmmmm D60:
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a363/brendank69/gear%20change/DSC00394.jpg

Carrier out:
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a363/brendank69/gear%20change/DSC00395.jpg

Almost empty housing:
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a363/brendank69/gear%20change/DSC00396.jpg

New 5.38 ring & lockright installed:
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a363/brendank69/gear%20change/DSC00398.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a363/brendank69/gear%20change/DSC00399.jpg

Drive pattern:
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a363/brendank69/gear%20change/DSC00404.jpg

Coast:
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a363/brendank69/gear%20change/DSC00403.jpg

I'm happy with the drive, but the coast was still not perfect. It was way better than what I started with, though. At that point, I had spent hours adjusting it and just wanted to put the damn thing back together.


:headbang: Testing :headbang:
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a363/brendank69/gear%20change/DSC00405.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a363/brendank69/flex/DSC00432.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a363/brendank69/flex/DSC00441.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a363/brendank69/flex/DSC00444.jpg

[JohnnyU]

Check the preload on your kingpins. If they're too loose, they can cause some wandering/wobble going down the road. Usually it's more like death wobble than wandering though.

What's your toe set at, bringing in in a bit might also help.

[brendank69]

Check the preload on your kingpins. If they're too loose, they can cause some wandering/wobble going down the road. Usually it's more like death wobble than wandering though.

What's your toe set at, bringing in in a bit might also help.

I call it wandering, but I should really use the proper term which is tramlining. It follows the grooves in the road. When I switch lanes, it takes quite and amount of steering to get out of the grooves, and then it jumps out and pushes hard into the lane I'm switching into. Trying to stay in the grooves is difficult at times. It tends to bounce back and forth in the bottom of them.


I've actually went over everything in the steering at least 3 times. I took a very small amount of play out of the steering shaft(where it meets the column and box), checked the meshload on the box(which was good), checked tie rods which are all brand new, and checked the kingpins, which are springless due to the H/S arms. I'm pretty sure that they're tight enough.

It's gotta be in the tires. Inflation pressure seems to make a huge difference, and so does the temperature outside. Lower(~15psi) and warmer is better.

IIRC toe is set to 1/16" in, and caster is ~6.5 degrees.

:dunno:

[Danger-Ranger96]

wow brendan, that thing just looks bad ass!

definately didn't think it would be that good!

whats with the thorn turds? lol

[brendank69]

definately didn't think it would be that good!


Actually, I'm kinda unimpressed with the front flex. It's not maxed out in any of those pics, but it's not too far.

When I picked the coils, I bought ones that I thought would be on the soft side. I'm sitting @ 5500lbs with me and a full tank of gas. IIRC they are supposed to be around 240 lb/in. It looks like I need to get the weights of both front corners and start doing some calculating in order to find some coils that are a bit better.

[Bray D]

I'd say the pinion is still a bit shallow, but you'll be fine. The flares and mudflaps for street legalness eh?

[brendank69]

I'd say the pinion is still a bit shallow, but you'll be fine. The flares and mudflaps for street legalness eh?

It was a little bit better than that with the setup bearings, so I must have gained some distance with fresh bearings. I also dropped from about 6 thou to 8-9 thou backlash after I pressed in all of the new stuff.


Yeah, it's all to be road legal. I tore one of the mudflaps off on a huge rock and the flare cracked too. I'm thinking that I'll make the flaps removable when I have some time. That's how I should have done it in the first place.

[wahlstrom1]

I made mine removable using semi-truck hardware. IIRC when I talked to Skyjacker I was told my coils were in the 300inlb range. Might wanna check for binding somewhere, as I seem to be able to get nearly the same flex and I know my radius arms are binding hard.

-andrew