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1989/90 Ranger 2.3 to 351W by Wolfuss


Wolfuss

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First of all, I lucked into a BUILT 351W today out of a Mustang customization trip - that only has fifty miles on the build.

TOP DOWN! All the way to the drain plug. The price you ain't even gonna b'lieve: $400.oo

Paid for and waiting to pick up - with an intake for a 4Bbl on it already.....


Can you imagine how much time and cash I just saved over what I thought I would have to spend getting the block I have right now machined out, ordering pistons, rings, bearings, chain, gears, HEADS (I didn't have a set handy), and all of that .... STUFF!

I think congratulations are in order - I just saved myself several months. :icon_bounceblue:



There will be new pictures once I bring it home tomorrow or the next day. It looks good, and you won't believe how they wrapped it up...


Here of course is the obligatory "BEFORE" picture



* I just got word there's a running, potentially drivable COURIER a buddy of mine knows of - that's going to become my DD if I can land the deal.
 
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Wolfuss

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A couple more "Before's", including my standing engine farm. Since I have an engine all the way built, these will go into later toys



 

Wolfuss

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FINALLY!!!
My engine is here, so that I can check it out;





You can really tell that it was BUILT from top to bottom, not a shade tree machine at all.

Is that SWEET, or WHAT?

FOUR HUNDRED CLAMS, my brothers and sisters
Did I lose you with that? Look up B.C. and Johnny Hart on Google

(From a pm)

Oh my goodness! (I couldn't stand it anymore, so I went out and really looked at it) The Intake?

It's a painted over aluminum Edelbrock "Performer 351-W" dualplane........

Specifically for that engine.

I bet it's collectable! :shok:

~ $400.oo (!)


Words fail the value I have recieved here to describe it

Lord, let me be worthy of what you have given into my hands.
AMEN
 
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1slow5oh

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Not to take away from your excitement, but $400 for a put together 351w with a spray bombed edelbrock performer(used they sell for about 75 bucks) is about a reasonable price. They look like steel heads and what nots..... Pretty standard in my book. I would at least take off the intake and heads and inspect the internals before I jump for joy.....

But still a fair deal none the less as long as its not fubarded internally....

Good luck with the build I am going through a similar situation right now building a 351w for a ranger....Mine was free tho....
 

Wolfuss

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The intake I'm not a bit concerned about. I WILL have to put on a different pan anyway though - and it's a perfect time to pop a rod and main cap just to check on the babbit material.

If this is like a 302 at all, I expect to have to change the timing cover and water pump to convert over to serpentine belt (*That should give it better coolant flow) because the two pumps spin in opposite directions and the serpentine timing covers had bigger coolant ports.

I doubt the mechanical fuel pump can be retained either - better not to even try if I want to free up space for an external oil filter. I'm thinking run a regulator on the existing fuel system lines.

Since I began digging and organising for this effort out in the garage this morning I've turned up a huge stockpile of brackets, spares for everything, and even a brand new "In the Box" K&N filter (!)

I should know tonight if the trans bolts up, and if I have all the hardware required. I've got about six flyplates out there.

Tomorrow I'll probably be in "Stripola" mode - the whole idea now is to generate lots of indoor workspace.

And I'm also waiting to hear what's going on with a B series that I'm trying to acquire as a DD. It's supposedly a fairly clean little ride...


DETAIL on the intake (POSITIVE ID!)
~from "JEGS"~
Edelbrock #350-2181
Performer 351-W Intake Manifold
SB-Ford 351ci Windsor
4-bbl Square-Bore Carb Flange (non-EGR)
Idle-5500 rpm
50-state legal

$203.99 Ships Today If you find a lower price on a item we will match it

Ford 351ci Windsor V8

Designed for street 351ci Ford Windsor V8s. This intke manifold is a stock replacement/street legal part for 351W V8s with OEM carburetor 1969-72 (1973 non-CA) except stock equipped EGR. Will not fit Boss 351. Aftermarket 4-bbl carburetors are not compatible with Ford Automatic Overdrive Transmission (AOD) unless used with Lokar throttle cable bracket & springs p/n 625-SRK-4000.

Lokar #625-SRK-4000
Throttle Cable Bracket & Springs
Holley 4150/4160, Edelbrock, Carter, Rochester

$25.99 Ships Today If you find a lower price on a item we will match it


Mano - if you find one for 75 clams - you should SNAG it....
 
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Wolfuss

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Today looks like a big one for money changing hands. Advance Adapters will be the first stop - among other reasons because I decided on THESE:


Here below is the "ROUNDUP" phase of the parts gathering.


Spare driveshafts (one had a yoke that fits perfect!), brackets, pulleys, alternators, starter, pan, rear sump pickup tube, A/C compressor, AIR Pump (if I ever need it), and a partridge in a pear tree...

Every last bit of it in varying degrees of filthiness.


The next thing I want to know is if this thing is internally or externally balanced - and if the latter, what the heck flexplate has to go on it.
 
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Wolfuss

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NOTES:

ALL WINDSOR ENGINES
The flywheel/flexplate bolt threads are the same from the very first Windsor to the last one off the assembly line.
The crank Flywheel/Flexplate can only bolt up one way. The bolts are spaced just far enough off to NOT LINE UP WRONG.
(If you have to force a bolt into a hole YOU ARE MESSING UP!)
ALWAYS chase the bolt holes in critical assembly areas with a tap to clean the threads! If it feels cross-threaded IT IS!
NEVER MASH OLD RUST INTO THREADS by insisting when you should have improved things.
When a 351W Flexplate is properly lined up - the counterweight on the flexplate will be opposite the counterweight on the Vibration Damper. (One at the top - one at the bottom. And it is NOT at top dead center....)
Flexplates for these often have a hole in them JUST FOR a DRAIN PLUG on the Torque Convertor. You need to line up that drain plug first - if you don't want to fight with it.
In a situation like this ALWAYS REPLACE ALL THE SEALS! But ESPECIALLY THE ONE ON THE INPUT SHAFT!
(It costs five bucks or so, and if you have to replace it later it WILL suck, believe me...)
 
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ZMan

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you may know this already, but you will need to raise the engine a little bit so the oil pan will clear your pitman arm when you go to install, or a drop pitman arm, but you're probably better off just raising the engine a little. The 351 pan hangs a little lower in the front than a 302. My friend had to do this when he put a 351w in his '88 ranger.
 

Wolfuss

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Hey, thanx for the tip!

I wonder if he had a rear sump pan, or one of the dual sumps that I've noticed? I think Crown Vic pans are dual.

I've got a load of parts coming in this week - by friday I'll have most of what I need. Today I began searching out the paint I want as the main color, tomorow I need to holler at House of Kolor to see if what I picked out (HOK000538) is suitable to use on the engine, tranny, shaft, and rear end. I don't know if I need a special paint for the engine itself because of the heat under the hood.

REFERENCE:
House of Color
~this is a link~

The above is an amazing place to check out different colors, and effects. I got a lot of ideas and info in the few hours I spent there
(*Dial up. Go figure...)

This is roughly what I'm looking at:

Kandy Cobalt Blue

Once that cures I'll see about some gold stripes
 
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